Squidd.......Teach me.....DYI:Plumbing 101 on a SW Tank
- Thread starter leona
- Start date
leona
Member
Another question about lighting.
If I get the dual 250 MH w/2 actinic lights does it matter if it's 96 or 110's? Will I need 3 Ballasts or 4. I'm thinking 3 correct. Then depending on the lighting for the fuge and what ever ballast that will need.
Side Note: The 2cd cabinet in from the right will be left open (meaning NO wall dividing sump and pumps). The rest of the cabinets will have walls. But I'm sure you figured that out)
Leona
If I get the dual 250 MH w/2 actinic lights does it matter if it's 96 or 110's? Will I need 3 Ballasts or 4. I'm thinking 3 correct. Then depending on the lighting for the fuge and what ever ballast that will need.
Side Note: The 2cd cabinet in from the right will be left open (meaning NO wall dividing sump and pumps). The rest of the cabinets will have walls. But I'm sure you figured that out)
Leona
dskidmore
Active Member
Originally posted by Leona
Scratch those ideas..............
I made a NEW one that I think You will like. ...Tell me what you think?
I like it. I would have one concern, top access to the tank. If the canopy goes across the cabinet too, it gives a nice look, but will make it heavier. If there's clearance space to the right, you might be able to put some rollers on top of the cabinet, and tracks inside the hood so you can just roll it to the right when you want it out of the way. Otherwise, maybe a pully system to lift it up?
leona
Member
No need for either. Let's see if I can explain this right.
The canopy will NOT be longer then the tank. It will look like a regular canopy the far right side of the canopy will Not be a canopy just the same look as the canopy and will Not be able to be lifted. The Canopy top will not be put on until last. It will open kinda like this picture that I'm attaching.
Leona
The canopy will NOT be longer then the tank. It will look like a regular canopy the far right side of the canopy will Not be a canopy just the same look as the canopy and will Not be able to be lifted. The Canopy top will not be put on until last. It will open kinda like this picture that I'm attaching.
Leona
leona
Member
Originally posted by Leona
next picture
My only concern on the canopy that was brought to my attention is the way the canopy opens up and stays up when it's completly open. I'm thinking of trying to find a hing that will allow the first part of the canopy to fold over onto the second half (light part) to be able to hold the canopy up more easily and less chance of falling on me.
Anyone any ideas?
squidd
Active Member
Originally posted by Leona
Ok Squidd,
were did we leave off?
Also, I was told to ask you about adding a "manifold for your return pump " what is this and what does it do?
and about the "Mixing Eductors"? What are these and what do they do?
Leona
Manifold ... Basicly a large diameter tube connected and starting "near" the output of the pump from which carries a large "volume" of water and from there is "split" to several "outlets"...
"Visually" it's like a 2" supply pipe with a number of 1" outlet pipes coming off it..
Compared to say a 1" pipe with a "T" ...split to two 1" pipes which split to two more 1" pipes...
The same 4 outlets from the manifold will put out twice as much (if not more) than the 4 outlets that were "T"d off the two lines that were "T'd off the pump...
Get it...??
squidd
Active Member
You look confused...
Here is a "visual" to show the difference....
Flow rates are for "example" only, but your results will be similar
Both pumps put out 2000 gph at "outlet"..
Manifold system maintains that and then "spreads" that through 4 outlets 2000 gph to tank...:yes:
(there would be "some" head loss as well more from sump...less from C/L)
Splitting or "T" ing the pipe looses flow at each "T" and junction, with only 800 making it to the tank...:nope:
Here is a "visual" to show the difference....
Flow rates are for "example" only, but your results will be similar
Both pumps put out 2000 gph at "outlet"..
Manifold system maintains that and then "spreads" that through 4 outlets 2000 gph to tank...:yes:
(there would be "some" head loss as well more from sump...less from C/L)
Splitting or "T" ing the pipe looses flow at each "T" and junction, with only 800 making it to the tank...:nope:
dskidmore
Active Member
Originally posted by Leona
My only concern on the canopy that was brought to my attention is the way the canopy opens up and stays up when it's completly open. I'm thinking of trying to find a hing that will allow the first part of the canopy to fold over onto the second half (light part) to be able to hold the canopy up more easily and less chance of falling on me.
Anyone any ideas?
Browse the Hardware store, you should be able to find some assemblies with either springs or thumb nuts that can hold the hood in the open position. The ones with springs may require a bit of calculation, but will be easier to use once installed.
squidd
Active Member
Originally posted by Leona
Squidd: :yes: I like that. But I have another question. WERE does it go in the tank? Or It doesn't?
Should I add this to the mix. Sounds like I should better flow.
This is how we'll run the C/L "system" for now...
(Later we'll/you'll replumb for the O/M diverter)
External pump (not in tank or "submerged" ) we"ll place it off to side in side cabinet ....
Kind of where you have the "ballast" now ..left of tank at tank bottom level...
I visualize the system looking "somethng" like this...
Thoughts...??
squidd
Active Member
Facing "back" would be the shortest route for the plumbing.. as drawn, but set "behind" the tank would be better...
A couple elbows more than "optimal" will be neccessary, but we can work with what you have...
Again..if you make the right side cabinet say 30" deep...it would hide the plumbing from the back/right and allow the pump to sit more "in-line" with the outlets on the back of the tank...:thinking:
Then a simple 5" removable board/divider on the left/back/behind tank compleates the "look" and hides all the plumbing....:yes:
A couple elbows more than "optimal" will be neccessary, but we can work with what you have...
Again..if you make the right side cabinet say 30" deep...it would hide the plumbing from the back/right and allow the pump to sit more "in-line" with the outlets on the back of the tank...:thinking:
Then a simple 5" removable board/divider on the left/back/behind tank compleates the "look" and hides all the plumbing....:yes:
leona
Member
Originally posted by Leona
Sorry forgot to mention that the outside measurments of the stand will be.
91"Lx25"Wx71"H
Stand (The tank will sit on and under will fit sump/fuge)
51"x25"x36"
Lower Cabinets will be 20"x25"x36"
Higher Cabinets will be 20"x25"x25"
Canopy will be 91"x25"x10"
91"Lx25"Wx71"H
Stand (The tank will sit on and under will fit sump/fuge)
51"Lx25"Wx36"H
Lower Cabinets will be 20"Lx25"Wx36"H
Higher Cabinets will be 20"Lx25"Wx25"H
Canopy will be 91"Lx25"Wx10"H
Were is the 30" deep?