Yea I know I know. But then I am not the only one reporting not doing water changes.
A very good example if my 55g you'all love to make fun of. Lets see calcium down to 250-300ppm. :notsure: what to do. O lets do water changes. replacement water is 450ppm start at 300 change 10%
so 90% 300 (270) and 10%450 (45) should have about 330 or so. eventually after several weeks you wind up bouncing around 360-380. Yep that helps.
But what did I do? Well the system needs more calcium hopefully calcium carbonate. Hmmmmmm kinda like CC. but Crushed oyster shells are cheaper and probably have other trace elements like mag also. hmmmmmm just use those as the filter media. so add that to the filter box. calcium rises to 300-350 or so. Hmmmm replace the powerhead with a mag 5 pump. calcium raised to 400ppm and stays there for three weeks. Sounds like a lot better solution. And a good example of how water changes would have masked the real problem of not having sufficient calcium buffering in the system.
Water changes in our tanks are recommended for one and only one reason. they are easy. They are not the solution. Large saltwater aquariums miles from the ocean do not have that luxury. Yet they are highly successful. I simply can not believe that they with say a 3 million gallon tank dumps 300,000g of saltwater into the local creak. And according to a post here a denver aquarium uses tap water for all their saltwater tanks including their reefs. But the same aquarium uses ro/di water for delicate south american fish from pristine streams.
the solution is allowing the system to stabilize and insuring that the stability is at the correct level. the only way to do that is to not change the water, then fix anything not entirely correct.
So from my experience, I use tap water, get the plant life established as the first thing, setup some buffering for trace elements, and keep the plants thriving. And the only water maintenance I have to do is replace the water that evaporates.