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You do not need to have a bulb in the socket to run it.

I ave found that water change water makes great lawn fertilizer. You just have to dilute it so the salt does not kill the grass.

I'd personally lose the mechanical filtration all together and just use live rock. For a 30g tank you'd only need 30-60 lbs. to provide adequate filtrations. Hang a small protein skimmer, but no other mechanical filtration would be necessary.

Looks like diatoms. How old is the set-up? Have you tried re-positioning a power head to blow across that area? Could just be the result of a dead area of flow.

Depending on the type of Xenia, water parameters, predators, etc. usually in about 2 weeks. Sometimes longer, sometimes shorter.

Anytime you have 2 identically colored fish in a small space they will show some aggressiion. Yours may already be trying to determine which one gets to be the female (fish are weird). The BTA should be fine, if it were white then I'd be nervous.

Actually if you go to Pet Kare in Governor's Square, talk to Frank for knowledge, talk to Mark for a deal. Guy will cut prices on just about everything. Premium Aquatics replaced Newark Tropicals in the same store front. it is a very new store and they are still working on getting it up and...

It's either: A. Sand that was stirred up and flowed to the wet/dry through the over-flow. B. Not sand but dietrius build-up. It's probably just sand that found it's way to the sump. You'd be amazed at what you'll find in a sump over-time.

Enjoy Buying Anything You need.

I think Opton B will be your best bet, but I would remove the cannister filter and UV steruilzer from the equation. The canister filter will just add to unnecessary maintenance, you can just fil up a filter sock with charcoal / carbon and toss it in the sump. The UV sterilizer debate rages on...

In a 55 I'd say you are adequately stocked already. I wouldn't add anymore. If you want the prettier "show" fish I'd think about removing the damsels, they're little, but mean S.O.Bs, especially as they get older. I had 2 that absolutely harassed a porcupine puffer to the point he wouldn't...

Originally Posted by sbaumann14 so i'm thinkin sump with skimmer and watch the nitrate build up and utilize biologicals like snails, crabs, n urchins to help with the ditirus removal... right? Problem with this is that the snails and crabs eat deitris which results in poo, which breaks down...

I think what he meant was there is a rule of thumb that says you should have 1 member of a CUC per 1 or 2 gallons of water. emeralds should coexist peacefully but it's your snails you'll have to worry about, if the crabs get hungry the snails make for a very slow moving snack.

You can but the ballast is not powerful enough to fire them at full output. you'll only end up with a NO light.

Keep in mind that a CUC needs something to clean-up. With the small bio-load you're probably going to want to feed the tank extra so they have something to eat.

Not much. General consensus is that unless gut loaded brine shrimp are pretty much useless. of course I've never studied the nutritional content of shrimp so i am just responding based on what I've read.

If the tank is drilled then you'll want to go with a sump/refugium idea. The reason being the more water volume you have the more stable your system. Wet/Drys just don't hold enough water to be extremely useful. As far as filters go, you really only need Live Rock as a filter, about 1-2 lbs...

Originally Posted by sawtydog cdangel0 where in DE are you located? i was born in dover and lived in smyrna for 25 yrs til i got married and moved out here to IA Currently in New Castle by the mall.

Still interested in the stand & possibly canopy.

You COULD as long as you keep them in SW while you do it. Better idea is just to take a PH and blow everything off the rocks that will come off and siphon it out while you do your water change. Scrubbing the rock will probably kill any of the little things you'd want on the rock i.e. sponges...