getting very angry with my lfs

2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by Sparty059
http:///forum/post/3296104
PS- 2Quills(and everyone else), thank you for all the help you've provided me through this process. I wouldn't have had the slightest clue on where to start if it hadn't been for this forum. I know I've asked many questions and taken a great deal of time out of many peoples days but I am truly thankful that you all were able to help me out and move me along in this new hobby of mine.
I feel I have to single you out here 2Quills because you've been here since pretty much post 1.

There have been quite a few folks offer you some great info here. Just happy to be a part.

You should thank, Meowzer. She made me do it.
 
posiden

posiden

Active Member
I didn't know it was Monday yet????
It sounds like your getting the Mag 9.5. Not a big deal, I would place a T in the return line and a ball valve to send some water back to the sump if you should need to slow down the flow a bit. I don't like to just restrict the pump. Give it a way to pump what it was designed too. It will run more efficient that way. All the info I posted was based on 650 GPH running the system. That comes from a Mag 9 after head loss and restriction. You'll be close to my figures but may need a little less flow. That's right, a 950 GPH pump doesn't give you that.
As mentioned I would support those pipes. That's quite a bit of cantilever going on there. With water in them they will get more heavy causing stress on things which will cause a failure later on down the road.
The only other concern I have for you, is your fire place. It looks like you use it and that could not be a good thing come this winter. That of course depends on how much you use it.
Looks like you got a handle on things too. Good luck and stay dry.
 
sparty059

sparty059

Active Member
It's funny you mention the fireplace... that was a concern of mine as well... I don't use it too often but maybe once or twice a winter.
I also have the T splinter directing water to the sump and to the refuge. I did also install (post picture) a ball valve and will be directing more water to the sump rather the refuge.
What problem will I run into with the mag drive 9.5? I don't understand exactly.
 
sparty059

sparty059

Active Member
Just me and its about how they were telling me to buy other stuff I didn't need. so I use this forum instead!
 
sparty059

sparty059

Active Member
Ok everyone... tell me is there is ANYTHING else I need to modify before gluing all the pieces together! Here are the pictures of my tank... I have one last piece that isn't connected which is the pipe that will be going from the pump to the corner pipe between the two pipes that connect to the two drilled holes in the tall tank. Let me know if I might have to move my pipes up a little bit on the sump and refuge sides and if I have to cut some pipe off of the pipes coming from refuge to sump.
Attachment 245316Attachment 245317Attachment 245318Attachment 245319Attachment 245320




 
posiden

posiden

Active Member
Originally Posted by Sparty059
http:///forum/post/3296144
It's funny you mention the fireplace... that was a concern of mine as well... I don't use it too often but maybe once or twice a winter.
I also have the T splinter directing water to the sump and to the refuge. I did also install (post picture) a ball valve and will be directing more water to the sump rather the refuge.
What problem will I run into with the mag drive 9.5? I don't understand exactly.
I'm not speaking of the drain. I'm talking about the return line from the pump. You still need to build that piece. By placing a T in that line and a ball valve, you can direct flow back to the sump without choking the pump down. This will allow you to get more or less flow from your return pump to tune the drain line and or control the water level in the display. If you look back at my post I stated the water level will rise about 5/8-11/16" due to the resistance on the teeth. That's based on 650 ish GPH. That, then puts you at the MAX you can handle for back flow into your sump tank. That's also based on the return placement. Keep them high in the DT.
Your plumbing looks pretty good. Don't forget to secure the pipes. The other thing that kinda jumps out at me on the plumbing is. Depending on how tightly you fit those joints (dry) when you glue them and place them back together they're gonna go in further. Causing your pipes to be shorter then they are now. Again, I didn't do the dry fit work so I'm not sure how tight they are now. Just something to think about/ watch for as your doing the glue up.
 
sparty059

sparty059

Active Member
I dont think I fully understand... would you be able to draw a picture of what you mean regarding the return pipe with a t and ball valve?
 
sparty059

sparty059

Active Member
Ok, so I just want it to go back into the sump and stay below water level correct? Or will that also be near the top of the water level? Does everything else look good level wise? I don't remember if I need to have the O/F pipes be all 1/2 above water and 1/2 below like how you were saying with the 90 degree fitting.
 
sparty059

sparty059

Active Member
The final product? All ball valves in there, all the T pipes in there... just need to know if it will flow even with the water level placements?
For example, will the pipe coming from the O/F into the Refuge be high enough to only have half water in half out? Lastly do I need to hook any pipes up to the skimmer or will it just spit it ou on its own?
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Impulsivly buy into a new hobby - CHECK!
Buy all equipement - CHECK!
Customize equipement - CHECK!
Build a whole pipe system - CHECK!





 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
WOW...you did a great job....BUT...Did you leabe the price stickers on the fittings ..LOL...I see an orange sticker on the T
 
sparty059

sparty059

Active Member
It's an everyday reminder that I spent money on all of this! :) I suppose I may have accidently left that one on.
So here's a follow up question to the coral... I'm very dead set on it but if you all continue to say NO then I will not. BUT... What if I build my rock structure and put some corals near the top of the rock structre. Will it be ok to live in my tank then with the lighting that I have?
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
NO, you know there are LOW light corals.....you just can not have an anemone, clam, brains..etc
do some research on the corals, you will see what you can or can NOT have with pc lighting
 
sparty059

sparty059

Active Member
WHOOOOO!!!! I have finally glued all of my pipes! I'm going to let it sit over night and will be installing it all once I get home tomorrow! Now I am waiting on the pump (still in the mail
) and my slabs of glass... which I have decided I will be doing
2) 8" x 11 1/2"
1) 9" x 11 1/2"
1) 14" x 11 1/2"
Just to be sure of any chance for over flow. Once I get those last few things I will officially be doing a back and fourth run between my local store for some RO water! Ahhh, I am soooo excited!
 
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