Katsafado's first ever 10g SW tank(nano)
- Thread starter katsafados
- Start date
katsafados
Active Member
/cYeah, it was the one that they told me wasnt photosynthetic. It was turning white before I moved it up top.
I think the light is to strong for the coraline. The top parts on the back seem to be bleaching, or that can be because of the W/C and the coraline being exposed to air.
I think the light is to strong for the coraline. The top parts on the back seem to be bleaching, or that can be because of the W/C and the coraline being exposed to air.
katsafados
Active Member
Whats that coral, a colt of kenya? And if its touching the monti will anything happen
katsafados
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by goobe http:///forum/thread/356965/katsafado-s-first-ever-10g-sw-tank-nano/4300#post_3346662
looks great man!
one sugestion is to dip all you SPS corals. the ones you gte at big als for sure. every one ive bought there has had red bugs
Yeah these sps were just a test to see if my pcs could grow them. Never relly thought they would survive, but then you msgd me about the MH lights lol..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gemmy http:///forum/thread/356965/katsafado-s-first-ever-10g-sw-tank-nano/4300#post_3346704
Everything looks great!
Thanks!
So funny story,
Lastnight me and my g.f were watching a movie and I had one eye on the tank. My largest clown started shooting across the tank and I thought it was wierd then he started shooting top to bottom and I was like damn I think shes going to jump, so as I thought this, doesnt the damn clown come flying towards the bed and my g.f.
yes the clown went hardwood floor surfing lol... good thing I was there and grabed a net quickly and threw him back. But when I threw him back in, I think he knocked himself out because we was floating head up to the top of the surface. Then I gave her acouple of flicks and she woke up and is swiming normally haha.
If she died, it would have been the 2nd clown I lost due to hardwood floor surfing!
P.S yes my g.f was terrified and jumped 15ft in the air, cuz she saw a random clownfish flying at her hahaha (it was pretty funny not going to lie)
Do you think the clown might have some sort of itch? It was scratching its side against rocks before it started darting everywhere. But I dont see any unusual spots on it. I also give it a bunch of vitmines and garlic when I feed them everyday.
Originally Posted by goobe http:///forum/thread/356965/katsafado-s-first-ever-10g-sw-tank-nano/4300#post_3346662
looks great man!
one sugestion is to dip all you SPS corals. the ones you gte at big als for sure. every one ive bought there has had red bugs
Yeah these sps were just a test to see if my pcs could grow them. Never relly thought they would survive, but then you msgd me about the MH lights lol..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gemmy http:///forum/thread/356965/katsafado-s-first-ever-10g-sw-tank-nano/4300#post_3346704
Everything looks great!
Thanks!
So funny story,
Lastnight me and my g.f were watching a movie and I had one eye on the tank. My largest clown started shooting across the tank and I thought it was wierd then he started shooting top to bottom and I was like damn I think shes going to jump, so as I thought this, doesnt the damn clown come flying towards the bed and my g.f.
yes the clown went hardwood floor surfing lol... good thing I was there and grabed a net quickly and threw him back. But when I threw him back in, I think he knocked himself out because we was floating head up to the top of the surface. Then I gave her acouple of flicks and she woke up and is swiming normally haha.
If she died, it would have been the 2nd clown I lost due to hardwood floor surfing!
P.S yes my g.f was terrified and jumped 15ft in the air, cuz she saw a random clownfish flying at her hahaha (it was pretty funny not going to lie)
Do you think the clown might have some sort of itch? It was scratching its side against rocks before it started darting everywhere. But I dont see any unusual spots on it. I also give it a bunch of vitmines and garlic when I feed them everyday.
katsafados
Active Member
Bump
katsafados
Active Member
Yeah it was pretty funny lol. Thanks! Like the sps corals?
nissan577
Active Member
tha
Quote:
Originally Posted by Katsafados http:///forum/thread/356965/katsafado-s-first-ever-10g-sw-tank-nano/4300#post_3347310
Yeah it was pretty funny lol. Thanks! Like the sps corals?
the one you got?! hells yea bro. you know if you ever want sps i got you
j
Quote:
Originally Posted by Katsafados http:///forum/thread/356965/katsafado-s-first-ever-10g-sw-tank-nano/4300#post_3347310
Yeah it was pretty funny lol. Thanks! Like the sps corals?
the one you got?! hells yea bro. you know if you ever want sps i got you
j
katsafados
Active Member
haha your to far we already tried!
So I thought I would test my water quality since I havent in a while
ammonia - 0ppm
Nitrite - 0ppm
Nitrate - 0ppm
pH - 7.8ppm
Phosphate - 0ppm
KH - 161.1ppm
Calcium - 540ppm - way to high isnt it?
ALK - Very low, almost nothing - how do I raise it?
Salinity - 1.028 - little high
R/O - 2ppm
Anything I need to raise or lower, especially for the sps?
The monti is showing soem fast growth, and im unsure about the chalice growth.
So I thought I would test my water quality since I havent in a while
ammonia - 0ppm
Nitrite - 0ppm
Nitrate - 0ppm
pH - 7.8ppm
Phosphate - 0ppm
KH - 161.1ppm
Calcium - 540ppm - way to high isnt it?
ALK - Very low, almost nothing - how do I raise it?
Salinity - 1.028 - little high
R/O - 2ppm
Anything I need to raise or lower, especially for the sps?
The monti is showing soem fast growth, and im unsure about the chalice growth.
meowzer
Moderator
Alkalinity
Like calcium, many corals also use "alkalinity" to form their skeletons, which are composed primarily of calcium carbonate. It is generally believed that corals take up bicarbonate, convert it into carbonate, and then use that carbonate to form calcium carbonate skeletons. That conversion process is shown as:
HCO3[sup]- ? CO3[sup]-- + H[sup]+
Bicarbonate ? Carbonate + acid
To ensure that corals have an adequate supply of bicarbonate for calcification, aquarists could very well just measure bicarbonate directly. Designing a test kit for bicarbonate, however, is somewhat more complicated than for alkalinity. Consequently, the use of alkalinity as a surrogate measure for bicarbonate is deeply entrenched in the reef aquarium hobby.
So, what is alkalinity? Alkalinity in a marine aquarium is simply a measure of the amount of acid (H[sup]+[/sup]) required to reduce the pH to about 4.5, where all bicarbonate is converted into carbonic acid as follows:
HCO3-[/sup] + H+[/sup] ? H[sub]2[/sub]CO3
In normal seawater or marine aquarium water, the bicarbonate greatly dominates all other ions that contribute to alkalinity, so knowing the amount of H+[/sup] needed to reduce the pH to 4.5 is akin to knowing how much bicarbonate is present. Aquarists have therefore found it convenient to use alkalinity as a surrogate measure for bicarbonate.
One important caveat to this surrogate measure is that some artificial seawater mixes, such as Seachem salt, contain elevated concentrations of borate. While borate is natural at low levels, and does contribute to pH stability, too much interferes with the normal relationship between bicarbonate and alkalinity, and aquaria using those mixes must take this difference into account when determining the appropriate alkalinity level.
Unlike the calcium concentration, it is widely believed that certain organisms calcify more quickly at alkalinity levels higher than those in normal seawater. This result has also been demonstrated in the scientific literature, which has shown that adding bicarbonate to seawater increases the rate of calcification in Porites porites.[sup]4 In this case, doubling the bicarbonate concentration resulted in a doubling of the calcification rate. Uptake of bicarbonate can apparently become rate limiting in many corals.5[/sup] This may be partly due to the fact that both photosynthesis and calcification are competing for bicarbonate, and that the external bicarbonate concentration is not large to begin with (relative to, for example, the calcium concentration).
For these reasons, alkalinity maintenance is a critical aspect of coral reef aquarium husbandry. In the absence of supplementation, alkalinity will rapidly drop as corals use up much of what is present in seawater. Most reef aquarists try to maintain alkalinity at levels at or slightly above those of normal seawater, although exactly what levels different aquarists target depend a bit on the goals of their aquaria. Those wanting the most rapid skeletal growth, for example, often push alkalinity to higher levels. I suggest that aquarists maintain alkalinity between about 2.5 and 4 meq/L (7-11 dKH, 125-200 ppm CaCO3 equivalents), although higher levels are acceptable as long as they do not depress the calcium level.
Alkalinity levels above those in natural seawater increase the abiotic (nonbiological) precipitation of calcium carbonate on objects such as heaters and pump impellers. This precipitation not only wastes calcium and alkalinity that aquarists are carefully adding, but it also increases equipment maintenance requirements. When elevated alkalinity is driving this precipitation, it can also depress the calcium level. A raised alkalinity level can therefore create undesirable consequences.
I suggest that aquarists use a balanced calcium and alkalinity additive system of some sort for routine maintenance. The most popular of these balanced methods include limewater (kalkwasser), calcium carbonate/carbon dioxide reactors, and the two-part additive systems.
For rapid alkalinity corrections, aquarists can simply use baking soda or washing soda to good effect.
Like calcium, many corals also use "alkalinity" to form their skeletons, which are composed primarily of calcium carbonate. It is generally believed that corals take up bicarbonate, convert it into carbonate, and then use that carbonate to form calcium carbonate skeletons. That conversion process is shown as:
HCO3[sup]- ? CO3[sup]-- + H[sup]+
Bicarbonate ? Carbonate + acid
To ensure that corals have an adequate supply of bicarbonate for calcification, aquarists could very well just measure bicarbonate directly. Designing a test kit for bicarbonate, however, is somewhat more complicated than for alkalinity. Consequently, the use of alkalinity as a surrogate measure for bicarbonate is deeply entrenched in the reef aquarium hobby.
So, what is alkalinity? Alkalinity in a marine aquarium is simply a measure of the amount of acid (H[sup]+[/sup]) required to reduce the pH to about 4.5, where all bicarbonate is converted into carbonic acid as follows:
HCO3-[/sup] + H+[/sup] ? H[sub]2[/sub]CO3
In normal seawater or marine aquarium water, the bicarbonate greatly dominates all other ions that contribute to alkalinity, so knowing the amount of H+[/sup] needed to reduce the pH to 4.5 is akin to knowing how much bicarbonate is present. Aquarists have therefore found it convenient to use alkalinity as a surrogate measure for bicarbonate.
One important caveat to this surrogate measure is that some artificial seawater mixes, such as Seachem salt, contain elevated concentrations of borate. While borate is natural at low levels, and does contribute to pH stability, too much interferes with the normal relationship between bicarbonate and alkalinity, and aquaria using those mixes must take this difference into account when determining the appropriate alkalinity level.
Unlike the calcium concentration, it is widely believed that certain organisms calcify more quickly at alkalinity levels higher than those in normal seawater. This result has also been demonstrated in the scientific literature, which has shown that adding bicarbonate to seawater increases the rate of calcification in Porites porites.[sup]4 In this case, doubling the bicarbonate concentration resulted in a doubling of the calcification rate. Uptake of bicarbonate can apparently become rate limiting in many corals.5[/sup] This may be partly due to the fact that both photosynthesis and calcification are competing for bicarbonate, and that the external bicarbonate concentration is not large to begin with (relative to, for example, the calcium concentration).
For these reasons, alkalinity maintenance is a critical aspect of coral reef aquarium husbandry. In the absence of supplementation, alkalinity will rapidly drop as corals use up much of what is present in seawater. Most reef aquarists try to maintain alkalinity at levels at or slightly above those of normal seawater, although exactly what levels different aquarists target depend a bit on the goals of their aquaria. Those wanting the most rapid skeletal growth, for example, often push alkalinity to higher levels. I suggest that aquarists maintain alkalinity between about 2.5 and 4 meq/L (7-11 dKH, 125-200 ppm CaCO3 equivalents), although higher levels are acceptable as long as they do not depress the calcium level.
Alkalinity levels above those in natural seawater increase the abiotic (nonbiological) precipitation of calcium carbonate on objects such as heaters and pump impellers. This precipitation not only wastes calcium and alkalinity that aquarists are carefully adding, but it also increases equipment maintenance requirements. When elevated alkalinity is driving this precipitation, it can also depress the calcium level. A raised alkalinity level can therefore create undesirable consequences.
I suggest that aquarists use a balanced calcium and alkalinity additive system of some sort for routine maintenance. The most popular of these balanced methods include limewater (kalkwasser), calcium carbonate/carbon dioxide reactors, and the two-part additive systems.
For rapid alkalinity corrections, aquarists can simply use baking soda or washing soda to good effect.
katsafados
Active Member
Says calcium and alk go hand in hand, why is my calcium way to high and my alk untracable then? Could possibly the test kit chemical going bad? Ive had it for over a year now.
To raise the alk I have to mix baking soda into the water? Doesnt say at what concentration the baking soda solution should be at. Or do I just add a little test, add a little more test, ect.
Also the test kit said I had no phosphates and nitrates, but I have a nice amount of hair algae growing in the fuge, and some regular glass algae growing in the DT. If those levels are zero shouldnt there be no algae?
To raise the alk I have to mix baking soda into the water? Doesnt say at what concentration the baking soda solution should be at. Or do I just add a little test, add a little more test, ect.
Also the test kit said I had no phosphates and nitrates, but I have a nice amount of hair algae growing in the fuge, and some regular glass algae growing in the DT. If those levels are zero shouldnt there be no algae?
meowzer
Moderator
Aren't you going to school to be a marine biologist...LOL
try this
http://reef.diesyst.com/chemcalc/chemcalc.html
try this
http://reef.diesyst.com/chemcalc/chemcalc.html
katsafados
Active Member
NOOO lol
Majoring in biology, taking a virology, microbiology stream lol.
Majoring in biology, taking a virology, microbiology stream lol.
meowzer
Moderator
Quote:
Originally Posted by nissan577 http:///forum/thread/356965/katsafado-s-first-ever-10g-sw-tank-nano/4320#post_3348959
im marine bio :/ thanks mom lol
Hey am I supposed to remember everything GEESH
Originally Posted by nissan577 http:///forum/thread/356965/katsafado-s-first-ever-10g-sw-tank-nano/4320#post_3348959
im marine bio :/ thanks mom lol
Hey am I supposed to remember everything GEESH
katsafados
Active Member
TISK TISK, we are your sons you should remember!
So I bought what I think is a purple acro, the LFS dude called it a molose or something like that. I also bought lugo's, so I'm dipping it right now.
So I bought what I think is a purple acro, the LFS dude called it a molose or something like that. I also bought lugo's, so I'm dipping it right now.