110 gal Mixed Reef Build. 180 gal System

acrylic51

Active Member
That can work.....A pattern bit has the bearing on the other end of the bit.....The bearing would be on the top side of the cutting edge closest to the shank of the bit.....Again that will work, but what that means is that the "pattern" will have to be on the inside of the tank when you make your cut....Honestly it should be a difference......You will also want to pick up some "double sided tape". You will want the double sided tape to adhere or attach the pattern to the tank.....This is another reason I'd prefer to use a pattern bit being that the pattern is on the inside of the tank as your cutting and lets say the tape would give way or move.....You honestly wouldn't know it till your cut got out of whack.....At least if the pattern was on top you would notice any shift, and you wouldn't have gravity working against you as well as far as pulling on the pattern if you know what I mean.....I've used "double sided tape" when I don't want my surfaces marred from clamps or delicate work.....In this instance your going to do, clamps aren't an option.......
Are you shopping at Lowes, HomeDepot......
 

lubeck

Active Member
I'm shopping Home Depot. I will get the pattern bit then for sure. But I'm not sure i understand. When I finally am ready to cut the two slots and my jig is perfect and I've practiced plenty of times.............how do I setup it up? This is how I envisioned it. Lay the tank down so the display side is down and the bulkheads are facing up. Somehow clamp the jig down exactly where I need to drill the first hole. Then I will drill a pre-hole with what bit? Once I have a starter hole I will place the router in the hole (already turned on?),set the router depth so it goes all the way through to the other side of the tank (front of tank) and then very slowly move the router along the jig. Does that sound right?
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lubeck http:///t/394626/new-110-gal-mixed-reef-build-this-is-going-to-be-good/40#post_3513277
I'm shopping Home Depot. I will get the pattern bit then for sure. But I'm not sure i understand. When I finally am ready to cut the two slots and my jig is perfect and I've practiced plenty of times.............how do I setup it up? This is how I envisioned it. Lay the tank down so the display side is down and the bulkheads are facing up. Somehow clamp the jig down exactly where I need to drill the first hole. Then I will drill a pre-hole with what bit? Once I have a starter hole I will place the router in the hole (already turned on?),set the router depth so it goes all the way through to the other side of the tank (front of tank) and then very slowly move the router along the jig. Does that sound right?
This is where I like the pattern bit better than the flush trim bit.......You are correct the tank will need to be laid with it's face or main viewing panel on the ground......Honestly if you can mask the front panel off.....Even though you'll lay it on something soft such as a blanket you'll find you'll put a small scratch somewhere......
You honestly won't be able to clamp it down.....Clamps are handy, but 9 out of 10 times the clamp is usually in the way somewhere;somehow and makes doing a complete cut in 1 fluid motion hard to impossible at times.....This is where and why I suggested when your at HomeDepot go into the tape section or the paint/hardware and look for double sided tape.....If you can't find it ask them they will know exactly where it is.....With the use of the double sided tape there will be NO need for any type of clamps......You'll apply the tape to either the jig itself first or to the tank surface where the jig will be mounted....It will probably be easier to mount it first to the jig.......Leave the other tape backing on the other side of the tape till your are sure you can line your jig/pattern up easily......Once your sure you know the exact location, and a couple dry runs, make sure the back of the tank is clean, dust free, and pull the tape backing off and set the jig/pattern into place.....I usually press it into place and give it a firm pressing just to make sure it's in place and of course you do the usually shake;jiggle test just to make sure you have no movement.....I like to apply the tape to all 4 surfaces of the jig/pattern that will contact the tank surface......
With that said yes I would then drill my pilot hole.....At this point you'll want to put the router into place with the router bit going through the hole itself that you've already drilled through the tank......Key is there really isn't a dire need to worry yourself crazy about the exact depth of the bit per say....The thing your looking for and want to make sure is the bit is long enough to go completely through the panel your cutting....The key thing you are looking for is to make sure the bearing rides nicely within the pattern jig......Basically your jig will be a rectangular panel with the slot cutout in the center of the panel.....this cut out will be nothing but an exact duplicate of what the back of the tank will look like.....The bit and bearing will ride inside the cut out you made in the jig.....Again the key is making sure the bearing rides nicely in that slot. I like to ride my bearing midway in my jig......I don't measure it out or anything, but a quick glimpse of the the eye you'll be able to tell if the bearing is centered on the diameter of your pattern.....You want to check this with the router sitting flush on top of the jig.....It might sound stupid me saying this, but the excitement takes over and your off a bit.....Well.....You get where I'm going.....Measure twice, cut once!!!!!!!!
Another important area is your jig/pattern.....The jig cut needs to be "PERFECT".....Any wave, mis cut, bobble, will be transferred to your tank cut......If you have little imperfections in your jig, re cut until it's perfect or depending how bad, maybe a little sanding smoothing , a little wood putty, whatever, but take the time and make it perfect......
If I get off my lazy a$$ I'll take the good camera out to the garage, and show you a couple jigs I've thrown together and how they've made life easy and the ease of cutting they make.....I've been working on my control box for the fish room, and I've been getting a little fancy making face plate covers for my Apex Eb8 and also a cover for the display screen for the Apex.....There was no way I could cut it free hand, but a couple cheap jigs, made all the difference in the world to the finish product.....I'll sneak you a couple pics.......
 

lubeck

Active Member
Thanks. This helps. We will see tomorrow when I start practicing Ive got to work till noon and then I will start playing around with the router
 

acrylic51

Active Member
The bearings are the same, but the difference between a pattern bit and a flush trim bit is the location of the bearing......Yes both bits will work....The difference is your pattern or jig will be on the inside of the tank.....This will mean you will be relying solely on double sided tape to hold the pattern/jig firmly in place.....Using a pattern router bit the pattern/jig will be on the side your cutting from......
Here is a link to a store that sells them......
www.woodcraft.com

This is from the HomeDepot site.....They should get out of the tool business if they can't properly label router bits, but this is a pattern bit that they label a flush trim bit
Select to compare
QUICK VIEW
$22.97
Diablo 1/2 in. x 1 in. Carbide Top-Bearing Flush Trim Router Bit
 

acrylic51

Active Member

This is a good bit you have here......the only difference is you want the bearing that's on the end of the bit on the opposite end of the bit.....You basically want the bearing on the shank/shaft side of the bit.....
 

lubeck

Active Member
Is this it? They labeled it wrong then. Shawn I'm frustrated because I'm at a stand still I cannot make a pattern without an edge guide or at least haven't figured out. I can't even practice making cuts. I tried to just make a few cuts and any movement makes it go off a straight line. Until I figure out how to make a straight line I can't do anything.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
That my friend is a pattern bit......A real woodworking place would have know exactly what you were after....The other you had pictured is a flush trim bit.....You would use something like the first bit you pictured routing the edges of an acrylic sump or tank when everything was glued up.....Again they both would work, but this bit IMO will make life a little easier.....
 

acrylic51

Active Member
I will give you a quick run down on how I make my jigs......I have a couple I just made up but no pics on the computer, but I'll shoot you the pics to your phone......
Anyways!!!!!!
I either go to Lowes, HomeDepot and I usually use 1"x1" poplar boards.......You can get them in 2' and 4' sections.....Not super expensive. There are cheaper alternatives, but I can usually get straight pieces to do what I want this way. Another question....Do you have a nail gun or access to a nail gun......
 

lubeck

Active Member
Lots of pics busy day today. Got a few things today from the store. Some for the closed loop and some for the bean overflow But best of all I made my jig and cut the overflow out on the tank tonight. Take a look










Now I need to clean it up and start planing the overflow box!!!!
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Very COOL.....Very cool indeed my friend.....Now the fun begins......You get to build your overflow box......You thought the cutting was easy......Wait till you start gluing up....Check your yellow pages, and being your out in Ca....You definitely should have a local plastics dealer that can get you what you need for the overflow box......
 

lubeck

Active Member
I'm on it Shawn. I've decided to go with the 3-1" bulkheads on the back panel of the overflow box. I still need to do exact measuring since I have the one return to contend with from the closed loop. This will limit the height of the overflow but I'm not concerned about it, it's just less drop the water has to fall which is good with me.
I already got a estimate from Tap plastics which is right down the road from me. The original quote is was for 1/4" acrylic for $130
 

lubeck

Active Member
Pic Update didn't get much done this weekend at all. I did manage to bring the tank inside for the first time to see what it would look like in its final resting spot. It looks really good I can't wait to get water in it but its going to be a while, funds are pretty low and will be for a while.
Anyway. I still need to figure out a few very important pieces of equipment
What skimmer?
What return pump?
Closed loop pump? Dart hybrid I'm leaning towards
LIGHTING????? I almost considered going back to MH!! I'm thinking of going with 3 radions G2. It won't be able to be controlled through the apex but it has all the ramping capabilities on its own
Refugium? Should I? If I do, I want to be sure it's actually setup so it is functional. Like should there be live rock,DSb , macro? All the above , only selection or combination of these?
Algae scrubber? Could this replace the refugium? Or should I run both?
I have decide to kill all my live rock and bleach acid bath all of it.

 

novahobbies

Well-Known Member
WOW, you have been busy my friend! Much more than I was this weekend....all I managed to do was cut some aluminum for DIY LED heat sinks. This tank is looking great, and may I say good job on the jig!
 

lubeck

Active Member
Hey thanks. I wish I had the knowledge and tools to do a DIY led setup. I'm leaning towards the radions for now but we will see.
 
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