Brand Spanking New - 29g build

clink51

Member


Live and learn i guess.... No one said i wasnt gonna make mistakes on my first ever tank... at least i havent put in live rock, so their is a bright side to this whole thing. Thanks Bang Guy for the information.

For tank cleanings, i plan to use RO/DI water from my LFS whos selling it to me for .10 cents (rather then the .85 he normally charges) but for top offs, is it okay to use the Novaqua approach or in the case of an emergency?
 

bang guy

Moderator
For an emergency, sure that's fine. $0.10 is an excellent price for RO water but...

I really would recommend getting your own RO filter. It makes excellent drinking water as well.

At minimum, you should get a TDS meter so you will know the purity of the water you are using, even if it's from your LFS.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
+1 on the TDS meter. One LFS in my area was selling RO water with 100+ TDS and when I told him about it he was not concerned at all. So always check.
 

clink51

Member
thanks guys. Next Paycheck, i'll make sure i pick one of these up!


UPDATE: just received my new light: Coralife t5 Dual Lamp =) will post pictures tomorrow
 

clink51

Member
Pictures for the Update:
Before with the stock light


After: One 18 Watt 10K and one 18 Watt True Actinic T5 fluorescent



thought of the day: i really should have painted the back black
 

geridoc

Well-Known Member
You asked a while ago about covering the tank. My view is that carbon dioxide exchange is so important in marine tanks that you should not cover the tank, and you should aim your powerheads to maximize surface turbulence. If you are concerned about fish "carpet surfing", you could cover the tank with egg crate, which can be bought inexpensively at Home Depot, for example. It is in the lighting section, and is an open plastic grid that you can easily cut to size. They actually sell it as a diffuser for fluorescent lighting.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Hi,

Don't stress over the background, it will all be covered in snail eggs and coralline algae very soon. Hiding the wires and pipes is the goal and it looks much better then it would without a background. That being said, you need more rock, lots more rock. Also the rock will need to be on the bottom of the tank, you can't build on shifting sand...it will crush critters and could break the tank. Build your rocks 1/2 way up the tank with one or two caves for the fish to swim through. Push the sand to the side, add more rock, and push the sand back around the rocks when you are done with your aqua rock scape.
 

clink51

Member
Thanks Flower. Thats only about 6-7 pounds of Lace rock. Im putting in about 10-15 lace rock total and another 10-15 of live rock. that rock there is just to see how it looked. And yes, the rocks are built on the glass with the sand surrounding it
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clink51 http:///t/396255/brand-spanking-new/40#post_3530809
Thanks Flower. Thats only about 6-7 pounds of Lace rock. Im putting in about 10-15 lace rock total and another 10-15 of live rock. that rock there is just to see how it looked. And yes, the rocks are built on the glass with the sand surrounding it


I use a combo of décor (not fake plants) and rock for both of my tanks. The 56g I used columns and branch live rock. On the 90g I used a ships wheel, anchor and Fiji live rock.

Lace rock is beautiful, and old coral skeletons are as well, it will all be live rock in no time. I have a black background, and the snail eggs look a little like tiny stars in the sky...but the coralline algae looks like blotches and out of place. LOL, I wish I had used the blue background.

The new light does make it look better. I'm sorry you went with Coralife, I hope you got a good one out of the hundreds of bad ones. LOL...Sometimes I think Coralife saved all the bad equipment to sell to me.
 

clink51

Member
LOL thanks Flower. So far so good. shes been on for 3 days (10 hours) just to break it in. Do you think that with this light i would be able to keep low light corals or an anemone? or does the anemone really require 5w/gallon?
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Hi,

I don't recall the size of your tank.

No anemone...unless your tank is large enough for a long tentacle tube anemone, they are nocturnal and don't need light, and drop dead beautiful, but they get big. The one I had gave off it's own light in the dark, it was a bright as moonlights for lighting up the tank at night, really cool. As with all anemones, they roam and get sucked up in the intake tubes and power heads, so everything has to be covered, and anything stupid enough to get too close will either be eaten or stung to death. I had my beautiful fish eater for 4 years before it got so large no fish could escape it's grasp. I had a 90g tank and a 4 inch sandbed...it liked the rocks, books said it liked deep sand.
 

clink51

Member
i have a 29g regular tank... if it got to big for a 90g, there is no way in hell i can have one with my current lighting..owell, from what ive been reading clowns don't need them to survive so im okay with that resolution =)
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
You're right, clowns don't need anemones to do well. Anemones need very stable water parameters and stable tanks and lots of food and light to survive. I'm glad you made the right decision.
Though, the suggestion for a nice bright tube anemone would be fun. They don't require light, just frequent meaty feedings. They are very cool to watch and even more fun to feed. A tube anemone is actually one of the reasons I got into the hobby all those years ago. :D
Good luck and I hope it all works out for you.
 

clink51

Member
update: Last night i tried doing the fuge mod with an HOB filter... failed miserably, to much flow. sanded down the impeller a bit, that didnt work either, keeps gettign dogged... i did it with a old filter i had lying around... will try again some other time =(


thought of the day: have a great weekend all =)
 

clink51

Member
I'm at a conference and i got massivly bored....So i went onto ************** and started pricing out how my 75 Gallon dream tank with all the bells and whistles will cost me... Short answer, $2,131.01.... At least i get free shipping LOL... what do you think of my dream tank??


BRS 5 STAGE RO/DI SYSTEM - 75GPD
80 lbs BRS FIJI DRY AQUARIUM LIVE ROCK
AQUAHUB DIY TOP-IT-OFF KIT PREMIUM
HMO-200 FINNEX HEATER
4 FT FIJI SUN 4 X 54W HO T5 SYSTEM
REEFKEEPER LITE PLUS - DIGITAL AQUATICS
REEF OCTOPUS NWB110 4” PINWHEEL IN SUMP PROTEIN SKIMMER
2 HYDOR KORALIA EVOLUTION 1150GPH

AQUEON PROFLEX SUMP FILTRATION SYSTEM MODEL 2

AQUARIUM OVERFLOW 1200 GPH OVERFLOW BOX

MAG-DRIVE SUPREME 12 PUMP - 1200GPH

REFRACTOMETER FOR READING SALINITY WITH CALIBRATION FLUID

60 LB. FIJI PINK ARAG-ALIVE! REEF SAND
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Eh, You might have preferences for some of those things, but I would suggest looking into:

Typhoon III RO/DI system with twin DI kit, TDS meter, two extra stages for sediment and water softner. I'd also invest the extra $50 for a little computer that tells you when filters need to be changed.

A Tunze Osmolator is perhaps the best ATO on the market, and I would consider JBJ next to the best,... but if you want a fully automated system you can use the break out box on an Apex controller.

Neptune Systems Apex controllers are high end controllers that are worth the extra money and fuctionality. They offer a lot more versitility, with easy programming language and easy plug and play type controls. Best bang for your buck, and MANY modules that you can buy for it that controls different functions

Reef octopus is a great brand of skimmer - but I would look into the new POV line skimmers. They don't have a housing, so they are more efficient with less wattage.

Koralia is an ok brand of powerhead. They get the job done, but if you want the versitility of a variable speed pump to replicate the natural back and forth ocean currents, an Ecotech Vortech MP40 should definitely be on the list. Flow is very important in a reef tank.

I can't speak for proflex sumps, I used to have one, but it was the smallest one they had - a 16g. I didn't like the way I couldn't customize anything. IT was tight and compact and it only had one chamber. I'd much rather custom build or have something custom built (once you get some experience under your belt... ) Have it to where you can easily mount your probes in the sump, and all of your drip lines from any auto dosers or calcium reactors.

A Mag Drive 12 pump is a huge pump for a 75g tank. You don't really want that much water going through your sump at a time. You will want something slower - in the 750gph to the 950gph range. A Mag 9.5 will do well and I do recommend that pump still, but recently I have used Quiet One pumps and I am very satisfied. Quiet One also uses about half the electricity of a mag drive and has more forward pressure - which is great. I use a Quiet One model 4000 on my 75g with a 20g sump. Works like a charm.

You should already have a calibrated refractometer. Get one ASAP. :D

I'd also look into building a side cabinet for the tank, or have a custom cabinet and stand built for the tank. The cabinet would contain a three or four ten gallon tanks. One for mixing saltwater and pumping it into the tank. Another for a 10g fuge that is separate from the sump. Another is for your RO Unit to hook up to a float valve so that your ATO system constantly has a fresh supply of RO water. The fourth would just be to add extra water volume - set it up as either a Really Deep Sand Bed for nitrate->nitrogen gas conversion or you can do a separate tank for a mantis or something cool.

I'd also look into putting a large container in the garage - one of those cylindrical plastic containers - so that you can always have at least 55g of water ready to go at a moments notice. You can put a pump on it to not only mix saltwater but also push it to the display tank through a python hose. Two containers would be cool, so you could mix saltwater in one and have freshwater in the other in case of human emergencies (break in the water supply, tornado, hurricane, drought, etc.etc.)


Now add all that up on a list and you might be close to a dream tank. Of course, a 75g is not really that big. You would want to go a little bigger eventually. A 180g is plenty big, but plenty small enough not to be overwhelmed.
 

clink51

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by tthemadd1 http:///t/396255/brand-spanking-new/40#post_3531092
Addicted much? LOL.
What was your first clue? LOL

Snake, the dream tank is quite a ways away. it will be a while before this even comes into fruition. For now im going to stay with my 29 "nano-salt" and learn all that i can before the HUGE investment of what will probably turn out to be a 3k job.
 

clink51

Member
And now for my Update: went and purchased 10lbs of cured Live Rock. Added that in with a 6lb piece of Texas Holey and about 8-9 lbs of Lace Rock both from my Cichlid tank that is being deconstructed. Started my Cycle officially last night after my first readings (see below). Using frozen Brine Shrimp to seed, hopefully this works well. Would there be a problem if i used the "pre-cooked" frozen shrimp variety?

Salt 1.021
Temp: 80
PH: 8.4
Ammonia 0.25ppm
Nitrite:0ppm
Nitrate: 0ppm



As always, comments suggestions or general praise
are all very very welcomed lol

Thought of the day: Why must Cured Live Rock be so expensive?!? next time around im going with base rock and seeding it myself!
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Hi,

Anything that will rot will spike ammonia, and kick start the first cycle. I never heard of "pre-cooked" frozen brine shrimp. If it's fish food, it's not pre-cooked, it's pre-packaged into feeding doses. The only thing I would have against ghost feeding frozen foods is the phosphates found in them. I think flake food works best for ghost feeding, and it's cheaper. (it has phosphates as well, but I don't think it has as much)
 
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