Coral Beauty - has ICH!!!!!!

slice

slice

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al&Burke http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/80#post_3353722
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slice http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/80#post_3353685
So, how are things going? How well are you able to maintain 1.019?
You scared me Joe, hypo is 1.009 - I had to go back and check, that was just a test right. Came home just now we are at 1.010 so just a bit more RO water and 3 weeks of hypo. Thanks for asking Joe, How is your light you were working on?
Um yeah, sorry...1.009 (D'oh)
I got my replacement light last Friday, it is a much better built one with heavier duty components, thanks.
Glad everything in the hospital is doing good.
 
al&burke

al&burke

Active Member
Just an update almost three weeks into hypo all the fish except the CB are looking good. I noticed some spots today on the CB - I kind of disappointed this far into it. I guess I will have to go another three weeks after his spots are gone. Any suggestions out there.
On another note there is a pair of Banggai Cardinals, the male appears to have a mouth full of eggs - he is not eating - I have watched him he wants to but his mouth looks full, jaw is lowered, looks healthy overall. How do you think the fry will do at this salinity level. I would raise them if they got big enough. I have an empty 25 gallon should I put them in there, or just let them go through the treatment. Maybe after the treatment is done I will set up a 39 gallon, just for these two guys.
Thanks for looking.
 
monsinour

monsinour

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al&Burke http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/100#post_3359746
On another note there is a pair of Banggai Cardinals, the male appears to have a mouth full of eggs - he is not eating - I have watched him he wants to but his mouth looks full, jaw is lowered, looks healthy overall. How do you think the fry will do at this salinity level. I would raise them if they got big enough. I have an empty 25 gallon should I put them in there, or just let them go through the treatment. Maybe after the treatment is done I will set up a 39 gallon, just for these two guys.
Thanks for looking.
If you dont feed the fry, they wont live. If you have a spare tank, why not set it up and move them now? I would continue the Hypo in the new tank, but atleast this way you can feed the fry and atleast attempt to raise them.
 
al&burke

al&burke

Active Member
Thats what i think I will do Monsi - I would really like to raise the fry have been always intrueged by this.
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Al, bring your temp up to 83-84 degrees slowly over the next couple of days. Within a week you should see no more visible signs. Continue that way for a few more weeks with the elevated temp and low salinity. I think this is why it didn't work for me the first time. The second time I raised the temp past 83 any visible trace of ich was gone within the first week.
 
al&burke

al&burke

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/100#post_3359784
Al, bring your temp up to 83-84 degrees slowly over the next couple of days. Within a week you should see no more visible signs. Continue that way for a few more weeks with the elevated temp and low salinity. I think this is why it didn't work for me the first time. The second time I raised the temp past 83 any visible trace of ich was gone within the first week.
Thanks brother - I appreciate your feed back, how is your move coming along?
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al&Burke http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/100#post_3359806
Thanks brother - I appreciate your feed back, how is your move coming along?
No prob. The parasites can't survive in temps above 82-83 so that's why I say go 83-84. It's a one, two punch combo with the low salinity. They'll drop in no time.
The move went really good today. Both sets of movers showed up on time and we got everything over here by 3:00p.m. today. Still have to go back tommorow to transfere the 50G tank over here and do a little cleaning. But everything else wen't good. My stand and canopy for the 120G arrived in one piece with no dents or major scratches, so that's a pluss. Now the job of unpacking begins. But the hard part is over at least.
 
al&burke

al&burke

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/100#post_3359811
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al&Burke http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/100#post_3359806
Thanks brother - I appreciate your feed back, how is your move coming along?
No prob. The parasites can't survive in temps above 82-83 so that's why I say go 83-84. It's a one, two punch combo with the low salinity. They'll drop in no time.
The move went really good today. Both sets of movers showed up on time and we got everything over here by 3:00p.m. today. Still have to go back tommorow to transfere the 50G tank over here and do a little cleaning. But everything else wen't good. My stand and canopy for the 120G arrived in one piece with no dents or major scratches, so that's a pluss. Now the job of unpacking begins. But the hard part is over at least.
Good stuff Corey - glad everything went well - Hey I ordered that Eheim 5000 pump today - they also had 1" gate valve - got 4 of those for my reef upgrade. Have a good night
 
tangs rule

tangs rule

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/100#post_3359811
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al&Burke http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/100#post_3359806
Thanks brother - I appreciate your feed back, how is your move coming along?
No prob. The parasites can't survive in temps above 82-83 so that's why I say go 83-84. It's a one, two punch combo with the low salinity. They'll drop in no time.
The move went really good today. Both sets of movers showed up on time and we got everything over here by 3:00p.m. today. Still have to go back tommorow to transfere the 50G tank over here and do a little cleaning. But everything else wen't good. My stand and canopy for the 120G arrived in one piece with no dents or major scratches, so that's a pluss. Now the job of unpacking begins. But the hard part is over at least.
Is this from your experience or research? I'd like to know how certain that you are that by raising the temp you are actually killing off parasites, and not just accelerating their life cycle - which IS temperature sensitive. I was un-aware that water temp higher than 83 would kill marine ich in ANY stage of it's life cycle.
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by tangs rule http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/100#post_3359895
Is this from your experience or research? I'd like to know how certain that you are that by raising the temp you are actually killing off parasites, and not just accelerating their life cycle - which IS temperature sensitive. I was un-aware that water temp higher than 83 would kill marine ich in ANY stage of it's life cycle.
It's from personal experience. If you accelerate the cycle in combination with the slow salinity you are creating an environment that in non condusive for them to live in. I've tried it both ways. The first time was done with the temperature kept at 78-80 and did the best I could to keep the salinity at 1.008-1.010 and I ran into the same issue that Al is having right now. The Ich never went away. I did not want to try copper since it was my first and only issue with Ich at the time so I was a little leary of using it.
The second time I picked up a tang and brought it home it was the same thing. Broke out with Ich. So I spoke with 3 different sources around town and both told me to raise the temperature. So that's what I did. Within the first week there were no visible signs of it on the fish so I kept it that way for 6 weeks. Now it's 8 monthes later and I haven't seen any sign of it's return. My tang is doing great. Swimms and eats like a champ.
I do not claim to be an expert in this area, I'm just relaying my exp.
 
florida joe

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Sorry to hear this Al any way PEOPLE where did you hear that if you keep your tank in the 80s you will kill the ick parasite????
This is just NOT TRUE we are not talking about fresh water ick which can be treated with high temps and the addition of aquarium salt.
Why we raise the temp in our treatment tank when we have an ick infestation is to speed up the live cycle and thus expose the ick to treatment when it is vulnerable more quickly
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
So it's not the temperature but the combination of raising the temp that speeded up the cycle in conjuction with the low salinity environment. Appologies, Al if I was mistaken. I was merely pointing out that once I did that the parasites dropped rather quickly in a matter of a few days. And the one, two punch as I stated earlier I believe is why it worked so well on my second try and not the first.
 
al&burke

al&burke

Active Member
Thanks guys - so just to make sure i should increase the temperature in my HT. I really appreciate your input, thanks again and no problem Corey I respect your opinion and i know you wouldn't say to do something if it wasn't right.
 
deejeff442

deejeff442

Active Member
as quills said he kept the salinity at 1.008-1.010 now at 1.010 all the ich needs is a very small window to reproduce.at this salinity it is possible for it to happen.i have done the same thing and didnt check the salinity daily and the salinity raised to 1.010-1.011 and the ich came back.very important to keep it at 1.008-1.009.
never did the temp raising but i know if just for a day the salinity rises the ich can reproduce.
still i think it is easier to keep salinity levels constant than it is to keep copper levels constant because anything in a tank including the silicone can absorb copper and reduce the level.
 
florida joe

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Cory it was a combination of the two, the higher temp will speed up the life cycle and allow for a quicker exposure in the free swimming stage for copper to be effective or the reproduction stage where hypo is effective BUT one needs to remember there also is a down side to higher temp, the higher temperature also raises the metabolic rate of the fish causing it to need increased oxygen and it needs to expend more energy which can be detrimental to an already stressed fish
Al if you are going to up the temp in your HT i would add an air stone
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by florida joe http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/100#post_3359974
Cory it was a combination of the two, the higher temp will speed up the life cycle and allow for a quicker exposure in the free swimming stage for copper to be effective or the reproduction stage where hypo is effective BUT one needs to remember there also is a down side to higher temp, the higher temperature also raises the metabolic rate of the fish causing it to need increased oxygen and it needs to expend more energy which can be detrimental to an already stressed fish
Al if you are going to up the temp in your HT i would add an air stone
Makes sense, Joe. I actually did keep a bubble wand in the tank to help keep the oxygen levels up since I wasn't running a skimmer on the qt tank. Tangs are swimmers anyway and he was always very active...still is. I'm actually setting up the qt tank today from the big move over to the new new house and put all fish in there for the mean time for observation just to be safe.
 
al&burke

al&burke

Active Member
Guys thanks again - this is all really good info, I don't know what I would do without a forum like this.
 
tangs rule

tangs rule

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by florida joe http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/100#post_3359974
Cory it was a combination of the two, the higher temp will speed up the life cycle and allow for a quicker exposure in the free swimming stage for copper to be effective or the reproduction stage where hypo is effective BUT one needs to remember there also is a down side to higher temp, the higher temperature also raises the metabolic rate of the fish causing it to need increased oxygen and it needs to expend more energy which can be detrimental to an already stressed fish
Al if you are going to up the temp in your HT i would add an air stone
+1
Additionally, a higher water temp ALSO reduces available oxygen for the fish, as cooler water will absorb more O2 than warmer water, which will hold less dissolved O2....so warmer water makes it more difficult for them to breath......There are also some claims that adding copper/formalin will further reduce the ammount of O2 the water will hold (though I have never researched this to prove/disprove --yet)
- so surley add an airstone if going above 82f temps cause there are several known reasons to add extra oxygen just to make it easier on them..
 
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