110 gal Mixed Reef Build. 180 gal System
- Thread starter lubeck
- Start date
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
I would use 3/4" sanded ply on the top and bottom. You will save a little money that way. One sheet of maple with a 2x4 frame should be plenty if you plan iy right. You have want to invest in solid maple boards for the doors and fo a stile and rail cabinet door.
You may be surprised how cheap solid red oak boards are. They are strong and have a nice grain.
You may be surprised how cheap solid red oak boards are. They are strong and have a nice grain.
acrylic51
Active Member
Seth 1 sheet of maple ply wouldn't cover the entire stand......at 70"L and 40"W by 36"H.....Definitely not getting the front and sides out of 1 sheet.....I agree with the solid lumber for door construction.....Red Oak is cheaper, but finishing is another story. Pores or grain of the wood is really open making a super smooth finish very time consuming in the steps needed to close up the grain......
lubeck
Active Member
I got my stand done. Made some mods to the size I wimped out and went 61x26x41. Didn't want to make it longer after I measured again where the tank is going. It would have come out too far into my hallway. The width also had to be shortened a little because it would have stuck out too far in front of the tv. I'm fairly happy with it. It is sturdy as rock. I plan on putting two coats of poly on tomorrow. Maybe go by the skin. So you say to get some 3/4" plywood for the top and bottom and just use the maple for the sides and front? I want to keep the front opening as big as it is now so I will need some serious hardware to keep those heavy maple doors in place.
As far as finishes what should I add to the inside? I was thinking white epoxy, but don't know where to get it. Also what should I add to the inside? I was thinking some lighting, what else should I add, fan, electrical , soundproof, ????
As far as finishes what should I add to the inside? I was thinking white epoxy, but don't know where to get it. Also what should I add to the inside? I was thinking some lighting, what else should I add, fan, electrical , soundproof, ????
acrylic51
Active Member
Looks good!!!!!
Curious that you extended the bottom of the stand, but curious why you didn't "cap" or finish off the bottom section with a piece of 2x4 across the bottom in back....(if that makes sense). I'm assuming the sump will sit towards the back meaning the additional depth was needed for the sump to allow it to sit back an allow the skimmer cup to be removed......
I would now put my cross bracing in the top section where the tank will sit on and also in the bottom where the sump and equipment will go.....Then I'd cap it off as you had suggested with ply, and you could seal it with epoxy. I think Corey had mentioned about somewhere that carries epoxy paint.....Probably a cheaper alternative would be a good coat of latex paint.....I like to also caulk the joints(where the wood meets another surface). I would just put a couple coats of latex paint on the inside....I also like to use FRP board as well in my sump area.....With the FRP board again it can be sealed and contain water spills to a degree and can be wiped clean easily.....With epoxy and a good epoxy job it will hold and contain water and would be easy as well to clean up depending on the epoxy used.....Check Lowes or HomeDepot for the epoxy. Not sure, but a good start.....
Adding a light inside the sump would be a good idea....I've been toying with that idea as well, but haven't done anything yet.....Actually I wanted to use LEDs with activated switches so when I'd open the stand doors the lights would come on....Again not really needed but neat....Fan could be useful, but not sure absolutely necessary.....Shouldn't be an issue with humidity or such....Again totally up to what you want to accomplish.....Electrical would definitely be a big plus IMHO.......If you search around there are tons of neat electrical junction box setups......You might look around and see if you can find some American DJ control boxes....Already to go you just need to install them.....Have separate switches to independently control each item.....
I would now put my cross bracing in the top section where the tank will sit on and also in the bottom where the sump and equipment will go.....Then I'd cap it off as you had suggested with ply, and you could seal it with epoxy. I think Corey had mentioned about somewhere that carries epoxy paint.....Probably a cheaper alternative would be a good coat of latex paint.....I like to also caulk the joints(where the wood meets another surface). I would just put a couple coats of latex paint on the inside....I also like to use FRP board as well in my sump area.....With the FRP board again it can be sealed and contain water spills to a degree and can be wiped clean easily.....With epoxy and a good epoxy job it will hold and contain water and would be easy as well to clean up depending on the epoxy used.....Check Lowes or HomeDepot for the epoxy. Not sure, but a good start.....
Adding a light inside the sump would be a good idea....I've been toying with that idea as well, but haven't done anything yet.....Actually I wanted to use LEDs with activated switches so when I'd open the stand doors the lights would come on....Again not really needed but neat....Fan could be useful, but not sure absolutely necessary.....Shouldn't be an issue with humidity or such....Again totally up to what you want to accomplish.....Electrical would definitely be a big plus IMHO.......If you search around there are tons of neat electrical junction box setups......You might look around and see if you can find some American DJ control boxes....Already to go you just need to install them.....Have separate switches to independently control each item.....
lubeck
Active Member
Thanks Shawn. I actually forgot to get those last two pieces for the back/bottom. However, there really is no load on that section I like the frp idea. Do they make smooth sheets though? Also would you still seal it with poly or would you paint with kilz?
I've already purchased LEDs for inside the stand. They are touch sensor lights and swivel. I will take some pics I don't get the dj thing if we have an apex?
Lowes doesn't have epoxy by the gallon. Just tubes.
I've already purchased LEDs for inside the stand. They are touch sensor lights and swivel. I will take some pics I don't get the dj thing if we have an apex?
Lowes doesn't have epoxy by the gallon. Just tubes.
acrylic51
Active Member
I'm not sure on the smooth FRP board. I'm pretty sure they do since its used in bathroom and wet applications. I just use the regular textured stuff. As far as epoxy if you have a quality woodworking store close they should carry epoxy and at Lowes thry should carry a product called mirror coat which is the same just has a mirror finish and a little higher in price. I thought someone here on the forum used an epoxy based paint......can't remember who it was though.
I prefer to paint any exposed wood regarless whats going on top unless I know my final covering advises against it. A couple coats of latex paint then my FRP board glued down with FRP adhesive and then I caulk the edges.
I had forgot you had the Apex so no electrical really needed depending on your situation. I personally didn't want my Apex mounted under the tank. I choose to mount mine on the wall as you've seen. I did however put electrical outlets on the stand to allow me to plug my equipment into the outlets and then that allowed me the freedom to run the outlet cables to where my Apex is located. I did this due to some equipment has long cords and others dont. My Tunzes have super long cables whereas my OM has a very short cable IMO which would either lead me to whacking the original cord and extending or using extension cord or as I chose place outlets strategically. Also to minimize cables and such running the length of the stand.
I prefer to paint any exposed wood regarless whats going on top unless I know my final covering advises against it. A couple coats of latex paint then my FRP board glued down with FRP adhesive and then I caulk the edges.
I had forgot you had the Apex so no electrical really needed depending on your situation. I personally didn't want my Apex mounted under the tank. I choose to mount mine on the wall as you've seen. I did however put electrical outlets on the stand to allow me to plug my equipment into the outlets and then that allowed me the freedom to run the outlet cables to where my Apex is located. I did this due to some equipment has long cords and others dont. My Tunzes have super long cables whereas my OM has a very short cable IMO which would either lead me to whacking the original cord and extending or using extension cord or as I chose place outlets strategically. Also to minimize cables and such running the length of the stand.
lubeck
Active Member
I went and got some wood for the top and bottom inside. I ended getting the maple because a whole sheet was only $7 more than the nice plywood. I also picked up some primer white paint called aqua lock, anybody ever hear of it? It's nearly $30 per gal. I heard good things. I also picked up some poly which I will use after a couple coats of the primer paint. I feel I will be happy with few coats of each and really won't need anything else.
My biggest concern right now is that the maple slab is not sitting level on the stand. There is a little bow to it but that's not what I'm talking about. The stand itself is a little high on the left side. The problem I have is I'm building it in the garage and don't think the floor is level because it pitches to the outside. Either way I know at the connecting joints some of the 2x's are taller /shorter than the other. How do I fix? Sander? I don't have a plainer I will take some picks of the level.
My biggest concern right now is that the maple slab is not sitting level on the stand. There is a little bow to it but that's not what I'm talking about. The stand itself is a little high on the left side. The problem I have is I'm building it in the garage and don't think the floor is level because it pitches to the outside. Either way I know at the connecting joints some of the 2x's are taller /shorter than the other. How do I fix? Sander? I don't have a plainer I will take some picks of the level.
acrylic51
Active Member
Are you referring to the portion of the stand that will rest on the floor itself or the portion of the stand that the tank will rest on......This might be a PITA, but I'd put the stand in it's actual spot where it will be setup at and take level measurements both length and width of the stand and then measure using the level and a tape measure to see how far out it is and in which direction......Depending how far out a sander could do the trick, but then you run into issue of possibly taking to much in another area or creating a "cupping" affect.....
If the stand is out of level on the bottom section which rests on your floor the easiest way would be to shim with "solid" wood or synthetic shims......If it's the top that's out of level again the plywood could be shimmed depending how far out, and then once they plywood is in place and secured if were talking a 16th over the length a sheet of Styrofoam will take up the deficiency........
If the stand is out of level on the bottom section which rests on your floor the easiest way would be to shim with "solid" wood or synthetic shims......If it's the top that's out of level again the plywood could be shimmed depending how far out, and then once they plywood is in place and secured if were talking a 16th over the length a sheet of Styrofoam will take up the deficiency........
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Looking good man.
Can't wait to see the finishing touches.
Can't wait to see the finishing touches.
2quills
Well-Known Member
Looks good. The foam is really for going under acrylic tanks to help alleviate any pressure points like screw or nail heads etc. The shims is probably to fill any potential gaps along the bottom of the tank.
Check with some local pool suppliers, they sell epoxy paint. But it may run ya about $200 for a 2 gallon kit. I haven't seen any smaller kits sold. Boat shops often have some smaller two part kits that you can tint different colors.
Or just get some plain ol epoxy and roll it on over you're primer.
Check with some local pool suppliers, they sell epoxy paint. But it may run ya about $200 for a 2 gallon kit. I haven't seen any smaller kits sold. Boat shops often have some smaller two part kits that you can tint different colors.
Or just get some plain ol epoxy and roll it on over you're primer.
acrylic51
Active Member
Corey I thought you had found some epoxy paint somewhere.....I can't remember we talk about so much stuff at times......As far as foam Corey is correct....I like to use foam under glass tanks as well....Some of it comes down to what the manufacturer of the tank states, and acrylic I would definitely do it......Shims could be used under the stand if needed.....I don't think they are, but could be.....
2quills
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///t/394626/new-110-gal-mixed-reef-build-this-is-going-to-be-good/180#post_3518314
Corey I thought you had found some epoxy paint somewhere....
I did. And epoxy in general isn't cheap.
I ended up ordering some kits from a pool supply website. It actually turned out cheaper that way with the free shipping vs the local shops having to order me the color that I wanted for retail prices. But I needed a few kits for the pool and he's just looking to paint the stand. So not too sure how cost effective that would be. Could simply just clear coat the primer if he can live with the white.
Polyurethanes are decent, too.
I did mine in a two part urethane enamel paint with a hardner. But even there you're looking at about $120 for a 1.25 gallon kit. Only reason I used it is because I had the hook up with one of our local suppliers through work lol. But it leaves a beautiful glass like finish.
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///t/394626/new-110-gal-mixed-reef-build-this-is-going-to-be-good/180#post_3518314
Corey I thought you had found some epoxy paint somewhere....
I did. And epoxy in general isn't cheap.
I ended up ordering some kits from a pool supply website. It actually turned out cheaper that way with the free shipping vs the local shops having to order me the color that I wanted for retail prices. But I needed a few kits for the pool and he's just looking to paint the stand. So not too sure how cost effective that would be. Could simply just clear coat the primer if he can live with the white.
Polyurethanes are decent, too.
I did mine in a two part urethane enamel paint with a hardner. But even there you're looking at about $120 for a 1.25 gallon kit. Only reason I used it is because I had the hook up with one of our local suppliers through work lol. But it leaves a beautiful glass like finish.
lubeck
Active Member
I'm going to prob pass on the epoxy. What should I put over the primer then that won't peel? I plan on doing a few coats of poly no matter what but I'm wondering if I need to do anything more than than the two coats of aqua lock primer? I ran out of sand paper so I can't do my second coat