Continued............
Over the 10 years we dealt with this species, we tried everything from placing two to six juveniles in a 55 gallon aquarium, to 25 (+ or -) juveniles in a 4' H x 4' W x 3' D holding tank, all at the same time we might add, and would always get varied results in behavior. Most often this is what would happen; everyone got along just fine with no problems at all; some bickering would take place for a day or two and then everybody would settle down; or one would dominate the group and bully everybody else relentlessly. If the bully scenario occurred we would remove this fish from the community. Following that, either; another Idol would take over as the bully; or they would all settled down and got along just fine. It seemed that no matter what size the tank, or how many fish were put together at any given time, we could not predict if there was going to be a problem or not. However, we noticed that aggressive behavior would diminish when plenty of hiding places and ample swimming room was provided. It is not wise to add another Idol to a group after the initial community has become established, as aggressive behavior increases greatly, like it does with most fish.
The best environment for this fish is to provide it with lots of swimming room to move around unobstructed, and plenty of cover and hiding places. Because it is a very easily frightened fish and rather unpredictable in its compatibility nature, these provisions are important. A minimum tank size of 100 gallons is recommended because of these traits, and of the fact that it can grow to quite a large size.
Diet
The Moorish Idol is an omnivore. Its preferred food sources are sponge, small crustacean and invertebrate life, and some marine algae. The Moorish Idol is a grazer and spends its day cruising and picking. Sometimes an individual may nip at large polyped stony corals and some types of soft coral polyps.
This fish should be fed several times a day, with a varied diet of finely chopped dried, fresh or frozen meaty fares such as shrimp, squid, clams, and live mysid shrimp or vitamin enriched brine shrimp, as well as vegetable matter suitable for herbivores. Because sponge is one of this fish's main natural food sources, provide prepared fares that include sponge in them.
In captivity we know that juveniles adapt much more quickly to eating tank fed fares than adult specimens do, as is with most fish. This makes the choice of a juvenile more desirable, but if you can find an adult specimen that is fat and sassy and already eating well before you buy it, the outlook for success is favorable. Providing a difficult feeder with an ample supply of live rock with a good growth of coraline algae and sponge growth can help it to survive captivity.
Notes From Your Guides
We give the Moorish Idol a Care Rating Level. It is NOT a fish for the beginner, but for an aquarist that is in the well advanced stages of the intermediate level of aquarium keeping, and only if it is a specimen in excellent health, and proper care and environmental conditions are provided for it!!! Aside from the usual things to look for when buying any fish, to help assist you in evaluating the health of a Moorish Idol, here are some specific things you need to observe:
* The body looks full and rounded out, not squeezed or dented inwards anywhere on the body, and its colors are bright and not faded out.
* You visually see for yourself that the fish is eating. Ask the fish store to feed it in your presence.
* The fins and tail are not frayed, ragged, or partially burnt off around the edges. This is most often a sign of previous exposure to ammonia burn, usually stemming from collection, shipping, poor environmental aquarium conditions, and/or improper care.
* The top streamer pennant is not missing. Again, this is most often a sign of previous exposure to ammonia burn, or unfavorable conditions and/or care. However, if the long white streamer pennant is missing, and instead you see a small white filamentous like growth starting to grow out of where the pennant used to be, this is a sign that the fish was exposed to unfavorable conditions at one time, but is recovering and gaining its health back. Refer to and look closely at the first two points of observation above to help guage if the fish's health is improving or not. It is best to even wait a week and check back to see if the filamentous streamer has grown longer, as this is a good sign of increased health.
Debbie & Stan Hauter
Your About Guides to Saltwater Aquariums
