Coral Beauty - has ICH!!!!!!
- Thread starter al&burke
- Start date
tangs rule
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al&Burke http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich#post_3349084
OK here is my plan -
I have the CB out - I am going to put him in the 10 gallon for today
I have a 40 breeder empty - I will set that up for a hospital tank for the fish
Copper treat the CB right now in the ten gallon - he has alot of spots but is stil eating
Get all the other fish out into the 40 breeder and start treatment.
Leave DT empty of fish for 6 to 8 weeks as prescribed
Now HT do I cooper or hypo - I am leaning towrd cooper.
Thanks everyone.
Great plan, thats exactly what i'd do. Be very sure to dose the cupramine as directed, never dose to coppersafe values - cupramine is stronger and much less is used. do not mix them either, it'll mess up most copper tests and give funny values - so use one or the other. I just got some new little ones in this morn and put them in a 30 Q tank @ 10am. It is only 1/2 dosed with copper (coppersafe) now, will make sure everyone is still eating 2 morrow and go to 100% dose by midday. I'll also begin dropping salinity during 3-5 gal waterchanges starting sun or monday and gradually reduce to 1.012 - 1.014 - - just to releive stress on the fishes..... I'm not a fan of using hypo only to control ich, copper does alot better, and in severe parasite cases some formalin too with extreme caution.
Also once a week, it really helps to breakdown the Q tank; fishes go in buckets (or another Q tank) remove everything and flush it out good - espically scrubbing the tank bottom and running hot water thru it - same with any PVC thingys. This removes the ich cysts (tomont / tomite stage) before some of them hatch and have to be killed with the copper treatment. The more of them u can send down the drain the better! then refil Q tank with water of the same salinity as where u were at before, redose copper meds, get it running again, and back go fish.
the Q set up as of yesterday: it now has some little ones beginning treatment
Originally Posted by Al&Burke http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich#post_3349084
OK here is my plan -
I have the CB out - I am going to put him in the 10 gallon for today
I have a 40 breeder empty - I will set that up for a hospital tank for the fish
Copper treat the CB right now in the ten gallon - he has alot of spots but is stil eating
Get all the other fish out into the 40 breeder and start treatment.
Leave DT empty of fish for 6 to 8 weeks as prescribed
Now HT do I cooper or hypo - I am leaning towrd cooper.
Thanks everyone.
Great plan, thats exactly what i'd do. Be very sure to dose the cupramine as directed, never dose to coppersafe values - cupramine is stronger and much less is used. do not mix them either, it'll mess up most copper tests and give funny values - so use one or the other. I just got some new little ones in this morn and put them in a 30 Q tank @ 10am. It is only 1/2 dosed with copper (coppersafe) now, will make sure everyone is still eating 2 morrow and go to 100% dose by midday. I'll also begin dropping salinity during 3-5 gal waterchanges starting sun or monday and gradually reduce to 1.012 - 1.014 - - just to releive stress on the fishes..... I'm not a fan of using hypo only to control ich, copper does alot better, and in severe parasite cases some formalin too with extreme caution.
Also once a week, it really helps to breakdown the Q tank; fishes go in buckets (or another Q tank) remove everything and flush it out good - espically scrubbing the tank bottom and running hot water thru it - same with any PVC thingys. This removes the ich cysts (tomont / tomite stage) before some of them hatch and have to be killed with the copper treatment. The more of them u can send down the drain the better! then refil Q tank with water of the same salinity as where u were at before, redose copper meds, get it running again, and back go fish.
the Q set up as of yesterday: it now has some little ones beginning treatment
al&burke
Active Member
Thanks tangs rule, I haven't seen you on this site yet, welcome to SWF - I am going to take this opprotunity to do a lot of work to my display tank. Currently I am running a FX5 canister filter. I am putting my 40 gallon breeder together tomorrow, going to put all the fish from the reef DT. I am going to take everything out of my DT except the sand, drill it out install an overflow and go to a sump/fuge set up. I can put all the live rock and coral in tubs - I have enough PH and heaters to keep everything good. I want to re-aquascape everything. Also I have two BTA - the single one I had just split a couple of weeks ago. Take them out carefully mayvbe bring one of them to my LFS for some credit. I want to make some real nice caves and overhangs for the fish and corals. this might turn out to be a positive out of a negative. Definately QT everything from now on and do you guys QT corrals.
meowzer
Moderator
I'm sorry Al.....I did not comment on the cupramine because I have no experience with it......
a lot of people have used it though......I think I would have gone with hypo myself....you will need to doo all the fish (which you know) and leave the tank empty of fish also (which you know)
so why add anything at all that is just my opinion
a lot of people have used it though......I think I would have gone with hypo myself....you will need to doo all the fish (which you know) and leave the tank empty of fish also (which you know)
so why add anything at all that is just my opinion
meowzer
Moderator
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al&Burke http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/20#post_3349361
No problem meowzer, your pictures of your corals look great. I think I should be alright in a few months - lot a stuff ahead of me.
Yeah, you will be okay.....just take it slow and leave the tank fallow for the full time recommended
the hard part IMO is to catch the other fish
Originally Posted by Al&Burke http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/20#post_3349361
No problem meowzer, your pictures of your corals look great. I think I should be alright in a few months - lot a stuff ahead of me.
Yeah, you will be okay.....just take it slow and leave the tank fallow for the full time recommended
the hard part IMO is to catch the other fish
al&burke
Active Member
I just want to run this by everyone again.
1) Setting up 40 for HT
2) Moving all my fish into HT for treatment and holding - 6 to 8 weeks
3) No fish in DT for 6 to 8 weeks - inverts are OK - nothing new
4) re-aquascape - move everything to tokes - 2 to 3 days - Drill tank - overflow - new sump/fuge
5) Put all live rock back in DT - new aquascape.
6) After 8 weeks - fish back into DT
7) Revamp 40 breeder for FOWLR or frag tank
8) 25 or 35 gallon for permanent QT - for fish and corals
The reason I want to rescape my tank is that I feel it does not have enought height and larger caves. I want to drill and secure with acrylic rods - epoxy everything together.
1) Setting up 40 for HT
2) Moving all my fish into HT for treatment and holding - 6 to 8 weeks
3) No fish in DT for 6 to 8 weeks - inverts are OK - nothing new
4) re-aquascape - move everything to tokes - 2 to 3 days - Drill tank - overflow - new sump/fuge
5) Put all live rock back in DT - new aquascape.
6) After 8 weeks - fish back into DT
7) Revamp 40 breeder for FOWLR or frag tank
8) 25 or 35 gallon for permanent QT - for fish and corals
The reason I want to rescape my tank is that I feel it does not have enought height and larger caves. I want to drill and secure with acrylic rods - epoxy everything together.
deejeff442
Active Member
as the ich is dropping this is the time the treatment works.so make sure you either have the copper in there or it in hypo.if you wait till the ich reproduces then becomes water bourne you missed your chance to kill it.the treatments only work in the stage where you dont see it.
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al&Burke http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/20#post_3349382
I just want to run this by everyone again.
1) Setting up 40 for HT
2) Moving all my fish into HT for treatment and holding - 6 to 8 weeks
3) No fish in DT for 6 to 8 weeks - inverts are OK - nothing new
4) re-aquascape - move everything to tokes - 2 to 3 days - Drill tank - overflow - new sump/fuge
5) Put all live rock back in DT - new aquascape.
6) After 8 weeks - fish back into DT
7) Revamp 40 breeder for FOWLR or frag tank
8) 25 or 35 gallon for permanent QT - for fish and corals
The reason I want to rescape my tank is that I feel it does not have enought height and larger caves. I want to drill and secure with acrylic rods - epoxy everything together.
Wow Al,
Looks like you really got it together with a great plan.
Just a suggestion on aquascaping to toss it out there for height, have you ever considered maybe a partial rock wall? Since your breaking everything down anyway. I will be doing that of I ever have to clear my 90g. or replace it.
Originally Posted by Al&Burke http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/20#post_3349382
I just want to run this by everyone again.
1) Setting up 40 for HT
2) Moving all my fish into HT for treatment and holding - 6 to 8 weeks
3) No fish in DT for 6 to 8 weeks - inverts are OK - nothing new
4) re-aquascape - move everything to tokes - 2 to 3 days - Drill tank - overflow - new sump/fuge
5) Put all live rock back in DT - new aquascape.
6) After 8 weeks - fish back into DT
7) Revamp 40 breeder for FOWLR or frag tank
8) 25 or 35 gallon for permanent QT - for fish and corals
The reason I want to rescape my tank is that I feel it does not have enought height and larger caves. I want to drill and secure with acrylic rods - epoxy everything together.
Wow Al,
Looks like you really got it together with a great plan.
Just a suggestion on aquascaping to toss it out there for height, have you ever considered maybe a partial rock wall? Since your breaking everything down anyway. I will be doing that of I ever have to clear my 90g. or replace it.
tangs rule
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al&Burke http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/20#post_3349382
I just want to run this by everyone again.
1) Setting up 40 for HT
2) Moving all my fish into HT for treatment and holding - 6 to 8 weeks
3) No fish in DT for 6 to 8 weeks - inverts are OK - nothing new
4) re-aquascape - move everything to tokes - 2 to 3 days - Drill tank - overflow - new sump/fuge
5) Put all live rock back in DT - new aquascape.
6) After 8 weeks - fish back into DT
7) Revamp 40 breeder for FOWLR or frag tank
8) 25 or 35 gallon for permanent QT - for fish and corals
The reason I want to rescape my tank is that I feel it does not have enought height and larger caves. I want to drill and secure with acrylic rods - epoxy everything together.
Sounds like a great plan - an earlier post of yours asked about Qtine on corals and YES it is a must on reef tank. The baserock or frag holder of a new coral can house a fishbourne infection/parasite just as easy as the water it came with - or a new fish... I found it very difficult when I first got into reeftanks (from FOWLR) to maintain a 30 gal coral Q tank, cause it's gotta be of just as high quality water & light as the main. But it is a must cause there are other nightmares that can arrive on corals (aiptasia) or anything that came from the wild or some other system that can bring disaster to the fish or corals. I found it was best to leave a small coral Q tank up & running all the time until I was sure I was done adding corals to the mains, so it was very well established with all microscopic cuc and stable parameters. It ran for 1.5 years...And obviously a seperate Q tank for fish.....and a standby tank for emergencies........and some more tanks for seperating anyone who throws a fit while in Q.......I think I've got about 6 tanks from 20 - 75 gallon for Qtine or emergency use that Ive collected over the years, with more smaller tanks in the 6-10 gal range> > at least they are cheap compared to the mains!
Other than that, you've got a good handle on it, done freeze up there! keep us posted
Originally Posted by Al&Burke http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/20#post_3349382
I just want to run this by everyone again.
1) Setting up 40 for HT
2) Moving all my fish into HT for treatment and holding - 6 to 8 weeks
3) No fish in DT for 6 to 8 weeks - inverts are OK - nothing new
4) re-aquascape - move everything to tokes - 2 to 3 days - Drill tank - overflow - new sump/fuge
5) Put all live rock back in DT - new aquascape.
6) After 8 weeks - fish back into DT
7) Revamp 40 breeder for FOWLR or frag tank
8) 25 or 35 gallon for permanent QT - for fish and corals
The reason I want to rescape my tank is that I feel it does not have enought height and larger caves. I want to drill and secure with acrylic rods - epoxy everything together.
Sounds like a great plan - an earlier post of yours asked about Qtine on corals and YES it is a must on reef tank. The baserock or frag holder of a new coral can house a fishbourne infection/parasite just as easy as the water it came with - or a new fish... I found it very difficult when I first got into reeftanks (from FOWLR) to maintain a 30 gal coral Q tank, cause it's gotta be of just as high quality water & light as the main. But it is a must cause there are other nightmares that can arrive on corals (aiptasia) or anything that came from the wild or some other system that can bring disaster to the fish or corals. I found it was best to leave a small coral Q tank up & running all the time until I was sure I was done adding corals to the mains, so it was very well established with all microscopic cuc and stable parameters. It ran for 1.5 years...And obviously a seperate Q tank for fish.....and a standby tank for emergencies........and some more tanks for seperating anyone who throws a fit while in Q.......I think I've got about 6 tanks from 20 - 75 gallon for Qtine or emergency use that Ive collected over the years, with more smaller tanks in the 6-10 gal range> > at least they are cheap compared to the mains!
Other than that, you've got a good handle on it, done freeze up there! keep us posted
deejeff442
Active Member
i can say ich can come in on corals.i added 4 corals to mr reef and i lost most of my fish to ich.probably $1000 worth.i treated the fish once with copper and twice with hypo and it wouldnt go away.seems ich now a days it more resilient.
gemmy
Active Member
Al, if you are leaning to copper make sure you get a copper test kit. Now will you be using ionic copper or chelated copper? Once you know which one, make sure to get the correct test kit. You will have to test the water daily to ensure the correct, therapeutic levels are maintained.
And sorry to hear that you must fight the ich battle.
And sorry to hear that you must fight the ich battle.
tangs rule
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by deejeff442 http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/20#post_3349474
i can say ich can come in on corals.i added 4 corals to mr reef and i lost most of my fish to ich.probably $1000 worth.i treated the fish once with copper and twice with hypo and it wouldnt go away.seems ich now a days it more resilient.
It is also thought that there are different strains of Ich, and with that, different intensities of it, and different responses from various fish.... Ich in the wild in Tonga is slightly different from Ich from the Caribbean - but fish from Tonga have never experienced the Caribbean strain and have NO natural immunity to that strain....rendering the Atlantic tropical Ich strain more "potent" to fish from tropic Pacific regions and much harder to treat/save the fish......makes sense.... I know I've had to fight off some awful tuff Ich over the years, while sometimes it's not that bad....
Originally Posted by deejeff442 http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/20#post_3349474
i can say ich can come in on corals.i added 4 corals to mr reef and i lost most of my fish to ich.probably $1000 worth.i treated the fish once with copper and twice with hypo and it wouldnt go away.seems ich now a days it more resilient.
It is also thought that there are different strains of Ich, and with that, different intensities of it, and different responses from various fish.... Ich in the wild in Tonga is slightly different from Ich from the Caribbean - but fish from Tonga have never experienced the Caribbean strain and have NO natural immunity to that strain....rendering the Atlantic tropical Ich strain more "potent" to fish from tropic Pacific regions and much harder to treat/save the fish......makes sense.... I know I've had to fight off some awful tuff Ich over the years, while sometimes it's not that bad....
al&burke
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/20#post_3349450
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al&Burke http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/20#post_3349382
I just want to run this by everyone again.
1) Setting up 40 for HT
2) Moving all my fish into HT for treatment and holding - 6 to 8 weeks
3) No fish in DT for 6 to 8 weeks - inverts are OK - nothing new
4) re-aquascape - move everything to tokes - 2 to 3 days - Drill tank - overflow - new sump/fuge
5) Put all live rock back in DT - new aquascape.
6) After 8 weeks - fish back into DT
7) Revamp 40 breeder for FOWLR or frag tank
8) 25 or 35 gallon for permanent QT - for fish and corals
The reason I want to rescape my tank is that I feel it does not have enought height and larger caves. I want to drill and secure with acrylic rods - epoxy everything together.
Wow Al,
Looks like you really got it together with a great plan.
Just a suggestion on aquascaping to toss it out there for height, have you ever considered maybe a partial rock wall? Since your breaking everything down anyway. I will be doing that of I ever have to clear my 90g. or replace it.
Thanks Flower, by rock wall you mean the foam and rock, yes - I totally forgot about that. Good time to do that as well. Tell me if I take all the sand out am I looking for trouble.
Originally Posted by Flower http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/20#post_3349450
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al&Burke http:///forum/thread/383159/coral-beauty-has-ich/20#post_3349382
I just want to run this by everyone again.
1) Setting up 40 for HT
2) Moving all my fish into HT for treatment and holding - 6 to 8 weeks
3) No fish in DT for 6 to 8 weeks - inverts are OK - nothing new
4) re-aquascape - move everything to tokes - 2 to 3 days - Drill tank - overflow - new sump/fuge
5) Put all live rock back in DT - new aquascape.
6) After 8 weeks - fish back into DT
7) Revamp 40 breeder for FOWLR or frag tank
8) 25 or 35 gallon for permanent QT - for fish and corals
The reason I want to rescape my tank is that I feel it does not have enought height and larger caves. I want to drill and secure with acrylic rods - epoxy everything together.
Wow Al,
Looks like you really got it together with a great plan.
Just a suggestion on aquascaping to toss it out there for height, have you ever considered maybe a partial rock wall? Since your breaking everything down anyway. I will be doing that of I ever have to clear my 90g. or replace it.
Thanks Flower, by rock wall you mean the foam and rock, yes - I totally forgot about that. Good time to do that as well. Tell me if I take all the sand out am I looking for trouble.