Is this hobby always so frustrating?

bubblegurl

bubblegurl

Member
I wish I'd discovered this years ago, you started young!! I love my lfs, he's always got crazy new things, way beyond me but very cool stuff! I like feeling like a kid again....
Thanks for sharing your wisdom!
 
tur4k

tur4k

Member
I would be worried about phosphates with your previous overfeeding and no method of exporting them. Phosphates will contribute to algea growth, stunt coral growth and can even harm corals at high concentrations. You add at least some phosphates every time you feed. Some food has higher concentrations then others.
Toxins can be removed with carbon. Nitrates can be removed by skimming. Neither of these does much to combat phosphates. I use three methods to keep phosphates in check.
1. Regular water changes - Water changes help with a lot of problems. Phosphates included.
2. Macro Algeas - I keep a ball of Chaetomorpha in my refugium to absorb Phosphates and Nitrates.
3. Phosphate Absorbing Media - I use a Phosban Reactor to absorb Phosphates. Some people use phosphate sponges or bags that contain phosphate absorbing material like Chemipure Elite.
 
bubblegurl

bubblegurl

Member

I would be worried about phosphates with your previous overfeeding and no method of exporting them. Phosphates will contribute to algea growth, stunt coral growth and can even harm corals at high concentrations. You add at least some phosphates every time you feed. Some food has higher concentrations then others.

Toxins can be removed with carbon. Nitrates can be removed by skimming. Neither of these does much to combat phosphates. I use three methods to keep phosphates in check.

1. Regular water changes - Water changes help with a lot of problems. Phosphates included.
2. Macro Algeas - I keep a ball of Chaetomorpha in my refugium to absorb Phosphates and Nitrates.
3. Phosphate Absorbing Media - I use a Phosban Reactor to absorb Phosphates. Some people use phosphate sponges or bags that contain phosphate absorbing material like Chemipure Elite.
1. Have done 2 water changes in last 2 weeks, another one this week
2. We don't have a refugium set up
3. Will look into this option, where in the tank do these go?
 
tur4k

tur4k

Member
Phosban comes with a media bag. Chemipure Elite comes in a media bag. You can use either of these in area's of high flow. What kind of filtration are you using? You can toss a bag in a HOB filter if you use one, in a canister filter or between baffles in a sump.
I use a "Media Reactor" which is just a fancy word for a tube that hangs on the side of my sump and water is slowly pumped from the bottom to the top and back into the sump. The media is sandwitched between two sponges in the tube.
 
bubblegurl

bubblegurl

Member
Is a refugium or separate sump tank necessary? We do have a contained sump. I will continue to research the refugium and sump systems, I am curious if the lack of these systems is affecting the algae or not as its been stated on this thread as well as others that its something that needs to be cleaned almost daily. I am asking this question before researching...was just reading about algae scrubbers and the thread went over my head very quickly..... I read on another thread that someone had the algae issues for the first 2 years after starting their tank. I also think that before i go buy anything, I need to understand what is causing the algae, if the algae is using the phosphates and nitrates, then will test kits still pick these up and show the readings being higher or not? If not, is the algae just a sign of their presence? Like I said, the algae is not showing up on the rocks or sand, just on the glass.
Oh dear, tur4k, you've really confused me based on earlier posts.
Was going to stop at LFS on my way home, but think I'm gonna wait to see if anyone has some comments or ideas on these questions.
 
1guydude

1guydude

Well-Known Member
a contained sump? U mean a wet/dry filter correct? Wat do u have in it?
basically an algae turf scrubber is a screen with light on it...the water runs down the screen and all the algae grows on it to keep the algae from growing in ur tank. It eats all the nutrients so the algae in ur tank wont live and grow in ur DT.
If u are feeding flake foods than that may be the prob with ur algae...these foods break down in the water and dissolve...the algae than eats it up! This is a basic explanation.
 
bubblegurl

bubblegurl

Member
Ok yes we have a canister filter, running pre filters and carbon. Should stop asking questions when at work and cant think of proper terms....sorry. My new live rock now has some red coroline algae (sp) on it, that's new today and didn't have to clean glass tonight. We don't feed flakes or pellets, ended up with red slime, not sure if it was related. but seems like tank is on the right track now. If doing reg water changes, good cuc and new live rock setting up, I think we are back on track not sure if an algae scrubber is required right now. If we go another day with clear glass, will increase light time a bit. Just trying to understand the sump system and refugium, and if/when they are needed. Ultimately we would like a reef tank with compatible fish.
 
S

s4lt w4ter noob

Guest
That is exactly what kind of environment i am trying to create bubblegurl. My tank is about 6 weeks old and i got algae that is getting pretty crazy. I have a CUC that seem to be working hard but new additions might be needed to keep up with the growth. I also had some red slime/algae and bought a couple snails and they handled the job nicely.
I have 4 bulb T5's that i run for about 10 hrs a day (from 12pm to 10 pm). I believe the light also will add to the algae growth. I know your algae seem to be on the glass but mine is all over the rocks lol (complete opposite...go figure)What i try to do is scrub the front and sides of the glass every other day so the CUC focuses on the rocks instead of the glass and it seems to be paying off.
 
1guydude

1guydude

Well-Known Member
canister filters are okay imo...i have one. You have to make sure u do maintence on it though so it dosent become a nitrate factory. The low oxygen and darkness is a breeding ground for the nitrates. Make sure when u do water changes to rinse half the sponge material in the old water from the water change...also LR rubble or ceramic rings are a good thing to have in one of the compartments. Do u know wat brand it is? The carbon should be replaced every month or month and a half....if its chemi-pure id give it a good 2-3months. Also i buy new filter sponges about every 3months and replace half....kinda a lot of work in these canisters.
Sumps are just tanks below the tank that have sections for diff things...its basically a big filter where ur water is filtered and transfered back up to the DT.
You can keep equipment in it such as heaters and skimmers! Usually its a skimmer compartment, a refugium or turf scrubber, and the return section!
U can keep sponge material and carbon in between the compartments... the compartments are seperated with baffles.
 
bubblegurl

bubblegurl

Member
Others on this forum can def offer more insight than I can, we've been going for 5 months now so really new at this. When we first cycled our tank, the hair algae was pretty crazy too, we had 5 hermits and 5 turbo snails, did a black out on the tank for 4 days and that made a huge difference, clean up crew was able to manage the rest. I've learned that water flow is crucial to help prevent the red slime and pellets were we think contributing to this. We treated with chemiclean, did a large water change and sucked it out, no problem since. Best advice I can offer is research everything you do, what and when to add fish and corals - stick with this forum. Lots of questions you will have can be answered, read the 101 tips, will save you lots of heartache and cash. And take it slow. If you've read this entire thread, hopefully you can avoid what I did but everyone has been so helpful to get us thru it! Good luck!
 
snakeblitz33

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
The reason why canister filters can become "nitrate factories" is because they trap particulate organic matter and the bacteria break them down into nitrate/phosphate before they can reach your filter feeders and corals.
 
bubblegurl

bubblegurl

Member

canister filters are okay imo...i have one. You have to make sure u do maintence on it though so it dosent become a nitrate factory. The low oxygen and darkness is a breeding ground for the nitrates. Make sure when u do water changes to rinse half the sponge material in the old water from the water change...also LR rubble or ceramic rings are a good thing to have in one of the compartments. Do u know wat brand it is? The carbon should be replaced every month or month and a half....if its chemi-pure id give it a good 2-3months. Also i buy new filter sponges about every 3months and replace half....kinda a lot of work in these canisters.

Sumps are just tanks below the tank that have sections for diff things...its basically a big filter where ur water is filtered and transfered back up to the DT.
You can keep equipment in it such as heaters and skimmers! Usually its a skimmer compartment, a refugium or turf scrubber, and the return section!
U can keep sponge material and carbon in between the compartments... the compartments are seperated with baffles.
It's a fluval filter. We changed half the carbon and pre filters 2weeks ago, plan on doing it every month just for routine, haven't changed the sponges yet so will pick up some new ones. So basically the sump keeps equipment out of the tank, right now the skimmer takes up a huge amount of space and would like it out eventually....the canisters are a bit of work, but everything has been so far...lol. Thanks Dude this all helps! The tank looks really good today, my bubble looks pretty close to how he looked when I bought him and that's where this all started-the bubble coral....yay!
 
1guydude

1guydude

Well-Known Member
sumps also provide more water and more water means more of a comfort zone! Kinda like diluting the water...the word skips my mind right now!
 
bubblegurl

bubblegurl

Member
You guys are fast..lol. I realize sumps do more than hold equipment, just over simplified my statement....will set one up eventually
 
1guydude

1guydude

Well-Known Member
@snake
ya sry just trying to explain it so that bubblegurl understands....no offense girl!
101: basically the bacteria starts off with amnonia and the amnonia gets eatin and turned into trates, the trates are than turned into trites and so forth....
correct? phosphates and trates are also from fish poo! Only way of removing the trites are from skimming and w/c's
Glad to hear it Bgurl! 10min a day(most of the time more) and ur tank will be a beaut!
 
tur4k

tur4k

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1guyDude http:///t/387494/is-this-hobby-always-so-frustrating/120#post_3413861
@snake
ya sry just trying to explain it so that bubblegurl understands....no offense girl!
101: basically the bacteria starts off with amnonia and the amnonia gets eatin and turned into trates, the trates are than turned into trites and so forth....
correct? phosphates and trates are also from fish poo! Only way of removing the trites are from skimming and w/c's
Glad to hear it Bgurl! 10min a day(most of the time more) and ur tank will be a beaut!
Close. Ammonia gets converted to nitrites and the nitrites get converted to nitrates. Nitrates are a lot less toxic then the other two. Skimming and water changes remove nitrates, but are not the only method of removing them. Just the most common. DSB's and macro algae's are other common methods of combating nitrate build up.
I tend to overfeed to keep my Niger Trigger and Flame Hawk from eating my crustaceans. I run a skimmer (Precision Marine Bullet II), use macro algea (Chaetomorpha) and do regular water changes. I've never had a detectable level of ammonia, nitrites or nitrates in my tank. I believe skimming has the biggest impact on nitrates.
 
1guydude

1guydude

Well-Known Member
ya sry i always get something backwards! LOL
Ya i run a skimmer (CPR bakpak) and a fuge filled with cauplra(SP), im more of a monthly maybe w/c kinda guy lol....ive had no detectable levels either...
 
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