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Well the ultimate in MH reflectors are the lumenarc ones, and then the Reef Optics, but they are $$, I have had good sucess with spider reflectors.

You just wedge them into the spaces in the LR, There are some other tricks to the trade if that doesn't work, but usually just wedging them in works. The reason you don't want to permanetly attach them is beacause they need to be taken out and cleaned periodically.

You only need 200lbs of sand for a 2" sandbed.

)...HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN ON THIS SITE? 5 years 2)...HAVE YOU EVER HAD A DREAM ABOUT YOUR TANK? yeah, they are usually about something disasterous happening 3)....COUNT HOW MANY THREADS YOU HAVE STARTED. 114, I guess I don't start a lot of threads lol 4).WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST SALTWATER FISH...

There is a chiller out there for small tanks that cost about $100. Do a search for Iceprobe otherwise you are just going to have to run your AC and a fan, if you don't have the money for that then you need to set aside your plans for a while. I know you aren't listening to people who say it...

What are the dimensions of your tank and what type of corals are you hoping to keep? If your tank is 36" long or less and less than 24" tall then you can use one MH over the tank, generally the recommendation is one MH for every 2 feet, but if you put lower light corals on the outer edges of the...

Hutchinson- if you do not have a good reference book on saltwater aquariums I would highly recommend that you get and read one. The conscientious Marine Aquarist is a good one. It would answer these basic questions for you. You need to research the "Cycle" so you understand what is happening to...

The only treatment you can use on your tank is a reef safe type and those are pretty iffy, some people say they work, but I haven't had much luck with them.

1. Are you using a swing arm hydrometer? I will assume so, the reason you are getting fluctating levels is because of the swing arm, they get bubbles on them, you have to knock them loose and take the reading. Better yet get a refractometer, they are so much better than a hydrometer. 2. LR...

pw- if you are adding LR that has been pre-cured and you are still cycling your tank then add it to the display tank all at once. No need to add anything else to decay. As far as the clams, it really doesn't matter either way what you put in there, you just need something decaying in the water...

There is a big difference between "uncured" LR and LR that needs a "final cure". True Uncured LR is taken directly from the ocean and shipped to your house. I would personally not cycle a take with true uncured LR, just too much die off. Now getting drop shipped cured LR (stuff that is...

Your options are really endless. You can do a couple butterfly fish (heniochus are nice) Fairy wrasse, Hawfish (if you don't plan on having shrimp. One of the triggers that don't prey on cleanup crews (bursa, blue throat, niger). Squareback Anthias. shrimp/goby pair As far as inverts, you...

Well the first thing you need to do is find the source of the phosphates 1. What do you feed, how often and how much... 2. Do you have any type of sponges collecting junk in the aquarium. 3. What type of water are you using and where do you get it from (have you tested it for phosphates). If...

A picture of the tips would be helpful, White tips "can" indicate growth, it just depends on how it looks and how fast it is happening. There is of course STN and RTN, typically RTN starts from the tips and the corals can be gone in a matter of hours, most of the STN I have seen starts from...

You can request that it arrive at your house at certain day (as long as you give them plenty of time to get the order) I have done that before, ordered on a Monday and requested it not be shipped until Thursday, so I can have it when I would be home on Friday.

What Bang Guy is saying is that Refractometers actually measure salinity not the specific gravity of saltwater, there is a SG level on the refractometer that correlates with the salinity level, but you should read the Salinity level on a refractometer. And I most certainly second the opinion...

Umm no. If you are using RO/DI, distilled, or even water that has set out overnight you do not need to add any type of stress coat (dechlorinator). If you have a skimmer, adding stresscoat will make it go beserk.

Ah, well hyposalnity lowers pH and also can increase the chance of an ammonia level spiking. I would continue to do the water changes, just change water with 1.009 SG. Also be sure your pH level is where it should be. I don't think using the ammo lock is going to hurt in this situation, but...

IMO you should not use this product during cycling. It should only be used if you have an emergency ammonia situation in a established tank. If you have fish in a cycling tank you are better off, doing large frequent water changes to keep ammonia levels down, or removing the fish.

There are two different species of Heniochus, one will devour all corals in its path, the other "might" leave them alone. Heniochus diphreutes, can be okay in a reef Heniochus acuminatus, will decimate a reef Copperbanded will pick on any feather dusters, possibly polyps and other corals, and...