sepulatian
Moderator
Hey Liz, how are the fish????? Doing well I hope!
L
lpuzon
Guest
Originally Posted by sepulatian
Hey Liz, how are the fish????? Doing well I hope!
hey, sepulatian!!! i ddin't even know that u have a new post! thanks for asking!
ok, update -->
my water parameters are: (this is latest as of last night around 12mn)
ammo 0
trite 0
ph 8.2
trate 80 ....it's high, i know, i'm looking for a series WC hoping this would get down.
spgh .009 (this is from the new refracto that i ordered
)
temp 78
ich is still on all of the fishes.... the clown, angel,and one of the damsels have 1 or 2 on their body, not more than that. the pakistan, a couple, lke 5 or so.....the puffer, got the same rate, or lesser.... the kole, probably around 10, and the hippo, still all over her......
however, i noticed, the ich on the hippo's body is diminishing....little by little. the spots are getting smaller and smaller, though, she still got a lot of them. so, i am thinking this is a good sign.
they are still eating BIG!!! nobody is getting weak or whatnot....actually, i really thought, they got bigger, bec the hippo got rounder! plus the clown, whom i thought is getting less active before, is now hungier than ever. a friend of mine gave me home made fish food that he made, (got pieces of squid and sort of, and lots and lots of garlic) which they all like, i swear!!! of course, i always offer them variety of diet, like spirulina flakes, regular flakes, brine, mysis, formula one, krill, live ghost shrimp, seaweed algae....all soaked with vitachem and garlic juice at times....
the puffer, is back to her regular self! (thanks a lot, lion_crazz!! u made it possible
) she went back eating the frozen krills, (still won't take other ones
) but though, she got spoiled with the ghost shrimps, that sometimes, i really have to feed her that, bec she only eats a little of the krill, and spit it out! but, she goes back trailing at my fingers now!!!
it's officially a month since i started hypo...i swear, if i probably have not seen any development on the hippo, i could have done the coppersafe already! i actually bought one, but had million thoughts about it. so, it's still sitting there.
the aqua uv is also been set...i keep it on for about 4 to 6 hours a day. (hey, lazy! hope this really works! ahahhahaha
)
thanks guys! will still keep u all posted!!!
liz
Hey Liz, how are the fish????? Doing well I hope!
hey, sepulatian!!! i ddin't even know that u have a new post! thanks for asking!
ok, update -->
my water parameters are: (this is latest as of last night around 12mn)
ammo 0
trite 0
ph 8.2
trate 80 ....it's high, i know, i'm looking for a series WC hoping this would get down.
spgh .009 (this is from the new refracto that i ordered
temp 78
ich is still on all of the fishes.... the clown, angel,and one of the damsels have 1 or 2 on their body, not more than that. the pakistan, a couple, lke 5 or so.....the puffer, got the same rate, or lesser.... the kole, probably around 10, and the hippo, still all over her......
however, i noticed, the ich on the hippo's body is diminishing....little by little. the spots are getting smaller and smaller, though, she still got a lot of them. so, i am thinking this is a good sign.
they are still eating BIG!!! nobody is getting weak or whatnot....actually, i really thought, they got bigger, bec the hippo got rounder! plus the clown, whom i thought is getting less active before, is now hungier than ever. a friend of mine gave me home made fish food that he made, (got pieces of squid and sort of, and lots and lots of garlic) which they all like, i swear!!! of course, i always offer them variety of diet, like spirulina flakes, regular flakes, brine, mysis, formula one, krill, live ghost shrimp, seaweed algae....all soaked with vitachem and garlic juice at times....
the puffer, is back to her regular self! (thanks a lot, lion_crazz!! u made it possible
it's officially a month since i started hypo...i swear, if i probably have not seen any development on the hippo, i could have done the coppersafe already! i actually bought one, but had million thoughts about it. so, it's still sitting there.
the aqua uv is also been set...i keep it on for about 4 to 6 hours a day. (hey, lazy! hope this really works! ahahhahaha
thanks guys! will still keep u all posted!!!
liz
lion_crazz
Active Member
Why are you only running the UV 4 to 6 hours a day?
You definitely need a big water change to get those nitrates down.
You definitely need a big water change to get those nitrates down.
L
lpuzon
Guest
Originally Posted by lion_crazz
Why are you only running the UV 4 to 6 hours a day?
You definitely need a big water change to get those nitrates down.
shld i put it on 24/7? i read a lot of different things, so i decided on 6 hours...
big WC, that's definitley what i'm gonna do. i noticed something though, my pakistan, she's kind of swelled up on her top fin, i'm not sure. it's like her scales are upright. and i saw her lose 1 scale....
pls, i'm thinking, shld i use my coppersafe now?
Why are you only running the UV 4 to 6 hours a day?
You definitely need a big water change to get those nitrates down.
shld i put it on 24/7? i read a lot of different things, so i decided on 6 hours...
big WC, that's definitley what i'm gonna do. i noticed something though, my pakistan, she's kind of swelled up on her top fin, i'm not sure. it's like her scales are upright. and i saw her lose 1 scale....
pls, i'm thinking, shld i use my coppersafe now?
sepulatian
Moderator
Originally Posted by lpuzon
shld i put it on 24/7? i read a lot of different things, so i decided on 6 hours...
big WC, that's definitley what i'm gonna do. i noticed something though, my pakistan, she's kind of swelled up on her top fin, i'm not sure. it's like her scales are upright. and i saw her lose 1 scale....
pls, i'm thinking, shld i use my coppersafe now?
Yeah, Liz you definately need to get those trates down. Nitrates that high are going to cause stress to your fish, Stress lowers their immune system which makes it harder for them to fight the ich and other diseases. You don't want to have them get secondary infections on top of the ich. I am glad to hear that your fish are eating and acting well
shld i put it on 24/7? i read a lot of different things, so i decided on 6 hours...
big WC, that's definitley what i'm gonna do. i noticed something though, my pakistan, she's kind of swelled up on her top fin, i'm not sure. it's like her scales are upright. and i saw her lose 1 scale....
pls, i'm thinking, shld i use my coppersafe now?
Yeah, Liz you definately need to get those trates down. Nitrates that high are going to cause stress to your fish, Stress lowers their immune system which makes it harder for them to fight the ich and other diseases. You don't want to have them get secondary infections on top of the ich. I am glad to hear that your fish are eating and acting well
L
lpuzon
Guest
Originally Posted by sepulatian
Yeah, Liz you definately need to get those trates down. Nitrates that high are going to cause stress to your fish, Stress lowers their immune system which makes it harder for them to fight the ich and other diseases. You don't want to have them get secondary infections on top of the ich. I am glad to hear that your fish are eating and acting well
really confused right now
. how about putting them all in a 20g tank and do hypo there to have the MT fishless?> i can have anything biger than that. and plus, i'll put that tank in the basement...i still think this is not working. (even if i saw a little development on the hippo...or am i kididng myself?)
Yeah, Liz you definately need to get those trates down. Nitrates that high are going to cause stress to your fish, Stress lowers their immune system which makes it harder for them to fight the ich and other diseases. You don't want to have them get secondary infections on top of the ich. I am glad to hear that your fish are eating and acting well
really confused right now
hipsterism
New Member
Originally Posted by lpuzon
really confused right now
.
Hey basically what your tank is a closed ecosystem. In the wild ick doesn't get a strong hold based on size, tide, and movement. It is why icks breeds the way it does, exponential, so it can survive. The intention of ick is not to kill the host. However, in a closed environment like your tank it keeps re-infecting the original host over and over again until it dies. The tangs and other fish with the same nocturnal behaviors are the first to get it because they sleep in the same place every night. When the ick reaches the trophont stage it leaves the host to multiply, and it does, re-infecting the host and multiplying until the tank is so full of the ick parasite no fish will be save from the infestation.
With your 72 gallon you should be able to economically deal with the problem in your display tank. Get the water quality in line as fast as possible. As someoone else stated early in the thread the fish can get infections when the ick leaves the fish, and you don’t want to put an antibiotic in the water of your DT. Low to 0 nitrates will help the cause. :happyfish
really confused right now
Hey basically what your tank is a closed ecosystem. In the wild ick doesn't get a strong hold based on size, tide, and movement. It is why icks breeds the way it does, exponential, so it can survive. The intention of ick is not to kill the host. However, in a closed environment like your tank it keeps re-infecting the original host over and over again until it dies. The tangs and other fish with the same nocturnal behaviors are the first to get it because they sleep in the same place every night. When the ick reaches the trophont stage it leaves the host to multiply, and it does, re-infecting the host and multiplying until the tank is so full of the ick parasite no fish will be save from the infestation.
With your 72 gallon you should be able to economically deal with the problem in your display tank. Get the water quality in line as fast as possible. As someoone else stated early in the thread the fish can get infections when the ick leaves the fish, and you don’t want to put an antibiotic in the water of your DT. Low to 0 nitrates will help the cause. :happyfish
L
lpuzon
Guest
Originally Posted by hipsterism
Hey basically what your tank is a closed ecosystem. In the wild ick doesn't get a strong hold based on size, tide, and movement. It is why icks breeds the way it does, exponential, so it can survive. The intention of ick is not to kill the host. However, in a closed environment like your tank it keeps re-infecting the original host over and over again until it dies. The tangs and other fish with the same nocturnal behaviors are the first to get it because they sleep in the same place every night. When the ick reaches the trophont stage it leaves the host to multiply, and it does, re-infecting the host and multiplying until the tank is so full of the ick parasite no fish will be save from the infestation.
With your 72 gallon you should be able to economically deal with the problem in your display tank. Get the water quality in line as fast as possible. As someoone else stated early in the thread the fish can get infections when the ick leaves the fish, and you don’t want to put an antibiotic in the water of your DT. Low to 0 nitrates will help the cause. :happyfish
thanks hipsterism! that's exactly what i'm gonna do right now. i bought a big bag of salt, and i'll start filling in my buckets. gradually in two weeks right?
i'm gonna do a partial WC by tomorrow, probably 15g. i also have put 5c of salt already in a rubbermaid right now... hopefully will be ready for tomorrow...i'll level up my spgh now, and do as u have said. i'm also thinking of adding 2 or 3 cleaner shrimps in 2 wks, and throw in some snails to help reduce food residue. i would try these combination together with my uv, hope this work.
lion_crazz, you think this is a good idea?
Hey basically what your tank is a closed ecosystem. In the wild ick doesn't get a strong hold based on size, tide, and movement. It is why icks breeds the way it does, exponential, so it can survive. The intention of ick is not to kill the host. However, in a closed environment like your tank it keeps re-infecting the original host over and over again until it dies. The tangs and other fish with the same nocturnal behaviors are the first to get it because they sleep in the same place every night. When the ick reaches the trophont stage it leaves the host to multiply, and it does, re-infecting the host and multiplying until the tank is so full of the ick parasite no fish will be save from the infestation.
With your 72 gallon you should be able to economically deal with the problem in your display tank. Get the water quality in line as fast as possible. As someoone else stated early in the thread the fish can get infections when the ick leaves the fish, and you don’t want to put an antibiotic in the water of your DT. Low to 0 nitrates will help the cause. :happyfish
thanks hipsterism! that's exactly what i'm gonna do right now. i bought a big bag of salt, and i'll start filling in my buckets. gradually in two weeks right?
i'm gonna do a partial WC by tomorrow, probably 15g. i also have put 5c of salt already in a rubbermaid right now... hopefully will be ready for tomorrow...i'll level up my spgh now, and do as u have said. i'm also thinking of adding 2 or 3 cleaner shrimps in 2 wks, and throw in some snails to help reduce food residue. i would try these combination together with my uv, hope this work.
lion_crazz, you think this is a good idea?
lion_crazz
Active Member
I don't think this is a very good idea at all. If this is ich, hypo is the only way you are going to get rid of it permanently.
Everything in hipsterism post sounded really good, but you are not going to get rid of ich if you allow it to continue to reproduce. Your biggest concern right now is to get your water in check. I don't remember reading it, but how did you calibrate this refractometer?
Everything in hipsterism post sounded really good, but you are not going to get rid of ich if you allow it to continue to reproduce. Your biggest concern right now is to get your water in check. I don't remember reading it, but how did you calibrate this refractometer?
L
lpuzon
Guest
Originally Posted by lion_crazz
I don't think this is a very good idea at all. If this is ich, hypo is the only way you are going to get rid of it permanently.
Everything in hipsterism post sounded really good, but you are not going to get rid of ich if you allow it to continue to reproduce. Your biggest concern right now is to get your water in check. I don't remember reading it, but how did you calibrate this refractometer?
i used ro water. put a few drops of water on the prism. after a few seconds, i looked through the eyepiece and turned the screw until it went to 0.0. did i do it right?
I don't think this is a very good idea at all. If this is ich, hypo is the only way you are going to get rid of it permanently.
Everything in hipsterism post sounded really good, but you are not going to get rid of ich if you allow it to continue to reproduce. Your biggest concern right now is to get your water in check. I don't remember reading it, but how did you calibrate this refractometer?
i used ro water. put a few drops of water on the prism. after a few seconds, i looked through the eyepiece and turned the screw until it went to 0.0. did i do it right?
lion_crazz
Active Member
Yes, sounds right to me.
lion_crazz
Active Member
Explain to me how you have this tank set-up. Do you have gravel/sand in this tank?
How long have you had this tank in hypo?
How long have you had this tank in hypo?
L
lpuzon
Guest
Originally Posted by lion_crazz
Explain to me how you have this tank set-up. Do you have gravel/sand in this tank?
How long have you had this tank in hypo?
it's a 72g, i have 50-60 lbs of CCs as my substrate... i use wet/dry filter using bioballs, using rio2100 as my return pump. an overflow box (i dont know the size...)i have a remora skimmer with rio1200 on it.. a rio 200 powerhead. i'm using aqua 15w uv sterilizer.
20-30lbs of LR are at my LFS right now while i'm doing my hypo...which is at its 4th week on the 23rd.
what else should i include?
Explain to me how you have this tank set-up. Do you have gravel/sand in this tank?
How long have you had this tank in hypo?
it's a 72g, i have 50-60 lbs of CCs as my substrate... i use wet/dry filter using bioballs, using rio2100 as my return pump. an overflow box (i dont know the size...)i have a remora skimmer with rio1200 on it.. a rio 200 powerhead. i'm using aqua 15w uv sterilizer.
20-30lbs of LR are at my LFS right now while i'm doing my hypo...which is at its 4th week on the 23rd.
what else should i include?
lion_crazz
Active Member
No, that was all I needed. I think the crushed coral is a huge reason why you are having such a bad nitrate problem.
How long have you been running this hypo with the new refractometer?
How long have you been running this hypo with the new refractometer?
L
lpuzon
Guest
Originally Posted by lion_crazz
No, that was all I needed. I think the crushed coral is a huge reason why you are having such a bad nitrate problem.
How long have you been running this hypo with the new refractometer?
with the new refracto, barely a week....i shld wait right?
with the CCs, i haven't done WC in a week, i also think that probably be it. i can't change it to LS yet, i'm looking at a big move before year ends, unfortunately...
No, that was all I needed. I think the crushed coral is a huge reason why you are having such a bad nitrate problem.
How long have you been running this hypo with the new refractometer?
with the new refracto, barely a week....i shld wait right?
with the CCs, i haven't done WC in a week, i also think that probably be it. i can't change it to LS yet, i'm looking at a big move before year ends, unfortunately...
lion_crazz
Active Member
I would definitely wait. Who knows if your last refractometer was reading accurately. Bringing up your salinity will only give the ich strength.
I would be doing water changes in this tank on a regular basis to keep the nitrates down. I would probably start slowly removing crushed coral also. Take out a netful every 3 to 4 days and do a partial water change when you do to suck up the nitrates that the crushed coral releases.
When you do the water change, make up the water to 1.009 and make sure the dkH is at least 9. Also, make sure the temp is the same as your hypo tank.
I would be doing water changes in this tank on a regular basis to keep the nitrates down. I would probably start slowly removing crushed coral also. Take out a netful every 3 to 4 days and do a partial water change when you do to suck up the nitrates that the crushed coral releases.
When you do the water change, make up the water to 1.009 and make sure the dkH is at least 9. Also, make sure the temp is the same as your hypo tank.
L
lpuzon
Guest
Originally Posted by lion_crazz
I would definitely wait. Who knows if your last refractometer was reading accurately. Bringing up your salinity will only give the ich strength.
I would be doing water changes in this tank on a regular basis to keep the nitrates down. I would probably start slowly removing crushed coral also. Take out a netful every 3 to 4 days and do a partial water change when you do to suck up the nitrates that the crushed coral releases.
When you do the water change, make up the water to 1.009 and make sure the dkH is at least 9. Also, make sure the temp is the same as your hypo tank.
hmm....shld i replace CCs with LS every time i do take them out? or wait till they're almost gone?
lion, i also returned the coppersafe, but replaced it with kent rxp. should i use it? i'm very much concerned right now.
plus, i think i have to separate the pakistan. i mentioned probably 2 days ago that the pakistan's scales are "upright". well, they're still is, and most of hers now. looks like she may have lost a couple of scales, too....
thanks u so much for helping me...
liz
I would definitely wait. Who knows if your last refractometer was reading accurately. Bringing up your salinity will only give the ich strength.
I would be doing water changes in this tank on a regular basis to keep the nitrates down. I would probably start slowly removing crushed coral also. Take out a netful every 3 to 4 days and do a partial water change when you do to suck up the nitrates that the crushed coral releases.
When you do the water change, make up the water to 1.009 and make sure the dkH is at least 9. Also, make sure the temp is the same as your hypo tank.
hmm....shld i replace CCs with LS every time i do take them out? or wait till they're almost gone?
lion, i also returned the coppersafe, but replaced it with kent rxp. should i use it? i'm very much concerned right now.
plus, i think i have to separate the pakistan. i mentioned probably 2 days ago that the pakistan's scales are "upright". well, they're still is, and most of hers now. looks like she may have lost a couple of scales, too....
thanks u so much for helping me...
liz
lion_crazz
Active Member
Kent RxP is terrible too. I would definitely not use that. I would not put live sand in yet, but I would start removing the CC slowly over the course of a month or two. That will help with your nitrates, and help get the ich out of the substrate.
L
lpuzon
Guest
Originally Posted by lion_crazz
Kent RxP is terrible too. I would definitely not use that. I would not put live sand in yet, but I would start removing the CC slowly over the course of a month or two. That will help with your nitrates, and help get the ich out of the substrate.
ok. i'm doing WC as we speak....i'll start that now. i'll post some later. thanks!!!
do u have some kind of info for what might be happening with the pakistan?
Kent RxP is terrible too. I would definitely not use that. I would not put live sand in yet, but I would start removing the CC slowly over the course of a month or two. That will help with your nitrates, and help get the ich out of the substrate.
ok. i'm doing WC as we speak....i'll start that now. i'll post some later. thanks!!!
do u have some kind of info for what might be happening with the pakistan?
hipsterism
New Member
Originally Posted by lion_crazz
My first question to you is is this definitely ich? Or could it be velvet (which is not treatable by hypo)?
Lion_Crazz I see that you have left 8500 plus replys so I understand you opinion is valued but I have followed this thread from the beginning and read as this poor girl has gotten a ton of different and conflicting advice. Some of it from you.
I got it that you believe Hypo is the only way to treat ick, but I think you are misleading her if you state that this is the only effective treatment. Hypo is no better at curing ick than copper, SP or any of the other treatments. If one thing is agreed upon the water quality is the key. Regular water changes following the parasites life cycle is good a treatment and any of the one suggested here in this thread.
"I don't think this is a very good idea at all. If this is ich, hypo is the only way you are going to get rid of it permanently."
Now that is misleading, you will never get rid of the ick it needs to be managed by water changes and water quality. She is showing nitrates 80 ppm, do you think the fish are a little stressed?
"but you are not going to get rid of ich if you allow it to continue to reproduce. Your biggest concern right now is to get your water in check"
Hence the water changes and vacuuming the substrate. On this one I am with you replace the CC and you need a whole lot more live rock than 25 pds for a 72 gal tank. More like a 100 pds that will also keep the nitrates down.
"Bringing up your salinity will only give the ich strength."
Water Changes will cut the number of ick and improve the water quality.
"I would be doing water changes in this tank on a regular basis to keep the nitrates down."
This is probably how the ick got the foot hold in the first place. I agree water changes.
Look I am not trying to causing an up roar but this has been going for around five weeks and she hasn't had success. So she either doesn't have the tools to get the salt levels right or it isn't working. So bringing the salt levels up and putting the live rock back and getting the water quality back in order doesn't seem like any worse of an idea then what has already proceeded.
Just the action of doing something doesn't fix it.
My first question to you is is this definitely ich? Or could it be velvet (which is not treatable by hypo)?
Lion_Crazz I see that you have left 8500 plus replys so I understand you opinion is valued but I have followed this thread from the beginning and read as this poor girl has gotten a ton of different and conflicting advice. Some of it from you.
I got it that you believe Hypo is the only way to treat ick, but I think you are misleading her if you state that this is the only effective treatment. Hypo is no better at curing ick than copper, SP or any of the other treatments. If one thing is agreed upon the water quality is the key. Regular water changes following the parasites life cycle is good a treatment and any of the one suggested here in this thread.
"I don't think this is a very good idea at all. If this is ich, hypo is the only way you are going to get rid of it permanently."
Now that is misleading, you will never get rid of the ick it needs to be managed by water changes and water quality. She is showing nitrates 80 ppm, do you think the fish are a little stressed?
"but you are not going to get rid of ich if you allow it to continue to reproduce. Your biggest concern right now is to get your water in check"
Hence the water changes and vacuuming the substrate. On this one I am with you replace the CC and you need a whole lot more live rock than 25 pds for a 72 gal tank. More like a 100 pds that will also keep the nitrates down.
"Bringing up your salinity will only give the ich strength."
Water Changes will cut the number of ick and improve the water quality.
"I would be doing water changes in this tank on a regular basis to keep the nitrates down."
This is probably how the ick got the foot hold in the first place. I agree water changes.
Look I am not trying to causing an up roar but this has been going for around five weeks and she hasn't had success. So she either doesn't have the tools to get the salt levels right or it isn't working. So bringing the salt levels up and putting the live rock back and getting the water quality back in order doesn't seem like any worse of an idea then what has already proceeded.
Just the action of doing something doesn't fix it.