415 Gallon Plywood Tank Build

acrylic51

Active Member
cont......
Both thermal circuit breakers and OFCIs are required to prevent fire ignition from excess current.
High line-voltage creates excess power and heat in utilization devices such as heaters, light bulbs, appliances, motors, and electronics. In extreme cases, this heat can ignite fires. One extreme source of high line voltage occurs from a neutral path opening within a two-leg 120 V residential electrical system. When a neutral wire breaks or opens, the utilization voltage can almost double to over 200 V with large leg-to-leg load imbalances. This extreme situation can result in almost four times the power and heat in loads. With such overheating, some loads can reach self-ignition temperature in less than 10 minutes. Power fault circuit interrupters (PFCIs) are designed to prevent fires caused by excess voltage across loads. Voltage-trip circuit breakers detect excess line voltages, but are unable to detect sub-circuit open neutral conditions.
Low line voltage can cause electro-mechanical relays (on-off switches) to repeatedly turn off (relay opens) and on (relay closes again). If current is flowing through the load contacts, it will cause arcing across the contacts when they open. The arcing can oxidize, pit and melt the contacts. This process can increase the contact resistance, superheat the relay and lead to fires. Power fault circuit interrupters are designed to prevent fires from low voltage across loads.
[edit] Interference with power line networking
AFCIs may interfere with the operation of some power line communication technologies.
 

stdreb27

Active Member
cool! I"ll have to look into those for running my pumps in the future. I don't think it is going to like anything on a switch...
 

scsinet

Active Member
In any recommendation I'd give, it would be to use GFCIs.
AFCI breakers are a whole new thing, and although they offer an elevated level of protection, a fish tank does not comprise an electrical hazard that an AFCI would address.
The GFCI is a far more appropriate device.
Personally, I'd use GFCI receptacles. They are functionally identical to breakers, but are much less expensive. That's all I use on my tanks, and yes, I have them on every single tank I have.
One thing I noticed in the power pictures... are the receptacles you are using rated for 20 amps? The "cheap" ones you find at most home improvement megamarts are often not.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Yeah they are 20 amp.....that's one place I won't skimp....plus my brother in laws are electricians, so I'd get my hands slapped....I thought we had a discussion a ways back about the AFCI's? Honestly I never use GFCI on any of my tanks.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
SCSInet, what would the advantage be or any advantage of going back to the box ad using a GFCI breaker in the box as opposed to separate GFCI outlets?
 

scsinet

Active Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
http:///forum/post/3271765
SCSInet, what would the advantage be or any advantage of going back to the box ad using a GFCI breaker in the box as opposed to separate GFCI outlets?
The only advantage I can think of is that if the first outlet in your run (where the GFI receptacle would need to be) is in a difficult to reach location, a breaker would avoid you having to get to the outlet to push a reset button.
Apart from that, there are no advantages IMO. Disadvantages? Numerous:
-GFI breakers are very expensive.
-They require a tie to the neutral bus bar, which clutters the panel ******** (I'm anal about that)
-They make a 3 wire run (two opposing leg circuits sharing a neutral via a 3 wire cable) impossible because you can't share neutrals downstream of GFIs.
-Your only choice is protecting an entire circuit, where with receptacles you can wire them in numerous ways.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
A few updates to the progress......it has been slow.....I did alittle more work on the skin for the front of the stand.......got everything routed out and initial sanding, still have alittle more detail work to do........I have in my mind an idea to use on the corners of the stand???? You always see the traditional woodwork, trimmed, squared corners, but I'm thinking of doing something out of the ordinary making my corners rounded?
The endcaps or ends are going to be built out not just the standard flat look, but looking for something alittle more stunning......I've also got the urge to try my hand at bending wood and making a curve door.....
.
Here's a couple pics of the progress on the front skin for the stand.



 

acrylic51

Active Member
Here are a couple shots of the doors I've been working on and fabbing up between working on drywall in the fishroom. On the front of the stand will be 4 doors....The first 2 pics are of just the door frames themselves, and the 2nd 2 pics are of the door inserts I'm working on.



 

acrylic51

Active Member
Here is a quick shot of what the door looks like with the frame and insert together.....Anyone have any good ideas to dress the doors up a bit?

 

acrylic51

Active Member
To build the front skin I used the Kreg pocket hole jig.....I absolutely love this tool, and I'd recommend it to anyone that is building a stand or any project around house to purchase it.....
1st pic is of the pocket holes and the next couple of pics are of the framing I used to give the skin a tight snug fit to the stand itself. I might use a couple pins in certain places to make sure it stays secure, but right now the fit is all but perfect.



 

acrylic51

Active Member
Last bit of work update. I had stated earlier in the thread that one of my main objectives was to have the top of the tank open and unobstructed with the lights. I've seen countless tanks incorporate moveable light racks and just love the look and the convenience it offers for so many reasons... The lighting on the tan will be LED. I had originally planned for MH, but LED I feel is the way to go. Alot of people that have done the moveable light racks have used the kits by Stanley. They are very nice kits, but they weren't stock items here at either my Lowes or HD and I hate ordering and waiting on parts.
With that said I have a good supply locally of metal and went out and purchased "U" "C" channel and decided that I could cut my own slots into the channel to allow the roller to move the canopy. It probably would have been easier to buy the parts, but I wanted to have a little fun as well. I started off cutting with a cut off wheel, but got alittle lazy and decided I could do it alittle easier. I don't recommend this and I know I shouldn't have done it, but "Hard Heads make a soft A$$" as my old man always told me.....
I put a metal cut off wheel on the table saw and set the fence up and started my cuts. Actually it wasn't really that bad, but if you tried to rush or push through it, it did want to grab and take you for a ride.
I still have the intention to make the light rack motorized at some point since I have the motor and such laying around, but when I have more time to play with it I will. Here's a few pics of the tracks under construction....



 

acrylic51

Active Member
Here is the door rollers I found at Lowe's that would fit the job perfectly, so I bought them!!!! The reasoning behind covering the aluminum track in wood, is that I felt the track needed alittle more support to handle the lighting and I really don't care to see exposed metal.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Drywall work is coming along.....hopefully with the long weekend coming up I can get quite a bit done....Had a little accident with the RO/DI unit....Did you ever have those thoughts when you know you shouldn't do something, but you do it anyways???
Here was my RO/DI before.
 

handbanana

Member
Acrylic, This is awesome!
That sump is frickin sweet! Very nicely built!
This is going to be incredible, cant wait to read more. This is probabally the thing I look forward the most in having my own house!
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Yeah.... Tell my wife.... She just loves the sound of the power tools roaring and drywall dus
^& h
Hopefully with the long weekend I can make some headway on finishing the drywall and other odds and ends.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
No the canisters didn't actually fail.... Me moving it and I dropped it from about 5' up. Didn't fare to well, but looks like Custom Aquatics will be getting a call.
 
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