Squidd.......Teach me.....DYI:Plumbing 101 on a SW Tank

acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member

Originally posted by Squidd
That will work "IF" you have ATO (automatic top off) to keep RP chamber level steady...
That's the only chamber "evaporation losses" will show up in...Could be as much as 2-3 gallons a day (depending on lighting/fans/humidity/etc...)
If the level goes too low the pump cavitates and can burn out...
Why not figure in a float valve to control the water evaporation level???
 
evilbob22

evilbob22

Member

Originally posted by acrylic51
Why not figure in a float valve to control the water evaporation level???
I had already thought about doing an ATO but didn't even know how they worked. After I got Squidd's reply, I did some searching... My float valve has been shipped and should be here any day! :D
 
evilbob22

evilbob22

Member
Sorry Leona... we are talking about an automatic water top off, and using a "float switch" to control it. The float switch is a piece of plastic that floats. When it is underwater is pulls up, and when it is above water is pulls down. Basically, when the water level in the sump or fuge gets low, the switch trips and turns on a pump to replace the water.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
The plastic float valves don't actually drip a pump or turn a pump on to fill the evaporation chamber... If you want something to turn a pump on once the level falls you would be looking at an electronic switch(valve).... A float valve when in the up position doesn't allow water to flow through the hole i the valve... When it's down it allows the hole to open and allow the water to flow through... That is why they are nice on RO units that are equipped with a ASV so it reduces back pressure... If you leave a pump hooked and running to it I think you might have a problem with backpressure and possibly rupture the line????
 
evilbob22

evilbob22

Member
Whoops... you did say float VALVE didn't you... I had float SWITCH on the brain since I just ordered one. My RO/DI unit is too far away from the tank, I have to use a rubbermaid resevoir. The switch makes more sense in my situation to kill/start the power head in the resevoir.
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Now..looking at the C/L system, we go back to the original "Goals" set for the tank...
Which obviously changed and adapted with Leonas tank as we went from the 55 to the 90 to the 120...:rolleyes:
So before we begin let's reiterate the Goal Flow for the tank and the split between sump return and C/L system (needed to size pump properly)...
Leona...are we still at 30X turnover for the "tank"...?? 120 X 30 = 3600 gph
We're set to get ~ 1200 or so from the sump return, so we're looking at 2400gph from the closed loop...???
The second area we want to look at "Ahead of Time"... Is the pump/plumbing "location"...
Couple "options" here (with pros and cons)... so let's take a look at a couple...
First "option" would be behind the tank on the edge of the stand...that would give the least amount of head pressure for the pump to work against, (but we can "size" the pump to work in other locations as well) ...
But it takes up a bit of "room" behind the tank and would cause the tank and stand to be placed "several" inches out from the wall for pump/plumbing clearance...You will already have the tank 3"-4" from the wall for the back wall drilled outlets...
Can you live with the tank say...8"-9" out from the wall...??
Here's a pic I did for someone else's OTT C/L system, but it gives a "feel" for the pump and plumbing "space" needed, even for a drilled system...
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
The next option would be to place it under the tank in the stand...
But of course "somebody" :rolleyes: built their sump/fuge so big it takes up all the floor space under the stand.....:D
Soooo...we start looking at "strategic" locations...
May take some measuring and "planning" but there should be room "over" the fuge area (not touching the lights) and under the "top" of the stand...
Add a shelf for the pump and access through the "side door" Michael is putting in the stand...
"Kinda" like this....
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Or "through the wall" (back to back) with the tank...
Or on a stand/box/floor "next to" the tank...
But not "over/above" the tank...It "could" be done but will be very difficult to "prime" and get running...and may cause problems in "power out" restarts...
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
OK...
"Someone" cutting class and playing hooky....

"Someone" is going to end up on the "detention" list..
Assignements need to be turned in on time...
Leona..you out there..???
 
leona

leona

Member
I'm sorry the dog ate my homework....

I havn't been getting emails telling me there's been a response on this thread sorry. Give me a little bit and I will read this and answer all questions to the best of my knowledge.
P.S. I can't stay after school I have to babysit.....
 
leona

leona

Member

Originally posted by Squidd
Now..looking at the C/L system, we go back to the original "Goals" set for the tank...
Which obviously changed and adapted with Leonas tank as we went from the 55 to the 90 to the 120...:rolleyes:
So before we begin let's reiterate the Goal Flow for the tank and the split between sump return and C/L system (needed to size pump properly)...
Leona...are we still at 30X turnover for the "tank"...?? 120 X 30 = 3600 gph >:yes: <
We're set to get ~ 1200 or so from the sump return, so we're looking at 2400gph from the closed loop...???>:yes: <
The second area we want to look at "Ahead of Time"... Is the pump/plumbing "location"...
Couple "options" here (with pros and cons)... so let's take a look at a couple...
First "option" would be behind the tank on the edge of the stand...that would give the least amount of head pressure for the pump to work against, (but we can "size" the pump to work in other locations as well) ...
But it takes up a bit of "room" behind the tank and would cause the tank and stand to be placed "several" inches out from the wall for pump/plumbing clearance...You will already have the tank 3"-4" from the wall for the back wall drilled outlets...
Can you live with the tank say...8"-9" out from the wall...??NOT REALLY
Here's a pic I did for someone else's OTT C/L system, but it gives a "feel" for the pump and plumbing "space" needed, even for a drilled system...
 
leona

leona

Member

Originally posted by Squidd
Or "through the wall" (back to back) with the tank...
Or on a stand/box/floor "next to" the tank...
But not "over/above" the tank...It "could" be done but will be very difficult to "prime" and get running...and may cause problems in "power out" restarts...
How big of a pump? What size layout would you need?
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
You'll probably need 4" for the bulkhead and "elbows" out the back of the tank...maybe 5"...
Pump will do the 2400 gph we're looking for ..
You mean "inches"...??
External pump about 12" long and 5"-6" wide x 5"6" tall plus pipes..
 
leona

leona

Member

Originally posted by Squidd
The next option would be to place it under the tank in the stand...
But of course "somebody" :rolleyes: built their sump/fuge so big it takes up all the floor space under the stand.....:D
Soooo...we start looking at "strategic" locations...
May take some measuring and "planning" but there should be room "over" the fuge area (not touching the lights) and under the "top" of the stand...
Add a shelf for the pump and access through the "side door" Michael is putting in the stand...
"Kinda" like this....
Let's go with this idea. Also someone mentioned to me that I might be able to bracket it up inside the stand somehow. What do you think or have you see this?
Leona
 
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