Brand Spanking New - 29g build

clink51

clink51

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///t/396255/brand-spanking-new/40#post_3531166
I never heard of "pre-cooked" frozen brine shrimp.
I meant as in just regular frozen Shrimp. I've read cycle posts stating to dump one shrimp into the tank for cycle. I was just wondering if putting a pre cooked shrimp, like the ones you find in the frozen section of a supermarket, are okay to use.
 
bang guy

bang guy

Moderator
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clink51 http:///t/396255/brand-spanking-new/60#post_3531169
I meant as in just regular frozen Shrimp. I've read cycle posts stating to dump one shrimp into the tank for cycle. I was just wondering if putting a pre cooked shrimp, like the ones you find in the frozen section of a supermarket, are okay to use.


That would be fine.

I'm not a big fan of the shrimp method if you have good live rock in the tank but it will work.
 
bang guy

bang guy

Moderator
It raises ammonia too quickly and too high for the health of the more delicate organisms in the live rock.
 
clink51

clink51

Member
What do you guys think of the rock work?

How about the heater?, should i place it to the left of the powerhead so that the warm water is being "moved"

Feedback please people lol.
 
tthemadd1

tthemadd1

Active Member
I think for your tank size it won't matter where the ph is directed. All the water will move evenly through the tank.
 
clink51

clink51

Member
AND the cycle is officially underway. I ghost fed 2 days ago with pellets and last night i dropped a cube of frozen cichlid food into the tank with a net around it so that it doesn't go all over the place.

Salt 1.021
Temp: 80
PH: 8.4
Ammonia 0.50ppm (+.25)
Nitrite:0ppm
Nitrate: 0ppm

I do a 20% water change when Ammonia dips back down to 0 right?
 
clink51

clink51

Member
Update:

Came home tonight and found that my ammonia test from this morning turned a darker green then it had in the 10 minutes i had left it out after the test. Tested it again when i got home, and found Ammonia at 4ppm and Nitrates and 5.0 ppm... is this a good thing or a bad thing? water change in my horizon? ideas please!
 
clink51

clink51

Member
Tested ammonia today and it was at 2.0ppm. Used a different, less older test, could that have been it? either way, im gearing up for a 5g WC tonight
 
flower

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clink51 http:///t/396255/brand-spanking-new/60#post_3531360
Tested ammonia today and it was at 2.0ppm. Used a different, less older test, could that have been it? either way, I'm gearing up for a 5g WC tonight

Don't do any water changes when you are cycling the tank unless you have used a live fish. It slows down the cycle process. Just let it ride itself out and cycle. Once ammonia and nitrites drop to 0, then check your nitrates...if it's over 10 (and it should be) do a WC then. Then WAIT one more week and ghost feed flake food to the tank during that time...if after 1 week the ammonia and nitrite are still 0, your tank is completely cycled. Do another WC to get rid of the nitrates.

Now is the time to start a little 10g or 20g quarantine tank, to allow it to cycle. Not only will it protect the display from parasites and disease, it will help you regulate how fast you add your new critters when it is time to stock the display. Keep each fish in quarantine for at least 3 weeks, 4 is better (if you notice health issues, treat in a quarantine, NEVER the display).

A quarantine is easy to set up and pretty cheap...no substrate, keep the bottom bare, a dark towel under the tank or paint the outside bottom black. Use a little HOB penguin type filter, a piece of PVC pipe or little plastic decorator piece, to allow the new fish to hide and feel secure, and an air line attached to the hide away piece (to hold the air line down to the bottom of the tank) to move the surface water, and aerate the tank.

Tip: Macroalgae will help keep the parameters stable in the tiny tank. (remove it if disease or parasites are found, and treat the fish with nothing in the tank but the decorator piece/PVC pipe to hold the air line).
 
bang guy

bang guy

Moderator
As I stated in my link, in my experience maintaining an Ammonia level between 0.25ppm and 0.5ppm is a happy medium where delicate live rock organisms can survive and does not slow down the cycle process. Large water changes during the cycle when ammonia levels get high are the best way to accomplish this in my opinion.
 
flower

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bang Guy http:///t/396255/brand-spanking-new/60#post_3531370
As I stated in my link, in my experience maintaining an Ammonia level between 0.25ppm and 0.5ppm is a happy medium where delicate live rock organisms can survive and does not slow down the cycle process. Large water changes during the cycle when ammonia levels get high are the best way to accomplish this in my opinion.

I learned something new...I hadn't considered the rock critters.
 
clink51

clink51

Member
UPDATE:

Starting to get pink on my Live Rock. this is good right??!?!?

Did a 5 gallon swap from my 29g with pre-mixed salt water. Ammonie dropped to around 1ppm, Im just waiting for it to drop all the way to 0 before my next water change.

Thought of the Day: As a straight man with a girlfriend, the pink is actually very nice in my tank
 
tthemadd1

tthemadd1

Active Member
Thumbs up.
Pink purple green and blue.
What you want to stay away from is slimy maroon andor green. Coraline algae is like lichen on trees. Very healthy and a positive sign.
 
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