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I Don't think it'll necessarily cook it, just mess around with the hanging height to get it just right....

sounds like a loose fan shroud or something... Take it out and tighten any screws you see, or run the fan on while looking at it to see where the noise is coming from. As for water level, I don't have much experience with those but it seems like its a topoff issue like bang guy said

All 3... literally... It not being happy will be caused by not enough swimming room... It will then become stressed due to the fact it isn't happy that it can't swim, and it will subsequently get sick if its stressed long enough (i.e. if not moved to a much larger tank).

The order shouldn't be too much of a problem, but to avoid conflict I'd try to add both butterfly's at once (2nd to last additions) and the yellow tang as your final addition... However, be careful with your bioload... Your talking about having 9 fish in a 55 gal, 2 being butterflies and 1 tang...

bump... anyone out there with one?

A large species (pomacanthus) angel will do fine when they are small, I'd say up to about 5-6"... After that, your going to get into trouble. Also, most if not all pomacanthus angel species aren't considered reef safe, they'll nip at or even eat your corals, inverts etc...

bump... I know someone out there can answer this question!

+1 good idea guys

You could try to add an acrylic sheet, but in your case I'd just get a hang on back model... I don't know how comfortable I'd be putting rocks and macroalgae whose purpose is solely to GROW to reduce nutrients in the water in the area where water needs to be flowing unrestricted. All I forsee...

I must have been posting just as msch1999 was lol. Yup let us know how it goes.

hmm... When you changed those bulbs, was that about the time you started seeing this algae pop up?? Anyway, I don't see a terrible problem with your lighting schedule, but what I would do is cut back on the lighting as much as possible. i.e. just give the tank what it requires for light for a...

How long are your lights on per day and more importantly, how old are your bulbs? Also, you may want to crank water changes up to 10 gallons if your only doing it once per month, that could be a big help right off the bat.

Find out what your overflow's rate of flow is in GPH... take a gallon milk jug/5 gallon water bucket and time with a stopwatch how long it takes to fill up... Then do the math and get a pump with a gph closest to that number. Or, you can always control the output of your return pump with a PVC...

Yes, if you stir up the live sand bed too much you can cause an ammonia/nitrate spike... Just be carefuly and you can siphon some stuff off, just don't create a sand storm... As for your algae issues, what are your water parameters? What type of water do you use for topoffs/ water changes? How...

Need one of these for a sump return pump (or one with an equivalent flow rating of about 700-800gph). The aquaclear 70 I have does the job but its wimpy....

Here's a question I've been trying to answer for myself...When I add topoff water to my sump (RO/DI) should I add ph buffer to the new water to bring it up to 8.2?? Or, should the leftover salt from the evaporated water in the tank provide the ph buffer for the RO/DI water? I usually don't add...

+1 for the API Ca test.... That dang thing keeps telling me my calcium is 1200ppm..... and ummmm its not LOL to say the least. I don't even dose, have a 55gal and do 5 gal water changes weekly with Oceanic salt... I highly doubt a brand like oceanic has screwed up there element additions that...

check your other posting about this, I answered your question

Live rock doesn't get sick. what are your water parameters? No purple algae growth is just a sign of something else going on in your system like another algae out competing the purple coralline, your live rock is fine...

dont worry, i dont think these systems are NEARLY as touchy as some people make them out to be...