coral keeper
Active Member
Its lookin good!
my house build thread
- Thread starter chilwil84
- Start date
chilwil84
Active Member
Originally Posted by dogfaceman
http:///forum/post/2728086
ive built three houses, when I was building the house would always go from looking really small with just foundation, then when they start framing it seems so much bigger. Is this your first house? Also dont ever pay anything up front to framers, cabinet makers (unless you do home depot
) etc. Some are crooks, ive lost over 65k to framers and cabinet makers who just stop showing up one day, and legally its extremely tough to get your money back. your house is looking good though. county will usually find something stupid to make you fix before you can move in
this is my 1st personal house, i have built many with the company i work for on LBI. no contractor should ever be given more than 50% up front, than have certain completion conditions for additional payments, and in nj the general contractor cant get the final payment until a C.O. is issued.
thanks everybody.
http:///forum/post/2728086
ive built three houses, when I was building the house would always go from looking really small with just foundation, then when they start framing it seems so much bigger. Is this your first house? Also dont ever pay anything up front to framers, cabinet makers (unless you do home depot
this is my 1st personal house, i have built many with the company i work for on LBI. no contractor should ever be given more than 50% up front, than have certain completion conditions for additional payments, and in nj the general contractor cant get the final payment until a C.O. is issued.
thanks everybody.
dogfaceman
Member
Originally Posted by chilwil84
http:///forum/post/2728348
this is my 1st personal house, i have built many with the company i work for on LBI. no contractor should ever be given more than 50% up front, than have certain completion conditions for additional payments, and in nj the general contractor cant get the final payment until a C.O. is issued.
thanks everybody.
do you have a contractor? ive always built without one.
http:///forum/post/2728348
this is my 1st personal house, i have built many with the company i work for on LBI. no contractor should ever be given more than 50% up front, than have certain completion conditions for additional payments, and in nj the general contractor cant get the final payment until a C.O. is issued.
thanks everybody.
do you have a contractor? ive always built without one.
jennythebugg
Active Member
Originally Posted by chilwil84
http:///forum/post/2728348
general contractor cant get the final payment until a C.O. is issued.
thanks everybody.
im ignorant whats a C.O.?
http:///forum/post/2728348
general contractor cant get the final payment until a C.O. is issued.
thanks everybody.
im ignorant whats a C.O.?
chilwil84
Active Member
i am the contractor. the reason for hiring one for most people is if a sub contractor skips out the general contractor is responsible not the homeowner. they are also responsible for having someone there for all inspections. they also know how to get all the final details done that take a homeowner a year or two after to get done when not used (ie all knick, scratches, finishing door sills, all paint overspray on window edges, etc.
C.O. certificate of occupancy, it alllows you to move in and says all requirements of your town are met.
C.O. certificate of occupancy, it alllows you to move in and says all requirements of your town are met.
dogfaceman
Member
Originally Posted by chilwil84
http:///forum/post/2728893
i am the contractor. the reason for hiring one for most people is if a sub contractor skips out the general contractor is responsible not the homeowner. they are also responsible for having someone there for all inspections. they also know how to get all the final details done that take a homeowner a year or two after to get done when not used (ie all knick, scratches, finishing door sills, all paint overspray on window edges, etc.
C.O. certificate of occupancy, it alllows you to move in and says all requirements of your town are met.
yeah and where i live, they are super picky about everything, in the house im currently in, they wouldnt let me move in because i didnt have my slope planted
they probably thought i was building a spec house
, anyways building a house is fun and rewarding, especially because i did alot of work myself to save some cash ( like put in baseboard, and to install the hardwood floor, or staining cabinets, and heres a big money saver PAINTING), just out of curiosity how many square feet is your house? not including the garage, mines 4200 if your wondering. oh and after you move in you will always want to change something or you will be missing something (even in my most recent house we forgot to put a phone line next to the bed area of the master bedroom)
http:///forum/post/2728893
i am the contractor. the reason for hiring one for most people is if a sub contractor skips out the general contractor is responsible not the homeowner. they are also responsible for having someone there for all inspections. they also know how to get all the final details done that take a homeowner a year or two after to get done when not used (ie all knick, scratches, finishing door sills, all paint overspray on window edges, etc.
C.O. certificate of occupancy, it alllows you to move in and says all requirements of your town are met.
yeah and where i live, they are super picky about everything, in the house im currently in, they wouldnt let me move in because i didnt have my slope planted
chilwil84
Active Member
only finishing the 1st floor to start and thats 1200 sqrft, i am leaving the other 1200 upstair unfinished for now along with the basement unfinished(not including the garage). i dont have kids so 2 bedrooms and a full bath will get me by for now and i will finish the upstairs later(and an unfinshed basement for fish tanks and equipment for the upstairs tank doesnt bother me). there is no use in paying some of the highest property taxes in the country for house i dont need yet (and will finish without letting the town know when i do it). i will probably have to build my 2 car detached garage legally in a year or so, but the one car attached will work for my girls car for now.
chilwil84
Active Member
the only thing i am not doing (besides pouring the basement walls) is the electrical (exchanging work to offset some of the costs)making the cabinets, and installing the shingles because i dont feel like spending a lot of time on a 12 pitch roof(if it was an 8 or less i would have done it myself).
dogfaceman
Member
are you worried about those trees falling towards your house?
chilwil84
Active Member
there is always that chance especially since many of them have never been in the open before , but the groundwater is pretty low so they have some deep roots(how i justify it to myself) but i did cut down any that were leaning towards the house. all of the one surrounding it wouldnt need a directional wedge cut in them to make them fall away from the house.
U
usirchchris
Guest
Originally Posted by Veni Vidi Vici
http:///forum/post/2722702
Its cool how different parts of the country frame and build differently.Here concrete is the only thing we use but if you go over into Indiana they use a lot of block .Here we also drop the I beam down in the beam pocket 1-12" and plate the top.We just glue it and bend nails over the side of the beam.The only time we use LVLs ,glue lams..... are in short span situations.What part of the country do you live in?
+1 The first thing that caught my eye was the 2x floor joists, and actual plywood for the subfloor, that's old school around these parts. (Not bad, just what the typically older builders use). Around here we only use engineered floor joists...a little more upfront, but you save on the labor, and plywood OMG it would cost you more than double than if you just used 3/4 T&G osb. Around here the building styles differ greatly in just a 15 min drive
. FJ studs used north...go 15 minutes south, and they hardly know what you are talking about.
http:///forum/post/2722702
Its cool how different parts of the country frame and build differently.Here concrete is the only thing we use but if you go over into Indiana they use a lot of block .Here we also drop the I beam down in the beam pocket 1-12" and plate the top.We just glue it and bend nails over the side of the beam.The only time we use LVLs ,glue lams..... are in short span situations.What part of the country do you live in?
+1 The first thing that caught my eye was the 2x floor joists, and actual plywood for the subfloor, that's old school around these parts. (Not bad, just what the typically older builders use). Around here we only use engineered floor joists...a little more upfront, but you save on the labor, and plywood OMG it would cost you more than double than if you just used 3/4 T&G osb. Around here the building styles differ greatly in just a 15 min drive
chilwil84
Active Member
osb costs more in ohio, it costs a third here(we use 1 1/8 osb to match the structure of 3/4 regular plywood), but i would never use it on a floor because if it is exposed to any water laying on it it bubbles chuncks out of it. its the first time i used it for walls and i cant believe how soft it is. i had to turn down my compresor to 90lbs from 120 so the nails didnt blow almost through, but for 7 bucks a sheet instead of 18 range i had to try it(i am still cutting the splinters out). the doubles are for the stair tower and the fish tank(gotta think ahead). i didnt mind the standard lumber because i was able to adjust the layout so that i didnt have to cut any floor joists to length. i thought about using the tgi (the i beam engineerd joists) but they would have been a couple grand more for the house.
U
usirchchris
Guest
Originally Posted by chilwil84
http:///forum/post/2731435
osb costs more in ohio, it costs a third here(we use 1 1/8 osb to match the structure of 3/4 regular plywood), but i would never use it on a floor because if it is exposed to any water laying on it it bubbles chuncks out of it. its the first time i used it for walls and i cant believe how soft it is. i had to turn down my compresor to 90lbs from 120 so the nails didnt blow almost through, but for 7 bucks a sheet instead of 18 range i had to try it(i am still cutting the splinters out). the doubles are for the stair tower and the fish tank(gotta think ahead). i didnt mind the standard lumber because i was able to adjust the layout so that i didnt have to cut any floor joists to length. i thought about using the tgi (the i beam engineerd joists) but they would have been a couple grand more for the house.
Generally if you can get the house dried in within a few weeks you won't see any swelling on the osb...minimal sanding at any rate if needed at all. On our walls and roofs 7/16 osb is used everywhere. Some will sometimes use actual 1/2" on the roof, but this is rare. Price wise right now around my parts you can get 3/4 T&G osb for around 9-11 a sheet. Where as cdx plywood 3/4 is around 19-24 per sheet. The really cheap builders around here will use blackboard on the walls with 7/16 on the corners.
http:///forum/post/2731435
osb costs more in ohio, it costs a third here(we use 1 1/8 osb to match the structure of 3/4 regular plywood), but i would never use it on a floor because if it is exposed to any water laying on it it bubbles chuncks out of it. its the first time i used it for walls and i cant believe how soft it is. i had to turn down my compresor to 90lbs from 120 so the nails didnt blow almost through, but for 7 bucks a sheet instead of 18 range i had to try it(i am still cutting the splinters out). the doubles are for the stair tower and the fish tank(gotta think ahead). i didnt mind the standard lumber because i was able to adjust the layout so that i didnt have to cut any floor joists to length. i thought about using the tgi (the i beam engineerd joists) but they would have been a couple grand more for the house.
Generally if you can get the house dried in within a few weeks you won't see any swelling on the osb...minimal sanding at any rate if needed at all. On our walls and roofs 7/16 osb is used everywhere. Some will sometimes use actual 1/2" on the roof, but this is rare. Price wise right now around my parts you can get 3/4 T&G osb for around 9-11 a sheet. Where as cdx plywood 3/4 is around 19-24 per sheet. The really cheap builders around here will use blackboard on the walls with 7/16 on the corners.
jennythebugg
Active Member
piiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiics !
mimzy
Active Member
Originally Posted by jennythebugg
http:///forum/post/2731789
piiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiics !
here here, I agree!! We are disgustingly bereft of photographs!
http:///forum/post/2731789
piiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiics !
here here, I agree!! We are disgustingly bereft of photographs!
chilwil84
Active Member
been working on the ******** walls today (was back to regular pay construction all week) i will try to get some pics that show the walls but hard to make it look right(might have to stand on the top of the outside wall)
development houses get covered up quickly so having it on the floor usually doesnt become a problem but for me doing this on the weekends mine is prob gonna get wet. you can always tell a house with osb on the roof in the wintertime because it tends to sag a little inbetween the rafters. havent been able to use blackboard around here since the 80s.
development houses get covered up quickly so having it on the floor usually doesnt become a problem but for me doing this on the weekends mine is prob gonna get wet. you can always tell a house with osb on the roof in the wintertime because it tends to sag a little inbetween the rafters. havent been able to use blackboard around here since the 80s.
