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I'm sure I could get the poplar to at least match the color of the hickory, but after speaking with a friend (whose shop I will be using) I'll probably mill my own trim out of whatever hardwood I go with. That will definitely look the best.

Quote: Originally Posted by Aquiman Here is an idea if you are still trying to figure out a way to attach your door to the frame rather easily. You can turn the top rails on your door frame into a set of beveled cleats that will hang on a mating set of cleats you can put on your frame...

Right now I'm just going to be using the stock T8 bulbs, and no. There isn't a big box store where I live, unfortunately. I don't have time right now to drive to one.

Thanks for the tip. I'll probably either go with hickory or poplar (depending on the price of hickory).

That it is! I can get poplar for $11 a stick. I'm going to shop around a little more at a couple local mills and see what they have. Might be able to get a good deal. Need some softwood first anyway.

Nice stand! Hey acrylic, you used poplar on your stand for the big tank, right?

Ah, I understand now. If the red corners go the green would stay (or vise versa). Thanks. I'm not doing oak. What I really want is hickory or maple, but I need to shop around to see if I can find a good price .

Cost wise it would probably be better to go with a replacement frame. Thanks chances14. And ideas why it broke in the first place?

That's the pH of the DI water? If that's the pH of your mixed saltwater, that's way too low. You want to be around 8.3. Argonite sand looks nice and is a natural substrate, but I don't think crushed coral is bad. Someone please correct me on this if I am incorrect.

mjshealy, are you familiar with the nitrogen cycle? As you probably know, as food rots ammonia (NH3) is formed. As the NH3 becomes available it is consumer by bacteria, which release nitrite (NO2). Different bacteria consume the NO2 and release nitrate (NO3). This is why we cycle new tanks, to...

Yeah, I'll look into both products in a little more detail before I use them. Thanks though.

Quote: Originally Posted by acrylic51 I like tje stand design and looks pretty similar to thestand thread over on RC. Your deisgn is perfect IMHO. The only thing I don't think is needed is the red upright 2x4's. The design is structurally sound. As far as a removable front panel that is also...

How does the eurobrace work?

I'm pretty sure my design would support a 55. The top horizontal frame is 2x6, and there are four 2x6s and four 2x4s supporting that. That's a pretty solid structure. You really think just exterior paint will protect the wood enough? That doesn't really seem like enough of a barrier for me. I...

I didn't even look at the date of the original post. Oh well.

Any luck? I'm looking to replace the frame on my 55 (center brace broke), so I'm curious as to how you're making out.

When I was making up the frame design I made sure the area between the bottom 2x4s was wide enough for the 20 gallon. Thanks though. Are there any real advantages to just going with plywood? I'm going to coat the whole thing in solid hardwood anyway, so I guess I'd prefer to build as little...

Frame: With hardwood: With tanks: With front panel: Back of front panel: So, anything you see that looks completely wrong? And do you think it will support a 55 gallon tank? Thanks!

Hello everyone. I'm in the planning stages of building a stand for my 55 gallon tank, so I figured I'd get a thread started. It's a standard 48"x13" 55 gallon, and I'm going to be putting a 20 gallon long underneath it as a sump. The stand will have a softwood frame, with a solid hardwood "skin"...

Hello everyone. A while back the center brace on my 55 G broke. As a result the lass bowed out probably by about 0.75", prompting me to quickly empty the tank. It's been sitting around for a while, and I'm finally getting around to fixing it. So, does anyone have any helpful hints on replacing...