110 gal Mixed Reef Build. 180 gal System

acrylic51

Active Member
Bob......That's looking sexy!!!!!!

Honestly the "welding" portion is going to be super easy.......First piece of advice I'll give you is when your ready to "glue" wipe your edges or surfaces down with denatured alcohol......Do you have an air compressor or canned air......This is also very helpful in a nice clean joint.....
 

lubeck

Active Member
I couldn't wait till tomorrow morning. I ended up welding the pieces together and I totally screwed up the first weld which was the side. Even though I put a 90 angle up to it and made it flush to the bottom piece it must have moved forward a bit about two millimeters. Crap!!!!!! In addition being too far forward it is leaning inward ever so slightly. I will say the rest of the welds went very well. I ended up sanding the sides with 2500 grit. As far as I can see I didn't see any air bubbles but there were a few gaps in a few areas. I made sure the corners were clean and I think they came out pretty well but I am nervous about the side I started on. I took some pics I will need some advice on how to get the 2 mm edge flush with the back of the tank I'm also curious about the air compressor.
Would it be okay to weld to the tank tomorrow ???
Look where the towel is. That's we're the bottom and the side meet. There is a 2 mm or less difference



Look at the height difference.


 

acrylic51

Active Member
Doesn't look that bad Bob......I had told you to hit me up.....I was on "puke patrol" and would have enjoyed the break......
The corner or side your referring to as "bad" as you referring to the pic where it looks like it's pushed in a bit.......I really can't tell from the pics, but would need clearer pics to actually take a good look at them.....The biggest question is are the joints pretty much bubble free......I remember you mentioning something about a gap somewhere and would like to see a really clear pic of the area in question......Also a really clear; closeup pic of the area you mention about being "pushed in". I think I see where your talking about, but want a closer look with another pic if possible......
I did see that you used tape to hold the pieces together it appears.....I've never had any luck with using tape to hold pieces together while joining them......As far as pieces moving.......It's more about practice and feel......I see you had your squares in the pic. When you went to glue the pieces in place did you leave the square in place while you glued......I always leave my squares in place as I glue and that's all I use to keep my pieces from moving.....Now with thicker, heavier material I do use jigs/clamps to keep things from moving.....On my squares I use for smaller pieces and projects you need to notch out the corner so you can run a continuous weld on the piece....I'm also curious as to which side of the joint you ran the solvent.....You mentioned it moved and I'm curious as from what side you shot the WeldOn from......

Are you referring to the side panel sticking out just a hair.........If that's the case is it a consistent overhang the length of the overflow box.......

The chip sucks.....Looks like that end panel sits inward just a hair as well.....Chip shouldn't be an issue. I do see in the pic that you used a good bit of solvent.......I can see the run off down the edge of the bottom panel. From looking at this pic I think I confirmed what I thought......Did you apply the solvent from the outside of the box instead of from inside.......

This joint or pic doesn't have me scratching my head a bit......The far right of the pic I can see part of the problem with the edge is the joint wasn't totally "clean".....Minute dust that you wouldn't see with the naked eye......Even when I use compressed air you can still get minute dust at times.......The real concern in my mind is further down the joint.....Not sure if it's the picture or the joint.......The joint looks black and then goes to grey/silver look.....Need a better pic to confirm if it's a good joint or if it's dry.....From this angle of the pic it appears dry and that is concerning......Concerning being that the joint starts out black and then has that "dry" look and then starts to go black again......
Pictures, Images and Photos" src="http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh542/lubecky1/B1E3E52F-3C36-41D8-B7FC-60DF5F6F16A0-519-00000055806FC36E_zps17ba100a.jpg" />
The dreaded height difference.....Looks like their saw might have moved or they cut the pieces at different times.....Either way.....you could take it back to Tap and have them run it through the jointer to level it out........If not not entirely important other than a minor issue that probably only you will ever notice or now.......

All in all looks pretty good........Call me when you get time......
 

lubeck

Active Member
I will say I did run the solvent on the inside of the joint throughout. Where I saw certain gaps I tried applying from the outside. I'm going to go see how I did and get some better pics. All I want is it to hold water.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Take a deep breath......I'm sure you'll be fine....Looking forward to an update as to if it's the back wall of the tank or the overflow panel as we talked about......
 

lubeck

Active Member
It's the back wall of the tank. I went and bought some clamps tonight. Not going to be able to mess with it for a few days I'm having to to put a lot of pressure where the side panel and back panel meet on the tank. I have to push down pretty hard to get the box to go flush to the back of the tank..without the clamps I bought it wouldn't be flush. I'm worried that the solvent won't be able to get in? How will I know before its too late?
 

acrylic51

Active Member
How much bowing is there in the back panel.....I don't remember off the top of my head, but is the tank euro braced with cross bracing......
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Hmmmm went back and looked at some older pics, and it is cross braced......We'll have to talk on the phone when you get a chance......
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Sorry should have asked.....was the bowing consistent the height of the back panel or just in a certain area.....
 

lubeck

Active Member
I'm not sure if the bow goes the entire height of the tank. It is only in two spots really the far left side and the far right side. The gap is worse on the right side at about 2/8". I took some pics but they didn't come out very good. It's hard to get a good grip because of the braces. I can't really maneuver the clamps.
 

lubeck

Active Member
Would you go water blaster 10,000 at 2600 gph $279- or Reeflo Snapper/dart hybrid 2600/3600 at $314
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Bob not sure the clamps are what you'll want to use.....Probably have to use the method I described to you on the phone Sunday about using the supports from inside the DT....Having to apply that much pressure from the outside wouldn't allow the solvent to flow......When you get ready to mock things up as time permits call me and we'll go through a couple things before hand....Might have to change solvents.....Worse case I will box up my WeldOn 40 and ship it to you for this job.......

Pumps.....Really comes down to personal choice I think.....Both are decent pumps.....Depends really if you want a submersible pump or external.....WaterBlaster will definitely consume less electricity, but on the other hand if your planning on a manifold system the extra from the Reeflo might better suit your application and needs......Is everything going to be contained under the tank or located remotely......
 

lubeck

Active Member
Still trying to convince the wife to take over part of the laundry room. I'm most likely going to use the laundry room for something. I would like to keep the holes in the wall to a minimum.
 

sweatervest13

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lubeck http:///t/394626/new-110-gal-mixed-reef-build-this-is-going-to-be-good/80#post_3515839
Still trying to convince the wife to take over part of the laundry room. I'm most likely going to use the laundry room for something. I would like to keep the holes in the wall to a minimum.
LOL... I might be the only other person reading every post on this thread, but I find it very interesting. I have no advice to offer on all the acrylic work, you are in very good hands with Acrylic.
I can weigh in on using the laundry room for a partial fish room... DO IT!!!. You will not be sorry!! You just need to get the wife to get on board with you using it for a little something, then you can blow it out after.

When I set up my system I planned on using under the stand for all the equipment. BUT... The sump barley fit and maintenance would have been next to impossible. I was fortunate to have a decent sized storage closet next to the cove I planned for the tank. One 4"x6" cut later and I had a fish room. I love it now. I built a sump stand and table extra high for easy service of all the equipment. Built shelves, and have a ton of room for a frag system and tons of storage for all my fish stuff. There is no way I could have got all the equipment that I run now under the DT stand.
Promise her the moon or anything that will let you get into that laundry room. You will not regret it.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by sweatervest13 http:///t/394626/new-110-gal-mixed-reef-build-this-is-going-to-be-good/80#post_3515846
LOL... I might be the only other person reading every post on this thread, but I find it very interesting. I have no advice to offer on all the acrylic work, you are in very good hands with Acrylic.
I can weigh in on using the laundry room for a partial fish room... DO IT!!!. You will not be sorry!! You just need to get the wife to get on board with you using it for a little something, then you can blow it out after.

When I set up my system I planned on using under the stand for all the equipment. BUT... The sump barley fit and maintenance would have been next to impossible. I was fortunate to have a decent sized storage closet next to the cove I planned for the tank. One 4"x6" cut later and I had a fish room. I love it now. I built a sump stand and table extra high for easy service of all the equipment. Built shelves, and have a ton of room for a frag system and tons of storage for all my fish stuff. There is no way I could have got all the equipment that I run now under the DT stand.
Promise her the moon or anything that will let you get into that laundry room. You will not regret it.
Agree.....Take the laundry room......I wouldn't even ask, just start building.......

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lubeck
http:///t/394626/new-110-gal-mixed-reef-build-this-is-going-to-be-good/80#post_3515839
Still trying to convince the wife to take over part of the laundry room. I'm most likely going to use the laundry room for something. I would like to keep the holes in the wall to a minimum.
Just start taking it over......She only needs enough room for the washer/dryer and to fold clothes
 

lubeck

Active Member
Lol. You guys are freaking hilarious. I need to find a compromise because there is a lot of cat crap (literally) and stuff I would need to repurpose. More to come.
 

lubeck

Active Member
Bob not sure the clamps are what you'll want to use.....Probably have to use the method I described to you on the phone Sunday about using the supports from inside the DT....Having to apply that much pressure from the outside wouldn't allow the solvent to flow......When you get ready to mock things up as time permits call me and we'll go through a couple things before hand....Might have to change solvents.....Worse case I will box up my WeldOn 40 and ship it to you for this job.......

Pumps.....Really comes down to personal choice I think.....Both are decent pumps.....Depends really if you want a submersible pump or external.....WaterBlaster will definitely consume less electricity, but on the other hand if your planning on a manifold system the extra from the Reeflo might better suit your application and needs......Is everything going to be contained under the tank or located remotely......
I did use the method of putting wood on the inside of the tank to push the tank outward. That works but not where the side panel and back panel meet at the seem. That is where a gap remains but I can close it with the clamps. I'm just not sure if when I close the gap if its pinching another area too much??? I'm going to welding over the weekend once I check to see if my weld job on the box is good.
I need to make some final decisions on two pieces of equipment : return pump and skimmer. If go with the 12,000 water blaster it would be the same power as the snapper/dart. They are about the same price. What would you do? As for the skimmer. I'm leaning towards the vertex alpha 170 unless anyone has any other suggestions. My only concern is regardless of the in sump skimmer I choose I will not be able to service it much at all unless it is able to disassemble entirely. All of this is due to the narrow opening between the stand and the sump. Any opinions? I haven't completely ruled out an external skimmer
 
Top