my house build thread

chilwil84

Active Member
elevations? other than sea level ? have had a few bacardis tonight so might be missing somethin. the front yard was mostly pine trees with the back having all the nicer oak trees. i had to clear a lot of the fron for the septic but i am gonna replant some of the front with some hardwood trees. i love going into the pines hunting for reptiles and fishing but dont like them in my yard.
 

wangotango

Active Member
Originally Posted by chilwil84
http:///forum/post/2721625
elevations? other than sea level ? have had a few bacardis tonight so might be missing somethin. the front yard was mostly pine trees with the back having all the nicer oak trees. i had to clear a lot of the fron for the septic but i am gonna replant some of the front with some hardwood trees. i love going into the pines hunting for reptiles and fishing but dont like them in my yard.
Sorry, elevations; pictures that the architect drew up of what the house will look like from different sides.
-Justin
 

chilwil84

Active Member
living and building near the coast elevation above sea level is always a big concern so i guess that is why my head tracked that way. i designed the house myself and made my own plans so i dont have the disk that most architects would give that i could easily put up pics of the front, side and rear elevations. its gonna be a capecod style house with 2 dormers on the front, but the back is gonna look like a normal colonial with full 8foot back walls, sometims refered to as a full dormer. it will also have a single car garage attatched to it.
found a picture close to it. the main difference will be the back roof line doesnt go down to the first floor it is much shallower pitch giving full headroom in the upstairs back of the house
 

chilwil84

Active Member
few pics from today got most of the first floor landing done, i just gotta put on a few metal straps before i put on the last 2' wide strip of plywood.


 

veni vidi vici

Active Member
Originally Posted by chilwil84
http:///forum/post/2719965
picks from today
Nice cold joint on the garage wall,I would keep an eye on that.How come you didnt go with an I Beam instead of the glue lam?
Oh yeah ,i must say that a nice looking lot you have there.
 

chilwil84

Active Member
august pour with about 10 minutes between trucks most of it has bleached out with the sun and its got verticle and horizontal rebar in the walls so shoud be no problem. still better than a block seam and its tared because its an exterior wall (in codebook theory) even though its under the garage. a steal i beam would have been overkill cause i would still need lolly columns under the stairs so it would have just been more work drilling and attatching plates to it. we use the steal i beams with lvl set inside them on many of the modern style houses we build on LBI they are nice but a lot more pricey, even the recycled from old building ones.
 

veni vidi vici

Active Member
Originally Posted by chilwil84
http:///forum/post/2722682
august pour with about 10 minutes between trucks most of it has bleached out with the sun and its got verticle and horizontal rebar in the walls so shoud be no problem. still better than a block seam and its tared because its an exterior wall (in codebook theory) even though its under the garage. a steal i beam would have been overkill cause i would still need lolly columns under the stairs so it would have just been more work drilling and attatching plates to it. we use the steal i beams with lvl set inside them on many of the modern style houses we build on LBI they are nice but a lot more pricey, even the recycled from old building ones.
Its cool how different parts of the country frame and build differently.Here concrete is the only thing we use but if you go over into Indiana they use a lot of block .Here we also drop the I beam down in the beam pocket 1-12" and plate the top.We just glue it and bend nails over the side of the beam.The only time we use LVLs ,glue lams..... are in short span situations.What part of the country do you live in?
 

chilwil84

Active Member
south jersey close to the coast (about a mile from the bay). i had to put 1/2 bolts every 30" on the poured walls to bolt all the plates to then use a simpson butterfly (up force) tie down to hook every exterior joice down to the plate. than all roofrafters have to have the same tiedowns. the stuff i have to do on lbi is ridiculous because everything (just about) has to be on pilings for flooding than has to hold up th 165 mph sustained winds. its the same code as florida but we have to start 4-10 feet up for flooding so everything is conventional built with tons of metal strapping and 3" nails to hold the plywood on the house on top of it all.
 

chilwil84

Active Member
we put the lvs in the i beam so we can hide them in the ceilings and use hangers to hang the floor/ceiling joists depending what floor your on off of them
 

veni vidi vici

Active Member
Originally Posted by chilwil84
http:///forum/post/2722727
south jersey close to the coast (about a mile from the bay). i had to put 1/2 bolts every 30" on the poured walls to bolt all the plates to then use a simpson butterfly (up force) tie down to hook every exterior joice down to the plate. than all roofrafters have to have the same tiedowns. the stuff i have to do on lbi is ridiculous because everything (just about) has to be on pilings for flooding than has to hold up th 165 mph sustained winds. its the same code as florida but we have to start 4-10 feet up for flooding so everything is conventional built with tons of metal strapping and 3" nails to hold the plywood on the house on top of it all.
There is nothing worse than having to install hurricane clips and metal straps Unless you have a teco gun,but the new code says as you have stated 3"nails must be used.Personally i think its way overkill because the shear strength is the same for a 16 penny nail and a joist hanger nail.We have to do the same here but for tornadoes not hurricanes.
 

chilwil84

Active Member
we still get to use the 1 1/2 in joist tails for the strapping just the plywood needs the 3" when near the ocean(every 4"). we have a hitachi that shoots the nails in one shot but its dangerous if your not perfectll in the hole it reflects the nail and the angle nails on the hagers get their heads clipped off at times by the metal edge. i like the palm nailer myself, much safer and gets in real small places
 

chilwil84

Active Member
Originally Posted by T316
http:///forum/post/2726840
Man you keep a tidy site....

Mine didn't look anything like that.

my boss's influence. we build custom houses where the homeowners are down everyweekend, and the architects are there every couple days.
 

chilwil84

Active Member
gotta go back to paid work the rest of the week but got another course of plywood on and the ******** layout mostly done(kinda designing some of it as i go)



 

dogfaceman

Member
ive built three houses, when I was building the house would always go from looking really small with just foundation, then when they start framing it seems so much bigger. Is this your first house? Also dont ever pay anything up front to framers, cabinet makers (unless you do home depot
) etc. Some are crooks, ive lost over 65k to framers and cabinet makers who just stop showing up one day, and legally its extremely tough to get your money back. your house is looking good though. county will usually find something stupid to make you fix before you can move in
 
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