Squidd I'm Almost Ready To Move To The Basement!!
- Thread starter lubeck
- Start date
lubeck
Active Member
I got this off another site.
Do I need to use 1" pipe and then reduce it down? I believe this is for a 1" bulkhead so that means for 3/4" bulkhead I need to use 1" PVC and then reduce it like in #4? If that is the case I have alot of this hardware left from my plumbing.
Also, look foward to the baffles coming in by Thursday, I still need to get the egg crate, what is the dimensions? I am still having trouble visualizing your order of instalation with the baffles. How long does it usually take for drying?
10 - 1¼ PVC end-cap with vent hole.
9 - Connector made of 1¼ PVC. Glue to Tee, teflon taped top for snug fit with End-Cap.
8 - 1¼ PVC Street-Ell. Trim the connector for a compact design to help fit into smaller overflow chambers. Glued into Tee fitting. This is the water intake for the standpipe. Water level would be expected to be around the middle of this fitting.
7 - 1¼ PVC Tee. Do not glue this onto the standpipe. Use teflon tape on the standpipe for a snug fit. This allows it to be removed for height adjustment or maintenance.
6 - 1¼ PVC Pipe. Sized long enough to get the end-cap just about equal to the rim of the display tank.
5 - 1¼ PVC Coupling. The stand pipe and reducer bushing are glued to this part.
4 - 1¼ to 1 inch reducer bushing.
3 - Connector made of 1 inch PVC. This should be glued into the reducer bushing. If you have a slip bulkhead, this inserts directly into the bulkhead -- use teflon tape for snug fit.
Do I need to use 1" pipe and then reduce it down? I believe this is for a 1" bulkhead so that means for 3/4" bulkhead I need to use 1" PVC and then reduce it like in #4? If that is the case I have alot of this hardware left from my plumbing.
Also, look foward to the baffles coming in by Thursday, I still need to get the egg crate, what is the dimensions? I am still having trouble visualizing your order of instalation with the baffles. How long does it usually take for drying?
10 - 1¼ PVC end-cap with vent hole.
9 - Connector made of 1¼ PVC. Glue to Tee, teflon taped top for snug fit with End-Cap.
8 - 1¼ PVC Street-Ell. Trim the connector for a compact design to help fit into smaller overflow chambers. Glued into Tee fitting. This is the water intake for the standpipe. Water level would be expected to be around the middle of this fitting.
7 - 1¼ PVC Tee. Do not glue this onto the standpipe. Use teflon tape on the standpipe for a snug fit. This allows it to be removed for height adjustment or maintenance.
6 - 1¼ PVC Pipe. Sized long enough to get the end-cap just about equal to the rim of the display tank.
5 - 1¼ PVC Coupling. The stand pipe and reducer bushing are glued to this part.
4 - 1¼ to 1 inch reducer bushing.
3 - Connector made of 1 inch PVC. This should be glued into the reducer bushing. If you have a slip bulkhead, this inserts directly into the bulkhead -- use teflon tape for snug fit.
lubeck
Active Member
Should I be using 1"PVC with a reducer?
Originally Posted by Lubeck
I got this off another site.
Do I need to use 1" pipe and then reduce it down? I believe this is for a 1" bulkhead so that means for 3/4" bulkhead I need to use 1" PVC and then reduce it like in #4? If that is the case I have alot of this hardware left from my plumbing.
Also, look foward to the baffles coming in by Thursday, I still need to get the egg crate, what is the dimensions? I am still having trouble visualizing your order of instalation with the baffles. How long does it usually take for drying?
10 - 1¼ PVC end-cap with vent hole.
9 - Connector made of 1¼ PVC. Glue to Tee, teflon taped top for snug fit with End-Cap.
8 - 1¼ PVC Street-Ell. Trim the connector for a compact design to help fit into smaller overflow chambers. Glued into Tee fitting. This is the water intake for the standpipe. Water level would be expected to be around the middle of this fitting.
7 - 1¼ PVC Tee. Do not glue this onto the standpipe. Use teflon tape on the standpipe for a snug fit. This allows it to be removed for height adjustment or maintenance.
6 - 1¼ PVC Pipe. Sized long enough to get the end-cap just about equal to the rim of the display tank.
5 - 1¼ PVC Coupling. The stand pipe and reducer bushing are glued to this part.
4 - 1¼ to 1 inch reducer bushing.
3 - Connector made of 1 inch PVC. This should be glued into the reducer bushing. If you have a slip bulkhead, this inserts directly into the bulkhead -- use teflon tape for snug fit.
Originally Posted by Lubeck
I got this off another site.
Do I need to use 1" pipe and then reduce it down? I believe this is for a 1" bulkhead so that means for 3/4" bulkhead I need to use 1" PVC and then reduce it like in #4? If that is the case I have alot of this hardware left from my plumbing.
Also, look foward to the baffles coming in by Thursday, I still need to get the egg crate, what is the dimensions? I am still having trouble visualizing your order of instalation with the baffles. How long does it usually take for drying?
10 - 1¼ PVC end-cap with vent hole.
9 - Connector made of 1¼ PVC. Glue to Tee, teflon taped top for snug fit with End-Cap.
8 - 1¼ PVC Street-Ell. Trim the connector for a compact design to help fit into smaller overflow chambers. Glued into Tee fitting. This is the water intake for the standpipe. Water level would be expected to be around the middle of this fitting.
7 - 1¼ PVC Tee. Do not glue this onto the standpipe. Use teflon tape on the standpipe for a snug fit. This allows it to be removed for height adjustment or maintenance.
6 - 1¼ PVC Pipe. Sized long enough to get the end-cap just about equal to the rim of the display tank.
5 - 1¼ PVC Coupling. The stand pipe and reducer bushing are glued to this part.
4 - 1¼ to 1 inch reducer bushing.
3 - Connector made of 1 inch PVC. This should be glued into the reducer bushing. If you have a slip bulkhead, this inserts directly into the bulkhead -- use teflon tape for snug fit.
squidd
Active Member
Originally Posted by Lubeck
Should I be using 1"PVC with a reducer?
You can make them both the same size... 1" ...then reduce for the 3/4" bulkhead...
If you have the room, you can go 1 1/4" and 1" (1" and 3/4" bulkhead respectively)...but your going to be tieing them together under the stand prior to draining into sump or fuge so they'll balance each other to a point...
Eggcrate comes in 2' X 4' sheets...you will need to cut to fit skimmer chamber..
For baffles ...takes 24 hr for silicone to dry... but you should only place a couple at a time (then let dry) then add next set...
Take your time set them straight and plumb, and clean as you go...
Should I be using 1"PVC with a reducer?
You can make them both the same size... 1" ...then reduce for the 3/4" bulkhead...
If you have the room, you can go 1 1/4" and 1" (1" and 3/4" bulkhead respectively)...but your going to be tieing them together under the stand prior to draining into sump or fuge so they'll balance each other to a point...
Eggcrate comes in 2' X 4' sheets...you will need to cut to fit skimmer chamber..
For baffles ...takes 24 hr for silicone to dry... but you should only place a couple at a time (then let dry) then add next set...
Take your time set them straight and plumb, and clean as you go...
lubeck
Active Member
:notsure: :notsure:
If you have the room, you can go 1 1/4" and 1" (1" and 3/4" bulkhead respectively)...but your going to be tieing them together under the stand prior to draining into sump or fuge so they'll balance each other to a point...
I don't know what you mean by that. I wasn't planning on tieing them together. I thought the drain lines were seperate. 1" drain for the skimmer and the 3/4" for the fuge???????? :notsure:
If you have the room, you can go 1 1/4" and 1" (1" and 3/4" bulkhead respectively)...but your going to be tieing them together under the stand prior to draining into sump or fuge so they'll balance each other to a point...
I don't know what you mean by that. I wasn't planning on tieing them together. I thought the drain lines were seperate. 1" drain for the skimmer and the 3/4" for the fuge???????? :notsure:
lubeck
Active Member
Sorry for all of these questions, but...
I wanted to be sure that I could still use carbon. perhaps place a sock of it between one of the baffles were the water will go up and over. Also, wanted to use, if need a filter sock on the sump drain line.
I am starting to get nervous/excited about the move to the basement, I am sure there will be alot of benifits.
Although, I want to be sure I am not missing anything that I will want in the future or have to do it all over again.
How do you do your water changes?
One of the main reasons for the move was to just be able to run the sump water to the sump pump by just flicking a switch and same goes for the filling of FSW.
So before the weekend, I would like some input. Also, keep in mind, I am trying to trade my exsisting sump/skimmer/35hexagon full setup to get the ASM3 also saving for a 3-4 phase drip system, phospan reactor, calcium reactor, uv sterilizer, Oh, I did'nt forget the closed loop.
I guess what i am saying is, Am I forgetting anything???
I wanted to be sure that I could still use carbon. perhaps place a sock of it between one of the baffles were the water will go up and over. Also, wanted to use, if need a filter sock on the sump drain line.
I am starting to get nervous/excited about the move to the basement, I am sure there will be alot of benifits.
Although, I want to be sure I am not missing anything that I will want in the future or have to do it all over again.
How do you do your water changes?
One of the main reasons for the move was to just be able to run the sump water to the sump pump by just flicking a switch and same goes for the filling of FSW.
So before the weekend, I would like some input. Also, keep in mind, I am trying to trade my exsisting sump/skimmer/35hexagon full setup to get the ASM3 also saving for a 3-4 phase drip system, phospan reactor, calcium reactor, uv sterilizer, Oh, I did'nt forget the closed loop.
I guess what i am saying is, Am I forgetting anything???
squidd
Active Member
Originally Posted by Lubeck
Hey Squidd,
for the sump setup, the water level for the protein skimmer will always be constant right? there should not be any evaporation in the skimmer chamber just in the return chamber, right?
Correct...
Actually, you get "evaporation" from all the chambers or any open surface area of water... but the chambers are "refreshed" and held to a constant level...the only place you'll "see" a dop is the return chamber..
Hey Squidd,
for the sump setup, the water level for the protein skimmer will always be constant right? there should not be any evaporation in the skimmer chamber just in the return chamber, right?
Correct...
Actually, you get "evaporation" from all the chambers or any open surface area of water... but the chambers are "refreshed" and held to a constant level...the only place you'll "see" a dop is the return chamber..
squidd
Active Member
Originally Posted by Lubeck
Sorry for all of these questions, but...
I wanted to be sure that I could still use carbon. perhaps place a sock of it between one of the baffles were the water will go up and over. Also, wanted to use, if need a filter sock on the sump drain line.
I prefer a "flow thru" device (reactor, converted canister) to a sock or bag "soaking" in a chamber...
I am starting to get nervous/excited about the move to the basement, I am sure there will be alot of benifits.
Although, I want to be sure I am not missing anything that I will want in the future or have to do it all over again.
How do you do your water changes?
Like everybody else...take some out ...put some back...
One of the main reasons for the move was to just be able to run the sump water to the sump pump by just flicking a switch and same goes for the filling of FSW.
That will work...
So before the weekend, I would like some input. Also, keep in mind, I am trying to trade my exsisting sump/skimmer/35hexagon full setup to get the ASM3 also saving for a 3-4 phase drip system, phospan reactor, calcium reactor, uv sterilizer, Oh, I did'nt forget the closed loop.
I guess what i am saying is, Am I forgetting anything???
There's always "something else"...all depends on pocket book and desires for tank..
.
Sorry for all of these questions, but...
I wanted to be sure that I could still use carbon. perhaps place a sock of it between one of the baffles were the water will go up and over. Also, wanted to use, if need a filter sock on the sump drain line.
I prefer a "flow thru" device (reactor, converted canister) to a sock or bag "soaking" in a chamber...
I am starting to get nervous/excited about the move to the basement, I am sure there will be alot of benifits.
Although, I want to be sure I am not missing anything that I will want in the future or have to do it all over again.
How do you do your water changes?
Like everybody else...take some out ...put some back...
One of the main reasons for the move was to just be able to run the sump water to the sump pump by just flicking a switch and same goes for the filling of FSW.
That will work...
So before the weekend, I would like some input. Also, keep in mind, I am trying to trade my exsisting sump/skimmer/35hexagon full setup to get the ASM3 also saving for a 3-4 phase drip system, phospan reactor, calcium reactor, uv sterilizer, Oh, I did'nt forget the closed loop.
I guess what i am saying is, Am I forgetting anything???
There's always "something else"...all depends on pocket book and desires for tank..
.
lubeck
Active Member
Originally Posted by Lubeck
:notsure: :notsure:
If you have the room, you can go 1 1/4" and 1" (1" and 3/4" bulkhead respectively)...but your going to be tieing them together under the stand prior to draining into sump or fuge so they'll balance each other to a point...
I don't know what you mean by that. I wasn't planning on tieing them together. I thought the drain lines were seperate. 1" drain for the skimmer and the 3/4" for the fuge???????? :notsure:
Also, would i put the reactor inside the return chamber?
lubeck
Active Member
Squidd, Baffles are done, I will be starting to assemble tonight!!!
I should follow the order of instalation based on the "cut list" right? I may be asking alot of questions tonight, i will take pics to show if i am placing them correctly.
I don't know where the notches of both A and B go do they face the front of the tank or the back?
I should follow the order of instalation based on the "cut list" right? I may be asking alot of questions tonight, i will take pics to show if i am placing them correctly.
I don't know where the notches of both A and B go do they face the front of the tank or the back?
squidd
Active Member
Originally Posted by Lubeck
:notsure: :notsure:
If you have the room, you can go 1 1/4" and 1" (1" and 3/4" bulkhead respectively)...but your going to be tieing them together under the stand prior to draining into sump or fuge so they'll balance each other to a point...
I don't know what you mean by that. I wasn't planning on tieing them together. I thought the drain lines were seperate. 1" drain for the skimmer and the 3/4" for the fuge???????? :notsure:
You can run them down as two seperate lines...or you can connect them together in one larger line (less holes in floor) but then you have to seperate them again when you get to S/F...
Suggest run two seperate... 1" to skimmer, 3/4" to fuge...BUT "H" them together with all 1" down in the basement or under the stand with ball valves on each, so you can divert all flow to skimmer for fuge maintenance if needed (sometimes it is..)
Like an "H" with a cross over or balance pipe...