Squidd I'm Almost Ready To Move To The Basement!!

lubeck

Active Member
Ok
I adjusted the durso's and still alot of gurgling I will get another pic to show. I still have a ton of bubbls also, over night got alot of slime coat it looks like on the drain overflow of the sump.. How do I stop the gurgling, just keep messing with it or will it take some time to catch up?
 

lubeck

Active Member
Here are some pics. What do you think of the level, is seems to be making more noise now after the adjustment. My wife is complaining about teh noise level of the overflow. MAKE IT STOP!!! HE. he




 

lubeck

Active Member
Squidd,
The home made, which is the pic above (top one) does not make the noise. It's the one that I bought when I got the tank, thats the one that makes noise, when I plug it with a little silicone it seems to make more noise. Should that hole be larger
 

squidd

Active Member
It's the one that I bought when I got the tank, thats the one that makes noise,
That sounds about right...
 

squidd

Active Member
Just needs a bit more tuneing and tweaking...
I don't like the "waterfall" over the edge of the overflow...if you raise the elbow of the Durso, so that water fall goes away or only "rolls"a 1/2"-3/4" or so much of the rushing waterfall noise will go away...
Along with the air that is being sucked in thru the bottom, making the upper air adjustment that much harder to hit...
The "sweet spot" on the Durso is kinda narrow...but we got to get you in the ballpark...before we can run the bases...
 

lubeck

Active Member
So your suggesting:
Do not make any more holes or plug any air vents?
Raise the durso, BOTH? so they are about 1/2" from the top?
I placed some sponges in overflow chamber in the sump as well as the baffle before for the return chamber. I hope this will help reduce the BUBBLES.
 

lubeck

Active Member
Squidd,
I am pretty confident, in that, I can manage the bubbles. If i get enough large sponges it seems it will take care of THAT PROBLEM.
I still have a loud whistleing sound coming from the store bought durso. How Can I fix this problem? Other than sound proofing the stand and basement ceiling. That is about it. I will take another pic later today of the overflow box in the DT to see if you think it looks right.
 

lubeck

Active Member
Oh yeah,
Now i need to work on the auto top-off system. What are the parts needed? Can I obtain them all at home depot or lowes?
I have 2 weeks before leaving for vacation, want to work out all the kinks.
 

squidd

Active Member
I am pretty confident, in that, I can manage the bubbles. If i get enough large sponges it seems it will take care of THAT PROBLEM.
That doesn't really "take care" of it, it's just a band aid to improperly tuned flow...and will over time fill with nitrate producing deitrus...might as well run a canister filter...
But if it helps for now, until you can spend the time to properly tune your system, then go for it...
I still have a loud whistleing sound coming from the store bought durso. How Can I fix this problem?
See above...
Now i need to work on the auto top-off system. What are the parts needed? Can I obtain them all at home depot or lowes?
What kind of auto top off are you going for...?
Pump and switch or feed and valve...?
 

lubeck

Active Member
I removed the sponge from the overflow drain and put it in between baffles E and F. There was a large water fall creating large bubbles. When I got home from work the tank looked alot better but not perfect. I had to buy another 50lbs of sand for the fuge, for some reason I thought 25lbs would be enough.
Anyways, i got some fine filter felt to use I'll see how it works out. Although, your saying I should not have any type of mechanical filtration in the sump/fuge??? I understand that I have alot of tweaking to do, but I will show you the LARGE waterfall between F and E. Its seems the flow there is very fast with the mag pump.
Also, I did move up my durso today, a little less noisy as far as water goes but NOT the whistling. I am going to make the store bought one from scratch. I don't understand why it does it but its really annoying.
Overall, I was really pleased to see the progress of less bubbles/water gurgling.
Still, I don't really know what to tweak other than makeing a new durso that doesn't whistle.
How can I manage these bubbles???
What kind of auto top off are you going for...?
Pump and switch or feed and valve...?

What do you recommend useing? Whats long lasting and very efficient. I do have my ro/di on the opposite side of the basement, not that, that matters.
Also, I finished fabricating my PC unit to go the fuge and used the reflector and fan and acinitics to house the DT. It looks pretty good I think.
I think I need to get a grounding probe just in case, as well change to a GFI.
I stopped running my seaclone skimmer, it does not produce skim mate at that depth just bubbles. I am going to wait till I get my ASM3 next week hopefully. Do you think a model 3 is big enough?
Also, working on my drain lines for water changes, had some left over pipe and ball valves, going to use my mag9.5 to drain the sump every week. I am going to enjoy the "plug and play" when doing water changes. Don't get me wrong, I loved hulling 30 gallons of water up the stairs then dumping, then pouring, then dumping..........
I wanted to thank you for all of your help, if you need to see some more pics to help narrow down the bubble problem let me know.
Thanks again, Bob
 

squidd

Active Member
but I will show you the LARGE waterfall between F and E. Its seems the flow there is very fast with the mag pump.
"F" is under the skimmer shelf, and "E" is by return chamber... and should be 2" up from bottom...???Where is the waterfall??...
Still, I don't really know what to tweak other than makeing a new durso that doesn't whistle.
Durso's can be tricky to set up, but once dialed in they are very quiet...if your's is not...needs more tweeking...Raise so there's no waterfall in overflow in tank, match in hieght so they don't fight each other... and work on the air hole...suggest air "valve" (airline tube air valve)...
I do have my ro/di on the opposite side of the basement, not that, that matters.
Kent Float valve and pressure shut off...Direct RO to sump...From Kent thru a LFS or on-line...
Also, I finished fabricating my PC unit to go the fuge and used the reflector and fan and acinitics to house the DT. It looks pretty good I think.
I think I need to get a grounding probe just in case, as well change to a GFI.
So, is that where you found the electric shock coming from...?
Do you think a model 3 is big enough?
G-3 is good
 

lubeck

Active Member
Here are some pics of what i came home today, there is alot of foam, i don't know if that is from not running the skimmer or what.
There is tons of noise coming from the durso . I don't want to cut or adjust anymore until i get some new pieces. I am going to go the the store Thurday and replace the street elle and end cap on the 1" durso, what size hole should i start with?
I ordered the ASM3 it will be here thursday or friday. yeah... . by by seaclone....
I feel if I am going backwards with the bubbles and foam. And as far as the noise goes, its loud. i hope to be able to play around with it tommorrow.




 

squidd

Active Member
what size hole should i start with?
3/16" then stick in an air valve...you will crank that thing almost closed...
I "believe" you start with like a 1/16" if you do the drilling thing, but I like the adjustabilty of the airvalve
 

lubeck

Active Member
What level should the stand pipe on the skimmer be at? The pipe that is adjustable, do you know where it should be at in relation to the water level?
 

lubeck

Active Member
Squidd, I think my tank is cycling
I tested my water today, and was showing traces of both nitrates and trites, no amonia. Is this normal for the tank to cycle? I am showing algae blooms in the main tank as well as the fuge.
What should I do? Should I do a water change?
Does it make sense to, just becuase I did just add 55 gallons of Fresh salt water plus 75lbs of dry sand.
 

lubeck

Active Member
The FVKITKENT allows an RO to fill a reservoir to a desired level, then shut down water production completely. This kit works from pressure only, no electricity. Included within this kit is a pressure solenoid, float valve (part # FVKENT), check valve, a 1/8" elbow, a male 1/8" x 1/8" connector and 1 foot each of blue and orange tubing.
FVKITKENT can be used on all RO`s except dual membrane systems like the 100, 120 and 150 gallon per day and the commercial RO units. For these units use the FVKITKENT2
Note: Not recommended for level control in aquariums. Whats this about

Is this what you were talking about?
 
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