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It doesn't really matter since you have a MH bulb in there. Two actinic's would be fine, four would also be fine. Pretty much actinic is just for looks and helps the corals glow.

If you ran all actinic on a 3ft tank with only one MH then the ends may have a tint of blue but IMO I'd probably run all actinic. I run 2x250w MH's and 2x55w Actinic PC's which isn't nearly what you run but IMO I don't have enough.

I have a clown goby and I saw him swim up to one of my SPS corals quick and then swim back to the rock. The coral had red bugs about a month ago so its bleached from the medication, polyps extension is poor but is there. I'm wondering if my goby is nipping at the coral or if its just still...

I'd just turn the flow as low as you can get it and still have the media gently fluidized. Too low flow for too long will turn it into a brick.

I hate to tell you but when you're bowl feeding him he probably isn't getting any food. Forcing that much food on him after disrupting him by removing him as you can see will close up therefore probably not circulating much if any water through its cavity. I'd suggest just dosing the whole tank...

i've got both 10k's and 20k's on my 75, one side 20k and one side 10k. The 20's are blue but IMO not too blue, the 10's are extremely white, I've questioned the 10k's ability of coloring up corals.

They key is if you're worried about RTN is to run LOW FLOW not LOW VOLUME of media. The reason is the media can absorb "x" amount of phosphate so a small amount of Rowa can still absorb quite a bit of phosphate given enough flow. The phosphate absorbtion is controlled by the volume of water in...

Russianspy, so right now you're using the epoxy for attaching rocks or for attaching frags.

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They produce very little waste because typically they don't eat anything you add to the tank. They eat detrius which is produced by your fish, they also eat algae which is a product of feeding your fish.

Bristle worms will NOT kill anything, they will however eat anything dead and possible anything badly injured, they may eat a clam that has a damage and infected foot.

I've got a small flat rock that will be "its" rock and if I want to move the coral I will move the entire rock, for now I'm leaving the rock on the bottom of the tank till the clam attaches to the rock.

Should I be ok to just dose the reccomended dose of DT's, to the prefer to be fed during the day or night. And lastly should I turn off my Euroreef before dosing the DT's. Will the bottom of the tank be ok while its small, I heard when the get bigger the get 100% dependent on lighting and may...

I got a maxima today and its about 2" to 2 1/2" long. I need to know how long it will take till it attaches its foot to the rock I placed it on. I also bought a bottle of DT's today to feed it, whats the best way to feed it, right now its on the bottom of my 75, I have 2x250w MH's.

You can't use play sand unless its aragonite based which most aren't. IMO you best bet is to just go to the fish store and buy some Caribasea brand sand. LS is not required but is nice if you can afford it.

Ok steve time to confess, so how many times have you fallen into the tank while vacuuming the center of the tank. I finally get the return pump thing, I forgot about letting it drain back before plugging the intake pipe to remove for cleaning/replacement.

For a skimmer I'd go with a remora run off a maxijet 1200. Lighting depends on what you want to keep, it could be anywhere from PC's to a single 175w MH bulb.

I'm 99% sure that ReefCrystals is just IO with higher cal and alk levels thus they are equally good but -- is better if you have a reef and want higher levels. Oceanic is very good also but is somewhat new on the market.

So steve when you remove the pump how do you keep water from water syphoning back from the return lines.