sump/fuge size

renogaw

Active Member
i may have to make the table a little smaller depending on size of the compartment i can get it in, but i'll make a flat surface of eggcrate:
 

renogaw

Active Member
once you get all these things glued in, there sure isn't a lot of room it seems... i have the first three baffles in, and i'm wondering if i'm going to have room for a sand bed.
btw, the silicone from all glass is really messy, especially when the squeeze tube breaks because you folded it too many times.
 

renogaw

Active Member
well, i figured out an insanely easy and less messy way to put up the baffles.
i put them in place, then drew a line on masking tape where the edges were. i put a nice bead of silicone just before that line, and siliconed the bottom edge of the glass. I put the glass in at an angle, then brought it up square with the line. the bead of silicone got squished inbetween the glass and the baffles, plus on the surface of the baffles. then i used a latex glove and put the silicone on my finger and squished it onto the open side of the baffle. 2 baffles took me less than 5 mins each instead of struggling with them like i had been doing.
all the baffles are in, now i gotta figure out the plumbing. :jumping:
 

renogaw

Active Member
i guess the next thing i need to do is figure out what to do with my existing miracle mud. i was watching the pods in it... i don't know if i want to lose all that life that's infesting it.
I have 20 lbs of florida live sand at the LFS for me. according to the calculator on the left, that will give me a 12x10x4" dsb. I'm wondering if i should put the miracle mud in about half of the area there, since i have up to 6" to play with, or just forget about it and get out what i can lifewise.
 

larryndana

Active Member
looks great, i like the egg crate on the sides of the baffles. and the tall egg crate to keep everything in your fuge area. great design, came out looking great.
 

renogaw

Active Member
Originally Posted by larryndana
looks great, i like the egg crate on the sides of the baffles. and the tall egg crate to keep everything in your fuge area. great design, came out looking great.
thanks :) i couldn't figure out a good way preventing gravity from pulling down those baffles, and it was hard to figure out a way to get the baffles evenly spaced. the 5x5 crate filled both those needs perfectly.
the tall egg crate is mainly a way to keep the chaeto in the fuge area, and prevent stuff from getting all over the place when i turn my pumps off for tank maintenance. I'm not sure it's all that needed, but we'll see :)
 

larryndana

Active Member
i may steal your baffle-egg crate idea, doing it like that sounds good to me.
of course, i'm not sure when i'm gonna finish mine.
 

baloo6969

Member
genious. First of all this is a awsome design. Iwas trying to figure out how i was going to partition my 29 up tonight...i have my idea now. What thickness glass did you use? i think those eg crates are 1/2 each block and it looks like it cut them inhalf, so i guess 1/4 inch...awsome design.
 

baloo6969

Member
where on this design would you put a ATO switch? right at the level of the 4th(from left) baffle? u used 1/4 inch glass right?
 

sign guy

Active Member
Originally Posted by baloo6969
where on this design would you put a ATO switch? right at the level of the 4th(from left) baffle? u used 1/4 inch glass right?
what size sump and the ato should go in the same chamber as the pump
 

renogaw

Active Member
yes, i used 1/4" baffles. I got one extra, and it came out to about $45.
thanks for the kind words and glad i could inspire people. that will be .25 cents if you use my ideas :p
 

renogaw

Active Member
life has put this project on hold, but the questions still come up i guess.:
1) will my mag 5 still be an ok return pump for this? that's what i'm currently using.
2) should i mix the miracle mud from the old "fuge" and my new live sand? the miracle mud has pods burrowing in it.
 

baloo6969

Member
Originally Posted by sign guy
what size sump and the ato should go in the same chamber as the pump
same size used here...i'm going to use this design, but i need to get renogaw's address or Paypall name so i can send him his 25c's
i guess that makes the best sence, putting the ATO in the return pump's area...but my biggest concern is Overflowing...any idea's to help prevent it?
 

renogaw

Active Member
Originally Posted by baloo6969
same size used here...i'm going to use this design, but i need to get renogaw's address or Paypall name so i can send him his 25c's
i guess that makes the best sence, putting the ATO in the return pump's area...but my biggest concern is Overflowing...any idea's to help prevent it?
get an ato with a high limit. makes it so the pump turns off if the float messes up.
here's a wiring diagram i'm going to eventually try to copy.

here's the description from the person that wrote it out:
Yeah, I just used 3 DPDT relays (from Radioshack). These are the ones with a 120V contact rating and a 12VDC coil rating.
The spa timer is found at Lowes and is the 15min variety although you could use the 30min one also. It's just your standard spring loaded rotary style hot tub timer.....lets see.
The float switches are just reed style switches from: (another website so i removed the link)
The 9V power supply is just one i had around the house (AC to DC converter (9V or 12V will work).
I think that's everything? I used a couple of extension cords found ina pack of 4 at radio shack. I also put it all in a project box (also found at radio shack) and connected the floats to the box with some connectors from radioshack.
 
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