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If he is, he's evolved very well :) I've had mine for about two years, I maintain about 1.026@80 degrees.

Originally Posted by PerfectDark Unfortunatly your method of measure is inacurate. Watts per gal typically cannot be used to determine weather or not your lighting is sufficient to house certain species with high light requirements. Intensity in your bulbs is what you are looking for. T-5's are...

That's what I use on my 125, seems to work well when it's super clean.

The reactor will get rid of your phosphate problem, but any fertilizer can grow hair algae, such as nitrates. I personally enjoy my dragon goby, he's a cool sifter.

Didn't you also have a problem with a linkia in a 36G tank established for 2 months? You're really rushing your tank, and this only leads to disaster. The #1 thing this hobby teaches is patience, you were no where near ready for a star and certainly not ready for an anemone. Slow down, get...

Funny you should ask The upside down jelly, Cassiopeia xamachana, is not going to be a wise idea for the reef tank. These animals are found connected to the roots of mangroves in tropical waters; the flow of a reef tank is not going to be good for them I would think. They will feed on plankton...

Two skimmers would be fine, I personally just use one.

Yup, you don't use powerheads to drain into a fuge/sump, you always use gravity to feed them. Get a cheap overflow box and a nice mag drive for the return.

Get nassarius (sp) snails, really cool. They hide under the sand and then raise up to feed, kinda've like zombies.

I use the minute rule as well, but I feed two to three times daily, hence my fish are fat.

I dropped a bunch on my aqua medic fixture, not from you know where. I was afraid of just this problem; crappy lights. I also notice that for a 15K bulb, they look awful white. Post some pics when your new bulbs arrive. I put in 14K Phoenix bulbs in mine and they are freakin' sweet.

Here's some more knowledge than Plankton doesn't refer to an organism; it refers to a method of living in the water column. Any organism which cannot swim against the current is considered to be plankton; it is from the Greek work meaning a drifter or a wanderer. By contrast, fish and other...

Carbon is really a must if you have leathers, these guys can muck up the water, esp. xenia it seems, so it's a good idea to run it. I have it in a fluval fx5 filter and my toadstool is massive, long polyps with bright white tips. Hair algae is usually the result of too many nutrients in the...

So you going reef with this tank?

You mean the crushed coral? Get a syphon, such as the Python.

It will start to disintegrate when it dies; legs may also come off.

Well, first raise the temp, reefs are usually around 80 degrees, but I digress. First and foremost, what fish and other animals are in there. If you have nitrate, it is because you have waste in there somewhere. Don't dose ANYTHING you don't test for, and only then dose if you are low. Your...

Standard fluorescent = no coral; don't even try, it just won't make it regardless of how close to the bulb. Standard output light is just of no value, the light can't be converted into energy. Your first step is to upgrade. I'd recommend some simple PC lighting for your, T5 if you don't mind...

Cyano does indeed spread rapidly given the right conditions; it is a primordial creature, a bacteria with the capability of photosynthesis (origin of the chloroplast). It can quickly get out of control if you are not careful, even from a small amount. The best way to fight it is of course to...

Yeah, be careful, always ask, this is a good site for information. If you have a diatom issue, which is typically in a tank as new as yours, it will go away on its own. I never had this issue since I use Phos Gard, which removes silicates, which are needed by diatoms to form their skeletons...