Squidd.......Teach me.....DYI:Plumbing 101 on a SW Tank

leona

Member

Originally posted by Leona
505.00 and no I didn't go with it because of the extra $$$

My bad.......495.00
 

leona

Member

Originally posted by Masala4080
i think he means return pump chamber.

Were is that in the picture? Don't laugh I'm still learning......:help:
 

masala4080

Member
dont worry. Im in the exact same spot your in. He is helping me layout my fuge/sump as well in another thread. Dont worry about it. Im not sure where the chamber is though.
 

coryherb

Member
the chamber between a and b. That is the chamber you put the return pump in..assuming you are going to use a submersible. I am learning this stuff too :).
 

squidd

Active Member
I'm trying to teach you guy's my "secrete" code...:D
R.P = return pump
Of/S = Overflow/Skimmer
S/F = Sump/Fuge
C/L = Closed Loop
etc.. = Etcetera
I was kinda hoping I wouldn't have to "spell it all out"...
 

squidd

Active Member
OK ..Now we are going to start thinking "out side the box" so to speak an look into perpendicular baffling...
Baffle D and E seperate the return pump chamber into "settling area" baffles and return pump chamber...
Water flows from skimmer chamber to 7"X 9" settling chamber..
Water will also flow from "Fuge" area to settling chamber...
There it will go "over" baffle D and "under" baffle E...to get to return pump...
Spaced "wide" (3") and with a "short drop" from skimmer to settling area turbulance will be "minimal" so I believe only two baffles are neccessary....
The "drop" from fuge to settling will be longer but flow is slower so we're still OK there...
 

squidd

Active Member
Side view showing skimmer to settling chamber drop (1") and Fuge to settling chamber drop (5")...
 

squidd

Active Member
You can see we "gained" a little backwash area...
We could raise the skimmer overflow/settling volume (B and D) so that the drop from fuge to settling area is less...
But we need to "concider" the height of skimmer (and "shelf") and the room under the stand...
We don't want to make this too tall...
What is the overall height of the skimmer..??
What is the overall height we have to work with under the stand..???
 

leona

Member

Originally posted by Squidd
What is the overall height of the skimmer..??
What is the overall height we have to work with under the stand..???

The skimmers height is 21".
Overall height under the stand I'm not sure how to answer that. Because of lighting. But the stand is looking to be 36"H. We went to home depot yesterday and I "think" michael is going to use 2x4 and 2x6".
So if the stand is 36" in height and we use 2x4's. 4 from 36 is 32". So we should have 32" under the stand does that sound right?
 

squidd

Active Member
Sounds good to me...:D
21" skimmer on a about a 4" "shelf" = 25"...you have 32" so there should be some 7" of "hand room" over the skimmer..
I say we take One of those inches for the overflow/skimmer/settling area..raise those baffles to 15"(B) and 14"(D) respectively...then there only a 3" drop from the fuge...
Lighting wont be a problem because it's over the fuge area and not the skimmer...
(Don't put lghts over the sump/pump/skimmer/overflow areas..you do NOT want algea to grow there...)
 

leona

Member
WE are on page 10 yahooooooo!!
Squidd real quick question OT. But still kinda on subject.
We went to home depot yesterday. They have a Ridgid submersible pump michael asked me why can't we use this. I said because it's prob not made for saltwater am I right? Wrong?

[hr]
Features
8’ Power cord
Bottom suction design removes water down to 1/8" of surface
Removes up to 2000 GPH
Includes 3/4" gargen hose adapter
Oil-less high efficiency PSC motor
Specifications
Gallons per Hour -- 10’:: 1400 GPH
Discharge Size:: 3/4" and 1-1/4"
Pump Weight:: 8 lbs.
Pump Width:: 7"
Pump Height:: 10
78.00.
 

leona

Member

Originally posted by Squidd
Sounds good to me...:D
21" skimmer on a about a 4" "shelf" = 25"...you have 32" so there should be some 7" of "hand room" over the skimmer..
I say we take One of those inches for the overflow/skimmer/settling area..raise those baffles to 15"(B) and 14"(D) respectively...then there only a 3" drop from the fuge...
Lighting wont be a problem because it's over the fuge area and not the skimmer...
(Don't put lghts over the sump/pump/skimmer/overflow areas..you do NOT want algea to grow there...)

good thing you told me I was thinking of it.........
 

squidd

Active Member
Never mind....
I have my CP set for 40 per page...
No wonder you were worried about hitting page 11...:D
I suppose all the "other" quotes I used ("check page 4"...check page 8 and 9" ) are confusing people all over the board....:thinking:
 

squidd

Active Member
I said because it's prob not made for saltwater am I right?
Most likely....
Probably has metal parts (screws/shaft/"feet") that will rust and corrode in salt water...
 

coryherb

Member

Originally posted by Squidd
Never mind....
I have my CP set for 40 per page...
No wonder you were worried about hitting page 11...:D
I suppose all the "other" quotes I used ("check page 4"...check page 8 and 9" ) are confusing people all over the board....:thinking:


LOL...been wondering about that.
 

squidd

Active Member

So are you saying squidd that I won't have my plans until page 11?

Originally posted by Squidd
Here we are...:D
I'll try to clean them up and get them posted tonight (meetings again), but it'lll be late..


THIS is what "I" have on the TOP of "MY" page 11....
Right where I "said" it would be...

:hilarious
 

squidd

Active Member
OK so that's pretty much the "layout" of the S/F...
Any questions on flow or layout or levels or whatever on the "glass work" ...??
(We'll get to pumps and plumbing next..)
I'll need the "exact" measurements of the "inside" of the 75 to do up a cutlist on the baffling (compleate with fractions and assembly order).....
Heres a "Top View" flow layout...
 

leona

Member
Just Peachy.........

So then to you squidd you really think we are SLOW learners.
I will check on those measurments and get back to you on that tomorrow.
Michael asked if we could use plexi glass for the baffles?Or should we stick to glass? How thick should the glass be he says about 1/4" thick. Is that about right?
 
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