125 Reef Tank Build

veni vidi vici

Active Member
I put on the first coat of stain on today. Ill probably hit it 2 more times tomorrow if i can.ill be ordering my pump,bulkheads ,MH ballast and reflector on Friday.Almost time to start drilling tank
 

veni vidi vici

Active Member
Still waiting on plumbing material,Bulkheads,Pump,Drill Bit,loc-line.....
So while im waiting i made up a sketch of what my plans are.Feel free to post my mistakes and or any suggestions.
 

wattsupdoc

Active Member
If your going to have a sand bed in the fuge, I would put all 3 drains into the sump compartment. Also, if you can lower the supplies to the CL, IMO you'll get better results. Especially with all the return lines going over the top, the drain is pulling from the surface, There's no flow on the lower portion of the tank. Actually, the returns on the closed loop would be best placed behind the rock. With the supplies picking up from 2/3ish of the way up. This will help to keep those dead zones stirred up. Placing just the supplies behind there will be fine, but you'll need to get to them from time to time.
 

veni vidi vici

Active Member
Originally Posted by wattsupdoc
http:///forum/post/2623264
If your going to have a sand bed in the fuge, I would put all 3 drains into the sump compartment. Also, if you can lower the supplies to the CL, IMO you'll get better results. Especially with all the return lines going over the top, the drain is pulling from the surface, There's no flow on the lower portion of the tank. Actually, the returns on the closed loop would be best placed behind the rock. With the supplies picking up from 2/3ish of the way up. This will help to keep those dead zones stirred up. Placing just the supplies behind there will be fine, but you'll need to get to them from time to time.
My plan with the CL return is to put them at either end of the tank on the sides ,center,Then ill be putting line-loc "Y" so ill have 2 returns on either side.
The reason for the drains being in the top 3rd of the tank ,is in the case of leak ,i dont have to drain the whole tank.
Im not worried about flow.ill have aprox.3000 gph going through the CL plus 2- 2000 GPH powerheads alternating off of wavemaker.I plan on burying the PH in the foam rock structure ill be getting started on soon.
 

wattsupdoc

Active Member
Well, you'll certainly have enough flow with the sump/fuge included and all.
I was just giving my .02 worth.
I can see your point on the leak issue, ball valves would relieve that some, also having them near each bulkhead on the CL returns allows you to dial each side in a little if you want to.
On the PH, how are you planing on burying them in your foam/rock and still being able to remove them for cleaning, servicing, repairs or replacement?
 

veni vidi vici

Active Member
Originally Posted by wattsupdoc
http:///forum/post/2623523
On the PH, how are you planing on burying them in your foam/rock and still being able to remove them for cleaning, servicing, repairs or replacement?

That ,i dont know yet doc.
Ill get a better idea of that when i start fabricating the egg crate skeleton for the rock and foam.Im thinking along the lines of stopping the coast to coast 1'short on both sides of tank to allow myself some working room.I might even play around with some spa flex and see if i channel some flow through it to divert flow through the structure.It will be fun to see what i can come up with.
 

wattsupdoc

Active Member
You could try a rubber glove, balloon,or er,uh well.... something that you could stretch around the PH let the foam set up around it, then be able to pull the PH out leaving the streatchy rubberish thingy
in the foam. Try to get the foam to form a little craddle for it to set in. Use the automotive wire harness coverings that are slit down the middle for making a chase for the wire feeding it to go. I dunno
just throwing ideas out there.
 

wattsupdoc

Active Member
BTW, I would not use 90's on any of those bends on the drains. Double 45's if needed, but I would heat and bend them if it were me. Being as gentle as possible with them.possibly going to spa flex as soon as you can.
 

veni vidi vici

Active Member
Originally Posted by wattsupdoc
http:///forum/post/2623586
BTW, I would not use 90's on any of those bends on the drains. Double 45's if needed, but I would heat and bend them if it were me. Being as gentle as possible with them.possibly going to spa flex as soon as you can.
Think its going to be noisy??
 

wattsupdoc

Active Member
No, not noisy, but the 90's restrict the flow. Of course your primary drain is a syphon, so while it will restrict it some it's probably not too much of an issue once the syphon starts. But the other 2 are not syphons, you might restrict their flow some with the 90's.
 

veni vidi vici

Active Member
Originally Posted by wattsupdoc
http:///forum/post/2623928
No, not noisy, but the 90's restrict the flow. Of course your primary drain is a syphon, so while it will restrict it some it's probably not too much of an issue once the syphon starts. But the other 2 are not syphons, you might restrict their flow some with the 90's.
The way im setting up my bulkheads ,they will all be sitting directly above sump/refugium,so the runs after the 90s will be short.I will look into using 45s.Ide rather get this right the first time.My main concern is keeping things uncluttered,but not at the cost of a smooth running overflow system.
 

veni vidi vici

Active Member
*Update*
Nothing yet lol.Im still waiting on my bulkheads,should be here in a few days according to USPS.Anyway i have a question in regaurds to my CL ive decided to go with 2-1.5" supply lines on my Dart pump with these strainers:

Ive decided to add a line off the return from Dart to do water changes.Has anyone done this?If so does it work well?
One other thing i need to know about Dart pumps,is it self priming?
TIA
 

veni vidi vici

Active Member
Here is my layout,i wanted to get some critique before i drill.I have altered my coast to coast to more of a Utah to Kentucky overflow because of the plan i have for my aquascaping .The dimensions of overflow will be 2'6"Lx6"Hx2"W.The suction bulkheads for my CL are 16" in from ends 8"down
 

scsinet

Active Member
You certainly spend more time on the detailed carpentry than I do
I'm just too lazy to go into all that detail.
Looks good!
Question... I didn't read every word of this thread... ran into a quarrel and kinda started skimming... in your diagram, I don't see where the skimmer is going to go?
You may also want to plan a couple auxillary valves off your main loop to feed future reactors, etc off the main pump.
What did you have in mind for your return pump?
 

veni vidi vici

Active Member
Originally Posted by SCSInet
http:///forum/post/2636891
You certainly spend more time on the detailed carpentry than I do
I'm just too lazy to go into all that detail.
Looks good!
Question... I didn't read every word of this thread... ran into a quarrel and kinda started skimming... in your diagram, I don't see where the skimmer is going to go?
You may also want to plan a couple auxillary valves off your main loop to feed future reactors, etc off the main pump.
What did you have in mind for your return pump?
For the time being im going to continue using my Coralife SS125 in sump untill the funds become availabe,I plan on keeping my bioload light untill then.My first 2 prioritys are going to be a 3rd MH ballast and reflector.I plan on using the
Sunlight Supply Galaxy 250W Electronic Ballast and a retro reflector.Not sure which one yet.For my CL return im going to use Reeflo Dart with the returns going over the top.4 total .I plan on useing my sump return to supply my phos reactors.
Thanx for taking a peek
 
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