Neptunes 125 Reef Diary.

posiden

Active Member
Rough it up, maybe add a layer or two but.....You have a new tank. You aren't going to get the big explosion of growth or even the nasty black oil slick stuff. I don't think you will see much more then that. I mean it wil cover the screen and you will grow algae, it will just take a little longer.
Also, don't judge the scrubber by how much it grows. I have a 29 gallon tank and I have never got anything to write home about. Barley half a hand full is the most I ever got off mine. And now that it has been going almost a year I don't really get much off of it at all. Plus the light setup will make them run a little different. You have a lot more light then me. You will grow a different type of algae. Time will tell as to what yours is going to grow.
Having said that I don't feed the extremly large amounts of food, and I don't feed phyto every day. I only feed phyto....well, when I fell the need. At most twice a month. Even then it is a tiny amount.
 

king_neptune

Active Member
I was kinda thinking along the same lines. Basicly when I put this picture up for santimonica I mentioned that the bio load was very light for a tank my size and the amount of LR/LS/Bristle worms I got probably do alot of work, and the scrubber can only eat whats left over.
But over all I feel that I should rough it up more next time I take it out.
=================================
First casulty today. My lawnmore blenny that I have been asking about the last couple days, died finally. he hasnt been eating for two weeks. Best Ive seen was a tiny nibble of something I practicly spot fed him. he ahd an over abundance of several algae(short and long), mysis shrimp, rods food and salmon eggs. He was danger thin two days ago, and finaly starved last night.
Ill try again with a different kind of blenny, and hopefully have him trained to eat prepared foods by the time he comes out of QT.
 

king_neptune

Active Member
Poor Scooter, RIP


And some shots of my scrubber out of the tank and prepping for cleaning.
Side A:

Side B:

As an experiment I roughed up one side really good. The other side I left the same. Well see in two weeks the difference it makes. And if its still not enough, ill add another layer of screen to thicken it up a bit.
 

king_neptune

Active Member
Well I'm seeing the results of my experiment.
By completely removing the algae off the scrubber(and the rest of the tank) I now have minute detectable levels of Trites/Trates .5/.1 very faint and hard to tell, but they are there.This is a miniscule amount, and I directly blame cleaning both sides of the scrubber and all the algae.
However I did a full battery of tests, hear are the results:
Ammonia= 0
Nitrite= .5
Nitrate= .1
PH= 8.2
Iodine= 0
Alkalinity meq/L= 4 <--this is a drop, it was 4.5 for a while, any concern?)
Calcium= 450
Silicates= 8 <-- is this cause for concern?
Phosphates= 0
Over all I'm pleased with the results, any comments? Do you agree that I am seeing the direct result of my scrubber experiment?
Oh and I dosed with some purpleup calcium iodine additive. Don't know why I have good calcium levels, but no iodine...or maybe that's a good thing.
 

altrocker

Member
I've been reading through your thread, awesome set up! I'm always looking for new ways to mod my tank/sump. I have a 60 gal right now and looking to upgrade my skimmer, and maybe revamp my sump a little. Anyway, I was looking at your water parameters and you'll need to dose your tank with iodine when you add corals, it's a trace element needed by most of them. Oh, and I'm a big fan of Olympus cameras, I have an Olympus stylus 1030 SW, it's water, shock, freeze, and crush proof, and a great little camera for the money. I don't know if you dive or anything, but i love it for shallow reef dives.
 

king_neptune

Active Member
Originally Posted by AltRocker
http:///forum/post/3133882
I was looking at your water parameters and you'll need to dose your tank with iodine when you add corals, it's a trace element needed by most of them. Oh, and I'm a big fan of Olympus cameras, I have an Olympus stylus 1030 SW, it's water, shock, freeze, and crush proof, and a great little camera for the money. I don't know if you dive or anything, but i love it for shallow reef dives.

Yes, thanks for noticing. I put in some Purple up yesterday morning. It has a two part dosing, iodine and calcium supplement.What level should I shoot for? My calcium is 450 so that's cool. But I don't know what iodine should be since this is my first system. How long does it take to get the water at good levels?
Olympus is a great brand. I always thought of underwater cameras as out of my league. Ill look into them, maybe they are affordable now.
Thanks fer the tips.And thanks for following my thread.
 

spanko

Active Member
Ammonia (NH3-4)
Natural Seawater Value: 0.010 mg/L
Acceptable Range: 0.000 to 0.050 mg/L
Any ammonia level above 0.05 mg/L is a cause for
concern, and the source should be found and corrected.
Nitrite (NO2)
Natural Seawater Value: 0.010 mg/L
Acceptable Range: 0.000 to 0.100 mg/L
Levels of 0.05 or less are
of little concern. If the levels are higher than this, the source should be found
and corrected.
Nitrate (NO3)
Natural Seawater Value: 0.050 mg/L
Acceptable Range: 0.000 to 25 mg/L
Nitrate is not toxic in and of itself, but a rising level is
indicative of deteriorating water conditions, and any level above 5.0 mg/L in
reef aquariums is a reason for concern.
Phosphate (PO4)
Natural Seawater Value: 0.030 mg/L
Acceptable Range: 0.000 to 0.250 mg/L
The use of a phosphate absorbing resin is recommended to keep phosphate
levels below 0.05 mg/L.
Silica (Sio2-3)
Natural Seawater Value: 0.040 mg/L
Acceptable Range: 0.000 to 0.500 mg/L
Any level above 0.3 mg/L may cause a diatom bloom in
the aquarium.
Potassium (K)
Natural Seawater Value: 390 mg/L
Acceptable Range: 350 to 450 mg/L
Potassium is an important constituent of seawater, being found in
almost the same concentration as calcium. Potassium is important for
neurological functions in fishes, as well as being a critical plant nutrient
required by zooxanthellae and macro algae.
Calcium (Ca)
Natural Seawater Value: 400 mg/L
Acceptable Range: 350 to 450 mg/L
Calcium is a critical parameter for coral growth in reef aquariums, and
chronically low levels will cause coral mortality and loss of coralline algae and other invertebrate species.
Boron (B)
Natural Seawater Value: 4.6 mg/L
Acceptable Range: 3.0 &#8211; 6.0 mg/L
Boron is a
significant portion of your aquarium pH and water buffering capacity, and is
crucial to maintaining appropriate calcium levels, as well as being essential to
several biological processes, including macro algae growth.
Molybdenum (Mo)
Natural Seawater Value: 0.01 mg/L
Acceptable Range: 0.0 to 0.12 mg/L
Molybdenum is important to microbial activity in
the aquarium filter, and may also be important to stony coral health and
reproduction.
Strontium (Sr)
Natural Seawater Value: 8.1 mg/L
Acceptable Range: 5.0 to 12.0 mg/L
Strontium is
important to coral growth, as they incorporate strontium ions into their
skeletal mass, particularly SPS corals. It is also important to coralline algae
growth.
Magnesium (Mg)
Natural Seawater Value: 1280 mg/L
Acceptable Range: 1100 to 1400 mg/L
Magnesium is a very important part of the water buffering system, and is
incorporated into coral skeletons. It is also critical to any photosynthetic
processes.
Iodine (I&#175;)
Natural Seawater Value: 0.060 mg/L
Acceptable Range: 0.030 to 0.090 mg/L
Please be advised that many iodine supplements are difficult to dose
br />accurately, and &#8220;above normal&#8221; readings are easy to achieve with common
iodine additives.
Copper (Cu++)
Natural Seawater Value: 0.030 mg/L
Acceptable Range: 0.000 to 0.030 mg/L
Copper is fatal to marine invertebrates at levels as
low as 0.05 mg/L for many species.
Alkalinity (meq/L)
Natural Seawater Value: 2.5 meq/L
Acceptable Range: 2.5 to 5.0 meq/L
Maintaining an appropriate alkalinity is crucial to maintaining a
healthy aquarium. A fluctuating alkalinity will lead to serious problems in
maintaining an appropriate pH, as well as problems keeping calcium and
magnesium levels within required ranges.
 

king_neptune

Active Member
my trites and trates bumped up a little last week.
.1 and .5
that could be due to a couple things. But most likely it was the fact I cleaned both sides down to nothing, as the bump came about 2 days later.
But otherwise ive got nothing to complain about. In fact if this keeps up, that skimmer i have on emergency standby...im just going to pawn it off on Craigs list in the comming months.I wont till Ive got my fish bioload "Heavy", as it is extremly light ATM.
I was very tempted to activate my carbon/GFO reactor(because I wanted that pristine crystal water), but I held off, and now it looks like I was right...the water cleared up within days of me removing my filter sock, and it gets better each day. Will I turn on the reactor some day? yeah probably...just to see if it makes things look even better, but for now I dont have too.
I like my scrubber so much, I think I will add a second one to the oposite side of my sump as my bio load increases. THen I can stagger cleaning from one side to the next on alternate weeks.
Are scrubbers the end all be all? I dont want to say yet. But one thing is fore sure, I haven't been disappointed yet.
 

king_neptune

Active Member
I remember reading on the scrubber faq at the scrubber site. There was something that addressed that. If I remember it stated that the idea was patented and that's why there is no commercial manufacturing of this product. Only diy home stations.
 

king_neptune

Active Member
Big mistake last night!
I woke up and my temp was 72&#37;h
I checked and ouch! I forgot to turn on the power strip that had the power heads plugged in it after the feeding session yesterday. The heaters also run off the same line! I really got to
A: Keep them on separate lines
B: Double check every time.
 

jas1

Member
Originally Posted by King_Neptune
http:///forum/post/3139491
Big mistake last night!
I woke up and my temp was 72&#37;h
I checked and ouch! I forgot to turn on the power strip that had the power heads plugged in it after the feeding session yesterday. The heaters also run off the same line! I really got to
A: Keep them on separate lines
B: Double check every time.
LOL...All the critters OK? IMO low temps are better than high temps. Just wait till a heater goes, they always break on, not off. It's usually in the middle of the night and you wake up to a NUCLEAR tank, or a saltwater fish spa
 

king_neptune

Active Member
water seems to be getting less clear. darkening up a bit. Tsk Tsk. Im gonna do a MAJOR scrubbing of everything and beefy water changes again. And re-design the scrubber with a thicker pad. I feel its not absorbing enough. I get algae growth, but some spots its THICK, other spots its a light film. ITs working better since the last mod, but I want to see if I can get even better performance.
My water params are still reading flat line across the board, so honestly I cant complain...but I really covet that showroom quality water. And wont stop till I get it.
Last chance though, if the next round of mods to he scrubber don't work,then I will activate the GFO/Carbon reactor in about 4 weeks. But since I dont have any negative parameters in my water quality, I am in no rush to do so. However I did buy this thing and install it with the intent that it would filter the water and give it a bluish tint.
On a plus note I see white specks on the glass, and when I shut the water flow off, i see white specks move about under their own power....im gonna assume they are pods since I seeded the tank a month ago. Everything is commming along nicely so I can go ahead and order some larger/more advanced fish, and some light beginner corals. The GSP is turning out to be a $60 paperweight. 11 days later, I ive seen is a couple small polyps. I may get one more
Im going to order a really nice 10k/20k dual arc bulb and see If I like it. If it pans out, Ill get two more.
 

posiden

Active Member
Originally Posted by King_Neptune
http:///forum/post/3140463
My water params are still reading flat line across the board, so honestly I cant complain...but I really covet that showroom quality water. And wont stop till I get it.

If you really want to run just a scrubber.......then the, "showroom quality" water will never be there. Scrubbers only use up the nutrients. They will trap some detritus and clean the water a bit but, it will never be the crystal clear water you so desire. That water has been striped of all the food and particulates via hard skimming and filter pads.
 
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