Flower's Sump/Fuge Build

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///forum/thread/380517/flower-s-sump-fuge-build/360#post_3315383
My rim is 1 inch and then a little 1/2 or 1/4th inch lip just under it. I can't really tell what that lower lip is. They are not even s it's hard to determin...Is it important to be exact?
The close the better, yeah. It's sounds like it might actually be the same size as the trim on my 120g. You can see in the picture that the rim is just about an inch and when you add the bottom lip into the mix then it comes to right about an 1-1/4".
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Sounds good Flower on the company!!!!! When ever you can get a chance can you get me some exact measurements on the heater.....I need to know the exact length and curious about the rough diameter is of the heater.......
At this point were moving along.....I flush cut "trimmed" the bottom panel flush with the rest of the sump.....Currently trying to lay the top panel out, and build my pattern jig to cut the top and get the eurobracing done......At this moment I currently have the sump leveled and sitting with roughly 4" of water in it, doing the initial leak test....At this point I'm looking for 2 things.....! the obvious is leakage, and I have none so far at this point, but the other area I'm looking at is the amount of deflection or bowing of the material at this point......I'm going to let it sit a bit and will raise the water level to 8" in depth and again check for leakage and measure for deflection "bowing" in the panels. At the 4" level I have none....I want to have the top eurobracing done before I completely fill the sump. I want to be able to run it to about 12"-13" full to simulate a power outage......
Will have pics later this evening hopefully......
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/380517/flower-s-sump-fuge-build/380#post_3315489
Sounds good Flower on the company!!!!! When ever you can get a chance can you get me some exact measurements on the heater.....I need to know the exact length and curious about the rough diameter is of the heater.......
At this point were moving along.....I flush cut "trimmed" the bottom panel flush with the rest of the sump.....Currently trying to lay the top panel out, and build my pattern jig to cut the top and get the eurobracing done......At this moment I currently have the sump leveled and sitting with roughly 4" of water in it, doing the initial leak test....At this point I'm looking for 2 things.....! the obvious is leakage, and I have none so far at this point, but the other area I'm looking at is the amount of deflection or bowing of the material at this point......I'm going to let it sit a bit and will raise the water level to 8" in depth and again check for leakage and measure for deflection "bowing" in the panels. At the 4" level I have none....I want to have the top eurobracing done before I completely fill the sump. I want to be able to run it to about 12"-13" full to simulate a power outage......
Will have pics later this evening hopefully......
Company just left..Sorry.
Alright the heater..LOL, I thought you wanted to know what kind. My mind was elsewhere..add 1/2 inch on the rear for the plug end where that sticks out.
 

u mike

Member
I have a question , where are you going to put the heater? the reason I ask is that when I had the guy from the store help me he we put my heater on a piece of glass with suction cups, then I added sand/ rock rubble in the fuge then put the heater on top of the sand.I just wanted to know if there are other ways to do this.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by u mike http:///forum/thread/380517/flower-s-sump-fuge-build/380#post_3315524
I have a question , where are you going to put the heater? the reason I ask is that when I had the guy from the store help me he we put my heater on a piece of glass with suction cups, then I added sand/ rock rubble in the fuge then put the heater on top of the sand.I just wanted to know if there are other ways to do this.

I always just stuck it behind some rock so it was out of sight..I think the plan is to put in the sump out of sight.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
My plan is to move the heater to the sump......I have my reasons I like it there, but nothing really scientific I guess to m reasoning.....It just seems to be a more practical place IMO, because it's one less thing you have to try to camoflauge in the tank, and if you bury it behind a bunch of rock a lot of people have to rip things apart to get to the heater if something were to go wrong...... My other logic behind it in the sump is the water that has left the DT on it's way to the sump and all the processes going in down there it would seem most logical to me to heat the water if needed on the way back to the tank, plus if it goes nuts on you it's within super easy reach....Probably none of this makes any sense just seems logical in my own mind.
Quote:
Originally Posted by u mike http:///forum/thread/380517/flower-s-sump-fuge-build/380#post_3315524
I have a question , where are you going to put the heater? the reason I ask is that when I had the guy from the store help me he we put my heater on a piece of glass with suction cups, then I added sand/ rock rubble in the fuge then put the heater on top of the sand.I just wanted to know if there are other ways to do this.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/380517/flower-s-sump-fuge-build/380#post_3315539
My plan is to move the heater to the sump......I have my reasons I like it there, but nothing really scientific I guess to m reasoning.....It just seems to be a more practical place IMO, because it's one less thing you have to try to camoflauge in the tank, and if you bury it behind a bunch of rock a lot of people have to rip things apart to get to the heater if something were to go wrong...... My other logic behind it in the sump is the water that has left the DT on it's way to the sump and all the processes going in down there it would seem most logical to me to heat the water if needed on the way back to the tank, plus if it goes nuts on you it's within super easy reach....Probably none of this makes any sense just seems logical in my own mind.

I would like to add...my heater broke and electricuted the tank, killing my coral and the life off of my sand and rock before my GFCI outlets shut stuff down..that could not happen if it were in the sump.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
The heater could break no matter where you place it, but in the sump in the return area nothing logically will be in there beating it around or anything so breakage would be freak, but you can't rule out the heater shorting, or something of that nature, but if the GFCI didn't shut it down, then the most logical thing would be to take a look at the GFCI, and replace it.......
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///forum/thread/380517/flower-s-sump-fuge-build/380#post_3315545

I wuld like to add...my heater broke and electricuted the tank, killing my coral and the life off of my sand and rock before my GFCI outlets shut stuff down..that could not happen if it were in the sump.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
A bit of an update......I'm still in the process of leak testing, and getting anxious as usually, but I've bumped the water level to roughly the operating level of 8"....
During the day I did accomplish laying out the eurobracing, and such and will share a couple pics of how I went about cutting the eurobracing. You'll see tanks, sumps eurobraced many different ways, but again my reliable source from Envision has assured me many times for structural and the upmost in support and spreading the stress the eurobracing on the top should be done in 1 solid piece instead of 4 separate pieces.......
So enough with the theory here's some pics!!!!!!!


This is a pic showing the overhang I left on both the front and back sides of the sump......

Pic showing the bottom cut flush....This process I used a double fluted flush trim bit...

Another view of the bottom trimmed flush.....I will have to take pics of the bits I used for various cuts for people who are unsure of what exactly the bits look like.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
So alittle more with the updates.....Hope your enjoying Flower!!!!!
I started working on the top eurobracing for extra support of the sump. I have taken the water level to 8", and the deflection (bowing) hasn't happen yet....but I know as the water level does increase I will see some, and with that said here are some pics of the process of building the router jig, and setup for the cutting of the eurobracing....I wish I was steady enough to cut free hand with a router, but not enough coffee or cigarettes could ever help my steadiness.....
Excuse the cutouts already on the MDF....I didn't take pics till after wards which is typically what happens, because I get so caught up with what I'm working on....Again I want a flat level surface to work with and the MDF works perfect.....You will also notice that I have little scraps of wood tacked around the perimeter....I did this because it's a pain to use clamps when doing router work, and having to stop once you get on a roll, somehow I seem to misalign something and the cut is off. To avoid using clamps and they type of bit I was going to be using for this cut, I decided I would place my solid piece of 3/8" acrylic on the MDF, and use the wood blocks and pinch(hold) the acrylic tight between the wood blocks keeping the acrylic from wanting to wander or walk away from me while routing......

Ok...don't laugh!!!!! I had some old cabinet doors laying around the garage I was stashing for a rainy day!!!!
They were perfect....A little big and wide, but a couple cuts on the miter and table saw they were perfectly.....I had to cut them down quite a bit, and used my pocket hole setup to join everything back together....Off the top of my head I think there might be 8 different joints in it to make it complete......I chose the doors for the factory radius cuts in the corners....This is an important key with distributing the stress that could be applied as the sump is filled with water. The radius cut or curve distributes the load/stress instead of squared off corners....If you happen to take notice to acrylic tanks built by most reputable fabricators you will see this detail in there work......

Again I took the pics after the cuts were already made, because I forgot and actually didn't want my camera out in the garage with all the dust and such......But this give you an idea of how the acrylic was sandwiched between the MDF and the router jig.....Once I tacked the wood blocks snugly against the acrylic I laid my router jig on top of the acrylic lining everything up with the marks I had drawn on the acrylic, and then I tacked the router jig down to the wood blocks with the nail gun.....

A simple small pry bar underneath the corners of the router jig on all 4 corners and the wood jig easily popped away from the wood blocks, and here you have the end result !!!!!! As you can see some of the lines I had drawn on the acrylic before had helped me align the router jig when ready, and took alot of the guess work out of things. I still have to do alittle hand sanding and wet sand the cutouts.....All the edges of the sump including the baffles will be polished.....Highly polished as most of you guys know I'm a gloss fanatic!!!!!

I will get you pics of the router bits this time around.....The reason I had the wood router jig on top of the acrylic work piece instead of underneath it, as most are probably accustomed to seeing when using a straight cut out bit. The bit I chose for the cut out was a straight cut bit, but it was a fluted pattern bit, which actually has the guide bearing on top of the bit, instead of underneath the cutters.....
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Everything looks great, Shawn!!! Hey, you got enough scrap laying around to put me together an 8x2x2 tank?
 

flower

Well-Known Member

I don’t have much time; I have to go to work. I am not sure what a euro brace is..I THINK you mean the lip on the top? I thought that was to stop splashes. Shows you what I know.
As for the broken heater, that first zap killed the tank inverts and most of my corals. If I had not had the GFI outlets it would have killed everything. I was thinking if the heater was in the sump..Wouldn’t that original zap only of been in the sump and not killed my critters…???? Would electricity carry through the entire system anyway?
I got a titanium heater because they are supposed to be the best ones. I have never had a heater problem before. I hope to not have any in the future.
Everything looks great Shawn…I can hardly wait to see it all together. The company I had over was my friend who does work for me, he hung the pulley system for my lights..I had not seen him and his wife in months…he really liked your work and was checking all the stuff you were doing…When he is impressed you know your good. Shawn he was very impressed with you.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Thank You Flower!!!!!! The "eurobracing" can actually serve a couple purposes, but it's main function is structural strength for a sump. It's what ties the walls together to make it more rigid or stronger....Kind of like building a house....with just the walls in place it's pretty strong, but when you add the roof to the structure you tie it all together......
The heater putting off stray electrical current or any device, wouldn't matter where it was in the system....the water is the conductor, and the current would travel through the water through the entire system....More the mere fact of removing clutter from the DT that is all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///forum/thread/380517/flower-s-sump-fuge-build/380#post_3315615

I don’t have much time; I have to go to work. I am not sure what a euro brace is..I THINK you mean the lip on the top? I thought that was to stop splashes. Shows you what I know.
As for the broken heater, that first zap killed the tank inverts and most of my corals. If I had not had the GFI outlets it would have killed everything. I was thinking if the heater was in the sump..Wouldn’t that original zap only of been in the sump and not killed my critters…???? Would electricity carry through the entire system anyway?
I got a titanium heater because they are supposed to be the best ones. I have never had a heater problem before. I hope to not have any in the future.
Everything looks great Shawn…I can hardly wait to see it all together. The company I had over was my friend who does work for me, he hung the pulley system for my lights..I had not seen him and his wife in months…he really liked your work and was checking all the stuff you were doing…When he is impressed you know your good. Shawn he was very impressed with you.
 
Top