Gauging Interest!!!! People Interested in DIY LED Builds?????
- Thread starter acrylic51
- Start date
sweatervest13
Active Member
For the C Channels are you just talking about the shape of the material? Meaning steel bent into a boxed 'C" ? Can they be made if you have the right material? What type of material is used? Only reason I ask is because I work in the steel industry and have access to things like this.
monsinour
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/386377/gauging-interest-people-interested-in-diy-led-builds#post_3393591
Tubing I had read isn't very effective. Even cooling by blowing air through the tube not very effective??
I dont get how that would be the case. CPU Cases are designed on this princeple. Suck the air in on one side and blow it out on the other. Contstant air movement though the case keeps the PC cool. LEDs arent going to get as hot as a processor or memory so it should work just fine. As long as there is adaquite airflow through the tube and there is plenty of surface contact for the heat to disipate onto and off of, it should work just fine. I would be more leary of a "C" channel as you would have to have fans every so often just to keep it cool. I thought I saw someone put something like this (tube not channel) together on a different forum. Not on RC but on R2R.
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/386377/gauging-interest-people-interested-in-diy-led-builds#post_3393591
Tubing I had read isn't very effective. Even cooling by blowing air through the tube not very effective??
I dont get how that would be the case. CPU Cases are designed on this princeple. Suck the air in on one side and blow it out on the other. Contstant air movement though the case keeps the PC cool. LEDs arent going to get as hot as a processor or memory so it should work just fine. As long as there is adaquite airflow through the tube and there is plenty of surface contact for the heat to disipate onto and off of, it should work just fine. I would be more leary of a "C" channel as you would have to have fans every so often just to keep it cool. I thought I saw someone put something like this (tube not channel) together on a different forum. Not on RC but on R2R.
242bats
Member
found some 10" channle at the fab shop today thay have what i would need to make my system with. the price sounds good, it works out to 11.28 a foot, without cuts. the problem, it is 15' long and i need 9.5' if thay cut it, it will go up in per ft. price and it is 12.50 a cut. heatsink works out to be 36.00 a foot. a big dif. i thank i will buy the 15' make the cuts and use the other 5.5' on one of my other tank at a later time.
thanks for the help.
thanks for the help.
2quills
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by sweatervest13 http:///forum/thread/386377/gauging-interest-people-interested-in-diy-led-builds/20#post_3393635
For the C Channels are you just talking about the shape of the material? Meaning steel bent into a boxed 'C" ? Can they be made if you have the right material? What type of material is used? Only reason I ask is because I work in the steel industry and have access to things like this.
Has to be aluminium for it's thermal conductivity properties. Much better than any other type of metal.
Originally Posted by sweatervest13 http:///forum/thread/386377/gauging-interest-people-interested-in-diy-led-builds/20#post_3393635
For the C Channels are you just talking about the shape of the material? Meaning steel bent into a boxed 'C" ? Can they be made if you have the right material? What type of material is used? Only reason I ask is because I work in the steel industry and have access to things like this.
Has to be aluminium for it's thermal conductivity properties. Much better than any other type of metal.
2quills
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monsinour http:///forum/thread/386377/gauging-interest-people-interested-in-diy-led-builds/20#post_3393698
I dont get how that would be the case. CPU Cases are designed on this princeple. Suck the air in on one side and blow it out on the other. Contstant air movement though the case keeps the PC cool. LEDs arent going to get as hot as a processor or memory so it should work just fine. As long as there is adaquite airflow through the tube and there is plenty of surface contact for the heat to disipate onto and off of, it should work just fine. I would be more leary of a "C" channel as you would have to have fans every so often just to keep it cool. I thought I saw someone put something like this (tube not channel) together on a different forum. Not on RC but on R2R.
I had wondered about this as well. The square tubing is much easier to come by at the lowes and the depot down here. Folks claim that it acts more as a heat trap for hot air inside the tube. I also thought about having fans blow through the tubes. I know some people are using it but haven't seen any real world testing or long term results to say whether or not which works best. For me where I ran into a road block was with design. Finding a good way to get enough air flow through the tube to cool the entire thing effectively.
And then I wondered if one side was getting cooler air coming in while the other side was pulling warmer air out, would one side stay cooler than the other, or would there not be much of a difference to be even worth mentioning?
Also, would you go with large tubes, like tubes large enough to mount the smallest pc fans on either end? Would you try to make some type of housing or manifold to catch all of the air flow from the fans and direct them down the tubes? Or would you just have a series of fans on either side of the tubes pushing and pulling in the same direction of the tubes?
It just seemed to me that in order to make it more effective would require more work. But not out of the realm of possibility by any means.
I'm probably going to order a heat sink from heatsinkusa.com. If I decide to go linear with the design I'll just cut it into thinner strips like the ones they sell at rapidled.com. Since I'll probably going with a higher amount of leds than what is really needed I'd rather just play it safe. Cost wise I think you get alot more bang for your buck that way. Unless you can find a really good deal on the channel or tubing then heat sinks seem to be a better way to go in my book for about twice the cost of the tube or channel. At least for my plans anyway.
Originally Posted by Monsinour http:///forum/thread/386377/gauging-interest-people-interested-in-diy-led-builds/20#post_3393698
I dont get how that would be the case. CPU Cases are designed on this princeple. Suck the air in on one side and blow it out on the other. Contstant air movement though the case keeps the PC cool. LEDs arent going to get as hot as a processor or memory so it should work just fine. As long as there is adaquite airflow through the tube and there is plenty of surface contact for the heat to disipate onto and off of, it should work just fine. I would be more leary of a "C" channel as you would have to have fans every so often just to keep it cool. I thought I saw someone put something like this (tube not channel) together on a different forum. Not on RC but on R2R.
I had wondered about this as well. The square tubing is much easier to come by at the lowes and the depot down here. Folks claim that it acts more as a heat trap for hot air inside the tube. I also thought about having fans blow through the tubes. I know some people are using it but haven't seen any real world testing or long term results to say whether or not which works best. For me where I ran into a road block was with design. Finding a good way to get enough air flow through the tube to cool the entire thing effectively.
And then I wondered if one side was getting cooler air coming in while the other side was pulling warmer air out, would one side stay cooler than the other, or would there not be much of a difference to be even worth mentioning?
It just seemed to me that in order to make it more effective would require more work. But not out of the realm of possibility by any means.
I'm probably going to order a heat sink from heatsinkusa.com. If I decide to go linear with the design I'll just cut it into thinner strips like the ones they sell at rapidled.com. Since I'll probably going with a higher amount of leds than what is really needed I'd rather just play it safe. Cost wise I think you get alot more bang for your buck that way. Unless you can find a really good deal on the channel or tubing then heat sinks seem to be a better way to go in my book for about twice the cost of the tube or channel. At least for my plans anyway.
2quills
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cipher43 http:///forum/thread/386377/gauging-interest-people-interested-in-diy-led-builds#post_3393575
Yep i plan on making one similar to 2Quills but may start out with less LEDs and see if i need more after i start. I plan on using inch wide C channel on mine making 4 bars with 12 cool white ,12blue, 12royal blue, and 12natural white mix on them, blues on one driver and whites on the other. also will expand another 12 to 24 LEDs once i get it up and going i think. just trying to save money and if i dont need that many lights i wont put them on. Im kinda interested in the HLGs also for dimming and number of bulbs they can run. hopefully 2Quills makes his first so i can see how his lights his 120 lol.
Going by the recommendations on reefledlights.com. If you are going to want to keep SPS (which I want an sps dominant tank) then you need to do 1 led for every 12-15 square inches of surface area. My tank footprint is essentially 60x18" which would equate to 90 leds if I go with a 1 - 12sq inch ratio. I'm still playing around with ideas. I may not go with the color ratio that I posted on the other thread but it will be something similar. I'm kind of leaning towards just going with all blues and whites on two drivers to begin with and then make changes later. I'm still not a 100% sure yet. It's probably all going to come down to how much cash I have in the fish tank budget and how long I want to wait lol.
Originally Posted by Cipher43 http:///forum/thread/386377/gauging-interest-people-interested-in-diy-led-builds#post_3393575
Yep i plan on making one similar to 2Quills but may start out with less LEDs and see if i need more after i start. I plan on using inch wide C channel on mine making 4 bars with 12 cool white ,12blue, 12royal blue, and 12natural white mix on them, blues on one driver and whites on the other. also will expand another 12 to 24 LEDs once i get it up and going i think. just trying to save money and if i dont need that many lights i wont put them on. Im kinda interested in the HLGs also for dimming and number of bulbs they can run. hopefully 2Quills makes his first so i can see how his lights his 120 lol.
Going by the recommendations on reefledlights.com. If you are going to want to keep SPS (which I want an sps dominant tank) then you need to do 1 led for every 12-15 square inches of surface area. My tank footprint is essentially 60x18" which would equate to 90 leds if I go with a 1 - 12sq inch ratio. I'm still playing around with ideas. I may not go with the color ratio that I posted on the other thread but it will be something similar. I'm kind of leaning towards just going with all blues and whites on two drivers to begin with and then make changes later. I'm still not a 100% sure yet. It's probably all going to come down to how much cash I have in the fish tank budget and how long I want to wait lol.
acrylic51
Active Member
Ok guys and gals!!!!!
Got the quotes back and rather a large difference between the 2 sources. The drivers of interest seems to be the HLG-185H-48B and the HLG-185H-42B. Both drivers offer the 3 way dimming function. You can check MeanWells site for more detailed specs.
Pricing for the HLG-185-42B is $117.95 with a price drop to $106.95 if we order 10 or more at a shot. The HLG-185H-48B pricing is $102.95 a unit and if we purchase 5 or more the price would drop to $97.95.
Check the data sheets to see if these or another might fit your needs!!!! Let me know!!!
Got the quotes back and rather a large difference between the 2 sources. The drivers of interest seems to be the HLG-185H-48B and the HLG-185H-42B. Both drivers offer the 3 way dimming function. You can check MeanWells site for more detailed specs.
Pricing for the HLG-185-42B is $117.95 with a price drop to $106.95 if we order 10 or more at a shot. The HLG-185H-48B pricing is $102.95 a unit and if we purchase 5 or more the price would drop to $97.95.
Check the data sheets to see if these or another might fit your needs!!!! Let me know!!!
slice
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/386377/gauging-interest-people-interested-in-diy-led-builds/20#post_3394004
I'd ship them out!!!
pssst...don't forget the packaging....
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/386377/gauging-interest-people-interested-in-diy-led-builds/20#post_3394004
I'd ship them out!!!
pssst...don't forget the packaging....
monsinour
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/386377/gauging-interest-people-interested-in-diy-led-builds/20#post_3394026
Thanks!!!!! These would definitely be shipped FedEx!!!
^^Irony
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/386377/gauging-interest-people-interested-in-diy-led-builds/20#post_3394026
^^Irony
cipher43
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/386377/gauging-interest-people-interested-in-diy-led-builds/20#post_3393986
Ok guys and gals!!!!!
Got the quotes back and rather a large difference between the 2 sources. The drivers of interest seems to be the HLG-185H-48B and the HLG-185H-42B. Both drivers offer the 3 way dimming function. You can check MeanWells site for more detailed specs.
Pricing for the HLG-185-42B is $117.95 with a price drop to $106.95 if we order 10 or more at a shot. The HLG-185H-48B pricing is $102.95 a unit and if we purchase 5 or more the price would drop to $97.95.
Check the data sheets to see if these or another might fit your needs!!!! Let me know!!!
so approximately how many 3 watt bulbs would either of these drive. if one of them would work better for dimming 24-48 lights that would be good. not sure tho if that is possible tho. also do these use pwm or analog signal on the dimmer because i was planning on building an arduino for it also to emulate dusk and dawn and also a few other things.
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/386377/gauging-interest-people-interested-in-diy-led-builds/20#post_3393986
Ok guys and gals!!!!!
Got the quotes back and rather a large difference between the 2 sources. The drivers of interest seems to be the HLG-185H-48B and the HLG-185H-42B. Both drivers offer the 3 way dimming function. You can check MeanWells site for more detailed specs.
Pricing for the HLG-185-42B is $117.95 with a price drop to $106.95 if we order 10 or more at a shot. The HLG-185H-48B pricing is $102.95 a unit and if we purchase 5 or more the price would drop to $97.95.
Check the data sheets to see if these or another might fit your needs!!!! Let me know!!!
so approximately how many 3 watt bulbs would either of these drive. if one of them would work better for dimming 24-48 lights that would be good. not sure tho if that is possible tho. also do these use pwm or analog signal on the dimmer because i was planning on building an arduino for it also to emulate dusk and dawn and also a few other things.
2quills
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cipher43 http:///forum/thread/386377/gauging-interest-people-interested-in-diy-led-builds/20#post_3394356
so approximately how many 3 watt bulbs would either of these drive. if one of them would work better for dimming 24-48 lights that would be good. not sure tho if that is possible tho. also do these use pwm or analog signal on the dimmer because i was planning on building an arduino for it also to emulate dusk and dawn and also a few other things.
They both could drive 24-48 cree's in parallel series depending how you set them up. The HLG (B series) divers have 3 types of dimming capabilites, PWM, 1-10v or Resistor. That's what nice about them, you don't have to buy one or the other if you want to start out with say 1-10v and then change to pwm. If you're only looking to drive 24 leds then the HLG 80-48B or the HLG 120-48B is probably a better choice but you could do either or. The difference would be the max current output you'd get out of them. The 185's would be way more than what you really need for 24 leds, but it would still work.
Originally Posted by Cipher43 http:///forum/thread/386377/gauging-interest-people-interested-in-diy-led-builds/20#post_3394356
so approximately how many 3 watt bulbs would either of these drive. if one of them would work better for dimming 24-48 lights that would be good. not sure tho if that is possible tho. also do these use pwm or analog signal on the dimmer because i was planning on building an arduino for it also to emulate dusk and dawn and also a few other things.
They both could drive 24-48 cree's in parallel series depending how you set them up. The HLG (B series) divers have 3 types of dimming capabilites, PWM, 1-10v or Resistor. That's what nice about them, you don't have to buy one or the other if you want to start out with say 1-10v and then change to pwm. If you're only looking to drive 24 leds then the HLG 80-48B or the HLG 120-48B is probably a better choice but you could do either or. The difference would be the max current output you'd get out of them. The 185's would be way more than what you really need for 24 leds, but it would still work.
cipher43
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/386377/gauging-interest-people-interested-in-diy-led-builds/20#post_3394385
They both could drive 24-48 cree's in parallel series depending how you set them up. The HLG (B series) divers have 3 types of dimming capabilites, PWM, 1-10v or Resistor. That's what nice about them, you don't have to buy one or the other if you want to start out with say 1-10v and then change to pwm. If you're only looking to drive 24 leds then the HLG 80-48B or the HLG 120-48B is probably a better choice but you could do either or. The difference would be the max current output you'd get out of them. The 185's would be way more than what you really need for 24 leds, but it would still work.
i figure im gonna need more that 24 per 1 (Starting total of 48) with this 120 gal build. how many would you say i need for the 120 just like yours Corey if i want to put any type of coral in the tank?
Also what is the overall difference between the HLG-185-42B and the HLG-185H-42B?
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/386377/gauging-interest-people-interested-in-diy-led-builds/20#post_3394385
They both could drive 24-48 cree's in parallel series depending how you set them up. The HLG (B series) divers have 3 types of dimming capabilites, PWM, 1-10v or Resistor. That's what nice about them, you don't have to buy one or the other if you want to start out with say 1-10v and then change to pwm. If you're only looking to drive 24 leds then the HLG 80-48B or the HLG 120-48B is probably a better choice but you could do either or. The difference would be the max current output you'd get out of them. The 185's would be way more than what you really need for 24 leds, but it would still work.
i figure im gonna need more that 24 per 1 (Starting total of 48) with this 120 gal build. how many would you say i need for the 120 just like yours Corey if i want to put any type of coral in the tank?
Also what is the overall difference between the HLG-185-42B and the HLG-185H-42B?
2quills
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cipher43 http:///forum/thread/386377/gauging-interest-people-interested-in-diy-led-builds/20#post_3394414
i figure im gonna need more that 24 per 1 (Starting total of 48) with this 120 gal build. how many would you say i need for the 120 just like yours Corey if i want to put any type of coral in the tank?
Also what is the overall difference between the HLG-185-42B and the HLG-185H-42B?
Meanwell decided to end up producing the H version only and not do the non H version. That's per Jon Landau at Peak Power. The diference was that the non H version would have been rated for 90-264Vac, where as the H version is rated for 90-305Vac input. You're going to be using 120Vac input from your house so the difference wouldn't matter in our case anyways. So regardless of whatever websites say you would end up with the H version.
My 120g is a slightly different footprint than yours I believe. Mine is a 120G Long 60"x18" footprint. I think yours is 48"x24", yes? Going by the ratio provided by reefledlights.com if you want to keep sps then you should go with at least 1 led for every 15 square inches of surface area which would be 76 leds. I'm shooting for probably 80 leds on my build.
Originally Posted by Cipher43 http:///forum/thread/386377/gauging-interest-people-interested-in-diy-led-builds/20#post_3394414
i figure im gonna need more that 24 per 1 (Starting total of 48) with this 120 gal build. how many would you say i need for the 120 just like yours Corey if i want to put any type of coral in the tank?
Also what is the overall difference between the HLG-185-42B and the HLG-185H-42B?
Meanwell decided to end up producing the H version only and not do the non H version. That's per Jon Landau at Peak Power. The diference was that the non H version would have been rated for 90-264Vac, where as the H version is rated for 90-305Vac input. You're going to be using 120Vac input from your house so the difference wouldn't matter in our case anyways. So regardless of whatever websites say you would end up with the H version.
My 120g is a slightly different footprint than yours I believe. Mine is a 120G Long 60"x18" footprint. I think yours is 48"x24", yes? Going by the ratio provided by reefledlights.com if you want to keep sps then you should go with at least 1 led for every 15 square inches of surface area which would be 76 leds. I'm shooting for probably 80 leds on my build.