Saltn00b's Multi-Phase Upgrade Diary!

[saltn00b]

cool , thanks for the input, much appreciated!
i am likely going to have to dismantle the whole thing to screw the casing into a the canopy that i want to build. there are 4 screw holes, but you need to get access to the bottom somehow.
i also had three reflectors that were damaged, so aquactinics is sending me replacements that i will have to install. again, both things should not be too difficult.
depending on how long this canopy is going to take, i may just get the thing running on top of the tank sitting on wood blocks or something, just to get the lights going... but the tank will look crappy with no canopy the way it is designed, and i will have a lot of light escaping... so i am contemplating that. gonna order the bulbs soon, as well so at least have the option.
right now i have simply 2 72" T-12 160W VHOs, running off of an Ice cap 660. both bulbs are 50/50's (10k/actinic). most people have twice that JUST for their actinic supplementation alone! grossly underpowered.

 

[wangotango]

Originally Posted by saltn00b
depending on how long this canopy is going to take, i may just get the thing running on top of the tank sitting on wood blocks or something, just to get the lights going... .
thats what i did. just finished building our new canopy with two doors in front (with the stained glass inserts), and a door on top. just have to match the old stain color which will be no small task

. keep it up.
-Justin

 

[saltn00b]

heh, i have decided that i will never be able to match the old wood, and i honestly dont even like it that much to begin with. whatever is built will only loosely resemble the color of the stand lol.
i keep leaning in the direction of just putting the new lights on the tank as is , for now.
in the process, i have discovered i would need to purchase 3 individual timers for the three light switches on the unit. i could not even accomplish this with the only multi timer on the market , the coralife unit. and if i could use it, i still wouldnt buy that junk from the crappy reviews i have heard. so i started talking with a buddy who is an electrical engineer to build and corner the niche market of advanced aquarists who need safe, reliable 4-8 plug digital timers.

 

[isistius]

Originally Posted by saltn00b
in the process, i have discovered i would need to purchase 3 individual timers for the three light switches on the unit. i could not even accomplish this with the only multi timer on the market , the coralife unit. and if i could use it, i still wouldnt buy that junk from the crappy reviews i have heard. so i started talking with a buddy who is an electrical engineer to build and corner the niche market of advanced aquarists who need safe, reliable 4-8 plug digital timers.
you just let the cat out of the bag

 

[saltn00b]

yea yea im not too worried.

 

[kayak385]

how does the tank look now?

 

[saltn00b]

well it looks like the pics above i would presume
i have somebody about to purchase my existing canopy, so if that works out i will be ordering the bulbs today or tomorrow and then put the new unit on the tank without the cabinet until that can be built, and just deal with the ugliness of it until that point.

 

[saltn00b]

well - the engineer goby has been MIA for 2 days. he seemed 'nervous' or scared ever since i put him in. the first night i found him in my sump. a few days later, one eye seemed to have been bloodshot, maybe from getting stuck in a PH grate, or attacked, IDK. and now he is gone. i do not have high hopes for his survival.
the Linkia is also deteriorating daily, i should be getting a new HEALTHY one next time i purchase.

 

[isistius]

sorry to hear that dude

 

[saltn00b]

HOORAY!
4 days MIA and the engineer goby has re-emerged!
i was trying to get him to about face so i could see his eye, but he wouldnt. no sign of the blood-shot from the top tho.
wooooooot
been buffing up my calcium and alk levels, they were running a little low.
last check seems to be getting on track.
calc 430 ppm
alk 2.8 meql
i took one of the rio 600s from my DT lastnight and put in the fuge, so now i have a circular flow pattern. the cheato mass getting a reddish film at the surface which was blocking light, and it was not tumbling. some of the cheato started to appear to not look well. the film was cyano, as it is thriving in the sandbed of the fuge because of the lighting. i am hoping this works, any suggestions?

 

[saltn00b]

also, here is a pic of the CBBF in hypo in the QT.
doing well for the most part, he just has this strange black / white growth on his cuadal section.
happy, but a very shy eater, i am somewhat worried about what will happen when i put him in the DT with the mean GSM and anthias.
even considering catching selling / trading the anthias....

 

[saltn00b]

the growth seems to have had no status change. however, he started eating the brine with gusto this weekend. going to try to start weening to mysis tonight - so if he starts getting a lot of nutrition it should be gone i think.

 

[saltn00b]

PURCHASED!
Qty Item # Description Manufacturer Color Our Price Line Total
4 104976 39W 12000K Aquablue Special T5 HO Fluorescent ATI None $20.95 $83.80
4 104980 39W Blue Plus T5 HO Fluorescent ATI None $19.95 $79.80
2 104034 39W 6000K Midday Sun T5 HO Fluorescent Giesemann None $17.95 $35.90
2 104036 39W Actinic Plus T5 HO Fluorescent Giesemann None $19.95 $39.90
2 104992 39W 10000K AquaSun T5 HO Fluorescent UV Lighting None $21.95 $43.90
Subtotal $283.30
Ground Shipping $0.00
TOTAL $283.30

 

[isistius]

Originally Posted by saltn00b
PURCHASED!
Qty Item # Description Manufacturer Color Our Price Line Total
4 104976 39W 12000K Aquablue Special T5 HO Fluorescent ATI None $20.95 $83.80
4 104980 39W Blue Plus T5 HO Fluorescent ATI None $19.95 $79.80
2 104034 39W 6000K Midday Sun T5 HO Fluorescent Giesemann None $17.95 $35.90
2 104036 39W Actinic Plus T5 HO Fluorescent Giesemann None $19.95 $39.90
2 104992 39W 10000K AquaSun T5 HO Fluorescent UV Lighting None $21.95 $43.90
Subtotal $283.30
Ground Shipping $0.00
TOTAL $283.30
nice

 

[azfishgal]

Originally Posted by saltn00b
i took one of the rio 600s from my DT lastnight and put in the fuge, so now i have a circular flow pattern. the cheato mass getting a reddish film at the surface which was blocking light, and it was not tumbling. some of the cheato started to appear to not look well. the film was cyano, as it is thriving in the sandbed of the fuge because of the lighting. i am hoping this works, any suggestions?
I started to get the red slime (or whatever it was) on my cheato. I was leaving the light on 24 hours, but then I switched to night lighting (when my DT lights are off). That seemed to stop the growth of the red slime. Then I started to turn it with my hand every time I topped off (just gave it a few rotations). After two weeks my red slime is completely gone and my cheato seems to be growing. My cheato has pretty good flow as the water goes through it and over it down into the other compartment with my skimmer. But it was getting caught on the "teeth" and was not tumbling. It seems givng it a tumble once a day does the job.

Can't wait to see pics with your new lighting.

 

[saltn00b]

thanks!
i have heard if you arent going to light for 24 hours, it should be opposite of your DT lighting to keep the pH swing to a minimum (photosynthesis).
the slime is clearing up nicely with the extra flow in the fuge now, so i am gonna see how it takes. i spin it around when i am fumbling in there as well.
also, thanks to Dogstar's suggestion i have successfully gotten the CBBF in hypo to eat brine shrimp, and now totally weened onto mysis!! friday, i start bringing the salinity back up

 

[azfishgal]

Originally Posted by saltn00b
thanks!
i have heard if you arent going to light for 24 hours, it should be opposite of your DT lighting to keep the pH swing to a minimum (photosynthesis).
the slime is clearing up nicely with the extra flow in the fuge now, so i am gonna see how it takes. i spin it around when i am fumbling in there as well.
also, thanks to Dogstar's suggestion i have successfully gotten the CBBF in hypo to eat brine shrimp, and now totally weened onto mysis!! friday, i start bringing the salinity back up

Yes, that's the reason I have the light on opposite of my DT, to keep the pH from dropping.

Congrats on the CBBF! Can't wait to see him in your DT.

 

[kevin34]

Tank looks great! I was also planning to get the Constellation fixture so I would really like to hear how it is. Here is the canopy that I was planning to build. It is taller than your and has access at the front instead of lifting it up like a hood. The only problem with the hood idea is that when you lift it up to feed the fish or something the lights will be shining right into your eyes. My idea has the Constellation fixture hanging a couple inches down from the top of the canopy (suspended my short chains). And there are 3 doors that open on the front for easy feed and maintenance. I was also putting a door on each side to open during the summer just for extra ventilation.

 

[saltn00b]

Thanks!
nice idea, but some things to consider -
1) you have to have venitlation on top and sides so the constellation's venting / fans is unobstructed at all times.
2) once open, how will you have access to the tank if the hood is still hanging mere inches over the top of the tank?

 

[saltn00b]

while we are posting i thought i would include some upgrades...
'the geek of the reef' has been out of stock of the
39W 6000K Midday Sun T5 HO Fluorescent Giesemanns,
so i replaced it with the new 39W 6500K GE's. shouldnt be able to tell the difference...
because my existing light set up has a digital timer, i am going to use that in conjunction with the new a Intermatic 2 socket digital timer i just purchased for 22 bucks. i also have 100' of charcoal fiberglass screening ready to start the light acclimation for friday when i hook up the lights