getting very angry with my lfs

sparty059

sparty059

Active Member
Originally Posted by 2Quills
http:///forum/post/3292748
The stand dimensions for the length are shorter than your tank...is this because you are measuring the actual available space inside the stand? If so then yes, that's what we need to know to help.
Yes, this is the actual available size.
Originally Posted by 2Quills
http:///forum/post/3292748
I'll crunch some numbers and see what kind of design we can come up with that will work for what you have now. Don't worry, you haven't screwed yourself. Limited your options a little bit, but not screwed.

Originally Posted by 2Quills
http:///forum/post/3292748
Do you know what the size of the drain and return line is in your overflow?
I want to say the output (The O/F out) is 1.1"
The other input looks like it's possibly .75"? I can't measure it really but it's anywhere between .5" - .9" Def not 1" though.
 
posiden

posiden

Active Member
There's no reason you can't split your drain and add another tank to add in your sump/refug setup. Maybe move your return pump, and plumb the two tanks together and not have to split your drain line. Lots of options. Your just getting started IMO.
Pm's aren't allowed until your a member for 2 weeks IIRC.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Any pics of the new setup? What does the top of the stand look like? Is it open or closed off? This would be a big help in determining what can be fit inside the stand? Is the back of the stand open or closed as well?
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
How much of a DIY are you???? The front door section from my view could easily be removed with little work and could easily accept a 55 gallon tank.....Better yet, without disturbing the front of the stand the back support brace could easily be taken out and 55 gallon slid in on an angle and the moved around once in.....If you look at my build thread pics, the sump is huge and didn't just slide in, had to work it into place.....Once the sump is in place the supports can easily be put back.
But as stated earlier the 24 gallon can work, but you will surely find that it's not enough to handle what your wanting.....Ask a million questions before you part with your cash.....I like to test the LFS knowledge from time to time and so should you....
 
sparty059

sparty059

Active Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
http:///forum/post/3292767
Simply solution to your sump problem....take the supports in the back out, and slide as big a sump as you can afford in there and put the brace back into place....
I would. However, the person that built this (It was custom build by someone that had it before me) put nails deep into the studs. As you can see where the stud is, there is also another stud above it and one last one above that (They all cross at that main point. The nail is from what I can see, impossible to get out... It's nailed in a good 2/10th's of an inch in there. How the heck can I get that out? Not to mention I'd also have to get it out from the bottom too because I don't want to break anything.
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
http:///forum/post/3292769
How much of a DIY are you???? The front door section from my view could easily be removed with little work and could easily accept a 55 gallon tank.....Better yet, without disturbing the front of the stand the back support brace could easily be taken out and 55 gallon slid in on an angle and the moved around once in.....If you look at my build thread pics, the sump is huge and didn't just slide in, had to work it into place.....Once the sump is in place the supports can easily be put back.
But as stated earlier the 24 gallon can work, but you will surely find that it's not enough to handle what your wanting.....Ask a million questions before you part with your cash.....I like to test the LFS knowledge from time to time and so should you....
These are his workable dimension, Shawn.
125 Gallon - 5 1/2' (W) x 1 1/2' (D) x 2 1/2' (H)
Cabinet - 4' 1" (L) x 1' 4" (D) x 2' (T)
*Sump Tank* - 3' (W) x 1' (D) x 11" (H)
Skimmer - 1' x 8" Footprint 21" tall with 1/2" of additional room for removal of top.
Sparty, I've got a rough sketch drawn up for a design if you can't get a bigger tank. Don't mind the plumbing, it's just to give you an idea...i would use flexible pipe for your return line.
I.E. the skimmer section may have to be made shorter...do you know what the recommended water depth to run your skimmer is? Generally it's around 6-8 inches or so...but this differes between brands.
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
OK...now my hubby is laughing at me....that is AFTER he asked who the guy with the surfboard is

Cause he says the skimmer project was easy....lol....not in my eyes....if not for your guys instruction...and his handiwork...I'd be in trouble...
SPARTY.....listen to these guys
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by meowzer
http:///forum/post/3292776
OK...now my hubby is laughing at me....that is AFTER he asked who the guy with the surfboard is

Cause he says the skimmer project was easy....lol....not in my eyes....if not for your guys instruction...and his handiwork...I'd be in trouble...
SPARTY.....listen to these guys

Who...moi?
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Originally Posted by Sparty059
http:///forum/post/3292771
I would. However, the person that built this (It was custom build by someone that had it before me) put nails deep into the studs. As you can see where the stud is, there is also another stud above it and one last one above that (They all cross at that main point. The nail is from what I can see, impossible to get out... It's nailed in a good 2/10th's of an inch in there. How the heck can I get that out? Not to mention I'd also have to get it out from the bottom too because I don't want to break anything.
I took notice to the handy work on the stand in the 1 pic.....nice work, but don't honestly see where it adds any structurability to the stand at all those cross pieces, but.....The simple solution, nail or no nails it take the support out using a sawzall!!!!!!! New vertical support pieces can easily be put back in place!!!!!! Heck....I've gotten pissed at times and taken the chainsaw to stands, because of screw ups!!!!!!
 
sparty059

sparty059

Active Member
I'm in the process of tanking many many notes from all of these people! This is very helpful.
2Quills,
I don't have a clue to be honest. It doesn't say much about the information. I have the link to the skimmer I bought if this helps any...
http://www.google.com/products/catal...CEwQ8wIwCTgA#p
I can't find anything telling me the rec. water depth. Know where I can look?
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
http:///forum/post/3292784
I took notice to the handy work on the stand in the 1 pic.....nice work, but don't honestly see where it adds any structurability to the stand at all those cross pieces, but.....The simple solution, nail or no nails it take the support out using a sawzall!!!!!!! New vertical support pieces can easily be put back in place!!!!!! Heck....I've gotten pissed at times and taken the chainsaw to stands, because of screw ups!!!!!!

Makes a good point though. Sparty is your tank full right now or is it still empty? Because if it is empty then now is the time to make changes before you get started. A little bit of woodwork can go a long way.
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by Sparty059
http:///forum/post/3292787
I'm in the process of tanking many many notes from all of these people! This is very helpful.
2Quills,
I don't have a clue to be honest. It doesn't say much about the information. I have the link to the skimmer I bought if this helps any...
http://www.google.com/products/catal...CEwQ8wIwCTgA#p
I can't find anything telling me the rec. water depth. Know where I can look?
Have you tried to dry fit the skimmer and the tank under the stand already...will you have room to remove the cup once it's in the stand?
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
Originally Posted by 2Quills
http:///forum/post/3292790

Makes a good point though. Sparty is your tank full right now or is it still empty? Because if it is empty then now is the time to make changes before you get started. A little bit of woodwork can go a long way.
You mean the tank may still be empty...lol....Sparty.....you can still do soooo much
 
sparty059

sparty059

Active Member
Originally Posted by 2Quills
http:///forum/post/3292790

Makes a good point though. Sparty is your tank full right now or is it still empty? Because if it is empty then now is the time to make changes before you get started. A little bit of woodwork can go a long way.
Yeah, still empty. It's just a task to get off the cabinet also. But if you guys insist that I should break the backs get a bigger tank, and slip it in there....... then I guess I should. Will I ever have to take it out? What if I have to clean the tank(Sump)? I won't have any way to remove it...
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by Sparty059
http:///forum/post/3292795
Yeah, still empty. It's just a task to get off the cabinet also. But if you guys insist that I should break the backs get a bigger tank, and slip it in there....... then I guess I should. Will I ever have to take it out? What if I have to clean the tank(Sump)? I won't have any way to remove it...
You won't have to take it out to clean it up...the doors are big enough you can clean it by leaving it right under the stand. The fuge you want to get dirty anyway. As long as you can get the skimmer out to do maintenance than you're good.
 
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