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Born yesterday. Been in the hobby for 36 years.

If you don't take care of it soon, you will be amazed at how fast they spread throughout your tank.

Which one is better is a matter of preferance. The 10K being whiter than the 14K. I like the color of my corals with a bluer light.

Hang in there.

How long have you had them? My bet is stress (LLE, death) will eventually be the end the end result.

nice looking clams

Mandarins tend to starve to death unless they are placed in a well established tank with lots of pods for them to eat.

The problem with a frog fish eating another large fish (by comparison) is that because they move very little, it takes a long time for them to digest their meals. Which means that the prey could start to rot in their stomach and cause them to bloat, which leads to death. In other words, you...

Heat packs are available at most sporting good departments for about $2 for a package of 10.

There's a lot of good ones out there. I have 'The Reef Aquarium' vol 1 & 2 by J.C. Delbeeck and J. Sprung. "Book of Coral Propagation' by Anthony Calfo was interesting. There really hasn't been any huge advancements in keeping corals for several years, so there isn't a lot of new information...

When I lived in Hawaii, I use to collect fish for the aquarium trade. Box fish, especially males were always on the top of the list to collect. However they are so toxic that you couldn't keep more than one in a bucket at a time or you risked killing everything...I found out the hard way. Aside...

Fish only don't require lights. The lighting you provide is for your enjoyment. Just don't be tempted to try corals later with that lighting.

You said new tank, this automatically leads me to think that there might be a water quality problem that might be stressing your eel out. You also didn't mention what you're trying to feed him or what the eel normally eats. I would try some fresh not frozen, shrimp, squid, clams or mussels from...

I think your lights are good enough as long as you change them yearly, for most LPS and soft corals, zoanthids... I wouldn't recommend SPS corals or clams although people have had success under PC lighting. I dose with the 2 part B-Ionic in my 20g using 10ml of A&B daily, well almost every day...

Get your calcium up to 400-450ppm. High levels of calcium help with coral growth and will percipitate (sp) phosphate out ot the water. Also frequent water changes with RO/DI water will help. Some water utilities use phophates to control iron and manganese in the water as part of their treatment...

It's the top of the tank used to house the lighting. Not totally necessarry if you don't care about the asthetics of the tank.

Looking at your picture, right off I would guess that you have a nutrient problem. Until you get that under control I wouldn't try any type of hard corals. Until then leathers, mushrooms and zoos are always cool.

BTA's don't require a great deal of light. I had mine under 2 55watt PC's for years in a 20g without any problems. Now they are under a HQI 150 MH, but I added that for my clams. I have a pair of maroon clowns that hang out in them all day. The only problem that I have ever had with the BTA's is...

Check your calcium levels as well.

I have several tanks. My 240g is acrylic, if I could do it over I would opt for a glass tank. The ease of scratching is always an issue, but the biggest problem or disadvantage, is the bracing on the top limits where you can place equipment and makes working in the aquarium more difficult.