Dear Diary...

perfectdark

Active Member
I found out the 2 names of the products I use for my corals and inverts.
1 is Kent PhytoPlex, Phytoplankton, the other is Kent ChromaMax Expert Series Phytoplankton. Both are Plankton but different size particulates.
If your intersted I can tell you more the proceedure isnt hard you just need to be really carful if you use the expert series both with dosing and method of extraction from the bottle to your tank.
My anenomie eats formula 1 frozen too, but likes the larger plankton when I feed the others.
 

adairable

Member
Originally Posted by Bonebrake
I'm trying to remember what all you got from me... None of them require feeding, but the trumpet corals will definitely grow faster if they are fed also get your calcium up to 400-450 ppm and alkalinity up to 2.5-4.0 meq/L they require that to grow. They will generally stick their tentacles out at night so feed them like 15-30 minutes after the lights go off with the turkey baster 1-3 times a week. If you see the tentacles out during the day you can feed them then too, but that is kind of a rare occurrence. The green hairy shrooms will eat, but they are very slow eaters, and that giant green mushroom eats too, it is a little faster eater. I think that is pretty much it, if I forgot a coral let me know.
Oh yeah, the ricordea will eat, but they are difficult to feed too, unless you shut the water flow off for 10-15 minutes until they can get a good grip on it, but I wouldn't go to all of that hassle. I have only ever fed mine successfully two or three times in the year and a half I have had them and they grow relatively fast. All of the corals I mentioned will eat anything fish do: flake food, pellets, frozen foods, etc.
:joy:
If you find out they opened before I do call me and let me know and I will do the same.


I will let you know and then you can phone the other guy frompcom and so on and so forth down the nerds for saltwater stuff tree
 

adairable

Member
Originally Posted by PerfectDark
I found out the 2 names of the products I use for my corals and inverts.
1 is Kent PhytoPlex, Phytoplankton, the other is Kent ChromaMax Expert Series Phytoplankton. Both are Plankton but different size particulates.
If your intersted I can tell you more the proceedure isnt hard you just need to be really carful if you use the expert series both with dosing and method of extraction from the bottle to your tank.
My anenomie eats formula 1 frozen too, but likes the larger plankton when I feed the others.
Yea, I would love to have feeding details...THANKS DUDE!
 

adairable

Member
Originally Posted by Bonebrake
R.I.P. Rowdy Roddy Piper.

10-20 ppm nitrates isn't anything to be concerned about, but you don't want them to get any higher. They should gradually come down with regular water changes. I would not add another fish for six weeks so that the ich can die out. You can add shrimp and other invertebrates if you'd like too in the meantime.

Ok so I think the clown got the ich from the electric blue hermit or the water he was in from the crappy LFS....and yesterday I find tank dead....out of his shell
My tank is a death trap :help:
 

adairable

Member
Originally Posted by Charred Salad
I bet you are!

don't go pointing fingers....I bet you are pretty nerdy yourself!
 

adairable

Member
Originally Posted by spanko
Well, I see you list you alk at normal but it would help to know what that is also. Your calcium should adjust with your water changes if you are using a good salt. However as we add more corals and other things that use calcuim we find the supplementation is necessary. I use (1) Seachem Calcium and (2) Seachem Alkalinity buffer in my dosing. Using a two part allows you to adjust each or both depending on your need. There are other two parts such as ESV B-Ionic, Kent, etc.
What is a good type of salt? I think I have reef crystals or something like that
 

adairable

Member
Originally Posted by PerfectDark
Yea.....NO... There are somethings I will do.....But I wont do that!
ohh come on everyone has to have a pimped out ride. Mines a chevette with 24's on them......hydraulics, and lots o bling. (did I just say bling)

There is one place here in particular that is a very very upscale FS. If I can get some pics if it I will. Im sure they are not the most upscale there is, and their volume of fish isnt fantasic. But their corals are the best I have ever seen as far as healthy and variety. And thier tanks are the cleanest i have ever seen. Any fish they get in there goes to quarrantine for 3 days for observation before they put them in the show tanks. Down side to all that is they are a tad pricey. But thats the place that employ's 2 actual marine biologists.
Along with this site they have been my wingmen on helping my tank stay healthy and even cured my Cyano outbreak (well not an outbreak but the start of it).
BTW I feed my corals Phytoplankton, there are 2 different types and I forget the names Ill see if I can look it up. But it goes by the actual size of the plankton in PPM. Some corals can take a bigger organism than others. I dose them directly with a "sea squirt" and what ever they dont get goes to the tank. I also shut my filters off for a few minutes so the food stays around them.

and speaking of pimped out rides....my '93 subaru loyale stick with hail damage beats your chevette anyday!!! Bring it!
 

spanko

Active Member
Houston we have a problem.
Okay Adorable :thinking:
Are there any fish left in your tank?
If not what is you coral and invert list?
You did not add the LFS water to you tank when placing your buys in did you?
Are you relatively sure that the clown died from ICH?
When did it die?
Have there been fish in the tank since heshe died?
 

perfectdark

Active Member
Ok 1st here is what I am told, over dosing with phytoplankton is worse than feeding your fish 3 times the norm for three days straight, especially if its with the expert series formula.
Here is what I do, there is a set amount I feed all my inverts, its your choice you can either take that amount and dose the tank once a week or spread it out like every 3 days. That amount depends on how many corals and anenomies or any other inverts that feed on plankton. With all that I have in my tank my dosage is a half a capful of the Phytoplex once a week, and the dosage I am going to explain to you of the chromax.
The proceedure I use to get the product to the tank is easy but critical. For the Phytoplex I measure out 1/2 capful. Then I pour that into a holding cup, with my sea squirt feeder (like a turkey baster) its got more of an eye dropper end and its very long. I suck up small amounts and dose the corals and inverts that require it. What ever doesnt get consumed by them goes to the tank and they filter feed. The second part to this and the most critical is the Chromamax Expert. This is very concentrated and has millions of particulate of plankton per drop. This in particular is the one that can hurt your tank, 2 drops from an eye dropper is enough to crash my tank. Anyway, I take another holding cup and fill it with some tank water about 1/2" to 3/4" of water in like a small drinking glass. Then I add one drop of the expert chromax, mix it up. I dose my other inverts with that, particularly my flame scallop and my anenomie. Your other inverts will also benifit from this as well its just they prefer the smaller plankton. I DO NOT USE IT ALL, only about 1/3 to 1/2 of that mixture for them.
The reason for transfering every thing to a holding cup is the plankton bottles have a preservative in them, it keeps it from going bad. If you get water on the supplied eye dropper and put it back into that bottle you will skunk the whole thing. I dont know about pricing where you are but the expert series plankton was $25.00 a bottle for me. It should last about a year though.
The Phytomax is a bigger bottle and is not as concentrated so I dont dilute that in water. The expert is extremly concentrated and thats why you would need to dilute it. Especially if you do both at the same time.
Ok hope that helps, its not complicated at all but you see what I mean about transfer from bottle to tank.
Good luck, Im no pro by any means and this is new to me too, but what ever I find out I like to offer in hopes that it helps someone as it has me. :joy:
 

perfectdark

Active Member
Originally Posted by Adairable
What is a good type of salt? I think I have reef crystals or something like that

I am no NERD I am as hip as they get......ok that was a joke.
I actually get my RO/DI water and it is premixed with salt. But I dont know if thats available to you.
 

perfectdark

Active Member
Originally Posted by Adairable
and speaking of pimped out rides....my '93 subaru loyale stick with hail damage beats your chevette anyday!!! Bring it!
SCORE:
Adair=1
PerfectDark=0
you win..
 

adairable

Member
Originally Posted by spanko
Houston we have a problem.
Okay Adorable :thinking:
Are there any fish left in your tank?
If not what is you coral and invert list?
You did not add the LFS water to you tank when placing your buys in did you?
Are you relatively sure that the clown died from ICH?
When did it die?
Have there been fish in the tank since heshe died?
Here goes:
No fish in the tank, Rowdy (clown) had been there for 2 weeks eating and be absolutely adorable
Introduced electric blue hermit (Tank) TRYING to make sure no LFS water got in the tank
2 days later Rowdy has ich and Tanks leg falls off
2 days after I can tell he has ich, Rowdy dies
3 days later (yesterday) I find Tank dead, out of his shell
Corals include: blue mushrooms, hairy mushrooms, ricordea florida, pulsating xenia, purple/green, red and blue zoos, green moon coral, and a couple others that I don’t know the name of them but there might be a pic of them on the first page....
Inverts include: 4 small blue legged hermits and 9 turbo snails
and a bunch of bristle/fire worms
I am pretty sure it was ich, I looked at the pictures on the disease thread and it looked very similar
and he died about 5 days ago
no fish has been added or will be added to my tank for i think its six weeks?
 

adairable

Member
Originally Posted by PerfectDark
I am no NERD I am as hip as they get......ok that was a joke.
I actually get my RO/DI water and it is premixed with salt. But I dont know if thats available to you.
no pre mix for me....i get gallons of RO water at the grocery and then mix the salt the day or two before the water change
 

spanko

Active Member
Yes you do need to keep the tank fallow (no fish) for at least 6 weeks. Also need to work on your calcium and maybe your alkalinity if you can get a good reading on it. Keep up with the water changes 10% per week if possible. Keep a good eye on your corals to watch for any adverse changes in them.
I can't impress on you enough the you need to bring your calcium up, but don't do it all at once. The shock will be worse than having it down so low. here is a calculator if the moderator does not block the site.
http://reefshow.com/html/modules.php...howpage&pid=76
 

adairable

Member
Originally Posted by spanko
Yes you do need to keep the tank fallow (no fish) for at least 6 weeks. Also need to work on your calcium and maybe your alkalinity if you can get a good reading on it. Keep up with the water changes 10% per week if possible. Keep a good eye on your corals to watch for any adverse changes in them.
I can't impress on you enough the you need to bring your calcium up, but don't do it all at once. The shock will be worse than having it down so low. here is a calculator if the moderator does not block the site.
http://reefshow.com/html/modules.php...howpage&pid=76
thanks for all your help...
I have some RO water mixed with a couple of tablespoons of pickling stuff, but I have't been using it to top off lately b/c my SG has been about 1.022 to 1.023 and I was trying to get it a little higher by adding salt water for top offs
should I switch to using the limewater for top offs and just add a little more salt to my weekly/biweekly 10% water change (only a gallon)
and man do I need to get a good alk test, anyone got suggestions?
 

spanko

Active Member
I would think that you would use just fresh RODI or distilled water for top off. then on your weekly water changes, test the display and see if anything needs to be dosed. Then dose it in your 10% change water which you have also tested.
This works for me but I will bow to any and all others that have a system that has worked for them.
 
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