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Not in my opinion but I am noted for being conservative. Ammonia of zero just means that you tank is consuming ammonia faster than it is being produced. At this time your system isn't producing much ammonia. If it were me I would start ghost feeding tiny amounts of food once ammonia drops...

You can't just reduce the military. You need to reduce the military's mission which currently includes world cop plus fighting two enemies simultaneously. Reduce the mission and the military will reduce on its own.

It resembles a Nassarius snail. That would be a good find. I'd need to see the opening with the snail retracted for a positive ID though.

I had 7 for about 8 years. Then they started to disappear one by one.

In addition to only being able to keep a small fish, the fish also must be docile. Neon Goby, Clown Goby, Barnacle Blenny, etc. The type of small fish that is usually perched and not swimming.

Well, my initial guess was wrong. You could bump up Calcium and Carbonate a bit and that may help a little. In my experience GSP do best in a turbulent waterflow.

Is the Alkalinity measurement in Meq/L or dKH?

What are you using to maintain Alkalinity? Sorry for the odd questions. It helps to have the big picture when trying to diagnose something like this. With what you have given my initial guess is that the Torch is having trouble growing and is therefore dying. They need to grow continually or...

What is the Alkalinity? Are you using a Seachem PH booster? What are you feeding the Torch?

Can you list the actual water parameters? I've heard "awesome" before but that has no meaning as everyone's awesome differs. Most interesting to me is Temp, Calcium, Alkalinity, and Magnesium. Salinity is also of interest but once I know the temperature I can derive it from the S.G. you...

My guess would be cavitation. This is caused by the intake to the pump being restricted. Are there any filters that need to be cleaned? To test my guess (yes, just a guess) you can restrict the output side of the pump to see if the bubbles go away.

Do what's comfortable to you. If it were my tank I would change 50% of the water to get ammonia down below 0.5ppm. That said, 5 gallons is better than 0 gallons ;)

I'm just saying that's what I would do. In my opinion ammonia levels above 0.5ppm harm the more delicate animals residing in live rock. These same animals start dying above 1.0ppm.

I only see one picture. It's a small Fireworm. They are quite beneficial but they have rows of bristles (commonly called Bristleworm) that can puncture skin and cause irritation. Other types of these worms can be mildly venomous and cause pain similar to a bee sting. Just don't touch them...

Chitons are an ancient creature so perhaps they have the ability to eat Cyanobacter. They are not going to go out onto your sand bed and get rid of it for you though.

Since you have corals in the tank do not play with the Calcium levels. Try maintaining a higher Magnesium level while harvesting it to see if that helps.

I doubt it. Cyano usually inhabits the sand bed. Chitons will only be on sand if they are about to die.

It's Neomeris sp. It's a calcarious macro algae. Since it's calcarious you can use this to your advantage to reduce it. Test your Magnesium level. Then add a magnesium supplement to get it over 1300ppm. Don't do this blindly, you need to test it. That should stop the growth. Meanwhile...

It's an animal commonly called a "Chiton". They eat algae and will not harm your reef.