LARGE Plywood Tank Build
- Thread starter bronco300
- Start date
groupergenius
Active Member
Originally Posted by Bronco300
http:///forum/post/2599393
hahahahaha, what are you trying to say, this is boring?!
dont need anything unless you want to pull more epoxy or a canopy out of your sleeve for me,lol
actually running out of hardener, so I had to order more today, should have it friday...
Not so much boring, we are literally watching glue (epoxy) dry.
http:///forum/post/2599393
hahahahaha, what are you trying to say, this is boring?!
dont need anything unless you want to pull more epoxy or a canopy out of your sleeve for me,lol
actually running out of hardener, so I had to order more today, should have it friday...
Not so much boring, we are literally watching glue (epoxy) dry.
groupergenius
Active Member
Originally Posted by Bronco300
http:///forum/post/2600534
what will it matter? it'll be in the garage
Canopy no, But what about something, ie. eggcrate, to keep jumpers in the tank?
http:///forum/post/2600534
what will it matter? it'll be in the garage
Canopy no, But what about something, ie. eggcrate, to keep jumpers in the tank?
aquaknight
Active Member
Bronco, whenever you have some free time, waiting for the epoxy to dry or whatever, if you were doing the tank at 120"(l)x48"(d)x30"(h) what would you change about the construction? Same build plywood tank for in-wall with a front view panel. Maybe not including a wavebox? Or perhaps doing two, one on each end? Do you think switching to two smaller glass panels instead of one gigantic piece? Would two panels make construction, easier/harder? Three top braces instead of two? 4"x4" instead of 2"x2" for the corners? etc... Whenever you feel like getting around to the question, just running plans through my head...
bronco300
Active Member
Nothing really would change thus far...you'd still need two pieces of plywood for the bottom and back...so honestly i think i'd probably keep it the same..the reason i did one wavebox was because i want a slow motion...i really dislike the waveboxes on youtube that are moving 2" up and down within a few seconds.....so i personally would still keep just one...but i would make sure to epoxy BEFORE putting it on the tank...stupid me stupid.
For the glass i think it'd be much harder and uglier....you'd have to throw and extra brace in the front to make sure you dont have a weak spot there in the middle...and then throw another brace on top...I think i'd hate the look because it'd look like two tanks and the reason i made it 132 was because i wanted a 10' tank..not two 5'...thats just my preference though...i'd be scared about it structurally more with two paces then one...but i think you could probably do it...just may be harder...and then maybe the 4x4s on the from panel would be nice for the corners...but otherwise i think you could still do 2x2 everywhere.
But you probably want to start with the viewing pane you'd like, and build from there......so with 30" tall, if you went 4x4 making we'll say 5.5" appox on the 45deg...so you're look at 11" away from the front...letting you have a piece of glass that is 19" tall...18" to make sure you have room...then you want at least a 2" seal( or i do) so you'd have a viewing pane of 16" tall...and the length would be 104" or so...if i figured correctly....like with mine the tank without wavebox is around 124"...i had to go with 118x24 to just get the piece in...so my viewing area will only be about 114x20...so depends on what you want there...but the most important thing is the epoxy...because thats what will make the tank so strong...the wood is more just a frame for the epoxy(of course you want to use quality wood, not just the cheap stuff--but thats the cheapest part of building this!haha)....thats my opinion
For the glass i think it'd be much harder and uglier....you'd have to throw and extra brace in the front to make sure you dont have a weak spot there in the middle...and then throw another brace on top...I think i'd hate the look because it'd look like two tanks and the reason i made it 132 was because i wanted a 10' tank..not two 5'...thats just my preference though...i'd be scared about it structurally more with two paces then one...but i think you could probably do it...just may be harder...and then maybe the 4x4s on the from panel would be nice for the corners...but otherwise i think you could still do 2x2 everywhere.
But you probably want to start with the viewing pane you'd like, and build from there......so with 30" tall, if you went 4x4 making we'll say 5.5" appox on the 45deg...so you're look at 11" away from the front...letting you have a piece of glass that is 19" tall...18" to make sure you have room...then you want at least a 2" seal( or i do) so you'd have a viewing pane of 16" tall...and the length would be 104" or so...if i figured correctly....like with mine the tank without wavebox is around 124"...i had to go with 118x24 to just get the piece in...so my viewing area will only be about 114x20...so depends on what you want there...but the most important thing is the epoxy...because thats what will make the tank so strong...the wood is more just a frame for the epoxy(of course you want to use quality wood, not just the cheap stuff--but thats the cheapest part of building this!haha)....thats my opinion
aquaknight
Active Member
Well, I was just figuring based on the previous comments about worry from the glass bowing out. And with anymore additional depth, if a single glass panel as doable with the added pressure? Or really, does depth not add a lot more pressure?
The tank would be at least 120"x48" internally, adding to total length for any waveboxes. The plan for the tank would be a 'shark reef.' So the height of the tank is still undetermined, but figuring 30" would be a number. That probably wouldn't be a bad idea for the 4"x4"s in the corners and 2"x2" running the lengths.
I had forgot your tank is 30" tall, thought it was 24" for some reason. It seems like just adding more width maybe not be too much of a change. Maybe just upping the size of the Eurobrace and center braces, with 4"x4"s in the corners, would suffice?
The tank would be at least 120"x48" internally, adding to total length for any waveboxes. The plan for the tank would be a 'shark reef.' So the height of the tank is still undetermined, but figuring 30" would be a number. That probably wouldn't be a bad idea for the 4"x4"s in the corners and 2"x2" running the lengths.
I had forgot your tank is 30" tall, thought it was 24" for some reason. It seems like just adding more width maybe not be too much of a change. Maybe just upping the size of the Eurobrace and center braces, with 4"x4"s in the corners, would suffice?
brandan
Member
Originally Posted by AquaKnight
http:///forum/post/2600952
Well, I was just figuring based on the previous comments about worry from the glass bowing out. And with anymore additional depth, if a single glass panel as doable with the added pressure? Or really, does depth not add a lot more pressure?
The tank would be at least 120"x48" internally, adding to total length for any waveboxes. The plan for the tank would be a 'shark reef.' So the height of the tank is still undetermined, but figuring 30" would be a number. That probably wouldn't be a be idea for the 4"x4"s in the corners and 2"x2" running the lengths.
I had forgot your tank is 30" tall, thought it was 24" for some reason. It seems like just adding more width maybe not be too much of a change. Maybe just upping the size of the Eurobrace and center braces, with 4"x4"s in the corners, would suffice?
One pane or two, you still have "X" amount of pressure pushing outward on the same exact amount of surface area. You would be surprised how strong glass is. Go get a 3/4" piece of glass and see how hard it is to break. The weakest point of any tank is the seam. A lot of people use molded holding tanks for liquids (water, fuels, oils, ect.) because there are no seams in the tank. The more seams in the tank, the more places things can go wrong. If you can eliminate a seam by using one pane of glass in the front, do it. Go butt join two pieces of wood together with glue. Wait overnight for it to dry, then break it in the morning. Note where it breaks (the butt joint).
Bottom line, use as many whole piece of material as possible.
http:///forum/post/2600952
Well, I was just figuring based on the previous comments about worry from the glass bowing out. And with anymore additional depth, if a single glass panel as doable with the added pressure? Or really, does depth not add a lot more pressure?
The tank would be at least 120"x48" internally, adding to total length for any waveboxes. The plan for the tank would be a 'shark reef.' So the height of the tank is still undetermined, but figuring 30" would be a number. That probably wouldn't be a be idea for the 4"x4"s in the corners and 2"x2" running the lengths.
I had forgot your tank is 30" tall, thought it was 24" for some reason. It seems like just adding more width maybe not be too much of a change. Maybe just upping the size of the Eurobrace and center braces, with 4"x4"s in the corners, would suffice?
One pane or two, you still have "X" amount of pressure pushing outward on the same exact amount of surface area. You would be surprised how strong glass is. Go get a 3/4" piece of glass and see how hard it is to break. The weakest point of any tank is the seam. A lot of people use molded holding tanks for liquids (water, fuels, oils, ect.) because there are no seams in the tank. The more seams in the tank, the more places things can go wrong. If you can eliminate a seam by using one pane of glass in the front, do it. Go butt join two pieces of wood together with glue. Wait overnight for it to dry, then break it in the morning. Note where it breaks (the butt joint).
Bottom line, use as many whole piece of material as possible.
bronco300
Active Member
from what i've heard its the height of glass that makes the most difference, not the length...forget who mentioned it...but i'm not worried about it bowing..it may some but i'm not worried...the epoxy is very rigid when done and with the wood frame is very strong, even mroe so with the large glass...but like mentioned, id be more worried about the extra seam.
aquaknight
Active Member
That makes a lot of sense. I had just figured a 5' pane of glass could take more of a load then a 10' piece, but I think you're correct in that you probably couldn't build the surrounding tank stronger then the glass.
One more question and I'll be out of your hair
. I noticed all of your drain/return holes (in the sketches at least) are near the edge of the panel. Any reason for this? Would putting a hole in the center or towards the center more, weakness the panel? They're also all on the back panel. Would you not recommend drilling the bottom of a tank like this?
One more question and I'll be out of your hair
bronco300
Active Member
haha, dont worry about it, ask all the questions you want!!!
as far as i'm aware you can drill anywhere...i am putting them places where i can hopefully keep them hidden...and i believe i'll be putting all my holes on the bottom, drains incuded....since my front pieces is taller than what my sand will be i can have my plumbing at the front bottom and still not be viewable from the outside unless way up close and looking down...the others i'll put along the back so i get a nice circulation and then the drains in the middle most likely....as long as your bottom is supported it should be ok...i mean think about mine...i have a GIANT beast of a metal stand that will have a piece of plywood over...even with all the water pressure, where does it have to go with the beast right there below it?...so as long as everything is sealed correctly you should be fine...the important thing about the epoxy i think is doing several smaller coats, that way any bubbles that occur, or bugs that get in there can be covered again and made strong...and then i like the fiberglass in the corners for even more support....if you end up doing this and go with the 2x2 in some corners...i have some extra fiberglass cloth if interested in the kind i have.
as far as i'm aware you can drill anywhere...i am putting them places where i can hopefully keep them hidden...and i believe i'll be putting all my holes on the bottom, drains incuded....since my front pieces is taller than what my sand will be i can have my plumbing at the front bottom and still not be viewable from the outside unless way up close and looking down...the others i'll put along the back so i get a nice circulation and then the drains in the middle most likely....as long as your bottom is supported it should be ok...i mean think about mine...i have a GIANT beast of a metal stand that will have a piece of plywood over...even with all the water pressure, where does it have to go with the beast right there below it?...so as long as everything is sealed correctly you should be fine...the important thing about the epoxy i think is doing several smaller coats, that way any bubbles that occur, or bugs that get in there can be covered again and made strong...and then i like the fiberglass in the corners for even more support....if you end up doing this and go with the 2x2 in some corners...i have some extra fiberglass cloth if interested in the kind i have.
aquaknight
Active Member
Great! That sparked another question. If you have a drain on the bottom on the tank what are planning to use to cover the drain to prevent fish and sand from being sucked down in there?
Oh, and the other question how did you rip the 2"x2"s in half?
Oh, and the other question how did you rip the 2"x2"s in half?
bronco300
Active Member
i'll be using a plastic drain plate most likely...those round plates you see in the ground, but out of PVC to cap the drain off...or maybe just a strainer...whichever ends up working best
as for the 2x2, i used a table saw and made the blade 45deg...easiest way to do it.
as for the 2x2, i used a table saw and made the blade 45deg...easiest way to do it.
aquaknight
Active Member
Ah! I guess the table saw would work lol (pending table saws come out 4"?).
Alright on the plastic drains. Not sure if that would best idea for my particular plans, with sharks and rays always cruising the bottom, but something like that on the back, but low and incorporated into something like a foam back wall would work.
Thanks for all your help Bronco, definitely helped me lay some plans out. I guess the next step is contacting the home builder to see if the poured foundation will support 1000gal of water lol.
Any updates or progress btw on your tank?
Alright on the plastic drains. Not sure if that would best idea for my particular plans, with sharks and rays always cruising the bottom, but something like that on the back, but low and incorporated into something like a foam back wall would work.
Thanks for all your help Bronco, definitely helped me lay some plans out. I guess the next step is contacting the home builder to see if the poured foundation will support 1000gal of water lol.
Any updates or progress btw on your tank?
bronco300
Active Member
4" would be quite a bit...but you would have a guard rail to slide the 4x4 along...so if you went through one side...then turned it over and went again it'd basically be the same thing....the drains i will have will come up further from the bottom quite a bit and get closer to the top, but in the bottom so the rock can hide it mostly.
right now no updates, it got a lot colder so the epoxy time lengthened...waiting for some in the wavebox to harden so i can take it down and finish the rest THIS WEEK!!!!!!
right now no updates, it got a lot colder so the epoxy time lengthened...waiting for some in the wavebox to harden so i can take it down and finish the rest THIS WEEK!!!!!!
corallover23
Member
more pics more pics
