gill again68
Active Member
Did this blog break or something. I thought I read somewhere that there was gonna be some new pictures.
Someone is slacking or did those outside / inside cuts finally drive him over the edge
2Quills, 120G Re-build thread.
- Thread starter 2quills
- Start date
2quills
Well-Known Member
Bad news guys, I didn't get anything done to the stand yesterday partly because I was playing video games all day. But the other part was because i realized that I'm going to have to make a new canopy door. I had a feeling it was going to be an issue and I don't know if the cold weather the night before last did it or what...but my canopy door is starting to warp so I think I'm going to have to remake it with plywood.
gill again68
Active Member
Man I am sorry to hear that. The doors are solid panels? Well I know its a PITA but rather it happen now then after the stain.
BTW what games?
BTW what games?
2quills
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gill again68 http:///forum/thread/378912/2quills-120g-re-build-thread/260#post_3341606
Man I am sorry to hear that. The doors are solid panels? Well I know its a PITA but rather it happen now then after the stain.
BTW what games?
No worries, I actually wasn't all that crazy about the door to begin with after I made it. Just that door was solid wood. The others are made with 1/4" panels. So it was very heavy and I already figured it could be a problem one day. But yea you are right, it was good to see it happen now rather than after putting a bunch more work into it.
Been playin GT5 lately. I love my racing games.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al&Burke http:///forum/thread/378912/2quills-120g-re-build-thread/260#post_3341614
Sorry to hear that Corey, Could you make the new canopy door a panelled door, little more stable than a solid piece of wood in term of warping that is, and you could put that nice molding detail - maybe would tie it in nice with the bottom, JMHO
Yep Al, you read my mind. I think I have a nice idea of how I'd like to do it and tie it in. Just have to go out and get some more material now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Snapple http:///forum/thread/378912/2quills-120g-re-build-thread/260#post_3341643
I agree with Al and i think your next build should use walnut or brazilian cherry wood. I just love the color.
That would be nice. I need to find me someone who deals in exotic wood down here. There are some nice veneers out there too, I'd like to try my hand with some of that sometime.
Originally Posted by Gill again68 http:///forum/thread/378912/2quills-120g-re-build-thread/260#post_3341606
Man I am sorry to hear that. The doors are solid panels? Well I know its a PITA but rather it happen now then after the stain.
BTW what games?
No worries, I actually wasn't all that crazy about the door to begin with after I made it. Just that door was solid wood. The others are made with 1/4" panels. So it was very heavy and I already figured it could be a problem one day. But yea you are right, it was good to see it happen now rather than after putting a bunch more work into it.
Been playin GT5 lately. I love my racing games.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al&Burke http:///forum/thread/378912/2quills-120g-re-build-thread/260#post_3341614
Sorry to hear that Corey, Could you make the new canopy door a panelled door, little more stable than a solid piece of wood in term of warping that is, and you could put that nice molding detail - maybe would tie it in nice with the bottom, JMHO
Yep Al, you read my mind. I think I have a nice idea of how I'd like to do it and tie it in. Just have to go out and get some more material now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Snapple http:///forum/thread/378912/2quills-120g-re-build-thread/260#post_3341643
I agree with Al and i think your next build should use walnut or brazilian cherry wood. I just love the color.
That would be nice. I need to find me someone who deals in exotic wood down here. There are some nice veneers out there too, I'd like to try my hand with some of that sometime.
acrylic51
Active Member
That sucks Corey.....I noticed taking the pieces back and forth between the house and the garage just the temp change played a little h$ll on the fit.....It finally dawned on me what was going on.....I still haven't really thought about how to reinforce mine, but have a pretty good idea, but nothing confirmed yet though......
2quills
Well-Known Member
Hey, Shawn...it's warping from the bottom out. I snapped this pic this morning but it's only half as bad as it was when I noticed it the other day and it's never done that before. But it did get pretty cold downstairs the night that it happened. I'm worried that the urethane enamel paint may play a roll as well. When I was reading about the stuff they say to paint both sides if you're using it on wood. Especially like on doors, because it continues to shrink over time which gives it such a good bond that you should paint both sides. I was hoping it would be ok untill I finished the front side with stain and poly. It's actually going back down now but I don't trust it.
posiden
Active Member
That's a bummer about the door.
Have you thought about relieving the backside of the door to remove the stress? You could then maybe laminate a piece of formica to the back to keep it in check. The only other idea I have, is to place some strong backs on to hold the door flat.
Or, plane it down to a thickness of 1/4", then you could glue on a 1/2" thick plywood backer. That's of course assuming, that you have 3/4" lumber. IIRC you removed your screws from the pocket holes, right?
Have you thought about relieving the backside of the door to remove the stress? You could then maybe laminate a piece of formica to the back to keep it in check. The only other idea I have, is to place some strong backs on to hold the door flat.
Or, plane it down to a thickness of 1/4", then you could glue on a 1/2" thick plywood backer. That's of course assuming, that you have 3/4" lumber. IIRC you removed your screws from the pocket holes, right?
posiden
Active Member
Ya know....looking at your pics again. Are you sure the door is warped and not the 2x's behind the door? It almost looks like its flat but, not able to close all the way??
Edit;
I'm thinking that maybe that 2x has a twist in it? Looking at your pics on page 6, I can't see a center brace to keep that from happening. Your a very sharp guy and you've probably checked these things out. I'm just thinking out loud.
Edit;
I'm thinking that maybe that 2x has a twist in it? Looking at your pics on page 6, I can't see a center brace to keep that from happening. Your a very sharp guy and you've probably checked these things out. I'm just thinking out loud.
posiden
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al&Burke http:///forum/thread/378912/2quills-120g-re-build-thread/260#post_3342033
Corey Looking at that door you could recut it it looks like it was glued together - after you cut it flip it and it should straighten itself out. Just a thought.
I don't think he can afford the loss in width from the cut?
If cutting it apart is an option. I would cut it a few times and have more glue joints in the board. He could then alternate the grain to help it stay stable, like your saying. He's gonna need another board though, due to the loss of material from each cut.
Originally Posted by Al&Burke http:///forum/thread/378912/2quills-120g-re-build-thread/260#post_3342033
Corey Looking at that door you could recut it it looks like it was glued together - after you cut it flip it and it should straighten itself out. Just a thought.
I don't think he can afford the loss in width from the cut?
If cutting it apart is an option. I would cut it a few times and have more glue joints in the board. He could then alternate the grain to help it stay stable, like your saying. He's gonna need another board though, due to the loss of material from each cut.
acrylic51
Active Member
I'm more in line with Posiden's train of thought... I would actually use steel, fado the back of the door to accept the steel and tie the door tight to the steel. To prevent any rusting laminated the steel with epoxy and a outer skin as suggested!!!! The wood will not warp again with the steel and epoxy keeping it straight!!!
2quills
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys, those are all good ideas. I got home tonight and checked the door to find that it has gone back to the way it was before (meaning flat again). I'm almost positive that temperature is playing a big roll here. When I eye balled it on Sunday and Monday (yesterday) the door was still way off and I mean twice as worse as what you see in the pictures above. So I pulled it down and checked it for trueness. It's pretty strait as is stands right now I checked it with a carpenters square. There are some slight imperfections along the seam in the middle but I had intended on feathering those out with the sander (still do).
But you can see were the back of the door had been catching and rubbing in the top corners. There is a dark looking smugde or rub mark on the 2x2 from where the two were touching.
So I'm kinda with you guys on thinking that the door could be salvageable. If I go ahead and make some relief cuts on the back of the door (probably dado style) to allow it to close as much as it wants to and a small adjustment to the hinge I might be ok. Granted I would like to get the stain and poly on there pretty soon. Adding some steal support to the back might be a good idea as well. I'm thinking possibly some angle iron would be best. Perhaps two pieces, one on each end or about 3" in from the end...that would leave me some room to install a friction hinge. I'd also like to get some of those dampener style hinges that Shawn installed on his door to keep the door from slamming shut if it happens to get let go of, either by me or by some curious on-lookers.
So maybe not too big a deal with the door (I hope). I'll try some things out and see what happens and let y'all know.
Here's a quick mock up of my idea for the door. I was planning on the crown going around the top ofcorse and then trimming the parameter of the door with the same stuff as on the other doors. It will over lap on the sides a bit, just enough to hide the gaps on the sides of the door and hopefully disguise the door all together from the average eye. Also kicking around the idea of putting a carving on the door for a little decoration. I seen a pretty sweet one that I liked with 2 lions standing facing off at each other and then some nice design coming off of the back of em. And possibly a carving of a lion head in the middle of each of the two front doors of the stand?? (still thinking about it)
But you can see were the back of the door had been catching and rubbing in the top corners. There is a dark looking smugde or rub mark on the 2x2 from where the two were touching.
So I'm kinda with you guys on thinking that the door could be salvageable. If I go ahead and make some relief cuts on the back of the door (probably dado style) to allow it to close as much as it wants to and a small adjustment to the hinge I might be ok. Granted I would like to get the stain and poly on there pretty soon. Adding some steal support to the back might be a good idea as well. I'm thinking possibly some angle iron would be best. Perhaps two pieces, one on each end or about 3" in from the end...that would leave me some room to install a friction hinge. I'd also like to get some of those dampener style hinges that Shawn installed on his door to keep the door from slamming shut if it happens to get let go of, either by me or by some curious on-lookers.
So maybe not too big a deal with the door (I hope). I'll try some things out and see what happens and let y'all know.
Here's a quick mock up of my idea for the door. I was planning on the crown going around the top ofcorse and then trimming the parameter of the door with the same stuff as on the other doors. It will over lap on the sides a bit, just enough to hide the gaps on the sides of the door and hopefully disguise the door all together from the average eye. Also kicking around the idea of putting a carving on the door for a little decoration. I seen a pretty sweet one that I liked with 2 lions standing facing off at each other and then some nice design coming off of the back of em. And possibly a carving of a lion head in the middle of each of the two front doors of the stand?? (still thinking about it)
2quills
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Posiden http:///forum/thread/378912/2quills-120g-re-build-thread/260#post_3342140
Your using small piano type hinges right? Attached from the top?
Yeah, should I change that to be behind the door ya think?
Originally Posted by Posiden http:///forum/thread/378912/2quills-120g-re-build-thread/260#post_3342140
Your using small piano type hinges right? Attached from the top?
Yeah, should I change that to be behind the door ya think?