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Let me state a couple of other things. I do not have filtration other than the live rock and live sand. I do however have fluidized bed filters, which I swear by. Also, I think I may have caused the problem of killing the two fish by stiring the sand too deeply. Is that possible? The cloud I...

Originally Posted by rujelus22 Sorry to hijack but where do you go for fish in Carson City, I live in reno and theres only one saltwater store here and I really don't like it It's the same in Carson. I have to order everything online.

Good information. Sorry about my profile saying Las Vegas, I now live in Carson City. I'll change it right now. Does anyone know if I can correct the sand condition, or do I need to start over?

Nitrates are 5. Take my word for it, the water is perfect.

I have a 2"-3" sand bed. My tank has been up for about two years and in exceptional shape. All parameters are perfect including a balance between CAL/ALK/PH. I have great growth with all soft coral etc. My problem is the last two times I did a partial water change a fish died within two...

Thanks for the info everyone. I think I'll post another thread on how to fix my sand bed and then make a decision on which way to go.

About a year ago I remember some folks having debates over which is better. I have a sand bottom and it's been great for about two years. I now believe that the sand has become toxic and is killing my fish when it gets slightly mixed. Is there someone out there that uses a bare bottom reef...

Thanks ReefNut. I appreciate your response.

Hello everyone. Just a quick question on aging of sea water. I age my water for 1 week prior to putting it in the display tank. It is aerated to keep it mixed and stabilized. Is this a good practice still, or is it old school thought?

Adding to your list and the bare minimum would be PH, calcium, salinity, and magnesium. Be sure they are good test kits like the salifert brand. Also, don't add anything unless you're testing for it. Regular water changes will replentish most everything, especially the trace minerals.

Anyone? :help:

Are you testing for the trace minerals that you're adding? If not, I wouldn't add them. Regular water changes should do the trick. As far as dosing the kalk, I'm not real sure if the two solid months of dosing is what caused my coraline to go crazy, or if it's the fact that my tank is about 7...

Had my new orange tree sponge from SWF for a little more than a week now. I put it in a high flow area to avoid algea. Didn't work. It's starting to collect a dark colored algea on the sides that the water flow is hitting. Could it be in too much flow? The only kind of algea in my tank is...

If the tube doesn't become all mushy within a few days, chances are it's still alive. If it threw it's crown, you may not see a new one for a few weeks. I had a pencil urchin that did the same thing to a Haitian Conde. Condy didn't make it. Urchin found new home at lfs.

A resistor is used to decrease the voltage. IMO you can do it a lot easier than worring about resistors or step up transformers. If you're going to use 12 dc volt fans then check to mA rating on the fan and be sure your 12 dc volt charger matches. You can also find 120 AC volt computer fans...

If you have a 150 gallon tank and you want 20 turns per hour, multiply the two for the total flow needed. 150x20= 3000 gallons per hour. The 20 you used is turns, not percent, but you got the right idea.

Kalk is meant to just maintain your balanced levels. Also, your dkh will lower itself when adding the calcium unless your using a two-part addittive.

Yep, that explains it. I have a live sand bed of argonite though. It'll no doubt cause a dust storm if I tried to move it.

Yes of course with a couple of caviots: 1. Nothing died or no die off on live rock. 2. You don't increase your bio-load too fast in the bigger tank. Like by adding several more new fish.

Forgot to mention, be sure all of your fish choices are "reef safe."