Meowzer's LED build

meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///t/387353/meowzers-led-build/680#post_3448157
I was reading and LED thread today and similar symptoms on another build and turned out to be a soldering issue!!!!
????? A soldering issue with what? Everything has been tested.....and re-tested...what else would we check?
What can you tell me about the controller and the ELN????? I was under the original impression from our pms that it would work.....now Corey says it won't......I have e-mailed the controller people...BUT I do need to know....LOL
 
btldreef

btldreef

Moderator
I'm typing for my husband while his hands are in the tank:
You can run the HLG and the ELN together on the same controller, but separate channels and have the ELN timed opposite of the actual time you want it to run. For example, for moonlighting in the programming on the controller, have it turn OFF on the time you actually want it to come on and visa versa.
EX: moonlights on at 10PM off at 7AM
tell the controller on the channel that the ELN is on to Start Time 7AM and End Time 10PM
This is because the HLG drivers run opposite dimming polarity from the ELN drivers.
Channel 1 is setup for HLG daylights
Channel 2 is setup for HLG blue lighting
Channel 3 could be your moonlights.
 
btldreef

btldreef

Moderator
Mark's looking into it, I can only write out so much for him, this is Greek to me.
It might be the difference between us having the P model and you having a D. If that's what it is, I'll mail you a P, I have 6 sitting next to my desk as I type this right now, LOL
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by meowzer http:///t/387353/meowzers-led-build/680#post_3448146
REALLY!!!.... so I should not hook the moonlights up to the controller????
We did get a new POT also.....should we just change that? What do you mean power supply???
Driver = Power Supply.
I'm simply saying that the driver you have for your moonlights (ELN 60-48D) were designed to run on 1-10v d.c. for their dimming. The Typhon led controler utilizes pwm (pulse width modulation) for dimming. The ELN 60-48P's are the ones designed to run pwm dimming. People have run a pwm controller on the 48D's before but I don't believe your leds will run to spec if you do.
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
OK....Corey...Now that makes more sense.....LOL....Can I use a P driver with my set up?
IF SO.......BTLD.....I will talk to you more about it
 
mr btldreef

mr btldreef

Member
okay sorry.....
i have a programmer for the controller i had sent you and i had programmed it for a reverse pwm signal so that it will work with your hlg drivers correctly in the correct time and fade format.
i did not realize you had an eln 60-48D... i thought you had an eln 60-48p.
therefore...i am just going to send you one of my extra eln 60-48p driver.
now.... since the polarity is changed... your hlg drivers will work normal. the eln will have to be programmed in opposite time format but will work perfectly.
if you want for now leave the eln off of the controller circuit. you don't need to dim moonlights. i would just have them turn on via tank controller or regular timer. this controller is more for time/fade/dim for your main lighting which are your hlg drivers.
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
Mark...I am not able to use my moonlights right now anyway......I am almost sure the driver I have them on is no good.....We are actually going to take it off and send it back to where I got it
OK...SO....Tomorrow if we hook up our 2 HLG drivers to the controller.....do I have to do anything kookie??? LOL
SO...the 48P will work fine with my set up? AND if I wanted to.....can it be hooked up to the controller later?
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by meowzer http:///t/387353/meowzers-led-build/700#post_3448171
OK....Corey...Now that makes more sense.....LOL....Can I use a P driver with my set up?
IF SO.......BTLD.....I will talk to you more about it
Yep, the P will work perfectly. Just thought I should mention about the difference to help avoid future complications like we had with the first batch of drivers. Your HLG's will work with 1-10v or PWM signal. So that's all you need to adapt to the new controller is to swap out that 48D with a P or something else compatible.
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
OK...LOL...I just received a response from the controller people.....they say you can use the 48D..BUT the controller will not dim it...it will only turn it on and off
as I said before....MY ELN does not seem to work anyway
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///t/387353/meowzers-led-build/700#post_3448177
Yep, the P will work perfectly. Just thought I should mention about the difference to help avoid future complications like we had with the first batch of drivers. Your HLG's will work with 1-10v or PWM signal. So that's all you need to adapt to the new controller is to swap out that 48D with a P or something else compatible.
Thanks....that is what we will do then
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
Thank you everyone
and thanks to Mr and Mrs Btldreef....LOL...now I am getting a ELN-60-48P HAHA......and I am sending this D back.....We will probably take it off tomorrow when we hook up the controller for the other lights
 
mr btldreef

mr btldreef

Member
well... screw it i am sending you eln60-48p ... you know why cause i can that's why.
did you guys wire up the power for the controller? if so i recommend doing that. the reason.... so you can get familiar with the controller and buttons.
quick tour of buttons.
first button left to right
1 menu = navigates through channels/start/end/fade/max dimming
2 menu down or back
3 + to increase time/fade/max press and hold and it will fly through the numbers
4 - to decrease time/fade/max press and hold and it will fly through the numbers
channel 1 is on the bottom right output pins
as you go up the pins you move up to the next channel.
start= time starts to turn on ... hlg driver runs at increments of 10% so it will start at the time you select at 10%
end = time it has faded down to 10%
fade = the time duration it takes for to fade up and down during the start and end times.
max = when finally finished ramping / dimming this value is held for majority of the photo period
thats all i can think of right now.
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
Thanks guys.....we plan on doing this project tomorrow.....stay by your computer BAHAHAHA
p.s.......I also sleep LATE
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
NOTE: NEVER enclose wires so you can't get to them

This is a major learning lesson.....The section we left open for the power center is great...BUT.....we did not leave access to the other ends of the light where the pots are wired, and can not get to underneath sections and so forth....so we are cutting into the mid section, and going to have to re-do it a bit, We already drilled 2 access holes at each end of the light on the top.....we had bought a 5" hole saw and made the access with that.....we also bought knobs...lol....so we can lift up all these lids....
This just means this job is going to take MUCH LONGER
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by meowzer http:///t/387353/meowzers-led-build/700#post_3448275
NOTE: NEVER enclose wires so you can't get to them

This is a major learning lesson.....The section we left open for the power center is great...BUT.....we did not leave access to the other ends of the light where the pots are wired, and can not get to underneath sections and so forth....so we are cutting into the mid section, and going to have to re-do it a bit, We already drilled 2 access holes at each end of the light on the top.....we had bought a 5" hole saw and made the access with that.....we also bought knobs...lol....so we can lift up all these lids....
This just means this job is going to take MUCH LONGER
Ouchy. This harkens me back to our discussion of using hinges for the top. Sounds like you've got a good modification figured out.
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///t/387353/meowzers-led-build/700#post_3448311
Ouchy. This harkens me back to our discussion of using hinges for the top. Sounds like you've got a good modification figured out.
LOL...Well.....we got everything just about re-done and the controller is close to being hooked up
WISH ME LUCK.....the programming is my department
 
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