Brand Spanking New - 29g build

beaslbob

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clink51 http:///t/396255/brand-spanking-new#post_3530446
So beaslbob, you're saying its okay to top off with Water from the tap but not do major water changes? sounds fair enough

So to my next question. I have my Tom RP output breaking water tension. where should i aim my powerhead and do i need another power head

Yep just untreated tap water. From a commonly used cold faucet that has been ran for 30 seconds or so. To flush out water in the pipes and reduce things like copper being added.

What's a "Tom RP"?

As long as powerheads provide some circulation you should be fine.

sometimes tank do develop a surface scum. But that usually lessons as the tank matures.

Actually the molly I use to cycle the tank likes to eat that scum. Kinda like surface vacume machines. LOL.


my .02
 

bang guy

Moderator
I just want to mention that not all tap water is created equally. An RO filter purchase should be near the top of any saltwater purchase list in my opinion.
 

clink51

Member
Quote:
If you're just topping off water that has been evaporated from the tank, you want to use freshwater. Salt don't evaporate, and it can raise your SG levels if you keep adding saltwater
I did not know this LOL Thanks alot Fatty
 

clink51

Member
Now that i have everything ordered and waiting for everything to come through, im going to need to start figuring out the cycling.

Question: Can i cycle the tank with the live rock in? or should i wait for the cycle to complete to put the live sand and live rock in?
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clink51 http:///t/396255/brand-spanking-new/20#post_3530571
Now that i have everything ordered and waiting for everything to come through, im going to need to start figuring out the cycling.

Question: Can i cycle the tank with the live rock in? or should i wait for the cycle to complete to put the live sand and live rock in?

Hi,

Congratulations...That first SW tank, what a joy!

Absolutely, the live sand and live rock will help the cycle. Toss in a piece of raw shrimp and watch the ammonia, once you see the spike up to at least 1...I remove the shrimp piece, then every other day I check to see when it goes to 0. Then I test only for nitrites, once that goes to 0, I test the nitrates, if it's over 20, I do a water change. Then for 1 week I ghost feed flakes to an invisible fish, and at the end of the week I do all three tests again...If Ammonia and nitrites are still a beautiful 0, I do another water change. The tank is ready for it's first critter.

I strongly suggest you get a quarantine tank all set up and cycled at the same time, that way not only will it keep the display clear of parasites and disease, it will help you regulate how fast and how many fish you add a once. Too much too soon is the biggest mistake beginners make. Add only 1 critter every 3 weeks.

(Little note)
API test kits will read off on nitrates, at first it may all look fine but for some reason it will start reading off the charts high on nitrates... You may (and I suggest you do) purchase a separate nitrate kit...Instant Ocean, Salifert or Seachem.
 

clink51

Member
HURAAYYYYYYY... sooo ThePetPlace did an awesome job. Ordered my stuff, next day received confirmation it was being shipped, and received it the next day after that... wow! also Customer Service was very helpful. Okay enough of that... I RECEIVED MY STUFF!!

After Drinking alot and watching the JETS somehow beat the Buccs ( i didnt expect it, and im a fan) i got to work on the tank.

Emptied it out and painted the back Navy Blue 2 coats, then the lower half i did the 3rd coat in Black.
Haven't purchased my Live Rock yet, but i had a lot of Lace Rock from my old Cichlid tank, so i put roughly 10 pounds in as a base layer
Placed 30 pounds of sand into the tank also
Used the scoop thing thank came with the salt and did 4 scoops (didnt want to over do it)...salt is still to low and i need to put more in today.
Filled her up with dechlorinated water (i dont have the funds to purchase an RO filter system any time soon)


Here is what she looks like so far. Just received confirmation that my new light is shipping (should arrive this week), so what you see is just the stock light that came with the tank.

Question of the day - is a glass top okay to use or do i need to keep the tank open?


I'll post more pictures as soon as it clears up a bit more


thought of the day: i thought pink sand would be more pink...
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Looks like everything is coming along for you.

I personally would not do or buy anything else for the tank until you find the funds to buy an RO/DI unit or find a place in your local area that sells completely pure water. Your tap water might contain heavy metals like lead and copper and other chemicals such as florine which will over time build up in your tank and cause all kinds of problems. If your planning on adding any kind of corals to your tank, which I assume you are because you bought reef salt, I would highly recommend to start using RO/DI water - or AT THE VERY LEAST get a water test log from your local water company to see what is "allowed" to be in your local water supply. I would also have someone run a TDS test on your tap water to see where it stands. Currently, my TDS out of my tap runs at 500ppm. I would like for it to be 2ppm or less... but that is never gonna happen.

My last tank failed because I had let my RO/DI unit TDS get too high before I realized I had a problem. Algae started to grow and the corals started not doing well and bleaching out before I realized there were more than likely heavy metals and chloramines leaking into the top off water.

Basically, from my experience - it all starts with water quality, and one of the absolute most important keys to success in this hobby is having a good foundation - which is using pure water for water changes and top offs.

I'll keep an eye on your tank as things progress.
 

beaslbob

Well-Known Member
don't forget the macro algae.

Oh yea and just a little bitty nit. no need to dechlorinate the water. 1) you won't have fish for awhile and 2) most salt mixes have dechlors in them.

Congrates and looks like it is coming along.
 

clink51

Member
Thanks Snake, would you be able to recommend any units that are "cheap"? i dont know what the proper GPH would be either. Im looking for Ro since RO/DI is not "safe for human consumption"

Thanks Beas, i wont, i'm already looking for a mini refuge DIY ideas to build. probably going to do a specimen container, do drill a mess load of holes and having it that way
 

bang guy

Moderator
Ro/DI is perfectly safe to drink. It makes fantastic ice cubes. Admittedly, it doesn't taste right.

Also, it's easy to 'T' off the RO feed to the DI if you want to use only RO for drinking. This is what most people do.

Personally, I have the DI split to also feed the ice maker and the Ro split to also fill a pressure tank for drinking water.
 

clink51

Member
Updates:
Last night i finally got around to installing the Heater (Aqeon ProHeater 150w). Moved the Powerhead to the back of the tank so that its blasting the front glass and redirecting there. Readjusted the filters output so that its not creating a devastating wave. Also, I finally purchased some filter media (Marineland Rite-Size). I a sheet of this into the filter (first tray) and put a thin sheet into the skimmer. Needless to say, the difference was seen almost immediately.

After putting in the filtermedia into the filter


HOW MUCH BLEEPING SALT DO I NEED?!?! (i have put in 8 scoops)



This morning. No live rock as of yet just lace rock, will put in sometimes this week or next then begin cycle ( honestly, im in no rush)



Question of the day: The instructions say 1.4lbs of salt per 5gallons. Does anyone know, of the top of their heads, how many pounds each scoop (using the supplied scooper) is?


Thought of the day: i wish the sand was a bit more pink.... and i think the backround should have been black instead of navy blue...
 

bang guy

Moderator
Did they say how big the scoop is? You need about 1/2 cup per gallon.
Did you put your live reef sand in fresh water?
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Technically, you're supposed to add the salt to the water in a ratio of 1/2 cup per gallon, depending on the brand. And you're also never supposed to mix it inside the tank... ever. Especially after you have added anything living to the tank.

I think you might need to slow down for the time being and read a few good books and some online guides before proceeding.
 

clink51

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/396255/brand-spanking-new/20#post_3530727
Technically, you're supposed to add the salt to the water in a ratio of 1/2 cup per gallon, depending on the brand. And you're also never supposed to mix it inside the tank... ever. Especially after you have added anything living to the tank.

Nothing Living is inside the tank... absolutely nothing, Thats the only reason why i put it directly into the tank. Ive learned that Salt burns on fish are an awful experience when i dealt with my Cichlids.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bang Guy
http:///t/396255/brand-spanking-new/20#post_3530725
Did you put your live reef sand in fresh water?
Yessir, i did
 

bang guy

Moderator
I was just wondering why you would spend extra (a lot) for aragalive and then kill the bacteria with fresh water.
 

clink51

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bang Guy http:///t/396255/brand-spanking-new/20#post_3530738
I was just wondering why you would spend extra (a lot) for aragalive and then kill the bacteria with fresh water.


I understand what your saying, but i thought that by leaving the water out for 36+ hours while running a powerhead and using Novaqua Plus to remove access chlorine and chloramine, it would be "safe" to use.
 

bang guy

Moderator
It's not chlorine that killed the bacteria, it's putting marine bacteria in water with a low salinity.

It is possible that the bacterial cysts in the bagged wet sand don't open in fresh water but I think they do. A Marine Biologist may know what happens in that case.

The short answer is that most marine organisms perish in fresh water. Not all, but most.
 
Top