110 gal Mixed Reef Build. 180 gal System
- Thread starter lubeck
- Start date
lubeck
Active Member
I need some sump design ideas for my 55 gal sump. Picked up today for 60. Any good reads? 48"-13"-21" dimensions.
I also got a couple coats of urethane.
I'm kinda screwed. The tank doesn't fit in the stand because of the two back panels which are glued. Any suggestions? I was thinking of cutting it out with a router and replacing once I get it in there.
I also got a couple coats of urethane.
I'm kinda screwed. The tank doesn't fit in the stand because of the two back panels which are glued. Any suggestions? I was thinking of cutting it out with a router and replacing once I get it in there.
acrylic51
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lubeck http:///t/394626/new-110-gal-mixed-reef-build-this-is-going-to-be-good/60#post_3515066
I need some sump design ideas for my 55 gal sump. Picked up today for 60. Any good reads? 48"-13"-21" dimensions.
I also got a couple coats of urethane.
I'm kinda screwed. The tank doesn't fit in the stand because of the two back panels which are glued. Any suggestions? I was thinking of cutting it out with a router and replacing once I get it in there.
Looks good!!!!!! Let that coat of poly dry 3 days, and get your hands on some micro mesh and rub the coat down with the 12,000 grit and top coat that....You'll shave in the finish trust me.........
As far as getting the tank inside the stand, I would do as your thinking.....I would take a router and totally remove them. Using the router they aren't going to fit correctly once cut out....Depending on the diameter of the bit you use they will be undersized, so my thought on that would be acquire (2) pieces about those dimensions at Lowes or HD and get your hands on a Kreg pocket jig and re install the new pieces once the sump is in place. Using the pocket holes if you ever need you can remove the screws and pop the back pieces out and remove the sump. If you decide to use the router to cut them out (my personal choice would give you the cleanest cut) your going to want a flush trim bit.....Similar to what you had bought to cut the tank, but this time the bearing on the end of the bit......
As far as ideas on the sump I'd suggest checking out Melevsreef dot com and looking through his projects.....A good source.
Originally Posted by Lubeck http:///t/394626/new-110-gal-mixed-reef-build-this-is-going-to-be-good/60#post_3515066
I need some sump design ideas for my 55 gal sump. Picked up today for 60. Any good reads? 48"-13"-21" dimensions.
I also got a couple coats of urethane.
I'm kinda screwed. The tank doesn't fit in the stand because of the two back panels which are glued. Any suggestions? I was thinking of cutting it out with a router and replacing once I get it in there.
Looks good!!!!!! Let that coat of poly dry 3 days, and get your hands on some micro mesh and rub the coat down with the 12,000 grit and top coat that....You'll shave in the finish trust me.........
As far as getting the tank inside the stand, I would do as your thinking.....I would take a router and totally remove them. Using the router they aren't going to fit correctly once cut out....Depending on the diameter of the bit you use they will be undersized, so my thought on that would be acquire (2) pieces about those dimensions at Lowes or HD and get your hands on a Kreg pocket jig and re install the new pieces once the sump is in place. Using the pocket holes if you ever need you can remove the screws and pop the back pieces out and remove the sump. If you decide to use the router to cut them out (my personal choice would give you the cleanest cut) your going to want a flush trim bit.....Similar to what you had bought to cut the tank, but this time the bearing on the end of the bit......
As far as ideas on the sump I'd suggest checking out Melevsreef dot com and looking through his projects.....A good source.
lubeck
Active Member
Thanks Shawn. I actually need to put another 2 coats of poly on. The first two were a stain poly mix. I'm not sure about the 12000 grit? I bought some 2500 grit I got at tap plastics I was using to get the burs off the stand It worked well. I won't be able to work on it till next weekend prob
I'm really not comfortable building the overflow box. The best I can do is make sure I do a great job at welding it onto the tank. I will prob have tap plastics take care of it. Ie cut, weld and cut the three holes for the bulkheads for the bean overflow. For this I will still love to see a video on how to weld. Since I have the sump now I will prob work on that for a while. I wish I had more money. Lol.
I'm really not comfortable building the overflow box. The best I can do is make sure I do a great job at welding it onto the tank. I will prob have tap plastics take care of it. Ie cut, weld and cut the three holes for the bulkheads for the bean overflow. For this I will still love to see a video on how to weld. Since I have the sump now I will prob work on that for a while. I wish I had more money. Lol.
lubeck
Active Member
Still undecided on a few things and looking for some opinions/experiences.
Return pump? 1200 net return is what I'm looking for. Could go as high as 2000
Protein skimmer? My limit is only it can be no wider than the 55 gal sump which is 13". Height may play a factor. The stand is 28" and the sump is 21". My concern is when I build the sump I need to make sure I don't box it in too much that I can't pull it out for maintenance Does that mean I only have 7" of clearance to pull the skimmer out? Unless I go external?
Sump design? Haven't figured it out yet but I know I want a large fuge section and a small return section. Do I build the sump around the skimmer?
Lighting?
Aqua scape ? I was thinking of three islands using PVC to support. I want to make I eliminate as much shadowing as possible for coral placement though.
Manifold. I am planning on adding a manifold to the closed loop which is currently 5 returns. I will be adding 5 additional outlets for water changes, carbon reactors, gfo reactor, down the road calcium reactor and a spare. The CL will be a gold dart which is a 2" intake and 1.5" output. The manifold will be 1.5" with 1" bushings. Do you think every CL outlet should have a true union ball valve ? Is it necessary?
Overflow box - this deserves a separate post
Return pump? 1200 net return is what I'm looking for. Could go as high as 2000
Protein skimmer? My limit is only it can be no wider than the 55 gal sump which is 13". Height may play a factor. The stand is 28" and the sump is 21". My concern is when I build the sump I need to make sure I don't box it in too much that I can't pull it out for maintenance Does that mean I only have 7" of clearance to pull the skimmer out? Unless I go external?
Sump design? Haven't figured it out yet but I know I want a large fuge section and a small return section. Do I build the sump around the skimmer?
Lighting?
Aqua scape ? I was thinking of three islands using PVC to support. I want to make I eliminate as much shadowing as possible for coral placement though.
Manifold. I am planning on adding a manifold to the closed loop which is currently 5 returns. I will be adding 5 additional outlets for water changes, carbon reactors, gfo reactor, down the road calcium reactor and a spare. The CL will be a gold dart which is a 2" intake and 1.5" output. The manifold will be 1.5" with 1" bushings. Do you think every CL outlet should have a true union ball valve ? Is it necessary?
Overflow box - this deserves a separate post
acrylic51
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lubeck http:///t/394626/new-110-gal-mixed-reef-build-this-is-going-to-be-good/60#post_3515192
Still undecided on a few things and looking for some opinions/experiences.
Return pump? 1200 net return is what I'm looking for. Could go as high as 2000 I'll kill 2 birds with 1 stone here.....You talk about using a manifold system to feed other components of your system.....This is where you would employ a manifold, not off of your CL system.....You didn't really state if you have a preference on either an external or submersible pump.....Either way my personal choices would be either the Reeflo Hybrid Snapper/Dart pump or Waterblaster pump that fits your flow requirements........Either would be excellent choices IMHO......
Protein skimmer? My limit is only it can be no wider than the 55 gal sump which is 13". Height may play a factor. The stand is 28" and the sump is 21". My concern is when I build the sump I need to make sure I don't box it in too much that I can't pull it out for maintenance Does that mean I only have 7" of clearance to pull the skimmer out? Unless I go external? My choices or picks would/could be Octopus 1000sss, Octopus Diablo 160, Octopus POV 6" skimmer.....This skimmer has an adjustable pump which makes it super attractive IMO......The issue I have with Octopus skimmers is that they run best in 6"-6.5" of water.....Limiting IMO......Vertex Omega 150 is top of the list.....You don't have the water depth issues as you do with Octopus.....Bubble Magus Nac7 another nice choice no water depth issue.....SWC, Skimz also another excellent choice......
Another issue to look at is when you build your sump don't go the height of a 55.....Doesn't have to be deeper than 12"-14"......Again check out Melevsreef dot com on designs......The other issue and as I mentioned when I highlighted skimmers.....If you sump water depth is deep you'll have to elevate the skimmer possibly with the Octopus skimmers, so what that does then is narrow the room you have to remove the collection cup.....As the other skimmers I mentioned can be run in deeper depths of water, so you wouldn't have to elevate them and keep the "head room" you have under the stand........External might seem attractive, but you have to come up with a way to "hide" them, and then you have the added headache IMO of being able to feed the skimmer which would require an additional pump, and then you have to worry about plumbing the drain of the skimmer back to the sump which can create another set of headaches......
Sump design? Haven't figured it out yet but I know I want a large fuge section and a small return section. Do I build the sump around the skimmer? Melevsreef dot com........
Lighting?
Aqua scape ? I was thinking of three islands using PVC to support. I want to make I eliminate as much shadowing as possible for coral placement though. Acrylic rod and some JB WaterWeld works wonders.....
Manifold. I am planning on adding a manifold to the closed loop which is currently 5 returns. I will be adding 5 additional outlets for water changes, carbon reactors, gfo reactor, down the road calcium reactor and a spare. The CL will be a gold dart which is a 2" intake and 1.5" output. The manifold will be 1.5" with 1" bushings. Do you think every CL outlet should have a true union ball valve ? Is it necessary? A CL is exactly that.....A CL.....No manifolds to supply other items off your CL.....The manifold should be run off your return pump......
Overflow box - this deserves a separate post Not complicated at all buddy......I have complete faith in you that you could do it......What's your questions or concerns......
Originally Posted by Lubeck http:///t/394626/new-110-gal-mixed-reef-build-this-is-going-to-be-good/60#post_3515192
Still undecided on a few things and looking for some opinions/experiences.
Return pump? 1200 net return is what I'm looking for. Could go as high as 2000 I'll kill 2 birds with 1 stone here.....You talk about using a manifold system to feed other components of your system.....This is where you would employ a manifold, not off of your CL system.....You didn't really state if you have a preference on either an external or submersible pump.....Either way my personal choices would be either the Reeflo Hybrid Snapper/Dart pump or Waterblaster pump that fits your flow requirements........Either would be excellent choices IMHO......
Protein skimmer? My limit is only it can be no wider than the 55 gal sump which is 13". Height may play a factor. The stand is 28" and the sump is 21". My concern is when I build the sump I need to make sure I don't box it in too much that I can't pull it out for maintenance Does that mean I only have 7" of clearance to pull the skimmer out? Unless I go external? My choices or picks would/could be Octopus 1000sss, Octopus Diablo 160, Octopus POV 6" skimmer.....This skimmer has an adjustable pump which makes it super attractive IMO......The issue I have with Octopus skimmers is that they run best in 6"-6.5" of water.....Limiting IMO......Vertex Omega 150 is top of the list.....You don't have the water depth issues as you do with Octopus.....Bubble Magus Nac7 another nice choice no water depth issue.....SWC, Skimz also another excellent choice......
Another issue to look at is when you build your sump don't go the height of a 55.....Doesn't have to be deeper than 12"-14"......Again check out Melevsreef dot com on designs......The other issue and as I mentioned when I highlighted skimmers.....If you sump water depth is deep you'll have to elevate the skimmer possibly with the Octopus skimmers, so what that does then is narrow the room you have to remove the collection cup.....As the other skimmers I mentioned can be run in deeper depths of water, so you wouldn't have to elevate them and keep the "head room" you have under the stand........External might seem attractive, but you have to come up with a way to "hide" them, and then you have the added headache IMO of being able to feed the skimmer which would require an additional pump, and then you have to worry about plumbing the drain of the skimmer back to the sump which can create another set of headaches......
Sump design? Haven't figured it out yet but I know I want a large fuge section and a small return section. Do I build the sump around the skimmer? Melevsreef dot com........
Lighting?
Aqua scape ? I was thinking of three islands using PVC to support. I want to make I eliminate as much shadowing as possible for coral placement though. Acrylic rod and some JB WaterWeld works wonders.....
Manifold. I am planning on adding a manifold to the closed loop which is currently 5 returns. I will be adding 5 additional outlets for water changes, carbon reactors, gfo reactor, down the road calcium reactor and a spare. The CL will be a gold dart which is a 2" intake and 1.5" output. The manifold will be 1.5" with 1" bushings. Do you think every CL outlet should have a true union ball valve ? Is it necessary? A CL is exactly that.....A CL.....No manifolds to supply other items off your CL.....The manifold should be run off your return pump......
Overflow box - this deserves a separate post Not complicated at all buddy......I have complete faith in you that you could do it......What's your questions or concerns......
lubeck
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lubeck
Still undecided on a few things and looking for some opinions/experiences.
Return pump? 1200 net return is what I'm looking for. Could go as high as 2000 I'll kill 2 birds with 1 stone here.....You talk about using a manifold system to feed other components of your system.....This is where you would employ a manifold, not off of your CL system.....You didn't really state if you have a preference on either an external or submersible pump.....Either way my personal choices would be either the Reeflo Hybrid Snapper/Dart pump or Waterblaster pump that fits your flow requirements........Either would be excellent choices IMHO......
Protein skimmer? My limit is only it can be no wider than the 55 gal sump which is 13". Height may play a factor. The stand is 28" and the sump is 21". My concern is when I build the sump I need to make sure I don't box it in too much that I can't pull it out for maintenance Does that mean I only have 7" of clearance to pull the skimmer out? Unless I go external? My choices or picks would/could be Octopus 1000sss, Octopus Diablo 160, Octopus POV 6" skimmer.....This skimmer has an adjustable pump which makes it super attractive IMO......The issue I have with Octopus skimmers is that they run best in 6"-6.5" of water.....Limiting IMO......Vertex Omega 150 is top of the list.....You don't have the water depth issues as you do with Octopus.....Bubble Magus Nac7 another nice choice no water depth issue.....SWC, Skimz also another excellent choice......
Thanks Shawn. It looks like the omega 150 is only good for 150 gallons. I really want to make sure I have a little cushion with the skimmer since I will be pushing that already and having a healthy bio load and plenty of sps. What about the alpha 170? My biggest issue is I'm not sure if I have the clearance to get the skimmer out of the sump? I believe I only have about 7". I have no worries about the collection cup. I'm not sure about the body. How can I figure this out?
Another issue to look at is when you build your sump don't go the height of a 55.....Doesn't have to be deeper than 12"-14"......Again check out Melevsreef dot com on designs......The other issue and as I mentioned when I highlighted skimmers.....If you sump water depth is deep you'll have to elevate the skimmer possibly with the Octopus skimmers, so what that does then is narrow the room you have to remove the collection cup.....As the other skimmers I mentioned can be run in deeper depths of water, so you wouldn't have to elevate them and keep the "head room" you have under the stand........External might seem attractive, but you have to come up with a way to "hide" them, and then you have the added headache IMO of being able to feed the skimmer which would require an additional pump, and then you have to worry about plumbing the drain of the skimmer back to the sump which can create another set of headaches......
I actually want to get maximum water water capacity in the sump. To the point that when the pumps are off the sump fills to the top. That's the design I want to find. I actually had that on my original tank in 05. I'm with you on the skimmer. I'm wondering with the bean drain design if its okay to split the two of the drains one going to fuge and another to sump and then the return in the middle? I want the return section to be the smallest section.
Sump design? Haven't figured it out yet but I know I want a large fuge section and a small return section. Do I build the sump around the skimmer? Melevsreef dot com........
Been on there every night
Lighting? Really, no comment? Lol.
Aqua scape ? I was thinking of three islands using PVC to support. I want to make I eliminate as much shadowing as possible for coral placement though. Acrylic rod and some JB WaterWeld works wonders.....
Manifold. I am planning on adding a manifold to the closed loop which is currently 5 returns. I will be adding 5 additional outlets for water changes, carbon reactors, gfo reactor, down the road calcium reactor and a spare. The CL will be a gold dart which is a 2" intake and 1.5" output. The manifold will be 1.5" with 1" bushings. Do you think every CL outlet should have a true union ball valve ? Is it necessary? A CL is exactly that.....A CL.....No manifolds to supply other items off your CL.....The manifold should be run off your return pump...... I will need to look into this a lot of this is riding on if I can get the laundry room for my fish room!! My cats liter boxes are in there and worry about the ammonia vapors getting into my rodi water or DT Is this something to worried about?
Overflow box - this deserves a separate post Not complicated at all buddy......I have complete faith in you that you could do it......What's your questions or concerns......
Originally Posted by Lubeck
Still undecided on a few things and looking for some opinions/experiences.
Return pump? 1200 net return is what I'm looking for. Could go as high as 2000 I'll kill 2 birds with 1 stone here.....You talk about using a manifold system to feed other components of your system.....This is where you would employ a manifold, not off of your CL system.....You didn't really state if you have a preference on either an external or submersible pump.....Either way my personal choices would be either the Reeflo Hybrid Snapper/Dart pump or Waterblaster pump that fits your flow requirements........Either would be excellent choices IMHO......
Protein skimmer? My limit is only it can be no wider than the 55 gal sump which is 13". Height may play a factor. The stand is 28" and the sump is 21". My concern is when I build the sump I need to make sure I don't box it in too much that I can't pull it out for maintenance Does that mean I only have 7" of clearance to pull the skimmer out? Unless I go external? My choices or picks would/could be Octopus 1000sss, Octopus Diablo 160, Octopus POV 6" skimmer.....This skimmer has an adjustable pump which makes it super attractive IMO......The issue I have with Octopus skimmers is that they run best in 6"-6.5" of water.....Limiting IMO......Vertex Omega 150 is top of the list.....You don't have the water depth issues as you do with Octopus.....Bubble Magus Nac7 another nice choice no water depth issue.....SWC, Skimz also another excellent choice......
Thanks Shawn. It looks like the omega 150 is only good for 150 gallons. I really want to make sure I have a little cushion with the skimmer since I will be pushing that already and having a healthy bio load and plenty of sps. What about the alpha 170? My biggest issue is I'm not sure if I have the clearance to get the skimmer out of the sump? I believe I only have about 7". I have no worries about the collection cup. I'm not sure about the body. How can I figure this out?
Another issue to look at is when you build your sump don't go the height of a 55.....Doesn't have to be deeper than 12"-14"......Again check out Melevsreef dot com on designs......The other issue and as I mentioned when I highlighted skimmers.....If you sump water depth is deep you'll have to elevate the skimmer possibly with the Octopus skimmers, so what that does then is narrow the room you have to remove the collection cup.....As the other skimmers I mentioned can be run in deeper depths of water, so you wouldn't have to elevate them and keep the "head room" you have under the stand........External might seem attractive, but you have to come up with a way to "hide" them, and then you have the added headache IMO of being able to feed the skimmer which would require an additional pump, and then you have to worry about plumbing the drain of the skimmer back to the sump which can create another set of headaches......
I actually want to get maximum water water capacity in the sump. To the point that when the pumps are off the sump fills to the top. That's the design I want to find. I actually had that on my original tank in 05. I'm with you on the skimmer. I'm wondering with the bean drain design if its okay to split the two of the drains one going to fuge and another to sump and then the return in the middle? I want the return section to be the smallest section.
Sump design? Haven't figured it out yet but I know I want a large fuge section and a small return section. Do I build the sump around the skimmer? Melevsreef dot com........
Been on there every night
Lighting? Really, no comment? Lol.
Aqua scape ? I was thinking of three islands using PVC to support. I want to make I eliminate as much shadowing as possible for coral placement though. Acrylic rod and some JB WaterWeld works wonders.....
Manifold. I am planning on adding a manifold to the closed loop which is currently 5 returns. I will be adding 5 additional outlets for water changes, carbon reactors, gfo reactor, down the road calcium reactor and a spare. The CL will be a gold dart which is a 2" intake and 1.5" output. The manifold will be 1.5" with 1" bushings. Do you think every CL outlet should have a true union ball valve ? Is it necessary? A CL is exactly that.....A CL.....No manifolds to supply other items off your CL.....The manifold should be run off your return pump...... I will need to look into this a lot of this is riding on if I can get the laundry room for my fish room!! My cats liter boxes are in there and worry about the ammonia vapors getting into my rodi water or DT Is this something to worried about?
Overflow box - this deserves a separate post Not complicated at all buddy......I have complete faith in you that you could do it......What's your questions or concerns......
acrylic51
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lubeck http:///t/394626/new-110-gal-mixed-reef-build-this-is-going-to-be-good/60#post_3515420
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lubeck
Still undecided on a few things and looking for some opinions/experiences.
Return pump? 1200 net return is what I'm looking for. Could go as high as 2000 I'll kill 2 birds with 1 stone here.....You talk about using a manifold system to feed other components of your system.....This is where you would employ a manifold, not off of your CL system.....You didn't really state if you have a preference on either an external or submersible pump.....Either way my personal choices would be either the Reeflo Hybrid Snapper/Dart pump or Waterblaster pump that fits your flow requirements........Either would be excellent choices IMHO......
Protein skimmer? My limit is only it can be no wider than the 55 gal sump which is 13". Height may play a factor. The stand is 28" and the sump is 21". My concern is when I build the sump I need to make sure I don't box it in too much that I can't pull it out for maintenance Does that mean I only have 7" of clearance to pull the skimmer out? Unless I go external? My choices or picks would/could be Octopus 1000sss, Octopus Diablo 160, Octopus POV 6" skimmer.....This skimmer has an adjustable pump which makes it super attractive IMO......The issue I have with Octopus skimmers is that they run best in 6"-6.5" of water.....Limiting IMO......Vertex Omega 150 is top of the list.....You don't have the water depth issues as you do with Octopus.....Bubble Magus Nac7 another nice choice no water depth issue.....SWC, Skimz also another excellent choice......
Thanks Shawn. It looks like the omega 150 is only good for 150 gallons. I really want to make sure I have a little cushion with the skimmer since I will be pushing that already and having a healthy bio load and plenty of sps. What about the alpha 170? My biggest issue is I'm not sure if I have the clearance to get the skimmer out of the sump? I believe I only have about 7". I have no worries about the collection cup. I'm not sure about the body. How can I figure this out? How big are you planning to go or should I say how much more volume or load are you planning on adding.....Honestly I think the you could stretch the Omega.....I've heard a bit modest on the numbers......Being that your planning on depth in the sump that rather rules the Octopus out, but even in that event I'd check out the Skimz.....External are nice, but as I mentioned a pain.....Trying to figure out if you can fit it or not is a tough one.....Other than mocking something up of similar size and seeing if you can maneuver the skimmer in and out.....Honestly I wouldn't concern myself to greatly on that matter.....What needs serviced the most is the pumps, which could easily be removed....Even on my setup if I'd opt to pull the entire skimmer I'd have to remove the sump and all associated plumbing......
Another issue to look at is when you build your sump don't go the height of a 55.....Doesn't have to be deeper than 12"-14"......Again check out Melevsreef dot com on designs......The other issue and as I mentioned when I highlighted skimmers.....If you sump water depth is deep you'll have to elevate the skimmer possibly with the Octopus skimmers, so what that does then is narrow the room you have to remove the collection cup.....As the other skimmers I mentioned can be run in deeper depths of water, so you wouldn't have to elevate them and keep the "head room" you have under the stand........External might seem attractive, but you have to come up with a way to "hide" them, and then you have the added headache IMO of being able to feed the skimmer which would require an additional pump, and then you have to worry about plumbing the drain of the skimmer back to the sump which can create another set of headaches......I actually want to get maximum water water capacity in the sump. To the point that when the pumps are off the sump fills to the top. That's the design I want to find. I actually had that on my original tank in 05. I'm with you on the skimmer. I'm wondering with the bean drain design if its okay to split the two of the drains one going to fuge and another to sump and then the return in the middle? I want the return section to be the smallest section. I like your thinking on deep water depth, but think you could possibly be flirting with danger.....Meaning if you'd happen to over fill the sump for whatever reason and would have a pump stoppage you'd have a little flood......Leave yourself a bit more head room......Even at the depth of my sump even with an outage and I'm running 11" in depth I still have roughly 9" to play with........Back flow takes it to 6" for error.....
Sump design? Haven't figured it out yet but I know I want a large fuge section and a small return section. Do I build the sump around the skimmer? Melevsreef dot com........
Been on there every night
Lighting? Really, no comment? Lol. DIY LED.....I want post much more on this subject, but I'll shoot you a text and share something with you that might really interest you......Something neat and simple........
Aqua scape ? I was thinking of three islands using PVC to support. I want to make I eliminate as much shadowing as possible for coral placement though. Acrylic rod and some JB WaterWeld works wonders.....
Manifold. I am planning on adding a manifold to the closed loop which is currently 5 returns. I will be adding 5 additional outlets for water changes, carbon reactors, gfo reactor, down the road calcium reactor and a spare. The CL will be a gold dart which is a 2" intake and 1.5" output. The manifold will be 1.5" with 1" bushings. Do you think every CL outlet should have a true union ball valve ? Is it necessary? A CL is exactly that.....A CL.....No manifolds to supply other items off your CL.....The manifold should be run off your return pump...... I will need to look into this a lot of this is riding on if I can get the laundry room for my fish room!! My cats liter boxes are in there and worry about the ammonia vapors getting into my rodi water or DT Is this something to worried about? Honestly I don't think there would an issue with the ammonia vapors unless they piss like race horses.......For RO/DI water I'd looking into some vats like I'm using....I know you have to have a source easily out there in CA........
Overflow box - this deserves a separate post Not complicated at all buddy......I have complete faith in you that you could do it......What's your questions or concerns......
Originally Posted by Lubeck http:///t/394626/new-110-gal-mixed-reef-build-this-is-going-to-be-good/60#post_3515420
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lubeck
Still undecided on a few things and looking for some opinions/experiences.
Return pump? 1200 net return is what I'm looking for. Could go as high as 2000 I'll kill 2 birds with 1 stone here.....You talk about using a manifold system to feed other components of your system.....This is where you would employ a manifold, not off of your CL system.....You didn't really state if you have a preference on either an external or submersible pump.....Either way my personal choices would be either the Reeflo Hybrid Snapper/Dart pump or Waterblaster pump that fits your flow requirements........Either would be excellent choices IMHO......
Protein skimmer? My limit is only it can be no wider than the 55 gal sump which is 13". Height may play a factor. The stand is 28" and the sump is 21". My concern is when I build the sump I need to make sure I don't box it in too much that I can't pull it out for maintenance Does that mean I only have 7" of clearance to pull the skimmer out? Unless I go external? My choices or picks would/could be Octopus 1000sss, Octopus Diablo 160, Octopus POV 6" skimmer.....This skimmer has an adjustable pump which makes it super attractive IMO......The issue I have with Octopus skimmers is that they run best in 6"-6.5" of water.....Limiting IMO......Vertex Omega 150 is top of the list.....You don't have the water depth issues as you do with Octopus.....Bubble Magus Nac7 another nice choice no water depth issue.....SWC, Skimz also another excellent choice......
Thanks Shawn. It looks like the omega 150 is only good for 150 gallons. I really want to make sure I have a little cushion with the skimmer since I will be pushing that already and having a healthy bio load and plenty of sps. What about the alpha 170? My biggest issue is I'm not sure if I have the clearance to get the skimmer out of the sump? I believe I only have about 7". I have no worries about the collection cup. I'm not sure about the body. How can I figure this out? How big are you planning to go or should I say how much more volume or load are you planning on adding.....Honestly I think the you could stretch the Omega.....I've heard a bit modest on the numbers......Being that your planning on depth in the sump that rather rules the Octopus out, but even in that event I'd check out the Skimz.....External are nice, but as I mentioned a pain.....Trying to figure out if you can fit it or not is a tough one.....Other than mocking something up of similar size and seeing if you can maneuver the skimmer in and out.....Honestly I wouldn't concern myself to greatly on that matter.....What needs serviced the most is the pumps, which could easily be removed....Even on my setup if I'd opt to pull the entire skimmer I'd have to remove the sump and all associated plumbing......
Another issue to look at is when you build your sump don't go the height of a 55.....Doesn't have to be deeper than 12"-14"......Again check out Melevsreef dot com on designs......The other issue and as I mentioned when I highlighted skimmers.....If you sump water depth is deep you'll have to elevate the skimmer possibly with the Octopus skimmers, so what that does then is narrow the room you have to remove the collection cup.....As the other skimmers I mentioned can be run in deeper depths of water, so you wouldn't have to elevate them and keep the "head room" you have under the stand........External might seem attractive, but you have to come up with a way to "hide" them, and then you have the added headache IMO of being able to feed the skimmer which would require an additional pump, and then you have to worry about plumbing the drain of the skimmer back to the sump which can create another set of headaches......I actually want to get maximum water water capacity in the sump. To the point that when the pumps are off the sump fills to the top. That's the design I want to find. I actually had that on my original tank in 05. I'm with you on the skimmer. I'm wondering with the bean drain design if its okay to split the two of the drains one going to fuge and another to sump and then the return in the middle? I want the return section to be the smallest section. I like your thinking on deep water depth, but think you could possibly be flirting with danger.....Meaning if you'd happen to over fill the sump for whatever reason and would have a pump stoppage you'd have a little flood......Leave yourself a bit more head room......Even at the depth of my sump even with an outage and I'm running 11" in depth I still have roughly 9" to play with........Back flow takes it to 6" for error.....
Sump design? Haven't figured it out yet but I know I want a large fuge section and a small return section. Do I build the sump around the skimmer? Melevsreef dot com........
Been on there every night
Lighting? Really, no comment? Lol. DIY LED.....I want post much more on this subject, but I'll shoot you a text and share something with you that might really interest you......Something neat and simple........
Aqua scape ? I was thinking of three islands using PVC to support. I want to make I eliminate as much shadowing as possible for coral placement though. Acrylic rod and some JB WaterWeld works wonders.....
Manifold. I am planning on adding a manifold to the closed loop which is currently 5 returns. I will be adding 5 additional outlets for water changes, carbon reactors, gfo reactor, down the road calcium reactor and a spare. The CL will be a gold dart which is a 2" intake and 1.5" output. The manifold will be 1.5" with 1" bushings. Do you think every CL outlet should have a true union ball valve ? Is it necessary? A CL is exactly that.....A CL.....No manifolds to supply other items off your CL.....The manifold should be run off your return pump...... I will need to look into this a lot of this is riding on if I can get the laundry room for my fish room!! My cats liter boxes are in there and worry about the ammonia vapors getting into my rodi water or DT Is this something to worried about? Honestly I don't think there would an issue with the ammonia vapors unless they piss like race horses.......For RO/DI water I'd looking into some vats like I'm using....I know you have to have a source easily out there in CA........
Overflow box - this deserves a separate post Not complicated at all buddy......I have complete faith in you that you could do it......What's your questions or concerns......
lubeck
Active Member
Thanks Shawn. I could deal with a gap of 6" I just don't want to waste all the space. I'm listening on the LEDs
Now to the overflow box........
How do I explain that the dimensions must include the thickness of the acrylic?
I'm going to go with 3/8" acrylic.
L=60"
Now the height can only be 4 3/4" because of the bulk head in the middle of the tank. Using a 2" PVC (I will be using a the classic bean overflow exactly so it will be 1.5" PVC but just don't have any right now) it looks like 4 3/4" will be fine but I'm not sure with adding the other plumbing pieces will work for the depth?
So lets say H=4 3/4"
The depth or the bottom piece of the overflow I'm not sure but it looks like 5" would be enough. Anyone know? Using the 2" 90 it gives me 1" inch to fit the remaining plumbing. 6" would prob be better huh?
Okay so lets say L - 60". H - 5" D- 6". Does that sound about right?
How far down do the three 1.3/4" holes go on H? What is center? Aren't those the right size holes for a 1" bulk head? What is the distance between each hole that is cut?
As a note the bottom of my weir is 1" from the top of my tank (the bottom of my euro brace) my 2 holes are 1/2" wide by 18-1/4" long.
Did I miss anything ? Is this all I would need to give to a fabricator?
Now to the overflow box........
How do I explain that the dimensions must include the thickness of the acrylic?
I'm going to go with 3/8" acrylic.
L=60"
Now the height can only be 4 3/4" because of the bulk head in the middle of the tank. Using a 2" PVC (I will be using a the classic bean overflow exactly so it will be 1.5" PVC but just don't have any right now) it looks like 4 3/4" will be fine but I'm not sure with adding the other plumbing pieces will work for the depth?
So lets say H=4 3/4"
The depth or the bottom piece of the overflow I'm not sure but it looks like 5" would be enough. Anyone know? Using the 2" 90 it gives me 1" inch to fit the remaining plumbing. 6" would prob be better huh?
Okay so lets say L - 60". H - 5" D- 6". Does that sound about right?
How far down do the three 1.3/4" holes go on H? What is center? Aren't those the right size holes for a 1" bulk head? What is the distance between each hole that is cut?
As a note the bottom of my weir is 1" from the top of my tank (the bottom of my euro brace) my 2 holes are 1/2" wide by 18-1/4" long.
Did I miss anything ? Is this all I would need to give to a fabricator?
acrylic51
Active Member
Hey Bob.....I'm kinda lost with what your trying to explain.....It's probably me it's late over here on the east coast, but if your having it fabricated at a shop I'd just supply them with the finished dimension of the box itself.....That should be up to the fabricator to work out the exact dimensions of each piece and cut.....If you like I can look it over and give you exact dimensions, but not really hard to figure out.....
Since you want the outer dimensions of the overflow to be 60" your "ends" would be glued to the inside of the back panel of the overflow box.........The bottom would be the last piece glued into place....With that said do you want the inside of the box height 5" or 4 3/4" H......Your fabricator would just need to subtract material thickness to get you your correct dimensions......
I'll shoot you a PM.
Since you want the outer dimensions of the overflow to be 60" your "ends" would be glued to the inside of the back panel of the overflow box.........The bottom would be the last piece glued into place....With that said do you want the inside of the box height 5" or 4 3/4" H......Your fabricator would just need to subtract material thickness to get you your correct dimensions......
I'll shoot you a PM.
acrylic51
Active Member
Not sure what you mean when you say where are the holes suppose to go in the back......If your referring to the holes in the overflow itself the holes should be drilled in the bottom of the overflow box.......Your dimensions should work, but if you like I can get you an accurate measurement on my 1.5 stand pipes if you like......
lubeck
Active Member
I guess your right. That would eliminate a lot of issues I was just planning to put the drains on the back glass. Do you think it matters how the plumbing is facing in the overflow box? I have some cash so if these dimensions are correct then I can go tomorrow order the pieces. I will space the holes 1.5" apart. What will I need to weld the overflow box onto the tank?
acrylic51
Active Member
Putting them in the back wall of the overflow box would be a major mistake IMHO.....They should go in the bottom......Doesn't matter how the plumbing is facing.....I have mine offset in the overflow box.....I think I had shown you a pic of how mine are oriented.....
On your spacing I'd rethink it a bit.....I'd try to spread them out a tad inside the overflow box.....Just me, but choice is up to you......The only thing you'll need is a can of WeldOn 4 and applicator bottle.....TapPlastic should have everything there when you pick up the overflow box......Not super expensive for the can of WeldOn and applicator bottle.....
On your spacing I'd rethink it a bit.....I'd try to spread them out a tad inside the overflow box.....Just me, but choice is up to you......The only thing you'll need is a can of WeldOn 4 and applicator bottle.....TapPlastic should have everything there when you pick up the overflow box......Not super expensive for the can of WeldOn and applicator bottle.....
lubeck
Active Member
Some pic updates. I cut the back out to put the 55 gal sump in. I also put another cost of poly on. Going to go order my overflow now. Also I was planning on the manifold pic below but I bought the pieces based on the closed loop pump and not the return pump which I don't even have planned yet. I certain that it won't have a 1.5" return line which is what this pic is with 1" bushings
