more fragging fun

autofreak44

autofreak44

Active Member
Originally Posted by reefkprZ
Gloves: they are powder free <(super important) latex, you can also use powder free vinyl gloves. as long as they are powder free your pretty much ok to use them. I prefer the latex as they fit better but I occasionally use vinyl when the store I'm in doesnt have latex. I also use a rubber band at the wrist to keep the back of the glove close so I can reach into the tank or buckket without filling the glove with water.
what if you wash all the powder out before you use them? i have a billion of these powdered laytex gloves but no 'powder free' gloves
 
reefkprz

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by autofreak44
what if you wash all the powder out before you use them? i have a billion of these powdered laytex gloves but no 'powder free' gloves


....... hmm......... I suppose you could. but i wouldnt risk it. better safe than sorry IMO.
 
reefkprz

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by spanko
A question about a toadstool leather. In one of the posts you mentioned getting a part of the base with the pc. you are fragging. Is this necessary? The head of this toadstool is quite large and I am wondering if I can just cut off a slice of the outer edge.
Base meaning The part where no polyps stick out, part of the head is base flesh, especially at the outer edge. cutting a piece off the outer edge is all I ever do. base flesh is just the underside, thats all.
And yes for most fraggings I use plain old krazy glue gel that you can buy anywhere (not for leathers though it doesnt hold them)
 
reefkprz

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by saltn00b
would you do ricordia the same way as these other shrooms?
almost everytime i have attempted the sand technique, all i got is the mushy webbing from the disintegrating shroom. i was under the impression that the bowl i used with a bridal netting over it caused a lack of flow, leading to their demise. yet you seem to use a very tall HOB type of container? a few holes in it, and hanging on the rim of the tank? what say you?
sure you could, I use a specemin container like they use at pet stores for bagging fish with some holes drilled in it and sand in the bottom. for sand tecnique style attachmentsa on ricordea and shrooms, you could also use a guppy breeder container just remove the v bottom and add rubble and sand. those come pre slitted, no drilling involved.
 
reefkprz

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by Kilhullen
Not anywhere near this stage, but I have been reading about it. Since my first attempts when it is time will be tenative and slow, how long can the corals survive outside the water while you are cutting etc.?
totally depends on the coral, most can handle 15-20 minutes easy, if they start looking dry dunk them or set a paper towel thats wet with tank water over it. things like gorgonian you want to expidite the process and be quick as they dont tolerate prolonged exposure to air very well. but with zoas, snrooms ric, leathers, dont feel rushed, take your time, make a clean cut to speed healing. you can always dunk them to keep them moist if you have to just have a container opf water right on your workspace to utilize for this purpose. you should also rinse off frags before returning them to the main tank, to remove any nematocysts that have been triggered dure to handleing or to rinse off any excess. toxins released.
 
kilhullen

kilhullen

Member
Originally Posted by reefkprZ
totally depends on the coral, most can handle 15-20 minutes easy, if they start looking dry dunk them or set a paper towel thats wet with tank water over it. things like gorgonian you want to expidite the process and be quick as they dont tolerate prolonged exposure to air very well. but with zoas, snrooms ric, leathers, dont feel rushed, take your time, make a clean cut to speed healing. you can always dunk them to keep them moist if you have to just have a container opf water right on your workspace to utilize for this purpose. you should also rinse off frags before returning them to the main tank, to remove any nematocysts that have been triggered dure to handleing or to rinse off any excess. toxins released.
Great info! Thank you. I have been trying to understand this process!
 
autofreak44

autofreak44

Active Member
Originally Posted by reefkprZ
....... hmm......... I suppose you could. but i wouldnt risk it. better safe than sorry IMO.
alright thanks
 
rbrockm1

rbrockm1

Active Member
how long can i keep the coral out of water while i wait for the glue to dry? Also do i glue the part that i cut?
 
reefkprz

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by forcrz6
NICE!!!
Maybe you can help me How to you frag a toadstool?
Page 1 post number 32, has pictures and instructions.
 
reefkprz

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by rbrockm1
how long can i keep the coral out of water while i wait for the glue to dry? Also do i glue the part that i cut?
You want to avoid glueing the cut itself to allow the flesh to get flow so it can heal. the time can depend on the coral but if your worried about it drying out just wet a piece of paper towel with tank water and drape it over the coral.
 
reefkprz

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by ric maniac
open green its wellsophylia
I have yet to frag one of those.
But I would assume it would be similar to others of that body style, tile saw or jewlers blade would probably be the safest route. razor blading and or breaking just wouldnt work, too much damage to the soft flesh.
 
kilhullen

kilhullen

Member
Originally Posted by reefkprZ
this is going to take a couple posts, please be patient while I rename and resize the rest of the pics,
changed my mind and did a finger leather that I found under a rock that I didn't know I had, ainsted of a toadstool leather same pricipal though, cut with razor, rubber band to rock.
OK, I don't understand this yet, so sorry for the stupid qustion...
This finger leather (for example) is "tall and branching" but it seems like you have it rubberbanded down flat to the rock. Why didn't you superglue it or put it in some sand to attach itself then superglue it? How/When do you take off the rubberband?
Is there a book, or something I can read that will help me understand what to do when?
 
B

brstwv

Guest
I believe the cells attached to the superglue from the leather can possibly shed then the leather would be floating around the tank. From what I've read it's easier to just rubber band for a week then the leather will attach itself to the surface.
 
reefkprz

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by brstwv
I believe the cells attached to the superglue from the leather can possibly shed then the leather would be floating around the tank. From what I've read it's easier to just rubber band for a week then the leather will attach itself to the surface.
thats exactly what happens. leathers slime so the glue may not adhere if it does the cells its attached to die off and the leather lets go, rubberbanding or the dish method work best with leathers as they attach rather quickly.
 
B

brstwv

Guest
Hey reefkprZ, I picked that bit of info from one of your threads. ReefkprZ not to sidetrack thread, but seeing you have a lot of experience with corals. I was wondering how long can it take zoas to open after 2 day shipping ? There all still closed but at night when the moonlights are on there colors are glowing.
 
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