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Below are the readings from my tank that has been cycling for 8 weeks. Ammonia 0 all with Salifert Testing Nitrites 0 Nitrates 35 (is this too high) Salinity 1.0245 Alkalinity 7.0 Phosphate 0 PH 8.07 (is this too low)...

My tank is in its third week of cycling. There seems to be brown algae forming on the glass and also the uncured live rock. Do I need to remove it or should I just let it be and cycle? I have read that I should add silicate removing compound to the sump to clear this up. Any suggestions.

I only checked them the first week. The previous info I received is only to worry about the amm and the nits

My tank has Uncured live rock and live sand. The tank is now 11 days old. These are my readings using Salifert. Ammonia less than .5 was as high as 1.0 Nitrites are 4.0 highest level so far Nitrate is 100. highest level so far Salinity is 1.0262 High...

My ammonia is now 1.0 which I consider good at this stage. The only problem I am having is that I have chicken liver sponges and they've changed color from brown to white. All else appears to be ok.

I have been cycling my tank for two weeks now with uncured LR. I've been running my lights for 7 hours per day. I would rather have an algae bloom than loose all of the good things on my rock. If I get a bloom, I will add a clean up crew.

I would like to get advice on protein skimmer and VHO lights ON or OFF During Cycling. There is presently large amounts of orange algae and even sponge and coral (it came on the rock) . Thank you

With the live rock, should I continue to run the lights 10 hours per day. I also have two small emerald crabs. Thanks

Yes, I have been using a protein skimmer. Am I correct that you are suggesting that I shut down the skimmer and not worry about the PH? Thanks in advance

My uncured live rock and live sand have been in the tank for 5 days now. Yesterday, I did a 10G water change. How do these numbers look and what if anything should I do? PH 7.96 Ammonia 1.0 Salinity 1.024 Alkalinity 8.0 Phosphate 0 Nitrite 1.5 Any suggestions would be helpful

The live rock had sponge already on it. It could also be orange coralline. I am new to this scene. There are no fish in the tank as I am just cycling it. The ammonia level is 1.0 so I am doing a small water change.. I just don't know if I should scrape off the white or leave it alone during...

I have a new tank with uncured live rock. The sponge is turning white which I guess means it is dying off. To remove it, do I need to remove the rock and scrape it off or can I scrape it off in the tank and let the Protein skimmer remove it as it floats in the tank?

Live Rock is loaded with coral and sponges. If there is no spike yet, could I be out of the woods? Live Rock is not cured. Came out of the gulf this week from Tampa Bay Saltwater.

Since I need a new PH meter, what is the difference between the monitor and the controller?

Looks like my meter is not working Properly. Distilled water is giving me reading of 7.7 to 8.4. Need to order a new one.

The Ph pen is by Shindengen that can be used for testing soil or water. I used a liquid to calibrate the pen to 7.0. The water that went thru RODI has been sitting in a container for 24 hours with no airation. Could the lack of airation be the problem?

Setting up a new 46 gallon tank. Have not added anything to the water. I'm using an electronic PH pen that was calibrated to 7.0. Sink water from the well as 8.4. After running the water thru a 5 stage RO,DI unit, the PH is 8.8. What gives?

To avoid overexposure, should I use only 2 or 3 bulbs at the beginning and add over time?

I have a 46 G bow front. My lighting on order is an IceCap 660 with 4 bulbs(75W each). Two bulbs are 50/50 and the other two are actinic. Planning to set up small reef with live rock and live sand. Is 300W too much for this system?

I found my answer thru search. Thanks anyway.