110 gal Mixed Reef Build. 180 gal System

acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lubeck http:///t/394626/new-110-gal-mixed-reef-build-this-is-going-to-be-good/140#post_3517529
I've considered that scenario very seriously but there is really not enough room due to the washer and drier. My biggest concern is contaminating the sump since it wouldn't be protected from thing ls falling in it. Kitty liter, laundry , bleach. Bla bla bla. I know I will be using the laundry room for other reasons like top offs? Water changes, manifold ?, reactors.
Realistically I think you are over thinking it a bit......Kitty litter, bleach....Minuscule in the scheme of things.....Bleach has very little effective time when opened.....The smell would/could be negated by the use of carbon if your worried.....Why couldn't you build a little "shed" to cover the sump/skimmer.....Surely there has to be a little room there for the sump........
 
snakeblitz33

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
If you build it in the laundry, build a small stand for the sump... not for the sump to sit on, but a "sump cabinet." Enclose your sump in a cabinet in the laundry and lock it or don't open it unless necessary. I'm sure your wife would appreciate the extra counter space. You might build it just tall enough to even have a sink in the laundry room with the sump underneath. Then your wife would really love you. lol
Who said you need a dryer anyways? Hang em' on the cloths line! A sump is more important! Save some electricity on drying your clothes for your aquarium pumps. :D
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
Lol!! Yeah it's really not going to be an option, the tank would create very small walkway between the dryer and the tank. My wife won't like that. Like I said, I'm considering using it for different applications. I'm sold on building a stand. Just need to find the time to start building planning.
 
sweatervest13

sweatervest13

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lubeck http:///t/394626/new-110-gal-mixed-reef-build-this-is-going-to-be-good/160#post_3517543
Lol!! Yeah it's really not going to be an option, the tank would create very small walkway between the dryer and the tank. My wife won't like that. Like I said, I'm considering using it for different applications. I'm sold on building a stand. Just need to find the time to start building planning.
You can't say that we didn't try!!!
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
I was curious on the new stand if you decided to build it taller or make the stand wider front to back for the sump......
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
Ah yes. I was hoping if someone could help me get cut sheets together to pick up this weekend??? Any takers? This is what I'm looking for The top fram will be 2x6 and all the rest is 2x4s. I'm not sure how to do the doors. I'm going to use 3/4" maple to skin it. I want the front opening as wide and tall as possible. I'm shooting for 72x36x40 for the stand. This will give me plenty of space for the manifold and all the reactors. The tank 60x18x24 will be centered to the stand but pulled all the way forward. Just like the last pic so I can support my bean overflow for plumbing. I'm also now looking for a new sump. Shawn if you cut um ill glue um. Lol. Seriously though ?? I did email Melev to get a quote. I really don't want to pay $500 for a sump when I bought the tank and stand for nearly half that.


 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Stand design looks pretty good......You might consider though on the support legs you have on the inside that are going all the way to the ground.....You could eliminate them and it would save yourself roughly 3" of usable space inside the stand without them.....Not necessary since the stand will be wrapped in 3/4" ply......Another consideration is the 2x4's on the bottom of the stand....instead of laying them on end lay them flat.....you can gain some additional height inside the stand as well......
What type of help are you looking for on your cut lists.....Are you planning on using any moldings on the corners or are you considering mitered 45 degree edges......These things will play into your final cut list
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
I don't know how to miter or believe I have the tools? I was thinking of using some kind of molding that can be nailed on.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Well mitering the edges can be accomplished a couple ways......1 would be on a table saw with the blade set at a 45 degree angle, which depending on the size of the panel is a PITA....The other is using the router and a 45 degree miter bit......This bit I know HD carries.....It's where I bought mine......This would give you the cleanest ends IMHO......Doing it this way if your patient your joints would be perfect and seamless.....Minimizing the amount of molding trim you use.....The other way would just be to cut squared ends as most do......
Using the squared end method.....I would make my front panel the longest panel meaning it would overlap my side pieces......I choice this method since the end grain of the panel would be at the sides vs being out front in your face.....So using that method with that said if your outside dimensions of the stand are 72x36x40. I would have the front panel cut would be 73.50".....73.50" is to allow the front panel to overlap each side piece by 3/4"......To be on the safe side and to allow for any miscalculation you could get the front panel cut to 74".....This would allow you if the stand for whatever reason was out of whack would allow you alittle wiggle room and would still give you adequate coverage on both ends....With that said even if the panel is now a 1/2" to long you can always go back after the sides are attached to the stand and take a flush trim bit and cut off the excess hangover wood.....Sorta the same principle when your building a sump or such out of acrylic....You oversize your panels to allow you to get things square and then once squared and in place you go back and remove the excess with the flush trim router bit........
Your end pieces would be cut exactly 36"x40"......I'm doing some rough calculations, but minimum sheet requirement would be 2 sheets.....This would yield you enough for front and sides.....Back of the stand depending on your plan could be done with the leftover material.....If your looking for close it up somewhat similar to the front you'd need another sheet.....Yield quantities suck with certain dimensions......
Excellent wood choice by the way.....Excellent ability to get a super nice finish......Tight pores unlike oak.......
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
Thanks Shawn. What about the actual frame dimensions and then the doors? This is a huge help
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
My Marco rocks came in yesterday I'm pleased with what I got. I can't wait to start building scapes. I think this is about 50 lbs



 
sweatervest13

sweatervest13

Active Member
Nice rock... It has lots of nooks and crannies, and does not look too dense. It looks like you got some great shapes too. Did they cut some of the rock? Some of it looks like it have a straight edge. That could work really well for placing the rock on the bottom of the tank, making it very stable.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Rock does look good.....I was extremely pleased with the rock I purchased form them....Sweatervest I think if you look on their site they call it "prime cuts".....I might be wrong, but I do know they offer rock cut flat on 1 side if you want......
Bob as far as the doors....Tons of options...Well maybe not tons, but a few.....What I normally do is make a pattern or jig of the exact dimensions of my openings for the stand and again using the 1 bit you bought, you would lay your pattern down on the face panel of the stand and cut away the openings for both door openings.....I prefer to make my own doors basically a stile/rail design with pocket holes.....Can be a tedious project, but I will never use plywood doors again.......Problem I see with using plywood for the door is 1 getting them to lay flat....And they may at first, but you will see them develop a wave and longevity is poor IMHO.... 2.The exposed edges of plywood doors are; well rather short cutting IMO when it comes to a show piece for the house.....Even if you use molding or trim to hide the exposed edges, it still shows IMO lack of effort when you've gone great lengths to perfect everything else..... I personally prefer to use solid wood to build my doors out of.......
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
Yup. Prime cuts. Most of the pieces have a flat side to them. I picked up a miter saw from a buddy so if you could help with the cuts once I get to skinning that would be great. I'm def planning on solid wood for doors and sides. The stand and now sump is what is holding me up. I can start cooking the rocks in bleach and acid
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Honestly wouldn't do the acid.....I'd opt just bleach....I cooked mine in bleach and then ran in straight RO water and found no leaching of Phos.....I have a batch still running in RO now since January and still no leaching.....
Have you purchased your materials for the stand yet......If your going out tomorrow, price shop the difference between using solid wood for the skin vs ply for the skin.....Using pocket hole jig to build the skin, might be a little more time involved, but finishing results.....definitely easier IMO......
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
It is $50 a sheet for maple. Do you think I should use plywood? I was thinking for the top piece but not sure.
 
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