I'm finally up and running!!!

marvelfan

marvelfan

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Icedtc http:///t/390857/im-finally-up-and-running/20#post_3464214
Sounds like you are getting things going now!
Just a quick question, why are you setting up a float switch on your return pump?
I foresee 2 possible flooding scenarios.
1. Power outage/Pump Failure - Sump overflows - I've taken care of this by making sure my sump can handle the amount of water left over in the overflow without flooding. I've also drilled a siphon break hole into the return line to the display tank. Tested and verified to work!
2. Overflow fails - Clog or loss of siphon resulting in sump return running dry and display tank overflowing.
The only solutions I can come up with is to either install a float switch hidden on the top back rim of the display tank that will trigger the pump to turn off in the event the water level is about to spill over the top. Another option would be to trigger it if the sump level reaches a low point where the return isn't refilling, but I would like to install a ATO later and want to keep the float switches segregated. One on the DT for the return pump and one in the sump for the ATO (to be installed at a later date).
Today I learned about 12V Relays and how to not fry your float valves!
I was looking into Aquarium controllers and optics as options, but I just don't want to spend that kind of money right now. I plan to install a controller about the time I'm starting to play around with adding corals. The reefkeeper is looking good. I think I'll splurge and go elite when the time comes. One of those things I can move to a larger tank in the future.
Hope that answers the question. If I had a drilled tank I wouldn't bother, but with the overflow and already having a flood occur once on the first night, I just want to ease my mind when I'm not home.
For now I have an aqua lifter installed up the overflow tube to ensure siphon is never lost. If it is, the vacuum will reestablish siphon while I'm away.
 
marvelfan

marvelfan

Member
I'm been searching through the forums looking for some specific cycling info.
My shrimp has been in the tanks for about 3 days now.
I just ran a test.
SG - 1.027
pH ~8.0
Ammonia ~1.0 ppm
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
My ammonia has slightly risen over the last day. I'm wondering how high I should let the ammonia level rise before I pull the shimp out.
I've read 5 ppm is the max I should allow, but some articles say 1 ppm.. yet others say leave the shrimp in until it disintegrates.
My tank is made up of 40 lbs of fully cured live rock from and existing established tank. I was hoping to not kill off too much of the rock while still raising ammonia to a proper level that the cycle can be competed properly.
What do you recommend?
 
reefkprz

reefkprz

Active Member
if your ammonia is .5 your fine to remove the shrimp. I wouldn't take the ammonia over 1.0 there isnt much point in going higher. its enough to get your bacteria growing and low enough in toxicity to let it happen faster. higher ammonia wont ,make your "cycle" better but it can slow down the growth of a couple of strains of bacteria that are used in the nitrogen cycle. the growth of the bacteria that breaks nitrite down to nitrate is slowed by high amounts of ammonia. so if your ammonia is too high you actually extend your cycle by not letting the bacteria develop untill there is enough bacteria to eliminate the ammonia below toxic levels. some will still decvelop but it'll happen faster with lower levels of ammonia.
also dosing with prime will detoxify the ammonia yet leave it bioavailable for the bacteria to break down, and render it harmless to the other forms of bacteria that are required for a complete nitrogen cycle.
 
marvelfan

marvelfan

Member
I wasn't aware of Prime. Something new to me. I'll look into it. I did an ammonia test this morning and it was still about 0.5 ppm. I was going to wait till 1 ppm before I take the shrimp out.
On a side note I built a hanger for my light and constructed a screen cover for the tank today. I think it turned out pretty good for about $15! I originally had the LED laying direcly on top of the tank, but I noticed 2 things. First, the light wasn't spreading enough. it was to concentrated on 2/3 of the tank. Raising it up about 3" spread the coverage to the whole tank.
Secondly, I could see the individual beams of light cutting the surface. (I think this noticable in a previous picture on the first page of this thread). Raising it got rid of this as well and made the tank appear more clear.

 
icedtc

icedtc

Member
Looking good so far. Good call with raising your lights like u did. I have my LEDs about 10" off the water level. Like you said, it allows for a greater light spread. Good luck with your initial cycle!
 
ekelly36

ekelly36

Member
With the overflow you are getting make sure you are flowing enough or you will have air bubbles build up in the tube and it will break syphon. I didnt have a big enough return pump for like a month and had to go suck the air out every day. I upgraded and now have no worries, the bubbles move so fast through there that they cant accumulate.
 
marvelfan

marvelfan

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by ekelly36 http:///t/390857/im-finally-up-and-running/40#post_3464814
With the overflow you are getting make sure you are flowing enough or you will have air bubbles build up in the tube and it will break syphon. I didnt have a big enough return pump for like a month and had to go suck the air out every day. I upgraded and now have no worries, the bubbles move so fast through there that they cant accumulate.
This was a concern of mine. I ended up installed ball valves on my return, overflow and back pressure drain from the return to the refugium. I have full control of the flow and levels. So far its working out well. I am noticing my water level is dropping pretty quickly in my return pump chamber of the sump. Last night I topped off my sump and checked my levels. I woke up this morning and it was down and inch or so. I have a hard time believing my evaporation is that quick (I'm not even running my lights), but I don't know where else it could go. I've marked my overflow level and sump levels with a marker.
I'll have to get my ATO up and running soon. My salinity hasn't changed..still ~1.027.
 
xandrew245x

xandrew245x

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarvelFan http:///t/390857/im-finally-up-and-running/40#post_3464839
This was a concern of mine. I ended up installed ball valves on my return, overflow and back pressure drain from the return to the refugium. I have full control of the flow and levels. So far its working out well. I am noticing my water level is dropping pretty quickly in my return pump chamber of the sump. Last night I topped off my sump and checked my levels. I woke up this morning and it was down and inch or so. I have a hard time believing my evaporation is that quick (I'm not even running my lights), but I don't know where else it could go. I've marked my overflow level and sump levels with a marker.
I'll have to get my ATO up and running soon. My salinity hasn't changed..still ~1.027.
Trust me....it happens that quick, mine would drops an inch overnight, and by the end of the day would be sucking air, I had to top off twice a day to keep it from happening. I have an ago now and problem solved, best investment ever.
 
reefkprz

reefkprz

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by xandrew245x http:///t/390857/im-finally-up-and-running/40#post_3464888
Trust me....it happens that quick, mine would drops an inch overnight, and by the end of the day would be sucking air, I had to top off twice a day to keep it from happening. I have an ago now and problem solved, best investment ever.
I agree, you have to look at your baffles. your only holding about a gallon and a half of water in the return pump area so your seeing all your evaporation in that one section of a small amount of water. if you evaporate 2 cups of water a day your going to see a drastic drop but in reality its not that much water to evaporate. the more air eposure you have the more evap your going to get as well. so having an open top and an open top sump is going to increase your evaporation by the amount of surface area. any drop over baffles is also going to add surface area for evaporation.
this is one reason I prefer my baffle less sumps.
 
marvelfan

marvelfan

Member
Yeah.. my ATO is next on the list of things to install. I have an 18 gallon container I can use, so that should give me some time between topping off my refill container.
I'm waiting for nitrites to show up now. My shrimp is still looking ok in the tank, its taking a while to decompose. My ammonia actually dropped to 0.25 last night from 0.5, but no nitrites. so i'm waiting for it to spike some more. Its only been about 5 or 6 days.
 
marvelfan

marvelfan

Member
Ok..so my shrimp went in the tank on Thursday night March 8th, I've been doing a test every night before bed to see if i'm starting to spike. My reading last night was strange:
Test Results




Test



3/8



3/9



3/10



3/11



3/12







Ammonia (ppm)



.5



.5



1



.25



0







Nitrite (ppm)



0



0



0



0



0







Nitrate (ppm)



0



0



0



0



0







pH (high end)



8.0



8.0



8.0



N/A



N/A



I'm looking forward to seeing my reading tonight. I just don't know how my ammonia dropped to 0 in 2 days, yet no nitrite or nitrates present. Tank is still crystal clear, no algae as of yet. Has anyone seen this happen before? I've only been doing top offs with RO/DI water the last couple days. I'm not running my lights at all beside over my sump (for my macro algae). Shrimp is still floating in the tank in a pair of pantyhose.
Also, I received my sump sponges, filter sock and ~12 oz chemi-pure elite this weekend. Should I wait till I'm finished cycling to place my filter sock and chemi-pure. Same with the sponges? Should I wait or does it really matter? Could it be beneficial to the cycle, or interfere in anyway?
Thanks!
 
reefkprz

reefkprz

Active Member
that would explain it. there is enougbh biological life on the rock to handle the shrimps pollution. including aerobic and anaerobic activity. your sand bed is probably still forming bacteria but your rock is all established. I would still run the shrimp for another week or so just to make sure it doesn't become more than the rock cna handle but i would say your probably in pretty good shape.
I woudl start your sponges immediately along with the filter sock.
the chemi pure i would wait untill your sure your cycle is established, cycles never complete, they balance and become established. the nitrogen cycle continues indefinitely.
as for not seeing any algae your probably wont see any of the "new tank" diatoms or other algaes until you start running your lights.
 
marvelfan

marvelfan

Member
Thanks for the analysis. I'll keep an eye on it.
I have a 10 gallon quarantine tank which I through some hitchhiker snails into. I put the 2 pieces of LR they were stuck on into the quarantine tank. Last night I did tests on both tanks.
The Main Tank rose to .25 ppm ammonia, 0 nitrite - I didn't check nitrate
My quarantine tank had 1.0 ppm ammonia and just a bit greater then 0 nitrite. I did a 50% water change to too bring it down and hopefully spare the snails.
Anything else you can think of. Maybe I should prime the QT?
 
marvelfan

marvelfan

Member
Also...
Now that I'm thinking about it.. Maybe I should relocate the snails and my other LR from the QT to the DT. As it seems that QT is cycling. Should I just let the QT run the cycle with the LR I have in there, or is it better to have no LR in a QT?
 
marvelfan

marvelfan

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by reefkprZ http:///t/390857/im-finally-up-and-running/40#post_3465136
that would explain it. there is enougbh biological life on the rock to handle the shrimps pollution. including aerobic and anaerobic activity. your sand bed is probably still forming bacteria but your rock is all established. I would still run the shrimp for another week or so just to make sure it doesn't become more than the rock cna handle but i would say your probably in pretty good shape.
I woudl start your sponges immediately along with the filter sock.
the chemi pure i would wait untill your sure your cycle is established, cycles never complete, they balance and become established. the nitrogen cycle continues indefinitely.
as for not seeing any algae your probably wont see any of the "new tank" diatoms or other algaes until you start running your lights.
Talked to a local fish guy on my lunch break and he said I may have gotten lucky in that my rock may already be established and that I may never see the spike i'm expecting. I'll keep watching it to make sure we are seeing 0's before I add anything. He did tell me that I may be better off putting the snails back into the DT since the QT seems less stable at this point.
Opinions?
 
bang guy

bang guy

Moderator
It's not uncommon for a tank with a good supply of live rock to never spike ammonia. If it were me I would begin ghost feeding for a few weeks to ensure the bacteria population thrives and matures.
 
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