List of fish/inverts that hobbiests should avoid

lion_crazz

Active Member
Originally Posted by JBAIR
What type of Angelfish should I avoid and which are easy to keep.
Dwarf or large angel species?
 

joshradio

Member
dwarf... If you have the LR and algae and one only... I personally think they're easy! My anthias are more aggressive than the CBA, but yes, as in all species, there are some I guess... :thinking:
 

apolyom

Member
i have been wondering what exactly does reef safe and not reef safe fish mean? also i noticed that some fish dont have reef safe but they have coral safe and/or invertebre safe. this has confused me so if someone could clear this up it would greatly be appreciated.
 

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by apolyom
i have been wondering what exactly does reef safe and not reef safe fish mean? also i noticed that some fish dont have reef safe but they have coral safe and/or invertebre safe. this has confused me so if someone could clear this up it would greatly be appreciated.
The general "reef safe" means that the fish does not bother/eat corals, anenomes, inverts ect. "invert safe" refers to them not bothering your inverts such as shrimp, crabs, stars...etc. "Coral safe" refers to them not bothering corals, but may eat inverts. Each refers to the diet of the fish in question. Many fish naturally have these things in their diet in the ocean and are therefore likely to prey upon it in the aquarium.
 

rykna

Active Member
Originally Posted by lion_crazz
Yes, I forgot about the flame scallops. I am adding that now. The flower pot is what I listed as a gonipora.
I have 2 gonaporas.....I have read that they do well for several mths and then just keel over dead.....I have both the daisy and the flower pot fo 5 mths now. I have a 90 gallon tank. I do not use RO water, just my home brew from the tap. I do not use a skimmer. I have a ehiem canister, a wave 2k and 2 aquaclear 110powerfilters. My gonas have gotten bigger, and many have commented that it might be the over abundance of nutrients in my tank that may be the reason that they are doing so well. The tank will be 2 years old in feburary. thoughts? I feed them DT
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
Wow, I can't believe I forgot about lookdowns on the list. They absolutely need to be on there.
Rykna, goniopora usually do extremely well for about 7 or 8 months and then all of a sudden begin to take a turn for the worst.
 

uberlink

Active Member
If it hasn't been added, I'd throw in Chili Corals. I've had one for some months, but despite everything I have tried (in terms of placement and nutrition), it does not seem well. The more I read, the more I conclude that they really are not appropriate to our aquariums. They seem to require a somewhat constant stream of almost microscopic food, which few of us can provide without harming the rest of the balance in our systems. Outside a pretty specialized setup with low light and (for lack of a better term) 'dirty' water, I'd suggest avoiding these.
 

rykna

Active Member
Any clues why???? I was aware of they're fragile status, and being the rebel I am I bought them specifically to study and learn. I have a 90 gallon reef tank, 100 lbs LR, 2 inch sand bed. I have the outer orbit MH light combo with actinic and lunar light. it totals 560 watts. I switched to the wave 2k 6 months ago for water movement, i have a canister eheim filter, and 2 aqua clear 110 power filters. I haven't used RO or store bought water in over a year. The tank will be 2 years old in febuary. I mix my own tank water from tap water.
In the ocean nutrients are abundant. Mother nature has a large menu to fill. I know our own tanks are infinantly smaller contained systems and maintaining the balance is hard enough, but the ocean is a contained system too. So why are we instructed to remove every last shred of minerals and nutrients (i.e RO water) and then spend more more on additives like calcium and other needed minerals and nutrients.
Since organisms, like gonaporas, are many filter feeders that makes it extremely hard to take in all the nutrition you need to be healthy and survive especially in a home aquarium where we are instructed to let filter feeds fend for themselves. That addvice is a deffinate road to starvation for the filter feeders IMO.
So far I have feed my 2 gonapora every other day, sometimes daylily. I feed them mainly DT algae, but I vary it with other micro foods like phytoplankton and zooplankton. Both favor the DT.
October is the beggining of the 5th month I have had the pleasure of enjoying these beautiful critters. The daisy gonipora is being hosted by my 2 false percs and is positioned right at mid(half way to top) the purple flower pot gonipora didn't seem to like so much light, after a bout a week of fussing right after I got it, it seemed to prefer the sand bed, and that is where it has been. December will be the month of reconing. :happyfish
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
Originally Posted by Beth
Lion-Crazz, a very good topic. I'm going to link it in the Archieves.

Thank you, Beth.
:happyfish
 

rykna

Active Member
Originally Posted by Beth
Lion-Crazz, a very good topic. I'm going to link it in the Archieves.

Beth can you give me any insight on the gonapora? :thinking:
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
Originally Posted by Rykna
Any clues why???? I was aware of they're fragile status, and being the rebel I am I bought them specifically to study and learn. I have a 90 gallon reef tank, 100 lbs LR, 2 inch sand bed. I have the outer orbit MH light combo with actinic and lunar light. it totals 560 watts. I switched to the wave 2k 6 months ago for water movement, i have a canister eheim filter, and 2 aqua clear 110 power filters. I haven't used RO or store bought water in over a year. The tank will be 2 years old in febuary. I mix my own tank water from tap water.
In the ocean nutrients are abundant. Mother nature has a large menu to fill. I know our own tanks are infinantly smaller contained systems and maintaining the balance is hard enough, but the ocean is a contained system too. So why are we instructed to remove every last shred of minerals and nutrients (i.e RO water) and then spend more more on additives like calcium and other needed minerals and nutrients.
Since organisms, like gonaporas, are many filter feeders that makes it extremely hard to take in all the nutrition you need to be healthy and survive especially in a home aquarium where we are instructed to let filter feeds fend for themselves. That addvice is a deffinate road to starvation for the filter feeders IMO.
So far I have feed my 2 gonapora every other day, sometimes daylily. I feed them mainly DT algae, but I vary it with other micro foods like phytoplankton and zooplankton. Both favor the DT.
October is the beggining of the 5th month I have had the pleasure of enjoying these beautiful critters. The daisy gonipora is being hosted by my 2 false percs and is positioned right at mid(half way to top) the purple flower pot gonipora didn't seem to like so much light, after a bout a week of fussing right after I got it, it seemed to prefer the sand bed, and that is where it has been. December will be the month of reconing. :happyfish

See, RO/DI water takes a lot of things out of the water that you do not want in there. It takes copper out of the water, metals, lead, things of that nature. That stuff is not found in high abundance in the ocean, like it is in tap water.
In all of my years in this hobby, I have only known ONE person to be able to keep goniopora. She is a close friend of mine. She has had her goni's (two of them) for three years now. She feeds them every single day and makes sure they get different kinds of food. She also has them very close to her power compact lights.
 

rykna

Active Member
interesting. What size is her tank? Does she still have them? What type of water does she use? :thinking:
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
She uses RO water, and they are in her 46 gallon bowfront. They moved a year and a half ago from her 72 gallon bowfront that cracked.
 

rykna

Active Member
Neat!!!! you don't hapen to rember the variety of food she feed them do you? Currently I use dt,phyto, and zoo plankton. The only info I could get from lfs was you know they're dieing if the tentacles start drooping.......sigh. If you have any more info on them I'd love to hear it. Here's a pic of the to I have a daisy and a flowerpot

 

ophiura

Active Member
Originally Posted by Rykna
In the ocean nutrients are abundant. Mother nature has a large menu to fill. I know our own tanks are infinantly smaller contained systems and maintaining the balance is hard enough, but the ocean is a contained system too. So why are we instructed to remove every last shred of minerals and nutrients (i.e RO water) and then spend more more on additives like calcium and other needed minerals and nutrients.
In temperate regions, yes, nutrients are abundant (and so are the planktonic foodchains that use them). THis gives the water the classic greenish brown tinge. But in the tropics, the water column is quite devoid of a great deal of nutrients...there is very very high recycling of nutrients within the reef community itself, but relatively less in the water column. The lack of suspended material in the water means that light is not reflected/scattered off particles, and the water is clear and blue.
Our tanks are orders of magnitude higher in nutrients and minerals than natural sea water - even just based on the salt mix itself. THis makes for an exceedingly unnatural environment for many animals and may prove fatal, in and of itself, for many animals (seastars especially).
People in general do not use tap water because often it contains already high levels of silicates, phosphates and heavy metals which are problems (sometimes fatal problems) in tanks. It is better to start with the "blank slate" of RO/DI at least for these reasons in many cases...some have fine tap water so why bother. But overall, there is little to be gained, IMO, from using tap water if synthetic salt is added because these already add minerals far in excess of natural levels for most compounds. THis is why most do not really need to add other additives, apart from alk/calcium which is naturally used in a tank system. Much of the other additives are little more than good marketing.
One of the major problems is that we try and combine creatures from different environments (even different reef zones) - and different nutrient availability - in one tank. We often keep the water "too clean" for certain filter feeders in some tanks, or too "dirty" for SPS in other tanks. Combine these animals tends to mean that ultimately some will not do well.
 

sharkboy13

Active Member
something to add to the list garden eels? need a DSB of 8in or larger and need a flow that goes over the sand in just a certain manner so they will eat, i think....
 
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