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yeah nice idea, but a dangerous one for sure. that tank will end up busting, it's just a matter of time. The corners HAVE to make full contact over the middle, and support, that is where the load and stress of the tank is.

Originally Posted by raf it has been in QT since yesterday with copper treatment. ICH got better but red spots got worse. thats whats happens when treating with copper, infections tend to get worse. Sounds like this fish needs some maracyn two for saltwater fish, with hypo salinity treatment.

if it were me, i would add him, then get a nice lionfish and grouper combo.

i would drop that salinity down to 12ppt day one. Fish can handle a rapid drop quite easy, it's the rise you need to be slow on. I have actually dropped the salinity down in 8 hrs time, but after some research found alot aquariums etc match PH and temp and go from seawater to hypo with zero...

I am happy to report, hypo finished fish back in DT and ich is destroyed. I lost one fish (royal gramma) but that was due to a purple dotty beatin him down. blue tang, yellow tang, Kole tang, clown pair, 5 chromis, watchman goby and a B cardinal all good and lovin the 125. i kept my 30 gallon...

hard to tell, but i see some spots that do look like marine ich.

i found that hypo in the DT is a mistake. it will kill ally our worms and pods, creating havoc on water quality. what worked best for me is a bare bottom QT tank with HOB filters. even if new just do water changes until you get the ammonia under control.

Hyposalinity Pros: 1. Less stressful and longer lasting than freshwater dipping. 2. More effective than freshwater dipping outside the aquaria, since OST kills the free swimming parasites as they emerge from dormant cysts/spores within the aquaria/system as well as those attached to the fish...

When new acquisitions arrive at the quarantine facility, the main acclimation concerns are pH, temperature, and detoxifying the free ammonia. The acclimation process brings the salinity of the newly arrived fish down gradually although this is not the determining factor in introduction of the...

wow glad i didnt listen to people and pulled my mandy out of my DT.

Originally Posted by deejeff442 dont copper a puffer it will kill him.puffers cannot take copper.one inch total depth of sand ,sounds like you have 2-3 inches.if you have foam piece in the dt sump that will work great in new qt.you need to get a qt running pretty fast once the ich drops off...

Originally Posted by Chrisnif Engine, yes he starts scratching/flashing at about 5 pm daily, i could set a clock by it. Reef, THANK YOU, I've had about 20 people say "im not sure" because it keeps coming and going every single day. One guy in my reef club did say the peppermint shrimp could be...

Originally Posted by sfaloha My salinity is at the lower side of 1.009 ;). Good news is that I bought a K1 black friday deal at my LFS and marlin came out of hiding. Looks like marlin is eating 1 or 2 pellets so that looks to be good. As far as heni he's eating still and swimming around despite...

that is ich.

Originally Posted by sfaloha Ack my current readings are HIGH! I've only been checking pH and ammonia. I kinda had a feeling it would be high which is why I use Amquel+ every 24 hours. I better start doing 50% water changes every other day. QT is a 30 gallon. pH 8.4 Nitrite 1.0 Ammonia .25...

it doesnt matter what salt you use, with hypo the salinity is so low it will not buffer and stay. the best course of action i have found is using arm and hammer baking soda baked in the oven on 350 for 30 minutes and used as a PH up. check your PH 2-3 x a day and buffer when needed.

Originally Posted by Xcali1985 I know it comes in black actually no it doesn't "black ich" is not ich at all it's a flat worm which is completely different than cryptocaryon. people just call it black ich because the blood that is left behind looks like black spots.

post a picture. if its not sugar or salt sized spots i would doubt its ich. but hard to know without seeing it.

i dont drip mine, i should but i dont. i basically use a teaspoon, and measure half of it to a pitcher of water and add it in over an hr or so. i am running two QT tanks though. a 56 gallon and a 30. my fish really dont seem to mind the ph getting lower around 7.8-7.9 thats about as low as it...

read the stickies, and see if it matches up with the pictures.