Some one PLEASE help me
- Thread starter daver1062
- Start date
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by daver1062 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me/20#post_3428440
I just did a search and found that the last 4 digits in lot number is manufacture date. so the nitrate would be april 2011. Does this sound correct?
Well since it's november 2011...it is an old kit by such calculations...and since the numbers are so far off, we can decide the kit is less than reliable.... right. Order you some seachem test kits and take that one back to *****.
What critters are in your tank?
Originally Posted by daver1062 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me/20#post_3428440
I just did a search and found that the last 4 digits in lot number is manufacture date. so the nitrate would be april 2011. Does this sound correct?
Well since it's november 2011...it is an old kit by such calculations...and since the numbers are so far off, we can decide the kit is less than reliable.... right. Order you some seachem test kits and take that one back to *****.
What critters are in your tank?
btldreef
Moderator
Yes, it means your kit was made in April of this year, and since you just opened it, it's fine.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned this yet:
You have WAY TOO MANY fish in that tank. I'd bet money that this is the root of your nitrate problem.
Have you cleaned your Fluval? If so, how did you? Canister filters can be major nitrate factories if not maintained properly.
You say you've been using ChemiPure, how much and when did you last change it?
As a side note, I'm not a huge fan of API nitrate kits. They're not very accurate and notorious for reading higher than actual levels. I really like SeaChem for nitrate test kits.
Test your water BEFORE you do a water change (the water you're using to do the change with). It sounds as if you may actually be introducing nitrates, so let's rule that out.
I recommend a big cleaning of your canister filter and skimmer, adding some Chemi Pure Elite AND Purigen to it. Also do small (10g) daily water changes and one larger water change weekly. Cut back on feeding and research animals before purchase, you had way too many in that tank, and were not feeding the nutrients certain fish, such as the tang and Blenny, needed.
Good luck!
I'm surprised no one has mentioned this yet:
You have WAY TOO MANY fish in that tank. I'd bet money that this is the root of your nitrate problem.
Have you cleaned your Fluval? If so, how did you? Canister filters can be major nitrate factories if not maintained properly.
You say you've been using ChemiPure, how much and when did you last change it?
As a side note, I'm not a huge fan of API nitrate kits. They're not very accurate and notorious for reading higher than actual levels. I really like SeaChem for nitrate test kits.
Test your water BEFORE you do a water change (the water you're using to do the change with). It sounds as if you may actually be introducing nitrates, so let's rule that out.
I recommend a big cleaning of your canister filter and skimmer, adding some Chemi Pure Elite AND Purigen to it. Also do small (10g) daily water changes and one larger water change weekly. Cut back on feeding and research animals before purchase, you had way too many in that tank, and were not feeding the nutrients certain fish, such as the tang and Blenny, needed.
Good luck!
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by daver1062 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me/20#post_3428448
I will do that. Thanks.
In my tank I have:
2 percula clowns 1 tomato clown 1 yellow tang 1 foxface 2 pajama cardinals 1 squirrel fish 1 small yellow/banana wrasse 1 coral beauty
Quote:
Originally Posted by BTLDreef http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me/20#post_3428447
Yes, it means your kit was made in April of this year, and since you just opened it, it's fine.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned this yet:
You have WAY TOO MANY fish in that tank. I'd bet money that this is the root of your nitrate problem.
Have you cleaned your Fluval? If so, how did you? Canister filters can be major nitrate factories if not maintained properly.
You say you've been using ChemiPure, how much and when did you last change it?
As a side note, I'm not a huge fan of API nitrate kits. They're not very accurate and notorious for reading higher than actual levels. I really like SeaChem for nitrate test kits.
Test your water BEFORE you do a water change (the water you're using to do the change with). It sounds as if you may actually be introducing nitrates, so let's rule that out.
I recommend a big cleaning of your canister filter and skimmer, adding some Chemi Pure Elite AND Purigen to it. Also do small (10g) daily water changes and one larger water change weekly. Cut back on feeding and research animals before purchase, you had way too many in that tank, and were not feeding the nutrients certain fish, such as the tang and Blenny, needed.
Good luck!
In a 125g tank....how is that way too many fish?
Originally Posted by daver1062 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me/20#post_3428448
I will do that. Thanks.
In my tank I have:
2 percula clowns 1 tomato clown 1 yellow tang 1 foxface 2 pajama cardinals 1 squirrel fish 1 small yellow/banana wrasse 1 coral beauty
Quote:
Originally Posted by BTLDreef http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me/20#post_3428447
Yes, it means your kit was made in April of this year, and since you just opened it, it's fine.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned this yet:
You have WAY TOO MANY fish in that tank. I'd bet money that this is the root of your nitrate problem.
Have you cleaned your Fluval? If so, how did you? Canister filters can be major nitrate factories if not maintained properly.
You say you've been using ChemiPure, how much and when did you last change it?
As a side note, I'm not a huge fan of API nitrate kits. They're not very accurate and notorious for reading higher than actual levels. I really like SeaChem for nitrate test kits.
Test your water BEFORE you do a water change (the water you're using to do the change with). It sounds as if you may actually be introducing nitrates, so let's rule that out.
I recommend a big cleaning of your canister filter and skimmer, adding some Chemi Pure Elite AND Purigen to it. Also do small (10g) daily water changes and one larger water change weekly. Cut back on feeding and research animals before purchase, you had way too many in that tank, and were not feeding the nutrients certain fish, such as the tang and Blenny, needed.
Good luck!
In a 125g tank....how is that way too many fish?
flower
Well-Known Member
BTLDreef,
I trust your judgement, you know way more than I do, and LOL, I'm usually the one to give in and admit defeat, but I can't wrap my head around it....All the fish a little guys excapt the two herbivorous fish...Yellow tang and foxface, 125g.... isn't that a 6 foot tank? I understand about the canister but I used canister filters for years, my "nitrate" nightmare turned out to be the result of incorrect readings from an API expired test kit.
If the OP had nitrates at 160 and did a 60g water change and still had a reading of 160 for nitrates, it isn't the fish but the test kit.
I trust your judgement, you know way more than I do, and LOL, I'm usually the one to give in and admit defeat, but I can't wrap my head around it....All the fish a little guys excapt the two herbivorous fish...Yellow tang and foxface, 125g.... isn't that a 6 foot tank? I understand about the canister but I used canister filters for years, my "nitrate" nightmare turned out to be the result of incorrect readings from an API expired test kit.
If the OP had nitrates at 160 and did a 60g water change and still had a reading of 160 for nitrates, it isn't the fish but the test kit.
btldreef
Moderator
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me/20#post_3428698
BTLDreef,
I trust your judgement, you know way more than I do, and LOL, I'm usually the one to give in and admit defeat, but I can't wrap my head around it....All the fish a little guys excapt the two herbivorous fish...Yellow tang and foxface, 125g.... isn't that a 6 foot tank? I understand about the canister but I used canister filters for years, my "nitrate" nightmare turned out to be the result of incorrect readings from an API expired test kit.
If the OP had nitrates at 160 and did a 60g water change and still had a reading of 160 for nitrates, it isn't the fish but the test kit.
125's are usually not 6ft tanks, some are, but it is not the standard. My big issue is that this tank is only 6 months old, has fish and anemones dying (which is probably due to inadequate lighting and an unstable tank), he doesn't know what type of fish certain ones are, isn't feeding the correct foods, etc. It's not the OP's fault entirely, as he states he's doing what his LFS told him to do, just one more reason why we shouldn't trust people out to make money. I'd like to know how he's cleaning the canister filter. It's my understanding (daver1062 please correct me if I'm wrong) that there were TWO yellow tangs in the tank and he lost one, leaving him with one more. That plus the foxface and a squirrelfish is a lot of large fish for just a canister filter, then you combine in dying anemones, and a few fish that have died, and it spells out disaster to me, regardless of whether the test kit reads correctly or not. As you know, I hate the API nitrate kit, and make no secret about it. I've found non-expired API kits not to read properly.
This is my understanding of what was in the tank:
2 Yellow Tangs (maybe one, I'm a little confused here)
1 Foxface
1 Bird Wrasse
1 Coral Beauty
1 Blenny (type unknown)
1 Goby (type unknown)
2 PJ Cardinals
2 Percula Clownfish
1 Tomato Clownfish (this also needs to be addressed, adding multiple species of clowns is usually not a good idea and it is likely that as the Tomato matures, it will attack the Perculas)
1 Squirrel Fish
1 Banana Wrasse
Various anemones that have perished
That's A LOT for a 125G that's less than a year old. We also don't know how much live rock is in there, etc. It just throws up a big red flag for me. I'm definitely not saying that it's the issue, but it very well could be, and regardless, needs to be addressed.
I do find it odd that after doing a large water change the nitrate levels did not change, but if his canister is filled with dead fish/anemone waste, it's not going to change.
In your case Flower, you had exhausted other options when I chimed in about the API kits inaccuracy. You also had a much better understanding on how to maintain a tank than this OP does. While I do think he should try the SeaChem kit, I'm not sure that will fix everything.
Quote:
Originally Posted by daver1062 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me/20#post_3428729
No one in my area carries seachem does anyone have experiance with nutrafin or red sea test kits?
Both aren't great. You can order the SeaChem kit online. Saltwaterfish carries them: https://www.saltwaterfish.com/Seachem-Multitest-Nitrite-and-Nitrate_p_2190.html
Originally Posted by Flower http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me/20#post_3428698
BTLDreef,
I trust your judgement, you know way more than I do, and LOL, I'm usually the one to give in and admit defeat, but I can't wrap my head around it....All the fish a little guys excapt the two herbivorous fish...Yellow tang and foxface, 125g.... isn't that a 6 foot tank? I understand about the canister but I used canister filters for years, my "nitrate" nightmare turned out to be the result of incorrect readings from an API expired test kit.
If the OP had nitrates at 160 and did a 60g water change and still had a reading of 160 for nitrates, it isn't the fish but the test kit.
125's are usually not 6ft tanks, some are, but it is not the standard. My big issue is that this tank is only 6 months old, has fish and anemones dying (which is probably due to inadequate lighting and an unstable tank), he doesn't know what type of fish certain ones are, isn't feeding the correct foods, etc. It's not the OP's fault entirely, as he states he's doing what his LFS told him to do, just one more reason why we shouldn't trust people out to make money. I'd like to know how he's cleaning the canister filter. It's my understanding (daver1062 please correct me if I'm wrong) that there were TWO yellow tangs in the tank and he lost one, leaving him with one more. That plus the foxface and a squirrelfish is a lot of large fish for just a canister filter, then you combine in dying anemones, and a few fish that have died, and it spells out disaster to me, regardless of whether the test kit reads correctly or not. As you know, I hate the API nitrate kit, and make no secret about it. I've found non-expired API kits not to read properly.
This is my understanding of what was in the tank:
2 Yellow Tangs (maybe one, I'm a little confused here)
1 Foxface
1 Bird Wrasse
1 Coral Beauty
1 Blenny (type unknown)
1 Goby (type unknown)
2 PJ Cardinals
2 Percula Clownfish
1 Tomato Clownfish (this also needs to be addressed, adding multiple species of clowns is usually not a good idea and it is likely that as the Tomato matures, it will attack the Perculas)
1 Squirrel Fish
1 Banana Wrasse
Various anemones that have perished
That's A LOT for a 125G that's less than a year old. We also don't know how much live rock is in there, etc. It just throws up a big red flag for me. I'm definitely not saying that it's the issue, but it very well could be, and regardless, needs to be addressed.
I do find it odd that after doing a large water change the nitrate levels did not change, but if his canister is filled with dead fish/anemone waste, it's not going to change.
In your case Flower, you had exhausted other options when I chimed in about the API kits inaccuracy. You also had a much better understanding on how to maintain a tank than this OP does. While I do think he should try the SeaChem kit, I'm not sure that will fix everything.
Quote:
Originally Posted by daver1062 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me/20#post_3428729
No one in my area carries seachem does anyone have experiance with nutrafin or red sea test kits?
Both aren't great. You can order the SeaChem kit online. Saltwaterfish carries them: https://www.saltwaterfish.com/Seachem-Multitest-Nitrite-and-Nitrate_p_2190.html
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
If the tank looks a mess and everything is dying, I can automatically assume that the water quality is very poor and that something should be done. Regardless if the test kits are right or not, any test kit will say that there is a problem.
btldreef
Moderator
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me/20#post_3428782
If the tank looks a mess and everything is dying, I can automatically assume that the water quality is very poor and that something should be done. Regardless if the test kits are right or not, any test kit will say that there is a problem.
True, but I have literally seen an API nitrate kit read over 50ppm and SeaChem read under 5, which was confirmed with a meter used by my local aquarium, and I've seen this more than once. I do think that there are some major issues going on with this tank, but a more accurate reading of the nitrates would be nice.
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me/20#post_3428782
If the tank looks a mess and everything is dying, I can automatically assume that the water quality is very poor and that something should be done. Regardless if the test kits are right or not, any test kit will say that there is a problem.
True, but I have literally seen an API nitrate kit read over 50ppm and SeaChem read under 5, which was confirmed with a meter used by my local aquarium, and I've seen this more than once. I do think that there are some major issues going on with this tank, but a more accurate reading of the nitrates would be nice.
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by daver1062 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me#post_3425721
I am having problems with my 125 gallon saltwater tank. Anemones keep dying yellow tang died goby died and my blennie looks sick. I did water test and every thing is perfect. Filter media is up to date. I run a fluval fx-5 filter , protein skimmer rated for 220 gallon tank a uv sterilizer rated for 125 gallon tank. I do not have special lighting. Fish still alive two pajama cardinals , one tomato clown 2 percula clows one fox face one squirrel fish one bird wrasse one yellow wrasse.
Sorry for your losses. Glad to know your filter media was cleaned recently and that you are maintaining your canister filter well. I'm glad to see that you have invested in a protein skimmer. Your lighting is not sufficient for an anemone, that, and many other reasons is why your anemones have died.
Quote:
Originally Posted by daver1062 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me#post_3425744
I had a 90 gallon setup which was running for a year and a half no problems with it. Iupgraded to the 125 gallon tank in march of this year. I do not know what sg is I am semi new to this hobby.I onlt test ph and nitrite. That is what I was told at my local pet store. I feed the tank with brine schrimp and krill.I do not know the specific kind of blenny or goby the blenny is one of my original fish the goby has been here for about 4 months
You had a 90g for a year without knowing your salinity? pH and Nitrate should be tested regularly for fish only tanks. I also should say that you should know every single fish you have and their care requirements before purchasing livestock.
Quote:
Originally Posted by daver1062 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me#post_3426042
Thanks to all I will pick up a complete test kit and advise.
Your welcome, glad you are picking up new kits.
Quote:
Originally Posted by daver1062 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me#post_3426094
Ok spent over a hundred bucks on new test kits and found some problems. My salt gravity is 1.032 my ph is 8.0 my nitrite is 0 my nitrate is 160 my calcium is over 520 my phosphate is 10 and amonia is 0. The only test I could not buy today was the alkalinity.
Salinity should come down to 1.024 as soon as you can. Nitrate and phosphate will come down with water changes and good husbandry practices.
Quote:
Originally Posted by daver1062 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me#post_3426353
I will also take out the chemipure product that does not seem to be removing my nitrates and phosphate. I will buy the original fluval clearmax.
Whatever works for you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by daver1062 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me#post_3428427
Update on my problem. I have changed 60 gallons of water using my RODI unit and I bought water from culligan water company. I have been using Microbacter-7 and phosphate-e by brightwell aquatics. I did another full test this morning and the results are amonia 0 nitrite 0 nitrate still 160 phosphate .25 ph 7.8 and salt gravity is now 1.024. What else can I do to bring down these darn nitrates
You should get a TDS meter for your new RO Unit. The meter will tell you when your filters will need to be changed. A TDS reading of 0 is great. Brightwell aquatics is a good brand. Glad you are using something. Glad to see you got your phosphates down a bit. Glad to see that you got your salinity down substantially. That will help your tank out a lot right there. You can do more water changes, and get rid of your canister filter and go with a hang on back filter. Increase your skimmers output to make sure it is skimming adequately. You could add an algae scrubber to your tank - but make sure you do a lot of research for them and you gotta be handy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by daver1062 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me#post_3428432
I am using API to test. I just bought them at ***** a bit over a week ago. I see lot number but no expiration date. My tank is 125 gallon.
Regardless if you don't know the true values of your nitrate and phosphate, your tank still has a problem with nitrate and phosphate. Adequate water changes will help, combined with chemical filtration media, macro algaes, or an algae scrubber. If you can, add some base rock to your tank and it will provide more surface area for bacteria to grow and help biologically filter your water. Increase your flow rates by utilizing more powerheads such as Koralias. You should have about 20x the flow rate in powerheads alone. So, for a 125g tank, you should have no less than 2500gph of flow from powerheads alone.
At least you are concerned, and will spend money to correct the problem. I congratulate you for not giving up.
Originally Posted by daver1062 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me#post_3425721
I am having problems with my 125 gallon saltwater tank. Anemones keep dying yellow tang died goby died and my blennie looks sick. I did water test and every thing is perfect. Filter media is up to date. I run a fluval fx-5 filter , protein skimmer rated for 220 gallon tank a uv sterilizer rated for 125 gallon tank. I do not have special lighting. Fish still alive two pajama cardinals , one tomato clown 2 percula clows one fox face one squirrel fish one bird wrasse one yellow wrasse.
Sorry for your losses. Glad to know your filter media was cleaned recently and that you are maintaining your canister filter well. I'm glad to see that you have invested in a protein skimmer. Your lighting is not sufficient for an anemone, that, and many other reasons is why your anemones have died.
Quote:
Originally Posted by daver1062 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me#post_3425744
I had a 90 gallon setup which was running for a year and a half no problems with it. Iupgraded to the 125 gallon tank in march of this year. I do not know what sg is I am semi new to this hobby.I onlt test ph and nitrite. That is what I was told at my local pet store. I feed the tank with brine schrimp and krill.I do not know the specific kind of blenny or goby the blenny is one of my original fish the goby has been here for about 4 months
You had a 90g for a year without knowing your salinity? pH and Nitrate should be tested regularly for fish only tanks. I also should say that you should know every single fish you have and their care requirements before purchasing livestock.
Quote:
Originally Posted by daver1062 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me#post_3426042
Thanks to all I will pick up a complete test kit and advise.
Your welcome, glad you are picking up new kits.
Quote:
Originally Posted by daver1062 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me#post_3426094
Ok spent over a hundred bucks on new test kits and found some problems. My salt gravity is 1.032 my ph is 8.0 my nitrite is 0 my nitrate is 160 my calcium is over 520 my phosphate is 10 and amonia is 0. The only test I could not buy today was the alkalinity.
Salinity should come down to 1.024 as soon as you can. Nitrate and phosphate will come down with water changes and good husbandry practices.
Quote:
Originally Posted by daver1062 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me#post_3426353
I will also take out the chemipure product that does not seem to be removing my nitrates and phosphate. I will buy the original fluval clearmax.
Whatever works for you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by daver1062 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me#post_3428427
Update on my problem. I have changed 60 gallons of water using my RODI unit and I bought water from culligan water company. I have been using Microbacter-7 and phosphate-e by brightwell aquatics. I did another full test this morning and the results are amonia 0 nitrite 0 nitrate still 160 phosphate .25 ph 7.8 and salt gravity is now 1.024. What else can I do to bring down these darn nitrates
You should get a TDS meter for your new RO Unit. The meter will tell you when your filters will need to be changed. A TDS reading of 0 is great. Brightwell aquatics is a good brand. Glad you are using something. Glad to see you got your phosphates down a bit. Glad to see that you got your salinity down substantially. That will help your tank out a lot right there. You can do more water changes, and get rid of your canister filter and go with a hang on back filter. Increase your skimmers output to make sure it is skimming adequately. You could add an algae scrubber to your tank - but make sure you do a lot of research for them and you gotta be handy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by daver1062 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me#post_3428432
I am using API to test. I just bought them at ***** a bit over a week ago. I see lot number but no expiration date. My tank is 125 gallon.
Regardless if you don't know the true values of your nitrate and phosphate, your tank still has a problem with nitrate and phosphate. Adequate water changes will help, combined with chemical filtration media, macro algaes, or an algae scrubber. If you can, add some base rock to your tank and it will provide more surface area for bacteria to grow and help biologically filter your water. Increase your flow rates by utilizing more powerheads such as Koralias. You should have about 20x the flow rate in powerheads alone. So, for a 125g tank, you should have no less than 2500gph of flow from powerheads alone.
At least you are concerned, and will spend money to correct the problem. I congratulate you for not giving up.
clown-keeper99
Member
just keep doing large water changes the nitrate and phosphate dissapear
also stay away from *****
also stay away from *****
mr. limpid
Active Member
Only if you stir up the sand will it cause nitrate problems and algae doesn't cause nitrates they are consumers of organics, which cause ammonia which then causes nitrates. So algae is actual good but unsightly, thus algae scrubbers ( a controlled algae growth).
mr. limpid
Active Member
Small amount wont make that large of an impact. I was talking about the entire sand bed, you really don't want to stir it up. If you want to remove the top layer (to remove algae growth, usually about 1/8") then siphon it off during a water change and rinse it very well. I leave it in a dark bucket for several months rinse it again then add it back to tank.
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by daver1062 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me/20#post_3429799
What is better sand or crushed coral?
They both have their problems. Choose the one that fits your needs. Heck, you could even go barebottom. lol
Originally Posted by daver1062 http:///t/388454/some-one-please-help-me/20#post_3429799
What is better sand or crushed coral?
They both have their problems. Choose the one that fits your needs. Heck, you could even go barebottom. lol
clown-keeper99
Member
I personaly like live sand better but you should cure it like live rock